eG Foodblog: divina - Over the Tuscan Stove

[Abra]

This is such a fun blog, Divina! That olive oil was amazingly green - did they leave a lot of leaves in it for the pressing?

The droghe sounds like quatre epices, only with six spices. Can you give us the proportions?

[KatieLoeb]

Divina:

Thank you so much for this little peek into your world. Great armchair travelling again. The olive oil tutorial was brilliant.

Your house looks lovely and the kitties look so content! I love the little white locket on Stellino's chest. Very handsome kitties.

[divina]

more foto's

Countryside:

I guess you could call this my front yard.

the old road that passes in front.

when digging around we found the old road sign.... and then our neighbors put it in their wall!

FLorence:

On via San Antonino ( perfect as Saint Anthony Abate is the patron saint to pig butchers)

is this temple to pork!

recently they closed down the shop next door, which was just the butchers, and incorporated the fresh butchers into the salami shop and turned the butchers into a restaurant with garden in the back.. who knew!

But more... it is a place where a meal is 8 Euro!

they have chosen to compete with the shwarma guys, and offer precooked meals to go or you can stay and eat there sitting down.

market butcher making his house blend rub for the meats

Rosemary, garlic and salt.

some of the boys.

Andrea Perini

Alessandro Baroni

Ferdinando... with one of the most PERFECT shop's

Upstairs in the market...

Porcini grow on a hot day after it rains under chestnut or oak trees..at a certain altitude.

Florentines tend to use more chili pepper... that black pepper

In Chianti:

at Falorni's butcher shop, prosciutto everywhere!

This is actually Spalla, a cured meat made from the shoulder.. of the Cinta Senese, a pig ( saddleback) that was almost extint, and brought back!!!

full of fat...and flavor!

the original Vino Sfuso shops bulk wine, were in the town villa's of the rich. All over town there are these, now closed, wine doors. One would put in an empty bottle and buy their oil and wine directly from the producers.

Some of these wine doors are now doorbells, mailboxes or frescoed.

[divina]

I will get a bag of the DROGHE and read what is really in there.. I think more than 6!!!

but the idea is like the french Quattro Epices.

When Kate Hill and I did our presentation at IACP with Fergus Henderson on Pork, and preserving, she had brought her butcher blend and I mine!

there are some many variations.

The olives in Tuscany are picked greener, and not just black.

they leave the leaves in, but most are washed away. I had always heard that some leaves left in dows increase the Greeness..and also the bite.. that is so prevelant in the oils of my area. a Peppery bite..

which is probably also why Florentines don't use much black pepper.

they get it from the Oil, chili and salad greens themselves.

[prasantrin]

Andrea Perini

This picture looks like it belongs in a magazine or travel guide! I seriously thought it was a professional photo--the rosy glow of his cheeks, the reflection of the light off the hanging meat. Beautiful!

[Pan]

I love the sign on the chilis: "Directly from Hell."

[Domestic Goddess]

Like what KatieLoeb said, great arm chair travelogue. Although my arm chair is really a computer chair, but I am ooh'ing and aah'ing at your wonderful pictures and fabulous descriptions/recipes.

[divina]

here is the scary part.. the books!

and certaldo

only some of the books.... totally out of control.. will not show you the LARGEST of all in Florence with 20 years of Italian cooking magazines!

[docsconz]

Divina this has been a great ride so far with insights not only into the fabulous city of Firenze and the beautiful Chianti countryside, but also the business of running a cooking school. Ever since I went on a trip with Peggy Markel a number of years back, I have wanted to return to Firenze for cooking classes.

[divina]

city hall in Florence

City hall in Certaldo

My view

My galley-style kitchen.

pots

[divina]

A little seasonal recipe... simply Divina!!!

Cinghiale in Dolce Forte

a sweet and sour wild boar recipe

Before Columbus discovered the New World and brought back the fruit from the "money tree" (cocoa beans were so valuable they were used as currency and as an unsweetened drink in Aztec religious ceremonies), chocolate was used to enrich stews. This classic dish resembles Mexican mole, but is much lighter. It is my favorite dish to serve at a formal party.

Marinade:

2 cups red wine

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

I tbs pumpkin pie spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice)

1 carrot, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 celery stock, chopped

3 pounds wild boar, venison, or pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes

4 tbs butter or olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

I tbs pumpkin pie spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice)

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate

1 tbs pine nuts

3 ounces dried prunes, cut in half

1 tbs chilli pepper

Grated zest of one orange

1 tbs raisins

1 tbs sugar

If using wild game, the meat should definitely be marinated.

With other meats, this step is optional but recommended.

Bring the marinade to a boil and let cool.

Cover the meat and let it sit in the marinade for 48 hours.

Remove the meat and remove the solids from the marinade.

Sauté the onion in butter or olive oil until golden.

Add the meat and brown lightly.

Add the rest of the ingredients, the strained marinade liquid, and cook until the meat is tender, stirring occasionally. Add water if needed. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Serve with creamy polenta or on a thick slice of toasted country style bread.

Buon appetito!

[little ms foodie]

that recipe for the boar sounds soooo good!!!

Love the pictures of your home in the country, its beautiful!

[divina]

No blog of mine would be complete without a foto of Dario Cecchini...

I discovered Dario thanks to Faith Willingers book, Eating in Italy, when it came out.

Took me awhile to actually find Dario as the village was not famous and there was no reason to go out there for me.....and when I did go I couldn't find him.

Third time is a charm.

Found him I did and was mesmerized at how he wove tales, his passion for food... and eventually his friendship. Not somthing given away easily!

I worked with Dario in his shop on Sundays first.. helping to pour wine while clients wait to be served.. then behind the cash register, helping to bag and also translate and finally moving into the kitchen where I helped with the preparation of foods for sale in the shop and catering dinners.

My Mostarda I created while working there is still for sale and has made a big hit in Italy, actually creating a whole new market for jellies with Cheese.

When I first made it, I wanted to show Dario some "americanate"... cream cheese and red pepper jelly, but some things just don't translate and pre-internet.. I didn't have a recipe and faked it and served the Mostarda, originally called Judy's Jelly, then Cotognata Cecchini,

with a local fresh pecorino cheese DArio used in the shop.

My meat ragu Fiamme di Inferno is also still for sale....sort of based on chili.

I also made a sort of Harissa called Sudore di Satano, Satan's Sweat.

Actually all of my recipes in the shop where chili based.

I see a return of the Diva and Dario!!!

I miss working there..was a true experience, and still benefit from the friendships created there.

If you get a chance, his new restaurant SOLOCICCIA is fun!

Last time I went.. we had:

fried onion rings, sage and tiny meatballs

Ragu crostini

Raw veggies with salt and oil

Boiled beef with green sauce

Roast beef with herbs and oil

Potroast

tuscan beans

CAke and coffee

and digestives.

30 euro a person..

table wine, water included.

We brought wine from Cennatoio winery, Dario's neighbors...

no corkage!

My week has come to an end.. but not my blogging.

Today was ruined.. I was supposed to be going to an IACP luncheon at a villa in the countryside, but got stopped by the police for a routine checkup..and they took my licence away!

REDTAPE

Being that I am an American.. but married to an Italian.. technically I should have an Italian drivers licence.. BUT since where I have my business is in my name but rented to me as a non resident.... I don't have residency... which if I did would need an Italian licence.

SO NOW.. I have to get residency at my place in the countyside.. hope my landlord in Florence doens't figure it out ( he only rents to non residents) ...

AHHH the Dolce Vita!

Ciao for now!

[Milagai]

So sorry about the red tape Divina; you are

being amazingly philosophical.

I would have been alternately

shrieking and sobbing by now.....

Excellent stories about your week however and

your enduring culinary contributions.....

Wishing you all the best to restore normalcy

as soon as possible.

How long will it take you to get the correct

licence?

Milagai

[Eden]

Poor Divina! I take it this wasn't a situation where a bustarella would have fixed things? I hope it all sorts out!

I've really enjoyed your blog this week - I'm supposed to be over there next Spring, but after all your mouthwatering descriptions & pictures I'm having a hard time waiting...

[Pontormo]

←

I am so happy you included this shot with the stuffed piggies at the table dressed up as Babbo Natale, I am guessing. One of my favorite streets starting with the wine guys and barrels of dried white beans all the way down past the lovely stuffed pasta and cheap shoes to the bus stops ringing Santa Maria Novella!

This entire page really serves as an appropriate climax to your blog, such wonderful pictures, new information and that quinessential moment of being but not being a part of your home with all the bureaucracy that is Italy. (So sorry!!!) That flow of bright green olive oil is so gorgeous and the whole series of pictures perfectly complements the Little Miss Foodie tour of the cheese plant (Parm-Reg) in her thread down in the Italian forum. I even had to smile when I saw your documented lunch since I finished off my crostini with chicken livers this afternoon.

Before logging off to face an ironing board and kitchen chores, I have to say the views from BOTH your doors are spectacular: the Mercato Centrale in the city and that beautiful, beautiful countryside where you can escape Vespas, the crowds and in summer, the heat. What a lovely home and great friends.

As this draws to a close and the cold wind whips through rain-soaked leaves, I raise a mug of tea. It doesn't exactly ping against a glass of Chianti, but it still means "Chin-chin!" and "Thank you!"

[divina]

I am not a bustarella type of girl.. don't know who to pay off..

we won't even go into the restoration on my house that took 8 years!!!

it is a tiny one bedroom!!!

If I had known who to pay off... I would have.

I almost had a stroke 245/150! Emergency room!

I did cry! but got over it!

The book is a bible, and I just found out now there is an english version and I can ask to be tested in English too!

My friend told me she just took it and it was ok.

you have to know all about motors too!

[Chufi]

Divina, that boar is in my recipe file. It looks so good.

I am very sorry about the licence-trouble.. I hope it will be allright..

Thank you so much for this week. I learned a lot, and really enjoyed spending time with you at the market, in the shops and your kitchen.

[divina]

the little pigs are dressed in medieval costumes now for a event that happened years ago.. for the guelfi and the ghibelline...and stayed that way.

The bean guy's mom retired and he sold out.. his sister changed the place to a sandwich place and now it is being redone again!

who knows?

He has married a wonderful Mexicna girl who was here at the fashion institute and had her own stand with scarves..and now they are moving back to mexico.. where he will bring Italy to Mexico City!

thanks for the nice notes!

[divina]

Thanks.. hope to see you soon in Amsterdam!

on one of your market tours!

I'll be your first client!

[ghostrider]

Delightful blog, delightful cats!

Been to Florence half a dozen times but not, alas, for about 12 years. Surprised to hear about the changes at the Mercato Centrale. It was always one of our great pleasures to walk around the place & buy bits of ham, cheese, & fruits for our lunch. (I remember finding a great little bakery almost hidden by the vendors at the outdoor street market.)

Hope I'm not too late to ask what kind of camera you are using? The colors in your photos are really striking. Or do they just come out that way, regardless of what kind of camera you have, because it's Italy?

[fou de Bassan]

Divina,

You don"t know how sad I am to have come in at the end of your blog! The photos have been wonderful and you have such an engaging "voice". I hope your troubles will be speedily resolved and that your school continues with unabated success.

[divina]

Fou,

Thanks!

I have my own blog which I have had since July 2003 and there is a link on my signature, so follow alone.

The Whole HOg blog was part of a joint project with Kate Hill for our seminar with Fergus Henderson at IACP in Seattle last year.. so it isn't as up to date, but our passion for pork Continues and workshops in Italy and France are in the future.

Ghostrider.

I have a KODAK with a fabulous lense..and yes.. the light in Italy is fabulous.. which I remember especially on days like this!

It is indian summer here and fall is n all it's glory!

I will continue to answer questions here, but will turn my blogging back to my blog as this was for a week.. and there will be a new blogger today I think!

[hathor]

Grazie mille for blogging Divina!! It was a wonderful, wonderful opportunity to spend some time with you.

Total drag about the license. So far, I put on my happy tourist face, and ask the nice policeman, "Which way to Cortona? You know, Under the Tuscan Sun?" They get frustratred and let us go. But, I know those days are numbered.....

Its amazing to me to see the quantity and variety of ingredients that you have at your disposal. Its weird to think that you are about 2 hours away, but a world away at the same time. Ah, Italy never ceases to confound.

We head back to NY this week, so I'll have to live vicariously thru your blog!

Thanks again,

Judith

[divina]

I really can't say how lucky I am to havethe best of both worlds.. there isn't enough time in a one week blog to show the variety of what is availble to me here in FLorence ( expecially with slow dialup internet, each foto entry took over an hour to do!)

I can get any part of a cow or pig...

A variety of international food products now, fresh, ginger, limes ( which were contraband when I first moved here)

there is a market near me, VIVI where I can get almost anything.. phillipino, Mexican, American Chinese and Japanese!!!

The new immigrants are opening their own shops now too... good news or bad?

I remembe someone saying in a previous post how they could not come back to Florence now.. it is so touristy.

It has been a tourist town forever... the numbers are up but it is alive!

more tourism more income and perhaps the locals can survive the Euro!

I was in Israel in the late 70's before the peace treaty... bombings daily..always having to call home and let my mom know it wasn't me found dead no a beach somewhere.

But even now, I would still go back to Jeruselem in a heartbeat.

Things have gotten worse.. or just more press?

I still love my Florence, even though she has changed, there are some things that never will... like in a marraige, for better or worse!