Ferran Adria in other chef's eyes

[Steve Klc]

Just came across another very good article on Ferran--which includes interviews with a few other chefs, including my friend Jose Andres, and also a nice selection of recipes. It is different in style and scope from the previous articles we've discussed here on eGullet over the past year--those in Esquire and Gourmet and Food Arts--and I feel this is worth reading.

I realize we already have more information on this site about Ferran and El Bulli than on any other online or print source except El Bulli's own magnificent website, but this article may help some of you holdouts to convert. A few excerpts: "Adria's mind is like a computer, absorbing and processing everything," Andres says. "He always carries a notebook and his expression is full of wonder, like a little kid, when he discovers something. He shares everything with other chefs — except the new dishes of the season."

And "One of the most important lessons I learned from Adria is to make sure you make the best product you can — whether it's a hot dog, hamburger, tortilla or haute cuisine," Andres notes. He demonstrates Adria's influence with his deconstruction of the traditional Spanish tortilla — the flat, potato-onion omelet — into one-part potato foam, one-part onion purée and one-part sabayon, layered in a sherry glass with a topping of deep-fried potato dice. Similarly, he elevates the classic but simple concept of a tomato and anchovy salad to the sublime, again deconstucting and reassembling its basic ingredients to achieve ethereal results. "This is a simple dish brought up to another level," Andres enthuses. "Tomatoes have the most amazing natural gelatin. [Plus] the sweetness and acidity of the tomato paired with the saltiness of the anchovy make it a perfect match for a Verdejo from Rueda."

And "What inspires me about Ferrán is his philosophy that the old ways should always be challenged, that we should look at everything from different angles," Andres muses. "The old-fashioned way is to protect the product's form and taste. He believes that we should change the form of the product but maintain its flavor or even make it more flavorful." So, while Andres' style at Jaleo is, he insists, "very classical" and "in development," he acknowledges his mentor with dishes like a deconstructed clam chowder.

Here's the link:

http://www.thewinenews.com/aprmay02/cuisine.html

Oh, in case anyone is interested, the glorious Oriol Balaguer pastry book has been translated into English and is now available from JB Prince. It's the closest anyone will come to El Bulli and Adria desserts in English until Alberto's plated dessert book in English is released in November.

[Jinmyo]

A very interesting article. Thanks, Steve.

I liked this quote:

Jordi Valles, chef de cuisine at Aria Restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Key Biscayne, Florida, worked at El Bulli for the 1998 season. Valles, 29, a Barcelona native, returns for a visit every year. "I think of El Bulli as a school for chefs. He opened my mind. I left saying that with cooking, anything is possible," he enthuses. Valles, who adapted some of El Bulli's techniques and organizational skills to his own kitchen, is quick to defend Adria when he is accused of playing with or manipulating food. "Adria is obsessed with the science and form of food, the way it can be presented in new, interesting ways," Valles explains. "Grapes, for example, can sell for one dollar for two pounds, but when turned into wine it can sell for $1,000 a bottle. You don't call that manipulation."

This kind of cuisine is as much about satiating hunger as wine is about a parched throat.

[Michael Laiskonis]

I agree. It seemed as though the the first wave of El Bulli coverage offered only reports of the chefs who had simply had a meal there, whereas here it is nice to see the perspective of a few who actually spent some time in the kitchen. I'm glad that Ken Oringer was inlcuded, as, I think, he is truly filtering the ideas he saw there through his own style, as opposed to merely co-opting some of the dishes. While I never tried the caramel-squab dish at Clio, the celery root mousseline and black truffle fondue (recipe featured in the article) is beautiful, and with that slight dusting of cacao powder, it may even approach... sublime!

A few open questions that I hope aren't too far off topic...

Apart from constructing the following season's menu, I've always been curious as to what all goes on at El Taller. I assumed that part of its function was to serve as a sort-of in house media production center (a la Trotter's Studio Kitchen). What else do they work on? Do they host other chefs to conceive new ideas? Do they stage classes or special events? Does a portion of the 'regular season' kitchen staff take part in activities there? The El Bulli website, as far as I can tell, offers mostly the philosophy behind it... I recall a Food Arts piece specifically on El Taller quite awhile back, but my memory of details is indeed hazy.

Does anyone know if the magazine, Spain Gourmetour still publishes? Apart from being, in essence, one long advertisement for Spanish food and travel, it did run some decent material, including a series of chef profiles; it was one of the first sources that turned me on to Adria, circa 1996-97. I cannot recall the specific organization that published the magazine or exactly how I appeared on (then abruptly disappeared from) their mailing list.

I've noticed, on a site related to Montagud Editores, some recipes and writing from Jordi Butron (Espai Sucre, the 'dessert-only' restaurant in Barcelona)...

Here's one

Here's another

Oh, and another

OK, one more

Nice stuff... Has anyone heard any rumblings of a book project in the works? That would be fun. They did a nice job with Frederic Bau's book, not to mention Oriol Balaguer's. ( There are also some recipes from Balaguer on the Apicius site, some in the book and some not. Here's an example.) If you browse the site you will also come upon some things from Frederic Robert (Pastry Chef at-large for Alain Ducasse, who, as you all must know by now, has produced a pastry companion to the Ducasse 'Grand Livre'). Enjoy.

Speaking of Balaguer, I picked up his book, as luck would have it, within a month of being published (in Spanish). Imagine many frustrating hours with the Spanish-English dictionary! Needless to say I was bummed when I learned of the French translation and now doubly bummed knowing that it is in English. Steve, do keep us all posted on the arrival of Alberto's new book!

[Michael Laiskonis]

Perhaps a taste of what is produced at El Taller?

http://www.tvc.es/cuines/bulli.htm

Clicking on the items to the left takes you to the recipe. Notice again the appearance of Balaguer, but neither Adria.

[Michael Laiskonis]

A must-have book for anyone interested in the current wave of Spanish cuisine:

Los Genios del Fuego

Quiénes son, cómo crean y qué cocinan 10 chefs de vanguardia

Written by Pau Arenós with photographs by Albert Bertran

Published in 1999 by Ediciones Peninsula: Barcelona.

Amazing! Profiles and some recipes from Joan Roca, Ferran Adria, Jean Louis Neichel, Carme Ruscalleda, Santi Santamaria, Jean Luc Figueras, Carles Caig, Miquel Sánchez Romera, Jordi Parramon, and Joan Piqué. I bought mine a year and a half ago at Librarie Gourmande. Beautiful.

[nightscotsman]

Los Genios del Fuego

Quiénes son, cómo crean y qué cocinan 10 chefs de vanguardia

Written by Pau Arenós with photographs by Albert Bertran

Published in 1999 by Ediciones Peninsula: Barcelona.

I assume this is in Spanish?

ningun espanol leido

[Steve Klc]

Michael--we've linked to that Food Arts Taller article before--it's scanned and on the el bulli media website. Jose wrote that piece. Is this it:

http://press.elbulli.com/scripts/fitxa.php...p?id_article=20

I also think Bux may have given you part of the answer as well, on another thread, when he talked about the "Fast Good" cuisine concepts and various other consulting projects of Ferran. You have to work that out somewhere. And from what I know of Jose--who thinks alot like Ferran thinks--they have more ideas in notebooks and in their heads than they know what to do with. Who wouldn't want a Taller of their own in which to play? I think it is more lab, retreat and a technical culinary playground.

And as far as your Balaguer efforts Michael--you're now in the position to translate Spanish pastry terms for the rest of us! Actually, I am as well. Right now I'm teaching myself Spanish pastry terms and phrases by reading the Spanish and English book versions side by side. (I know, but it's August.) Thank you for the new links as well.

On your point about a possible second wave of chefs re: Adria--I wonder if part of the issue is that the first wave of chefs were established, pre-eminent US chefs--Trotter, Keller and their travel mates--who couldn't/wouldn't be seen as learning or working in the Adria kitchen. Younger US chefs trying to climb the ladder--like the Ken Oringer generation-- wouldn't be hindered by career or reputation.

[Fat Guy]

I'm sure it has been mentioned before somewhere, but it never sunk in until I read this article that el bulli is Spanish for bulldog. As a bulldog owner and aficionado, I must ask anyone who has been there: Are there any dog statues or photos or Mack Truck hood ornaments or anything of that sort in evidence? Does Adria have a bulldog or a special fondness for bulldogs of which he has spoken? More importantly, can my bulldog get me a reservation?

[Bux]

Fat Guy, you know what the word for Bulldog is in French?

[Bux]

Bux may have given you part of the answer as well, on another thread, when he talked about the "Fast Good" cuisine concepts and various other consulting projects of Ferran.

That was in

NY Times Food Section thread in relationship to Robuchon's new counter restaurant as reported in the NY Times.

There is also a thread on the El Bulli hotel Hacienda Benazuza in Sanlúcar la Mayor. (Sevilla is probably the closest airport.) In that thread I started to mention Adria's relationship with NH Hotels. The "Fast-Good" is his second project for them. The first is his "NHUBE" concept for hotel dining. Even after reading an article on it, I'm not so sure I can describe what he's doing beyond rethinking what a hotel can offer its guests in the way of an environment in which getting a meal is just one function of the public space. If I can lay my hands on the brochure I have, I will post additional information on the Spain board. I'll have to check my sources but I understand Adria will also be involved in the new NH Alanda Hotel in Marbella. This appears to be a luxurious new resort hotel. Most of the information I have is from NH press releases, advertising and the in-house magazine distributed in NH Hotel rooms.

[Fat Guy]

Fat Guy, you know what the word for Bulldog is in French?

French Bulldog?

[thelastsupper]

Has anybody heard of Adria's recent ventures into the realms of "Espesso" and "Bulliolor" ? . . . I have not seen heard anyone mention this side of the leader of the New Vanguard of Catalan cuisine.

[Steve Klc]

You could? Several chefs have been experimenting with spraying flavor--into mouths before a bite, into the air--seems Ferran has actually moved one of his ideas and a product forward. Googling turns up a translated release from Grocer's Review:

"New in Spain are El Bulliolor air fresheners said to alter or enhance food flavour. They are to be sprayed on the table while eating and are intended to alter the food flavour through the sense of smell. They have been created by Ferrán Adriá, the top Spanish head chef of El Bulli restaurant (Gerona, Spain). They are said to be very intense, but the smell disappears quickly so it does not influence the following dish. There are four variants: Bosc Humit, a humid forest scent to accompany mushrooms; Mar, a marine scent to accompany oysters; Taronja, an orange scent; and Taronja en Flor, an orange blossom scent to accompany pumpkins."

I have my doubts about it not influencing the following dish, but we'll have to wait and see.

Why don't you fill us in on espesso?

[Bux]

Fat Guy, you know what the word for Bulldog is in French?

French Bulldog?

If anything, Enlgish bulldog would be closer. Sorry, I missed your reply. It's bouledogue." I've always found that amusing. I've since come to learn that a dogue is not just any kind of bog, but a mastiff. Boule is a ball or bowl and apparently plays no part in the name of the breed.

[Fat Guy]

Except that it sounds like the English word "bull" and they were originally bred for bull baiting. So that makes sense. Also bulldogs (both regular a/k/a English, and French) are descended from mastiffs, much like the Dogue de Bordeaux (and also the bull mastiff, pug, and some others -- though there are debates among veterinary geneticists about the exact origins of all these breeds).

Also, I learned upon finally reading the article (which was informative) that El Bulli was in business before Adria became the chef. So I fear he has no affinity for bulldogs unless he later acquired one or was motivated to work at a restaurant named El Bulli by such a proclivity.

[Bux]

One wonders what the restaurant was like pre Adria and why he didn't rename the restaurant in his image.

[Robert Nesta Marley]

i've read plenty of the adria threads here.

at the risk of sounding like i'm promoting the restaurant my wine bar is affiliated with....the chef de cuisine at verbena, katsuya (katz), i forget his last name all the time, sorry....worked with jose andres at jaleo for several years before going to el builli for another two or so. i have to say that he's one of the most challenging, innovative culinary artists i know in new york--without his own kitchen.

when approached by someone he knows in the dining room (a fellow chef or someone who knows him or where he's been) he throws down, big time. he's got 2 or 3 co2 thingeys back there, foaming all over the place. popsicle city.

unfortunately, this is his last week at verbena. andres has asked him for a big favor in DC.

by the way, yes, spain gourmatour is still being published. and still in english.

(why is my spelling getting progressively worse????)

[Steve Klc]

Yes RSM, Kats is indeed coming back to DC, I have "heard" to help Jose open his newest restaurant Zaytinya--his take on Greek and Turkish cooking--on October 14th. It's quite nice of you to mention Kats's ability to "throw down." I had a meal once at his hands in Douglas Rodriguez's Pipa, when he was chef de cuisine there for a time, that he made very special. In addition to Jaleo and El Bulli--he also ran the kitchen of Cafe Atlantico down here in DC, which under Jose's direction was turning out the most interesting food in the city.

and by mentioning Kaz and his efforts at your NYC restaurant you do Ferran a great honor--by helping to further establish him as mentor and influence worldwide. It's something that will come out in time and something the Ferran naysayers and skeptics have been asking for here on eGullet from day one. Ferran mentors Jose and in turn Jose's sous chefs go forth in the world and do interesting things. Chefs make the pilgrimage to el bulli and return re-energized. The honest ones will speak of this debt publicly. thank you for taking the time to add this.

and as for your spelling--do you realize what time it is?

[tan319]

Oh, in case anyone is interested, the glorious Oriol Balaguer pastry book has been translated into English and is now available from JB Prince. It's the closest anyone will come to El Bulli and Adria desserts in English until Alberto's plated dessert book in English is released in November.

Just wondering whatever happened to Albertos plated dessert book? The English one.

I remember seeing something about this on the FPS site the 1st time he guested there.

BTW, the '98/02 book rocks, the CD-rom is the most incredible thing I've ever seen!

[Behemoth]

Interview with Adria about "Fast Good" on the PBS show Foreign Exchange:

You can watch a video by going here