Parkside Game & Wild Mushroom Festival

[*Deborah*]

I was fortunate enough to attend the first night of Parkside's inaugural Game & Wild Mushroom Festival last night.

We were a party of 8, and Chef was kind enough to offer us a menu. We're no fools, and were happy to take it

I had a Grapefruit Negroni to begin, and Tony opened a bottle of Marchesi de Frescobaldi Mormoreto Nippozzano (...2000? can't remember the vintage) for my friend and me.

First out was the Jerusalem artichoke and celery root soup, hazelnut oil, game pie. I think this was my first Jerusalem artichoke. It was a lovely, creamy and subtle soup, with a few toasty hazelnuts in the bowl as well. The little game pithivier was just delectable: flaky pastry, tasty meat within.

Next arrival: Grilled quail salad with lentils and bacon. Everyone at the table was saying BACON! when this arrived a half a grilled quail, tasty and moist, with microgreens and a bed of subtly curried lentils. Oh yes, and a slice of bacon. You never feel quite as carnivorous as when you are gnawing on the diminutive drumstick of a quail, somehow.

A pasta course of Fettuccine, wild boar bacon, peas, porcini mushroom cream was next. The pasta courses at Parkside have never disappointed, and this was no exception. Rich but not overbearing, beautiful fettucine. (I can't wait to eat at the next Durbach-helmed restaurant, the pasta's going to rock!) The sauce... *swoons*

Next, eight cool little black casseroles were presented, filled with Rabbit "Cacciatore" with gnocchi The pillow of love within was gorgeous, fried. The sauce was deep and rich. The meat was moist and flavourful.

We thought we were done for savoury, when lo and behold, Grilled medallions of red deer, sauce au poivre, Raclette potato came out. Many of our number were defeated by this course, but I am happy to say that I was not one of them. Stupendous, juicy venison. The sauce was another superstar.

We got to choose our dessert, and in spite of a rumour of Banoffi Pie in the house, my pick was the Chocolate tart with wild strawberry ice cream, as the ice cream sounded exactly right for me. It was delicious, of course! the ice cream was not too sweet, and very fresh-tasting. The chocolate tart is smooth as silk. Other choices at the table included Banoffi, the Panna Cotta with Huckleberries, and the Maple Syrup Tarte Sucrée. I heard no complaints. Oh and as a fan of Gosset Champagne, I was intrigued to try their Marc de Champagne, which is a bit outside my normal round of (sweet) dessert and after-dinner drinks. I enjoyed it, although I can't really offer a useful comparison.

***

I highly recommend this menu, the BOH has such a sure hand with these earthy Fall flavours. I hope that I'm able to return to sample more dishes before next year: this is promised as an annual event.

[the g-man]

All of that sounds amazing. I have a question about your pre-dinner drink - what goes into a grapefruit negroni? Is it just a normal negroni with grapefruit juice? Ever since your foodblog earlier this year I have been drinking campari with that orange san pellegrino stuff, you are the master of new campari cocktails.

[*Deborah*]

I really like Campari when it's hot and before dinner...I'm glad you're liking it with the Aranciata lacking Aranciata or Limonata, the drink I had before I left the house yesterday was made with Fresca

From their website, these are the ingredients for the grapefruit Negroni: "grapefruit sorbet, gin, Campari, sweet vermouth, fresh grapefruit juice, shaken." With a twist of lemon, as well. Charles makes these beautiful fruit sorbets (actually, I just assume it's Charles who makes them...it could be the kitchen), they really enhance his cocktails.

["T"]

I was there last night and the wild mushrooms and brioche then the oyster special were standouts. Parkside is my go to room in this city. For me they can do no wrong.

You guys rock 8 days a week!!!!!

[CompassRose]

I went to The Parkside during my semi-vacation in Vancouver last week. I wrote a full report, which includes the shameful truth that I really don't belong in such fancy surroundings, here:

http://compassrose.vox.com/library/post/mmm-swanky.html

Great meal, though.

[makanmakan]

Due to my weakness for Chef's Wild Mushroom Risotto (my all time favourite dish in the city), I couldn't resist it....thus resulting in my falling off my foie wagon. Yes, the taste buds won over the ethical guilt. The veggie version just wouldn't be the same. It was well worth it though.

The Red Deer was fabulous as well. Tender, juicy. Perfection.

Me thinks another visit before this festival is over is a necessity!

[Ling]

^The wild mushroom/foie risotto was on the menu for the last few days, but I just checked it again and now it's risotto with meat juices for an extra 3 bucks. Could you describe what the foie risotto was like...I'd like to try making it at home. Do you think they seared foie and used the fat to enrich it? Were there actual pieces of foie in it?

My reservations are for tomorrow. Guess I was a day too late!

Edited October 25, 2006 by Ling (log)

[makanmakan]

^The wild mushroom/foie risotto was on the menu for the last few days, but I just checked it again and now it's risotto with meat juices for an extra 3 bucks. Could you describe what the foie risotto was like...I'd like to try making it at home. Do you think they seared foie and used the fat to enrich it? Were there actual pieces of foie in it?

My reservations are for tomorrow. Guess I was a day too late!

←

Sheer devastation ensues. Sigh....

There were definitely small pieces of foie in it. Each bite that had some foie was a nice little surprise that melted in my mouth. They may have also used the fat to enrich the meat juices. I've tried making it at home (without foie) and my meat juices never turn out as dark and rich as they make it, even with a good shot of demi glace in it. I always have to resist dredging that bread in the sauce to sop it all up. It's not very graceful though.

Have a great dinner tomorrow night!

BTW, the wild mushrooms on brioche was delicious as well.

[PearL]

Went back for the deer again. Love, love, love. It's so tender! The grilled quail is tasty, too. Held back from the usual ordering too many dishes so I could indulge in dessert for once. Chocolate tart + strawberry icecream is oh so nice...

Edited October 25, 2006 by PearL (log)

[Memo]

The Pheasant scallopine with Holstein ham, Riesling sauce, spaetzle, morels had me - for the first time - enjoying Fall.

Memo - winter, spring, summer or fall, all you gotta do is call

Edited October 25, 2006 by Memo (log)

[winegeek]

My wife and I are having the pleasure of dining at Parkside on Sunday night. It has been soooo long since we were last there. Will report back!

Edited October 29, 2006 by winegeek (log)

[makanmakan]

We were there again on Thursday night.

Highlights were the grilled quail salad, pheasant scallopine, the risotto (of course ) and the red deer (another favourite now).

My new favourite cocktail is the Italian Job. Would be great for brunch too!!

Ahhhh, tis the season for Parkside again!

Thanks to Jeff for another entertaining night at the bar!

[Ling]

I was there for dinner last week with a few friends, so we got to taste a large portion of the menu. The kitchen sent out a dish of complimentary wild mushroom risotto, and that was my favourite dish of the evening. (I also had the soup and mini pie--very cute, kudos to the person who came up with that , the squab with foie, and the maple syrup pie with huckleberries.)