eG Foodblog: lovebenton0, Pam R, snowangel - North of the 30th paralle

[Kouign Aman]

When last I drank a slurpee in the US (it was, er, a while ago), they were icy, not foamy. I wonder when they changed, and why? Perhaps to keep costs down for those insanely oversized cups they started selling here?

Funny to see how everyone makes chicken stock differently. Stock is so forgiving. Has anyone any experience with cooked vs raw bones?

[suzilightning]

Other suggestions welcome and appreciated as I come up with my daily lists.  (Reminder, I am not an organized meal planner like Bruce, and often shop on a daily basis, or on a whim).

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what about a senegalese served warm?

ming tsai did a riff on chinese hot and sour soup with shrimps. i have the recipe somewhere if you are interested...

[snowangel]

Stay tuned for dinner. Sometimes one just has figured out the bread. Sometimes, being a mom is just so cool you can't stand it!

[Toliver]

....So this week, the column will contain two versions - the first using bones, the second a whole, mature chicken (soup fowl).... 

Any guesses on the amount of similar tasting stock I got out of each batch - or rather, think I got the same amount or different quantities?

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Pam,

You mentioned they were similar tasting. Did one version taste better than the other? What were the differences, if any?

[lovebenton0]

When last I drank a slurpee in the US (it was, er, a while ago), they were icy, not foamy. I wonder when they changed, and why? Perhaps to keep costs down for those insanely oversized cups they started selling here?

Funny to see how everyone makes chicken stock differently. Stock is so forgiving. Has anyone any experience with cooked vs raw bones?

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my last slurpee here was icy too, but that's been a while for me.

sometimes i make stock with cooked bones, like tonight because what i had was leftover turkey. turkey carcass is a favorite of mine to use anyway. but i also use raw bird, usually chicken. for beef stock, it's also what i have on hand. cooked if i have leftovers and raw if i can get bones. i find little difference in the quality of the stock. however, it is noticeable in the flavor whether the bones are cooked/roasted or not. i have made stock from beef ribs that were smoked and that was wonderful stuff.

stock tonight is roasted turkey wing... and bonus... most of a turkey thigh i thought was a wing in it's frozen state. so i removed big hunks of bird flesh from the thigh for adding to soup, putting all the bones, skin and schmucky stuff in the pot for stock. also an onion, a couple of carrots, about a tbsp of whole mixed peppercorns, bay leaves from my tree. and why not... i threw in an apple that was not crisp enough for me to munch. the apple seemed to be the right touch for the turkey bread soup with dried cranberries.

this pic is shortly before i cranked down the lid on the pressure cooker. pc is a fantastic tool for cooking some things. when i was living in the heat of tx summers it was a sweat and energy saver for making beans. creamiest beans ever, as far as i'm concerned. still my favorite way to make bean and pea soups. today the pc was a huge help because i just haven't felt up to standing up for long periods of time. what could have been a long process to make this soup, including the stock, is shortened to about two hours total time [after the turkey was thawed], from grabbing food out of the fridge until it's soup.

i've been living on herb tea all day. finally ate a piece of toast with a cup of tea and a bit of the last of my spiced peach butter after i started the stock. stock is smelling really good, i think. i have to get right next to the pot to smell anything.

another answer to your question, susan... what do we do with the chicken schmaltz... use it to saute onions, other vegs and the bird flesh before adding to soup. yum. i have some i've taken out of the freezer and will do that with the onion, carrots and turkey i add to the broth for tonight's soup.

[lovebenton0]

ming tsai did a riff on chinese hot and sour soup with shrimps.  i have the recipe somewhere if you are interested...

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well... i was going to do a shrimp with coconut cream, but now that my body is being so uncooperative i shouldn't eat creamy stuff. i'd love the hot and sour with shrimp recipe, if you have it handy.

[Pam R]

....So this week, the column will contain two versions - the first using bones, the second a whole, mature chicken (soup fowl).... 

Any guesses on the amount of similar tasting stock I got out of each batch - or rather, think I got the same amount or different quantities?

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Pam,

You mentioned they were similar tasting. Did one version taste better than the other? What were the differences, if any?

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Woops. I forgot to answer the question. Thanks for the reminder!

I have been firmly in the "why spend the money on the whole bird when the bones make a much better stock/soup camp" for a while now. So I was really interested in the question.

The soups were made almost exactly the same - with the exception of the whole bird, vs. the bones (approx. the same weight as the whole bird) and the cooking time. I didn't pay any attention to the cooking time at all. I assumed that one would need to reduce more than the other if the were going to taste the same (or very close to it).

So I kept tasting - and when I was satisfied with each of them I strained both and measured ... and they made exactly the same amount of great stock. (Give or take a few ounces.)

The difference, of course, is that the bones cost half of the soup chicken. So I stand by my original idea - if you're not going to use the meat, don't bother with it.

[snowangel]

ming tsai did a riff on chinese hot and sour soup with shrimps.  i have the recipe somewhere if you are interested...

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well... i was going to do a shrimp with coconut cream, but now that my body is being so uncooperative i shouldn't eat creamy stuff. i'd love the hot and sour with shrimp recipe, if you have it handy.

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Judith, there are four (at least) Hot and Sour Soups in RecipeGullet. Search in titles on Soup; two of them crry the first word Chinese, and two Hot.

Edited to add: Feel better, my friend!

[C. sapidus]

This is wonderful – I’m learning a lot. We rarely use a whole chicken, so stock is usually a byproduct of poaching chicken for Chinese appetizers (ma la chicken, chicken in red oil sauce, etc.). The only aromatics are a piece of bruised ginger and a couple of scallions. Mrs. Crab does make chicken stock from rotisserie chicken carcasses, though.

Shaya, Diana has requested Kao Soi, and I have a hankering for ba mi, so one of those will be on the menu this week (I think!).

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Susan – (if I’m not too late) Kao soi! Kao soi! (ba mi sounds good, too). Kao soi! Congrats on conquering sourdough, too. How did you get your starter?

This morning I had to stop at Safeway on my way into work - so I sat down for a couple of minutes before I left the house to write a grocery list (and a 'take home from work' list'):

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Pam – I like the look of your shopping list! The photo mélanges are really nice, too – probably greatly appreciated by those with a slow internet service.

Judith – I hope you feel very much better very soon.

Edited January 31, 2007 by C. sapidus (log)

[snowangel]

(if I’m not too late) Kao soi! Kao soi! (ba mi sounds good, too). Kao soi! Congrats on conquering sourdough, too. How did you get your starter?

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Bruce, while my photos upload, I'm going to grab a hunk of meat to thaw for Kao soi. My memories of this dish are VERY fond, so I need to see if I hve the right noodles in the freezer, or head to the Asian market tomorrow!

As I said up topic, if you don't own Bread Baker's Apprentice, get it, and soon. I did the starter as per Reinhart's instructions, but it took about a week longer than he said. I'm wondering if the starter (seed culture) wouldn't have gotten going sooner had it not been late fall, when the house was all closed up. And, I will itterate what I said earlier. Do Not Be Afraid of Bread.

Oh, Kao Soi. Since I got a mess of stuff cleaned up off my list, I'm thinking not Maesri curry paste, but hand pounded!

[snowangel]

Tonight was magical.

As an assignment, Peter had to combine math and reading (for his TD -- Talent and Development -- math thing. It's an advanced course that only a handful of kids in each grade participate in).

So, I figured cooking. And, since I hadn't planned anything but the bread that was doing the slow rise in the fridge, I put the young man to work. Part of this involved looking to see what we had. Digging throug the pantry (a story for tomorrow, BTW) was no mean feat.

But, Peter looked at what we had and consulted a cookbook which was a recent gift -- America's Test Kitchen. Now, while this is not a book I would have purchased, it is great to have when one has kids and they need instructions; I tend to wing it. Peter found two cans of clams, and a couple of bottles of clam juice. He also mananged to locate three potatoes and an onion, as well as the bacon ends (prominently displayed in the fridge). He honed his peeler and knife skills, and I was so delighted, that I didn't take very many pictures.

We opted for russets, since we like the way the perform when one takes the potato masher to them (roughly, mind you)

While he was getting this going, I cut the baguette I'd put in the fridge the night before (BTW, an empty foil box makes a wonderful couche):

The epi was sensational, and a real hit.

Nice and holey, and the overnight rise in the fridge really enhanced the flavour.

Peter likes his soup spooned on top of crackers.

I'd say the success of the meal might depend on the amount (or lack) of leftovers.

And, for dessert, a slice of the boule I also baked.

Like I said, a magical evening. The boy (gotta love my long-hair!) made dinner, pretty much on his own, with a couple of "mistakes" that turned out to not be mistakes.

And, Oh, The Bread.

Now, my question. How to best store this bread so that it has the same magical qualities it did tonight? That crispy, shattering crust. The tangy holey interior that is moist, but not wet?

Ah. Do Not Be Afraid of Making Bread. (shouting!)

[lovebenton0]

Tonight was magical.

I'd say the success of the meal might depend on the amount (or lack) of leftovers.

And, for dessert, a slice of the boule I also baked.

Like I said, a magical evening.  The boy (gotta love my long-hair!) made dinner, pretty much on his own, with a couple of "mistakes" that turned out to not be mistakes.

And, Oh, The Bread.

Now, my question.  How to best store this bread so that it has the same magical qualities it did tonight?  That crispy, shattering crust.  The tangy holey interior that is moist, but not wet?

Ah.  Do Not Be Afraid of Making Bread.  (shouting!)

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susan, what i do to keep crusty bread fresh is stash it in a paper bag... but... the trick i use that the crumb stays moist also is to cover just the cut end with plastic wrap or a small baggie, then stash in the bag. that should keep your crust crisp and light and the interior cool.

your evening looks and sounds delightful, mom.

and thanks, i will check out rg for the hot and sour shrimp soup. that may be a perfect rg recipe for me on our rg highlight night.

[maggiethecat]

Yes, shout, Susan! That bread is gorgeous, as are your son and your tea towels. In my experience bread that good is never really as good the next day, but I've found that a brown paper bag is the best protection.

Pam, I'm glad that you confirmed my stock suspicions: you don't have to buy a whole chicken to get great stock -- old poultry odds and sods do the job just as well.

Lovey: Take care of that cold -- I'm coming down with one myself.

[Pam R]

Susan - you put my bread to shame. But I will push on. I told somebody that I would attempt some bread this week, so I did. Not being a bread baker in any way, shape or form, I stuck with my new best-friend, the no-knead bread. I was hoping to get it baked for dinner - but that doesn't seem to work when I'm at work. So it made a nice dessert.

Started at about 6 PM yesterday, sat on the counter until 4:30 today:

(From left to right - just mixed dough, bubbly dough after 22 hours, dough turned out on floured surface ready for 'folding' and a plate with floured parchment ready for dough, dough on plate getting ready to rest for a couple of hours, dough and parchment dumped into hot pot, baked bread - and finally, somewhat cooled and sliced fresh bread)

[snowangel]

Maggie, my problem is that I like the odd bits, so there are never very many in the bag o odd stuff in the freezer.

But, moment of maternal pride. Yes, the 11-year old boy (the long hair) actually wanted a piece of toast, and only ate The Crust! Be still my beating heart!

Is there anything greater than knowing that you have raised a crust lover, other than loving bread and butter? (and Bacon

[snowangel]

So, Pam, we've seen your bread. How does it taste? That's the thing that got me about these loves today. Unbelievable. The kids actually wanted toast or bread and butter for dessert! I must mark today on the calendar as my Bread Epiphany.

[Pam R]

I like the bread. A lot. But I didn't let it cool enough. It has a great crust - really chewy.

[Abra]

Judith, I'm so glad you mentioned the pressure cooker. I've been making lots of stocks in the PC, since I don't give a rat sandwich about clarity 85% of the time. When I do, I slow simmer, but otherwise the PC is a fantastic tool.

All the breads look so good!

I just saw a few turkey necks packaged up at the butcher, so I made a turkey stock in the PC. Tomorrow I think I'll morph it into a split pea and parsnip with turkey broth soup. That sounds good to me, albeit weird.

[Dejah]

There are the feet!  plus a bag with some gizzards and a neck that I found in the freezer (that's another story).  I also added a package of gizzards that fell on my foot when I opened the freezer door.

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Susan: Did you do anything with the chicken feet after making the stock? I would have sauteed some fermented black beans, garlic, ginger and Thai chilis in the wok, then toss in the now more than tender feet for a "dim sum" order of Golden Phoenix Claws!

[lovebenton0]

Judith, I'm so glad you mentioned the pressure cooker.  I've been making lots of stocks in the PC, since I don't give a rat sandwich about clarity 85% of the time.  When I do, I slow simmer, but otherwise the PC is a fantastic tool.

All the breads look so good!

I just saw a few turkey necks packaged up at the butcher, so I made a turkey stock in the PC.  Tomorrow I think I'll morph it into a split pea and parsnip with turkey broth soup.  That sounds good to me, albeit weird.

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that split pea soup sounds good to me, abra.

and yes, it's true, you do sacrifice clarity in the pc, but i must say that my dinner soup still looked appetizing to me. the turkey stock was much less clear than usual because i added the apple, but my oh my, this was a good experiment. the dried cranberries and rich, broth-sopped toast were just what this cold was needing.

[Pam R]

The bread was great, but on to the soup.

I went ahead with the slow-cooker borscht. I think I mentioned last night that I was going to pre-simmer the bones and meat for the borscht a little bit. I did that - skimming all of the scum off the liquid. Then I removed the shortribs and marrow bones - and reduced the liquid by half.

Chilled everything overnight; cut the ribs up and skimmed the hardened fat off of the stock. Last night I also peeled and prepped the vegetables - beets, carrots, celery and an onion. Everything went into the slow cooker before work this morning, along with a can of diced tomatoes, sugar, the juice of a lemon, a splash of vinegar and some kosher salt and pepper. Usually I would use sour salt, but I didn't have any at home - so lemon instead.

Now, the concerns about the liquid not evaporating and the soup being too watery were more than valid. Even after reducing the liquid last night, I still got home to a watery soup. So I took as much liquid out of the slow cooker as I could - poured it into a pot and simmered it, reducing it by half. Then I returned it to the crock pot.

Let me also point out that this is the lightest borscht I have ever made (pink, rather than a deep purple-red).

A few comments:

What is with my picture sizing? Sorry.

Look at those marrow bones. They were huge, and full of marrow. Delicious.

The soup was light in colour - I'm used to a really dark red/purple. But it was really good.

Cooking it in the slow cooker gave it a much meatier flavour than when I simmer it in a pot for a couple of hours.

How do you get more liquid in the finished product without sacrificing flavour? I mean, I like a soup with lots of chunky stuff in it - but this was a little short on liquid. Water wouldn't have worked. I make a vegetarian borscht with crushed tomatoes instead of diced - I wonder if that would have helped.

[Pam R]

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I don't see any clarity issues that I can see. It looks really good. I've made a duck soup with dried berries - it's an interesting flavor/texture to add to soups.

[Rebecca263]

Wow.

Susan, your bread(and the not-so-little little long-hair) looks amazing. With all of the bread that I have made in my life, I've never attempted a sourdough. I'm impressed! The crust just looks wonderful, chewy AND crispy, so satisfying. Kudos to you! Kudos to Mr.LongHair, too. The soup seems to have been a great success!

I just love having an empty pot at the end of a meal!

Pam, I have NEVER made borscht that looks as meaty and rich as yours! I can just imagine sucking the marrow from those bones, YUM! And, hey, you're not too shabby in the breadmaking department, yourself! I've perused that no knead thread a few times, but I so enjoy the kneading process, it's really why I made bread.

And, last, but certainly NOT least,

Judith. Your soup is the winner of the night, for me. Those cranberries appear to really set off the flavor of the broth and meat. That's MY kind of flavor profile! I do hope you feel better, quickly!

Thanks, you guys, for cooking my favorite things this week!

[Pan]

I'm really enjoying this soupy blog, and in keeping with the spirit (and because of the cold weather), I had some delicious soba soup that included fried eggplant and ground duck (can't remember the name of the soup) at Soba Koh a couple of blocks from me.

Judith, feel better!

[lucylou95816]

You guys also inspired me to make a pancetta, potato, cheese and corn chowder...with a splash of beer. Not too bad, next time, I'll add more beer, but I only had one left, and I was thirsty..... Keep up the good soup!