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Sicily Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations


Jeanne

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Ah, I just got a telephone call from my friend who is on the island of Formica, sipping marsala and gazing out at the ocean. But I have laryngitis so bad I can only whisper, and will have to wait to hear what he ate. He always has great stories, since he goes to Italy about six times a year.

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OK. Last year was our first trip to Italy, and this site was a terrific source for recommendations on where to eat, and even what to see. Well that trip was in Piedmont and Tuscany, which is probably a more reliable destination for great food.

This year we are on less of a "gastro tour", we are going for the same type of vacation we have enjoyed when island hopping in Greece (but avoiding this due to some kind of sports event this year :huh: )

We would like to eat well though. :smile:

So does anyone have any experience to pass along? I'm hoping the vast knowledge of this forum extends this far south.

Our itinerary takes us to Taormina and Cefalu on the main island, with a few nights each on Lipari and Panaera.

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I can't rtemember where we stayed and had dinner on Lipari but check out Hotel Raya in Panarea we stayed there for 4 nights last year and it was fantastic. They have a great selection of anti-pasti to tempt you while you have drinks before dinner. There really isn't anywhere else to have dinner on Panerea.

But I would recommend one of the other Aeolian Islands, Salina as an alternative to Lipari to stay at. My thread on eGullet

"Wine without friends, is like life without a witness"

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Taormina is stunningly beautiful, but the food, while good is nowhere near the best food on the island. Sicily is filled with marvellous food with great produce and magnificent seafood. Unfortunately, I don't have any pasrticularly strong recommendations for eating in Taormina and I've never been to Cefalu nor the islands. Good luck and enjoy.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Hi,

docsconz is right.. Taormina is not the best place for food - I am sure there are some good restaurants but I've never come across one yet -only average ones (then again I've only been there three four times as a passer by). Now as far as Cefalu is concerned I think the story is a bit better but I have no concrete suggestions - my rule of thumb is to start by avoiding anything that has a sign outside which says "turistic menu". We are really more familiar well the other side of sicily - Ragusa,Catania,Siracusa rather than Palermo.

However, something that I can suggest which is about 50 minutes down the road (the other side of Palermo when coming from Cefalu) is a little village called Sferracavallo. It is a fishing village and there is a bunch of fantastic restaurants there - only word of warning - they are not your "average" restaurant and not a lot of tourist visit them. They typically don't have a menu and not a lot of words are exchanged.

You just walk in, sit down and the food keeps coming and coming. We went there two years ago and it cost around 15 euro per person for antipasti, two primi, two secondi and some fruit and sweets. It was all fish-based, simple (rustic?) and excellent quality. Mind you the pricing is dynamic as well. Once done you go sit down with a "man" in a table in the corner and they make a decision on the spot about the cost. credits cards are NOT accepted.

We went to a reastaurant called L'Ancora. It is an unassuming place but once in you will not regret it. I realise it may be a bit far off from Cefalu but then again I think its a half-day trip you will not forget.:biggrin:

All the best,

Ronald.

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I agree, dining is hit or miss in Taormina.

We had a great meal at Al Duomo, including a piccolo frito misto of tiny fried fish (you eat them whole). The details of the rest of the meal are fuzzy - we were fantastically drunk by the end of the meal due to a generous Irish couple we hooked up with - but I remember it as one of the better meals I had there. We had the waiter bring us whatever he wanted to bring, so we ended up with dozens of little plates - eggplant in tomato sauce, squid, etc. Sit on the terrace and people watch on the square.

We had a great upscale dinner at Casa Grugno. I remember nice red snapper ravioli with tomato conserva and red pepper puree. Service was relaxed and attentive, and the deck upstairs was a gorgeous setting. (FYI after discussing this thread with my wife, she says this restaurant is called the Nautilus)

Take one night to go up to the next town up the hill (Castelmola?) and eating at the pizzeria at the very top of the mountain if you're staying for more than a couple nights. I believe it's called Restaurant Panoramico or some such thing. Decent pizza and pasta, with a local crowd. Worth going just to walk around the town and enjoy the great views.

Oh, and I had a nice sea urchin spaghetti at Gamberi Rosso for lunch (a pizzeria?). Nice and casual, not a lot of fancy stuff there. But a good vibe and a nice place to have a noon-time glass of wine.

La Giarra is the most high profile restaurant in Taormina, but I've heard that it's a bit overrated. I've also heard that it has held up over time, but..

Do NOT go to Il Cyclops. It's a tourist trap with lousy food. I can't believe what a lousy tutti di mare I had there. How can you not have fresh seafood so close to the ocean?

Frommer's seems to have a nice list of restaurants - I used it to refresh my two-year-old memories of my honeymoon..

Have fun,

Ian

Edited for my lousy italian

Edited by ianeccleston (log)
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Thanks guys. Great tips so far. Keep 'em coming!

Sounds like Duomo is a must.

Ian - thanks for all the tips and the link to Mario's site - We're huge fans of Babbo!

Alexander - glad you enjoyed the Hotel Raya - that is our hotel in Panaera! I enjoyed reading your other thread. Hope I get such good photos.

Ronald that sounds like an excellent side trip - Sferracavallo. We wont have a car this trip - do you happen to know if it is reachable by bus or train? It sounds like our kind of place.

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  • 2 months later...

Sicily – October 2004 – A golden oldie trip.

First off, thanks to you all for your help and ideas – the Italy site is great!

We were on our third trip to Sicily so we hit the high spots touristically speaking and ate largely where our cranky chauffeur stopped. Although we had the Michelin Green and Red Guides, the Rough Guide, (we found the Rough Guide to be most useful for leads In out of the way places as well as a general tour guide), L’Espresso, Gambera Rosso, Fodor, Plotkin, and the National Geographic, as eGulleteers know, there are not a lot of food recommendations available for those on the road. For what it’s worth, here is some feedback for future voyageurs (NB. We, as always, had a rental car and thus were not governed by city limits):

Primafile in Terrasini (at the end of the southern runway of the Palermo airport but kilometers away) where we had an incredible seafood salad, pasta Trapanese and pasta with clams. Bill = 55 E. (Our plane was late, but they were still serving at 3PM)

Rist. Monte San Giuliano in Erice which was touted in the NYTimes of October 3rd 2004 for Sicilian couscous (not harissa, lamb, chicken, zuccini-based as we are used to in the hexagon; but a different browner/bigger couscous grain, seafood ingredients and dense tomato based soup). Bill = 55 E for 2 at dinner.

Da Bruno aka Africa in Selinute where we had locally caught fresh fish grilled to perfection; bill = 39 E for lunch.

Kokalos in Agrigento where we had pizza (fresh funghi, porcini and other mushrooms). Bill = 29 E for dinner. (We were told that ‘locals’ frequent this large restaurant, but we were impressed by the large (and noisy) groups dining there.)

Trattoria Templi in Agrigento as well where we had (once again) superior fresh grilled fish = 61.50 E for lunch.

Rosemarie Tasca d’Almerita’s B&B on the Regalali Estate, deep in the vineyards, where we went from Sicilian amuse-gueules, to antipasti, to cherrio-shaped pasta with ragu, to tightly wrapped sausage and baby tomatoes, to fruit and pastries with accompanying aperitifs, wines, dessert wine and grappa. Fabulous. 160 E for 2 for B&B and dinner. (contact via email: rostascalm@hotmail.com)

Al Cordoba in Aidone, where they had none of the dishes we wanted from the menu and the wait-ladies were bored & the music too loud. Bill = 46 E for lunch.

Eremo della Giubiliana outside Ragusa, an elegant place that is listed as an agriturismo but is more like a paradore/posada, where we had dinner for 46 E with a fava bean soup, rabbit, stuffed foccacia and pork. (the accommodations were OK but very pricey: 240E)

After a horrible lunch with hoards of flies around the outdoor table in Noto at Il Griglio, for 30 E, but better left forgotten, my wife Colette and I went down the hill from the Duomo to the Corrado Contanzo for a spot of gelato; ordered them plus a cannoli, coffee and a grappa and sat down only to discover that the Scarlet Pimpernel of Food, none other than our old mentor R.W. (Johnnie) Apple, had been there first (NYT Dec 22, 1999). I’ve got to give it to him (and Betsey) it was everything he said it was. Cost = 11.70 E for a lot.

That night we stayed at another very nice new & modern agriturismo, La Percola, outside Sicacusa where we made the mistake of eating the 22 E meal with watery wine and mystery meat, never again! We should have ‘unreserved’ when we saw the chef saunter in at 6PM with a gallon jug of wine. (To get a pleasant room on the 2nd floor, reserve ahead)

Don Camillo (Siracusa), one of the two Michelin two-forkers in Ortigia delivered with good cozze, gnocchi and swordfish = 61 E. (We enjoyed yet another Regalali wine with this meal.)

That night, we went to a local (10 km or so away in Belvedere) pizzeria, a huge place with an entirely local clientele and very very respectable food La Frateria; bill = 28.10 E. There seem to be a number of B&B places in the area and the Siracusa tourist office has a brochure that lists them.)

Finally, not to be left out or glossed over was our “last meal” before our (fine and very reasonably priced) Volare flight back to Parigi; we ate at the airport self-service and it was not bad at all for steam-table food = 30.30 E.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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Nice summary. Thanks. I enjoyed the Eramo. It is pricey but nice. The food was good too.

Which were your absolute favorites?

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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John,

great to hear you had a good time.

I was considering travelling to Sicily again next spring; after reading your post I decided I just have to.

Could you tell us a bit more about Costanzo?

Il Forno: eating, drinking, baking... mostly side effect free. Italian food from an Italian kitchen.
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John,

great to hear you had a good time.

I was considering travelling to Sicily again next spring; after reading your post I decided I just have to.

Could you tell us a bit more about Costanzo?

I'm not sure what to say. It's a Gelateria/Patiserrie with what Apple thinks (and I agree) is gelati as good as they get and other goodies also good, eg almonds, canelli. I do not have the Apple article in the NYT but I'm sure you can get it from the archives for $3 or 4. It tells the whole story of the Costanzos and other places nearby. Is there something else you wanted (oh, its just off the Duomo square, actually visable from the Duomo steps).

If you go to Sicily I would not miss Palermo; we did this time mainly because I'd recently spent a week there. But the food and museums are tops.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I'm not sure what to say.  It's a Gelateria/Patiserrie with what Apple thinks (and I agree) is gelati as good as they get and other goodies also good, eg almonds, canelli.  I do not have the Apple article in the NYT but I'm sure you can get it from the archives for $3 or 4.  It tells the whole story of the Costanzos and other places nearby.  Is there something else you wanted (oh, its just off the Duomo square, actually visable from the Duomo steps).

If you go to Sicily I would not miss Palermo; we did this time mainly because I'd recently spent a week there.  But the food and museums are tops.

John, thanks. I'll look for the article in the NYT archive.

I think Palermo is great too, but I have been there a few times, while I always missed, for one reason or another, the SE corner of the island between Ragusa and Siracusa, so probably my next visit will concentrate on that area. I'll make a note of your tips :smile: .

Il Forno: eating, drinking, baking... mostly side effect free. Italian food from an Italian kitchen.
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Re: Corrado Constanza - Have you seen the entry about the man and the shop in Fred Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveler ? It's a wonderful writeup that made Noto a must-visit on our first trip to Sicily 8 yrs ago. Recently I'm sure I read somewhere that Mr. Costanzo died in the past year. Hope I'm not spreading false rumors!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

a few more reccomendations to add to the mix especially with regards to the area of Ragusa, Siracusa

First of Caffe Sicilia in Noto, where Corrado Assenza offers an interesting selections of sweet wines and cheese combinations. Also some great granita (but not this time of the year!). I am guessing that the Corrado Contanzo mentioned earlier is probably Assenza... but I may be wrong.

A bit off the usual track but Palazzolo Acreide is just stunning (about 30 minutes from Noto) and they have what is possibly the best cannoli in a place called Corsino. Well worth the trip just for that!

On the way towards Pozallo try the Poseidon restaurant. Unpretentious, just for locals, no fancy decor. But the best frutta di mare pizza you will have in the area and excellent value to (4 people, a bottle of white wine and it came to 35 euro). Also try their suppa di cozze - fantastic. In Pozzalo try the icecream from LunaRossa - again no fancy things around, just for locals but excellent.

In Modica just wonder round the centre and try the various chocolates and chocolate type sweets. Most offer tasters.

In Ragusa Locanda Don Serafino is usually very good and then there is always Ciccio Sultano at Il Duomo of which I talked here before.

Hope this helps a bit,

Ronald.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi all. The loooong zucchini in the photo from the market are a variety we've fallen in love with.

Look for "zucchetta rampicante." You can get seeds. I'm fairly certain the ones in the photo are the ones we've grown for three years now. They are extremely tender, think-skinned and almost buttery. I've also seen them (or something very similar) listed as "zucchetta trombocino," although these (one time) turned out to be a darker, less-tasty variety. Am I confusing anyone? In this year's picture-laced catalogue, the trombocino variety look light, like rampicante.

Try them.

Cheers

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  • 5 months later...

some friends and I are spending a week in Sicily in October - so have resurrected this thread?

We'll be travelling round - at the moment the itinerary is Palermo-Agrigento - Siracusa - Taormina - Palermo.

Does anyone have up to date recommendations at all? - or does everything written above still apply?

Thanks

Yin

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  • 6 months later...

Imagine you were preparing for 14-20 days exploring parts of eastern Sicily using public transportation only, and perhaps wizzing through Palermo... then imagine your travel companion has to curtail the trip to just 7-9 days... :hmmm::sad:

Where would you go/what would you do to maximise gastronomic interest/enjoyment on such an abbreviated trip? Remember, public transport only, so agroturismos are difficult. Possible bases would be Catania, Siracusa, Taormina and/or Palermo. Seafood is *not* our main interest.

-- lamington a.k.a. Duncan Markham

The Gastronomer's Bookshelf - collaborative book reviews about all things food and wine

Syrup & Tang - candid commentary and flavourful fancies

"It's healthy. It's cake. It's chocolate cake."

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Unfortunately I have not spent any time in Catania so I can not completely speak to your query. Taormina is the most beautiful spot, but perhaps the least interesting culinarily. Siracusa is fascinating and not far from Modica and Noto- two towns that would be musts if you are that close, especially if you are not interested in seafood. I would say that southeastern Sicily is perhaps the most interesting area culinarily that you mentioned, but don't sell Palermo short. It is a shame though that you aren't interested in seafood as Sicily has some of the best around, especially along the coasts.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I went to Sicily in 2004 and had an absolutely fabulous time. The people, the sights, the food… Wow! We spent 10 days driving west from Palermo around the coast until we ended up in Taormina.

My favorite town was Erice in the mountains along the West Coast. Especially since I discovered quite by accident the pasticceria of Maria Grammaico, of whom I had never heard. But that's another story.

Since you're not going that way, I have to agree with Doc about Siracusa being a good culinary destination. My partner and I stayed at the Hotel Gran Bretagna on Ortygia, and the staff recommended to us a trattoria whose name I can't quite recall. I'm still looking for it and will post if I can find it. Ha! I found it in an old email: Trattoria Cordari on Via Cordari.

Anyway, we went looking for this place and turned down a short narrow street. We came out the other end but did not see the restaurant. So we backtracked and found what looked like a closed restaurant. No lights in front, no sign, but tables set for service. As we are eating early, we discovered that 8:30pm is early in Italy, there are no customers. We tried the door and it was unlocked so we entered.

In the back seated at an imposing desk was a smartly dressed matronly woman, "La Signora." From here, she can keep an eye on everything. She motioned for us to sit wherever we wanted. Neither of us spoke Italian, so this was going to be interesting.

After we were seated she approached us. "yabi-da, yabi-da, yabi-da, ANTIPASTI, yada, yada," she said, making a circular motion with her finger over the table.

Well, we recognized the word "Antipasti" so we nodded our head "Yes."

"Bene!" she declared, nodding her head as if to say "You've made a wise decision."

Well a few minutes later, plate after plate after plate full of various kinds of antipasti arrived. The table was completely covered! Very fresh simple preparations bursting with flavor: Deep fried sardines (don't snicker, these are fresh sardines that in no way resemble canned), marinated shrimp, anchovies swimming in olive oil and aromatic spices, red bell peppers with bread crumbs and cheese, squid salad, sautéed crab cakes, baked stuffed mussels, etc.

"Mangia Tutti!" "Eat Everything!" her finger, and an eyebrow, raised as if in warning. We did our best to polish off all of this food and did a pretty good job between the two of us. By the time we finished we were as stuffed as the mussels we had just consumed. It simply wasn't possible to continue with the requisite primi platti and secundi, 2nd and 3rd courses.

But evidently not too stuffed to eat dessert. When she came to ask what we wanted next, we said only "dolci." A mild flicker of disappointment flashed across her face, resigning herself to the fact that foreigners just don't know how to eat well.

She explained the dessert list and because it was something we recognized, we chose "sorbetto limone" or "lemon sorbet." It arrived in an enormous frozen lemon shell; very elegant and the creamiest and tastiest sorbet that I've ever eaten. I'm not kidding. I've never tasted such perfectly balanced sorbet. I don't know what kind of lemons those were but if I could get them in the U.S. I'd be making some sorbet right about now.

I'm sorry that you're not a fan of seafood, but I'm sure you'll find lots of wonderful food wherever you go.

Buona Fortuna!

John DePaula
formerly of DePaula Confections
Hand-crafted artisanal chocolates & gourmet confections - …Because Pleasure Matters…
--------------------
When asked “What are the secrets of good cooking? Escoffier replied, “There are three: butter, butter and butter.”

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Thanks John and John, both for encouragement and enthusiasm. I suspect Palermo is just pushing the envelope a bit within the time available :sad: Perhaps I could add Modica (or Ragusa?) as a base for two days, also making the sights of Piazza Armerina a little closer (yet to check the transport logistics for that combo).

-- lamington a.k.a. Duncan Markham

The Gastronomer's Bookshelf - collaborative book reviews about all things food and wine

Syrup & Tang - candid commentary and flavourful fancies

"It's healthy. It's cake. It's chocolate cake."

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I spent a couple of weeks in Sicily a month ago. IMO, Siracusa is the standout. There is a good market in Ortigia daily. And a wonderful historical museum in the main part of town.

Visited Taormina once. I'm leery of anyplace where every other store sells jewelry. It reminded me of Portofino. Lots of shallow money.

Noto is a living museum of Baroque architecture. Worth the visit.

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Check out the Hotel Gutkowski on Ortygia in Siracusa - good value, great location. Look at "lovesicily" web site. Katia and Ronald used to post here. You could search back. They give suggestions about south east Sicily. We stayed at the Casa Albergo Garibaldi in Modica that they used to recommend,(http://www.casalbergogaribaldi.it/index.htm)and loved it. Sicily is fabulous. When are you going? (P.S. We are travelling to Australia for 10 days mid May, flying in and out of Melbourne. Any suggestions?)

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Thanks DaleJ, and MMerrill (I've PMed you).

Heading to Sicily in early October. Looks like Catania will be a base for a lot of sightseeing trips, even though few people seem to have pleasant things to say about the city itself, and then a few days in Siracusa/Ortigia (or at the Limoneto agroturismo), and then a few days using Modica as a base for a few trips and eating.

-- lamington a.k.a. Duncan Markham

The Gastronomer's Bookshelf - collaborative book reviews about all things food and wine

Syrup & Tang - candid commentary and flavourful fancies

"It's healthy. It's cake. It's chocolate cake."

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Sounds like fun. I still suggest you at least try the tuna or swordfish depending on what is in season and fresh.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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