Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Recommended Posts

Simply: thank you for sharing with us. You've given me insight, educated me, and made me curious. What a gift.

Not to mention, I've developed an obscene addiction to Spanish almonds, maracona (sp?), and I hold you directly responsible!  :laugh:

Thank you, Judith for the repeated kind responses. I do appreciate them. Those marcona almonds are nastily addictive though, aren't they? Don't get started on iberico though! That can be a very expensive habit. :wink::laugh:

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

A few photos from Ferran Adria's small group demonstration:

gallery_8158_4179_60916.jpg

The line-up of Texturas Products.

gallery_8158_4179_57228.jpg

Ferran chats with Dr. Tim Ryan, President of the Culinary Institute of America through an interpreter.

gallery_8158_4179_70689.jpg

Harold McGee and Ferran Adria. McGee was the moderator of the session.

gallery_8158_4179_78212.jpg

Potato vs. truffle. How would the potato be viewed if it was as rare and costly as a truffle?

gallery_8158_4179_53316.jpg

A demonstration and discussion.

gallery_8158_4179_14875.jpg

Ferran and his lightly cooked clams.

gallery_8158_4179_65493.jpg

Rafa Morales and Ferran Adria squeeze shrimp heads.

gallery_8158_4179_19134.jpg

Lightly cooked shrimp.

gallery_8158_4179_69949.jpg

Rafa Morales pours melted ice cream into an Isi "Gourmet Whip" to make whipped cream. Many of Adria's techniques are transferable to a home kitchen.

gallery_8158_4179_12566.jpg

Adria makes carrot "air".

gallery_8158_4179_32226.jpg

Using Xantham Gum.

gallery_8158_4179_35902.jpg

Ferran with a can of agar.

gallery_8158_4179_51311.jpg

gallery_8158_4179_81830.jpg

Making fresh orange sorbet with liquid nitrogen.

Though it has taken awhile, this concludes the content for my presentation of this incredible conference that I was fortunate enough to attend. I hope that you have enjoyed it and perhaps more inclined to set a place for Spain and Spanish food at your table.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeez, 'doc!

it's been awhile sice I first ventured into this amazing essay.

truly great stuff.

Question: You mention book signings by Oriol Balaguer amongst others.

Was it Dessert Cuisine or La Cocina Dolce or a (I pray) a new one?

Thanks again for such a stellar presentation!

Edited by tan319 (log)

2317/5000

Link to post
Share on other sites
Jeez, 'doc!

it's been awhile sice I first ventured into this amazing essay.

truly great stuff.

Question: You mention book signings by Oriol Balaguer amongst others.

Was it Dessert Cuisine or La Cocina Dolce or a (I pray) a new one?

Thanks again for such a stellar presentation!

Thanks, Ted. I remember seeing Dessert Cuisine, but not the other. It's a beautiful book.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

The L.A. Times has an article today on Identità Golose:

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...-headlines-food

The Taste of Things to Come

At a most unusual chefs' conference, great ideas trumped pomp and pretention.

By Regina Schrambling, Special to The Times

February 7, 2007

Milan, Italy — THINK of Italy, and wild and crazy exchanges of cooking ideas are not what come to mind first. This is a country where each and every region is a world apart; the Tuscans in the center might as well be on Mars for all the interaction with the Piemontese to the northwest.

Which makes the frenzy of Identità Golose (literally "greedy identity") all the more extraordinary. For three days last week some of the biggest names in "molecular gastronomy" (Ferran Adrià, Wylie Dufresne) were mixing and matching secrets with more traditional chefs from Italy, France, Scandinavia, even Japan. The result was a dazzling exploration of new ways to cook fish, present pasta and generally make a restaurant meal more like a night at La Scala. Throw in sugar surrealism for dessert and it was hard to remember this was all happening in the land of plain fruit and tired tiramisu.

Edited by Joe Blowe (log)

So we finish the eighteenth and he's gonna stiff me. And I say, "Hey, Lama, hey, how about a little something, you know, for the effort, you know." And he says, "Oh, uh, there won't be any money. But when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness."

So I got that goin' for me, which is nice.

Link to post
Share on other sites
The L.A. Times has an article today on Identità Golose:

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...-headlines-food

The Taste of Things to Come

At a most unusual chefs' conference, great ideas trumped pomp and pretention.

By Regina Schrambling, Special to The Times

February 7, 2007

Milan, Italy — THINK of Italy, and wild and crazy exchanges of cooking ideas are not what come to mind first. This is a country where each and every region is a world apart; the Tuscans in the center might as well be on Mars for all the interaction with the Piemontese to the northwest.

Which makes the frenzy of Identità Golose (literally "greedy identity") all the more extraordinary. For three days last week some of the biggest names in "molecular gastronomy" (Ferran Adrià, Wylie Dufresne) were mixing and matching secrets with more traditional chefs from Italy, France, Scandinavia, even Japan. The result was a dazzling exploration of new ways to cook fish, present pasta and generally make a restaurant meal more like a night at La Scala. Throw in sugar surrealism for dessert and it was hard to remember this was all happening in the land of plain fruit and tired tiramisu.

I wonder if the following passage from the article is a portent of the 2007 season at El Bulli?

Adrià, who was greeted like Mick Jagger by an auditorium full of chefs, food media and others, also demonstrated his new technique for turning seaweed into "caviar" by mixing chemicals to gel it and dropping it into liquid from a syringe. But that was just part of his larger point that seaweed is the ingredient of the future, given that no fewer than 500 varieties exist, many known only by their biological names at this point.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciated the information that the author was presenting, but 'tired tiramisu'? She needs to get out a little more. I can't remember the last time I saw tiramisu at a restaurant in Italy. Maybe that's what they serve in L.A. at Italian restaurants?

Apparently she responds to sweets more than savory:

"Sugar traditionalists can hope more chefs took away the last lesson of the conference, given by Galileo Reposo, a twentysomething chef who worked at Alain Ducasse's new restaurant in Tuscany. One of his creations layered pistachio shortbread with orange conserve, then partially gelled pastry cream, followed by a dip in melted white chocolate and a dusting of chopped pistachios; the precise perfection was plated with pistachio cream and orange sorbet. It was clearly more French pâtisserie than Italian dolce. But it could be a huge advance over tiramisu in a country where the food borders are now wide open."

I'm guessing this was put in here so that we could all go, "EEEEWWWW!"

"But most were left to the palate's imagination (luckily, in the case of the purée of pork lung and Jerusalem artichoke served under sweetbreads baked in blood pudding and garnished with shards of crispy pig's ear that a Swedish chef concocted)."

Sorry, the article couldn't make up its mind if it wanted to be snarky, informative or just gratuitous.

Edit because I couldn't make the quote thing work properly.

Edited by hathor (log)
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

I love Spain and its various sections. I love the food. I love the scenery and I love the people. I have had the pleasure and good fortune to visit parts of the country several times over recent years and certainly looked forward to going back at some point in the not-to-distant future. That is until this conference which whet the appetite for a return for both my wife and myself that simply couldn't wait too long. This past weekend we returned from an all too brief, but very intense culinary tour de force to Catalunya and the Community of Valencia. I will use this topic to relate a few observations.

Spain has become known for its inventive modern cuisine manifest most visibly to the world by Ferran Adria and elBulli. The incredible level of creativity of that restaurant and others, I am happy to say, continues. It does so, but the quality, degree and recognition of Spain's traditional cuisines have assumed greater prominence in the imaginations of both the chefs and the public than I recall from recent visits. For the most part, the cuisines exist in harmony with respect for both approaches and in many cases harmonious co-existence within the same restaurant or in the work of the same chef in sister restaurants. An example of the former is El Poblet, Quique Dacosta's vanguard haven in Denia in Alicante. While Dacosta's degustation menu is decidedly vanguardist, his regular menu is strong on tradition and pristine ingredients. An example of the latter is Maria Jose San Roman's neighboring restaurants, Monastrell and La Taberna in the city of Alicante. Though not unabashedly vanguardist, Monastrell is creative alta cocina retaining respect for local tradition. La Taberna is unabashedly traditional.

Ca Sento in Valencia has been described under the helm of Raul Alexeindre as a "vanguardist" haven. Though Aleixandre has great respect for his mentor Adria, I saw straightforward, beautiful presentations of traditional cuisine with an emphasis on spurity and simplicity. The meal was outstanding, the highlights of which were a cigala a la plancha on a bed of salt and a crab and shrimp based fideua.

Yet the vanguardists, including Adria and Joan Roca continue to create marvelous and delicious dishes. These dishes, while still offering exotic ingredients and not lacking in the technical innovations that both chefs have become known for are clearly based on their own Catalan and Spanish traditions. Dishes were loaded with local ingredients and acknowledgment of local culinary traditions. Perhaps Roca's most discussed recent dish - "Mar y Montaña" - an oyster "sauced lightly with a distillate of local "earth" is the best example of this. Surf and turf is a classic Catalan composition with this being a natural offshoot of that tradition. The minerals from the earth are supposed to provide the same component to the oyster as a great wine match like a flinty Chablis. I had the dish and it worked! I enjoyed the combination even if it may not become my favorite mode of eating the bivalves. It tasted good, it made me think and it made me laugh. What more can one ask for from alta cucina?

Though the vanguard remains strong and creativity continues to be a prominent aspect throughout Spanish culture, the continued and perhaps even exalted quality of the more traditional culinary components of Spanish cooking such as seafood and pork has become ever more in demand. This is true despite an obvious increase in cost of enjoying these delicacies. This is particularly true of seafood as supply pressures are becoming more obvious with extremely high prices for items that were perhaps more readily available a few years ago.

Our trip took us through the highest circles of Catalan Vanguard cooking and traditional cuisines. In a week we made it to elBulli, Can Roca, L'Esguard, Kiosk Universal, Aligue and the home of friends in Catalunya; and Levante, Casa Montaña, El Poblet, Ca Sento, Monastrell and Taberna in Valencia/Alicante. We had great tastes of both the vanguard and the traditional. I for one, am glad that both types of cooking exist and especially there, where they co-exist so well. It makes life and dining so much more interesting and fun.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

Our trip took us through the highest circles of Catalan Vanguard cooking and traditional cuisines. In a week we made it to elBulli, Can Roca, L'Esguard, Kiosk Universal, Aligue and the home of friends in Catalunya; and Levante, Casa Montaña, El Poblet, Ca Sento, Monastrell and Taberna in Valencia/Alicante. We had great tastes of both the vanguard and the traditional. I for one, am glad that both types of cooking exist and especially there, where they co-exist so well. It makes life and dining so much more interesting and fun.

Good lord. You did all that in a week???

You know what you have really made me aware of: that 'vanguardism' in Spain is organic. Meaning that it has grown, logically and respectfully from it's traditional roots. This is a critical distinction.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very belated, but...

Thanks for the meticulous documentation of the WoF conference. I've been working in the kitchen at the conferences for the past three years, but considered 2006 the best yet. The hours at the conference are long to begin with; taking the extra time each day to photograph, write, and organize shows a real commitment.

Although working in the Graystone kitchens was (and always is) a treat, it didn't afford any real opportunity to see the presentations or to hear the discussions. As the presentations and breakout sessions were going on, we were doing prep for upcoming demonstrations and cooking for the evening barrel room tastings. Your narrative and pictures actually gave me more of a sense of the conference than working at the conference!

brian

"Num Num!"

-Julia

Link to post
Share on other sites
Very belated, but...

Thanks for the meticulous documentation of the WoF conference. I've been working in the kitchen at the conferences for the past three years, but considered 2006 the best yet. The hours at the conference are long to begin with; taking the extra time each day to photograph, write, and organize shows a real commitment.

Although working in the Graystone kitchens was (and always is) a treat, it didn't afford any real opportunity to see the presentations or to hear the discussions. As the presentations and breakout sessions were going on, we were doing prep for upcoming demonstrations and cooking for the evening barrel room tastings. Your narrative and pictures actually gave me more of a sense of the conference than working at the conference!

Thanks for the feedback, Brian and welcome to eGullet! Without the work of yourself and others like you the Conference couldn't have been the success that it was.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Similar Content

    • By kostbill
      I really want to improve the flavor of my chicken breast so I want to try to inject brine with fat and flavors.
       
      I would like to try brining with some hydrocolloids. The one example I found is this: https://torontofoodlab.com/2013/08/20/meat-tenderizing-with-a-carrageenan-brine/.
       
      However I cannot apply that to my chicken breast because I am cooking it sous vide, so the chicken will not reach the temperature needed for the carrageenan to gel.
       
      I am thinking of using Methyl cellulose, first disperse in hot water, then leave it for 24 hours in the fridge, then add salt, fat and flavors and inject it.
      I am afraid that until it reaches the 50C or 60C that the Methyl cellulose needs in order to gel, the liquid will escape.
      Any ideas?
      Thanks.
    • By Anonymous Modernist 760
      Thanks for putting up this forum 🙂
      I would like to bake using a combination of sous vide and a conventional oven. Would it be possible to put the dough in a vacuum bag cook it sous vide at 37C for the dough to raise optimal and then put it in a conventional oven?
      Thanks
    • By swpeterson
      I have been buying country style bone-in ribs instead of bone-in pork chops. I season them with a rub very similar to Emeril's Rustic Rub spice rub and use a heaping tablespoon a rendered Nueskie's Applewood smoked bacon fat in the Food Saver vacumn bag. We have been using 2 ribs in the bag but have made the decision to switch to one to split. The meat is so rich and flavorful that we can easily split one and enjoy the meal even more.
      For a sauce, I cobbled together a sauce made with the juice of half a valencia orange, the pulp from 1 passion fruit, 1 cup pitted cherries (I used rainiers and bings in this one), 1 tsp Dijon mustard, 1/2 cup white wine, juice from 1 lime, 2 tsp honey, garlic cloves crushed (I used roasted garlic that I keep in the fridge and 'crushed' them in my 'special' coffee grinder(2)) and 1 medium sized shallot. I used the same bacon fat to soften the shallots, then added the rest of the ingredients and let it reduce by about a third and then let it rest and reheated it when the pork ribs were done.
      I kept them in the sous vide at 141 from 10:00 AM until I got home from work at 7:00. It took another half hour +/- to change clothes, pour a glass of wine, reheat the sauce, make a salad, and heat up the garlic bread that I keep prepped in the freezer. After the bread was heated for about 8 minutes, I switched the oven to broil and took the bread out of the oven.
      I have started to experiment with using the broiler element to put color on the proteins that I have cooked in the sous vide. I have placed the oven rack on the third rack from the top, leave the door ajar while I bring the broiler element up to heat. I use my 10" stainless steel saute pan with a stainless steel rack in the pan for the protein. I open the sous vide package and pour the liquid that has accumulated in the bag into the bottom of the pan. I put the ribs, fattest side up on the rack and place the pan in the oven. I leave the door ajar and let them stay in there for 8 mnutes.
      That timing has worked extremely well for both the ribs and the chicken that I have done. I don't flip them yet and that hasn't been necessary for those 2 proteins. (I was much less successful with this formula for the flank steak which I think needs to be closer the heat source for less time).
      At any rate, the broiler is working well for color and the meat and sauce are great. The sauce also works very well with chicken. Haven't tried it yet with the salmon.
      Just wanted to share as I really love this sous vide thing and wanted to share.
      Sorry no photos yet. I haven't figured that part out yet but my husband promises to teach me.
    • By PedroG
      Utilization of meat leftovers from sous-vide cooking
      Sometimes when you buy a nice cut of meat, your eyes are bigger than your and your beloved's stomach. So what to do with the leftovers?
      In Tyrolia (Austria) they make a "Gröstl", in Solothurn (Switzerland) they make a "Gnusch", in the Seftigenamt (a region in the Swiss canton Berne) they make a "Gmüder", and we (Pedro and SWAMBO) make a varying concoct using ideas from all of the three. We call it "Gröstl", but it is not necessarily a typical Tyrolean Gröstl, and it is different each time, and we usually do not top it with a fried egg as they do in Austria.
      Ingredients

      All your meat leftovers
      Onion (compulsory)
      Any hard vegetable (we prefer celery stalks, or zucchini)
      Any salad (iceberg lettuce or endive/chicory or any other salad leaves, may contain carrot julienne)
      Fried potatoes, or alternatively sweetcorn kernels
      Sherry or wine or bouillon or the gravy you preserved from your last LTLT.cooked meat for simmering (I usually prefer Sherry)
      Eventually some cream (or crème fraîche)
      Salt, pepper, parsley, caraway seeds (typical for Tyrolean Gröstl), paprika, condiment (in Switzerland we use "Aromat" by Knorr, which contains sodium chloride, sodium glutamate, lactose, starch, yeast extract, vegetable fats, onions, spices, E552)'
      vegetable oil (I prefer olive oil)




      Mise en place

      cut your meat in small cubes or slices
      cut the onion(s) not too fine (place the first cut below your tongue to avoid tearing during cutting)
      cut the vegetables about 3-4 mm thick
      cut the salads to pieces smaller than 4 cm, distribute on the cutting board and season deliberately
      cut the potatoes to 1 cm cubes
      place 3 heavy skillets with ample oil on the stove

      Cooking

      in skillet 1, stir-fry the onions, add the hard vegetables still stir-frying, add salad, add sufficient liquid (Sherry or wine or bouillon or gravy) for simmering under a cover until soft. If desired, reduce heat and add some cream at the end.
      in skillet 2, stir-fry the potatoes until soft (in case of sweetcorn kernels, add to skillet 1 after stir-frying and use skillet 2 for skillet 3)
      in skillet 3, as soon as the vegetables and the potatoes are soft, sear the meat in just smoking oil for 30-60 seconds, then add to skillet 1

      Serving
      You may mix the potatoes with the vegetables and meat to make a rather typical Gröstl, or serve the fried potatoes separately; we prefer the latter, as the potatoes stay more crunchy.
      Do not forget to serve a glass of good dry red wine!
    • By PedroG
      Brisket „Stroganoff“ Sous Vide With Mixed Mushrooms

      Ingredients for 2 servings
      about 400g well marbled Brisket
      3 tablespoons rice bran oil or other high smoke point oil (grapeseed oil)
      3 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil
      3 tablespoons Cognac (brandy)
      2 small onions, finely diced
      ½ yellow or red bell peppers cut into strips
      90 g mixed mushrooms
      100 ml of gravy from last Brisket (or concentrated stock)
      1 teaspoon mustard, Dijon type
      1 teaspoon paprika mild (not spicy!)
      1 medium pickled cucumber cut into thin strips
      2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
      approx. 120g sour cream with herbs
      Sous Vide - cooking
      Marinate brisket with Mexican style (medium hot) marinade in the vacuum bag for at least 3 days at 1 ° C, cook sous vide 48 hours at 55.0 ° C.
      Preparing the sauce
      At a moderate heat sauté onions in olive oil, add peppers (preblanched in the microwave oven for 2-3 minutes) and mushroom mixture, stir-fry, remove from heat and add the gravy. Add pickled cucumber, pepper, mustard and cognac. Put on very low heat, add sour cream and keep warm, but do not boil as the cream will separate. Remove the brisket from the bag, cut into strips (about 8x10x35mm), sear very quickly in smoking-hot rice bran oil, add the meat and the parsley to the sauce.
      Serving
      Serve on warmed plates. Typically served with spätzle (south German) or chnöpfli (Swiss).
      And don't forget a glass of good red wine!
      Enjoy your meal!
      Pedro

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...