TN: My week in wine

[Florida Jim]

1999 Aldo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba:

Although barbera will never me my favorite wine grape, this was really complex and nuanced, deeply fruited, with solid acidity and a long, slightly drying finish. A hell of a wine and terrific along side pasta with mushrooms. Brought in by Vias Imports and about $20; I’d buy it again at that price (and I never thought I’d say that).

2005 Kangarilla Road, Viognier:

14% alcohol, McLaren Vale fruit; apricot and apricot pit on the nose with hints of peach and spice; a bit disjointed on the palate with fresh flavors that follow the nose, good acidity and add an odd stony tang that in limited amounts is good counter-point and at higher levels is off-putting – and I seem to get a variation on how much of it is present in any one sip; medium length finish. I know near nothing about viognier except that when I look at most bottles for sale I see alcohols of 14% to 17% as a rule; and that puts me off. And this bottle probably isn’t going to bring me into the fold. Imported by Click Imports and about $16; I won’t buy it again.

Anybody with suggestions for a viognier with less alcohol and a more integrated and mineral driven approach?

2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba:

So I like barbera better than I thought; this is even more nuanced, more old vine intense and more deeply fruited than the Conterno above; a wine that takes time to open in the glass and has years ahead of it in the cellar. Fantastic with lentil stew. Imported by Locascio/Winebow and about $23; I’ll buy more this weekend.

2002 Allemand, Cornas:

Smokey, stony black fruit with accents of red fruit on the nose; the palate follows the nose with a satin texture and a tangy, supple mouth feel that bring the flavors alive, moderate concentration, hidden structure and a medium length, very clean finish. So there you have my tasting note and it is not even close to conveying what I want to say about this wine and this producer.

First, there are a handful (if that) of producers in the world who make fine wine every vintage. Allemand is one of them. 2002 was an extremely difficult vintage in the Rhône; brutal rains, devastating weather. And yet, here is the essence of Cornas.

Second, when I drink this I am filled with the desire to make wine like this. I help folks who make wine in CA; some of them make syrah. But nobody makes wine that’s even close. It is a very long time between glasses that inspire as does this lovely wine.

And even that is not enough.

Imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; stupidly under priced.

Best, Jim

[wkl]

"Anybody with suggestions for a viognier with less alcohol and a more integrated and mineral driven approach?"

jim, try finding the less expensive georges vernay coindreiu. his stuff can be pretty expensive, but iirc, vernay produces a basic viognier that is priced in the teens. it is definetly mineral driven and moderate alcohol. imported by sussex or fleet street in my mid atlantic market. can't remember if this bottling carries the coindrieu aoc or not.

so, will bruno's barbera be stealing space from his nebbiolo in your celler?

[artisanbaker]

Mr. Cowan,

Wish I could help with the Viognier question, but I wanted to thank you for the heads up on this wine. Seems like the TNs are getting more and more enthusiatic since the first. It's still available at $35 for the record. With mailer season around the corner I don't expect to bite but next time I'm in La Drome (26) I'll have to arrange for an "exploration..."

Rob Alexander

PS. Hope to meet you sometime; maybe your next "intern"-ship at chez Bevan or in the mountains of Pisgah...

[Florida Jim]

PS. Hope to meet you sometime; maybe your next "intern"-ship at chez Bevan or in the mountains of Pisgah...

←

Rob,

I'll be at Russell's in the first week of March for about ten days and again in October for crush for about three weeks.

I'd be pleased to meet you, too.

Best, Jim