StarChefs International Chefs Congress

[ronnie_suburban]

Doc, Doc, Doc . . . you've outdone yourself! And for you, that's no easy task. Thanks for bringing this event 'home' for the rest of us. It's greatly appreciated.

=R=

[docsconz]

Doc, Doc, Doc . . . you've outdone yourself!  And for you, that's no easy task.  Thanks for bringing this event 'home' for the rest of us.  It's greatly appreciated.

=R=

←

Thanks, Ronnie. It's been fun, but a race against time as I have to return to work on Monday.

Somehow, I missed a particularly cool photo:

Norman Van Aken and Susur Lee, two masters of different areas of Fusion cooking. I have not yet had the pleasure of experiencing Van Aken's cooking, but was thrilled with Susur's on a visit to Toronto in 2003.

[docsconz]

Patricia Quintana - Chiles en Escabeche

Patricia Quintana of Izote is a legend of Alta Cucina Mexicana.

Chef Quintana talked about ingredients in Mexican cuisine, particularly chiles and provided some historical context for that cuisine. She and her assistant demonstrated making chiles in escabeche using anchos that were pickled and then stuffed with guacomole.

Michael Harlan Turk in on the action

Chiles in Escabeche Stuffed with Guacomole

Chef Quintana finishing up.

[docsconz]

Susur Lee - Traditional Chinese Steaming Using Unusual Spices

I have already introduced Susur Lee, a uniquely creative chef based in Toronto.

Susur and his assistant preparing the mis-en-place for their demonstration.

Chef Lee and his assistant were supposed to demonstrate traditional Chinese fish-steaming techniques, but as a result of one of the few technical glitches of the Congress, the actual cooking of the fish had to be completed off-stage.

Chef Lee finished the remainder of his Cantonese steamed fish on stage.

Cantonese Steamed Fish - this dish utilized traditional spices such as ginger, garlic, shallots, orange zest, coriander, red chile, soy sauce, sesame oil and fermented black beans.

[docsconz]

Patricia Yeo - The Nuances of Smoking with Tea

Unfortunately, this was one presentation that I had to miss. I would appreciate any input on the demonstration of this talented chef.

[docsconz]

Ken Oringer - Inventive Preparations of Unusual Ingredients

Ken Oringer has been one of the most creative young chefs in the US for a surprising amount of time given his apparent youth. I personally know some very talented people who have come out of his kitchen, a number of whom are eGullet members. It is no surprise that they too are extremely creative. I very much enjoyed my meal at Clio this past summer with my son. Chef Oringer had just been married the week before so I missed him then. I almost missed him again this time as I was delayed getting back from my personal obligation, but did get to see the majority of his very fascinating demonstration using ingredients like dried shark fin, dried scallops and pico roca barnacles. In the accompanying Congress program Chef Oringer lists his favorite ingredient of the moment aas "Grains of paradise", a sweet, flowery and spicy African pepper that is white on the inside and black on the outside.

Their main preparation was a Shark Fin Hot Pot using reconstituted shark fin and dried scallops that were smoked for additional complexity before their addition to the bouillon. The dish is finished with king crab legs, foie gras and black truffle amongst other ingredients.

Though shark fin is a highly prized ingredient in Chinese kitchens it is used rarely in western kitchens. Chef Oringer discussed at length his team's trials in figuring out how to use it and reconstitute it succesfully. For this dish they use a pressure cooker.

Chef Oringer also discussed the use of the pico roca barnacle, a large creature for a barnacle unlike any other I have seen. For example, these are totally different from the Spanish and Portuguese percebes. Has anyone here any experience using or eating these? If so, please share.

Edited September 23, 2006 by docsconz (log)

[Pan]

John, was there much discussion of the imporance of sustainable aquaculture at the congress? I don't have a problem with foie gras as long as the geese and ducks aren't treated inhumanely, but I do have a major problem with sharks' fins, because the whole shark isn't used and so many sharks are killed that I understand that it has been threatening their population.

[docsconz]

John, was there much discussion of the imporance of sustainable aquaculture at the congress? I don't have a problem with foie gras as long as the geese and ducks aren't treated inhumanely, but I do have a major problem with sharks' fins, because the whole shark isn't used and so many sharks are killed that I understand that it has been threatening their population.

←

There was a whole topic devoted to sustainability and the offal discussion focused on using the entire animal as one might imagine given the presence of Fergus Henderson and the title of his book. I am a little concerned about the shark fin situation as well, though I was reassured by the apparent difficulty of adapting that particular ingredient into western kitchens. I would hate to see it become an even more sought after item than it already is. The specific question did not come up in this context though.

[Pan]

I'm sure the offal discussion was fun. I know you and I share an appreciation of offal.

[docsconz]

I'm sure the offal discussion was fun. I know you and I share an appreciation of offal.

←

It was fun, especially that in addition to being acknowledged experts in the area, the three were also very good and entertaining speakers.

I will try just about any kind of offal at least once if I know that it is coming from hands familiar with its preparation. Obviously there are some kinds that I prefer more than others with foie gras and sweetbreads at the top of the list. I have also very much enjoyed preparations of pig's trotters, chicken feet, pig's blood (sanguinaccio), tripe and other offal. One specific item that I have yet to try that the three were waxing eloquent over was pig tail.

[Louisa Chu]

doc - it was so good to finally meet you in person!

I've had Fergus Henderson's crispy pigtail and roasted marrow bone - with the essential parsley salad, Tony's infamous Death Row Meal. When you fall savagely on those delicious, truly primal cuts, you wonder far at the back of your mind why people need to be convinced this stuff is so good.

I was at the offal discussion too and later did Chris Cosentino's tripe hands-on. He made his fantastic signature Shaved Marinated Tripe Salad with New Potatoes and Parsley - the recipe is on his terrific site, Offal Good.

Being Chinese and working in France I've eaten a lot of tripe in various forms, but Chris introduced something new to me: organic, unbleached tripe. Did you know that tripe is actually bleached in bleach - like as in Clorox bleach? Chris's tripe dish had a delicate aroma yet deep flavor - with that distinctive silky and gelatinous crunch.

[H. du Bois]

Doc, you're living my dream vacation.

Thank you so much for the photos and reportage - I feel like I'm there (and as there's where I'd like to be, there's a very nice place indeed).

[docsconz]

doc - it was so good to finally meet you in person!

I've had Fergus Henderson's crispy pigtail and roasted marrow bone - with the essential parsley salad, Tony's infamous Death Row Meal. When you fall savagely on those delicious, truly primal cuts, you wonder far at the back of your mind why people need to be convinced this stuff is so good.

I was at the offal discussion too and later did Chris Cosentino's tripe hands-on. He made his fantastic signature Shaved Marinated Tripe Salad with New Potatoes and Parsley - the recipe is on his terrific site, Offal Good.

Being Chinese and working in France I've eaten a lot of tripe in various forms, but Chris introduced something new to me: organic, unbleached tripe. Did you know that tripe is actually bleached in bleach - like as in Clorox bleach? Chris's tripe dish had a delicate aroma yet deep flavor - with that distinctive silky and gelatinous crunch.

←

Louisa, I too enjoyed finally meeting you. The hands-on workshops must have been fun. I didn't get a chance to attend any of them as they were offered simultaneous to the demonstrations.

There was a foie gras workshop, " Foie Gras: From Production to the Plate." with Izzy Yanay of Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Joel Antunes of Joel that looked pretty appealing as well.

Outside of the realm of offal David Myers of Sona did one on ""The Art of Presentation," Pichet Ong of P*Ong had one on "Working with Tapioca" and Lee Gross of M Cafe de Chaya on "Culinary Yin and yang: Vegan Charcuterie and the Order of the Universe"

In addition to the Hands-on Workshops the Congress provided Chef Career Counseling with Chefs Patricia Quintana, Wylie Dufresne, Todd Gray, Tadaashi Ono, Waldy Malouf, Norman van Aken, and Traci Des Jardins; Industry Seminars with Adam Block on "The Art of the Deal", John Egnor on "Kitchen Design with Operaytions in Mind", a Panel including Susan Ungaro, Mitchell Davis, Claudia Karach and Izabela Wojcik on "Inside the James Beard Foundation: Its Mission, Awards and Programs", Phillip Baltz on "The Value of Public Relations" and Linda Pelaccio on "Making the Media Work for You: How to Talk to the Press".

Wine and Beverage Seminars were held by Adrian Murcia of Chantarelle on "Food-Loving Tempranillo" and Bart Vandaele of Belga Cafe on "Pairing Belgian Beer with Food"

I would love to hear what these were like from anyone who attended any of these events. If there was a flaw with this program it was that there was so much to experience and not enough time in which to do it all.

[matthewj]

I came with Joel and helped him execute the Foie gras Demo. From what I could see. the Star chefs was done really really well. Since I was in contact with all the star chefs operators, I thought they were more than helpful, and it was very organized especially since the president was in town, so I believe that may have thrown a monkey in the works. My only comment was maybe the next year the workshops could be on the first floor, more accessible to everyone. Maybe they could not charge for the work shops, that way everyone could be able to interact.

The workshop, I believe was not as interactive as it should of been. Maybe that was our fault, it is difficult to include people when foie gras is the topic, it is not exactly hands on.

Also i wish that the venue was closer to the hotel it was murder getting all the mise en place there. I thought all the after events were very good as well. Hats off to the organizers it was unreal.

[docsconz]

I came with Joel and helped him execute the Foie gras Demo.  From what I could see. the Star chefs was done really really well.  Since I was in contact with all the star chefs operators, I thought they were more  than helpful, and it was very organized especially since the president was in town, so I believe that may have thrown a monkey in the works.    My only comment was maybe the next year the workshops could be on the first floor, more accessible to everyone.  Maybe they could not charge for the work shops, that way everyone could be able to interact. 

The workshop, I believe was not as interactive as it should of been.  Maybe that was our fault, it is difficult  to include people when foie gras is the topic, it is not exactly hands on.

Also i wish that the venue was closer to the hotel it was murder getting all the mise en place there.  I thought all the after events were very good as well. Hats off to the organizers it was unreal.

←

Matthew, thanks for your thoughts. My understanding is that the event will be in a different location in NYC next year, still to be determined. For my purposes, I thought the location was good for transportation purposes (I was staying in the Upper West Side and it was an easy subway ride), but though the size of the auditorium was good, the layout of the rest of it was a little confusing. I never did try to venture out to the workshops. The biggest problem for me, given that I was running around a lot with my camera was that the AC did not work very well and it was hot as an oven in there. In fact, at one point, one of the live mikes caught one of the assistants commenting about that just offstage

[docsconz]

Frederic Bau

The Chocolate Cuisine - Discover Savory Chocolate

While the AC was a problem that can be remedied, one other issue that is probably inherent to this type of program is the big tease of watching all these incredible looking dishes being made that one just knows are wonderful, but can't be tasted, because of the scale that would be necessary for production. Thanks to Frederic Bau of L'Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona in Tain L'Hermitage, that would not be the case with this presentation.

Chef Bau brought samples of one of the dishes he would create on stage.

Pascal Barbot and his assistant enjoying their colleague's creation.

Chef Barbot organizing samples for the rest of the kitchen staff. The remainder were brought to the rear of the auditorium and passed out to the Conference attendees. The dish that incorporated his newest chocolate creation, Xocopili, a blend of Venezuelan 72% cacao chocolate, spices and salt with tomato water gelatin/piquillo peppers, shredded crab with chorizo"fumet" and crispy paprika noodles, was fabulous.

Chef Bau started with a brief discussion of using chocolate as a main ingredient in savory cooking. Peter Elliot is looking at Bau's book, recently translated into English, called Chocolate Fusion. The book is entirely about using chocolate in savory cooking as a centerpiece to the dishes rather than just as a finishing accent. If the crab dish is any indication, I am sold. The book, by the way, is beautiful.

Chef Bau crumbling some crispy paprika noodles into the bottom of the glass bowl.

Chef Bau picking up and showing a piece of the tomato water gelatin with piquillo peppers that he layers on top of the crumbled fried noodles.

Shredded crab meat with lemon juice is sandwiched between the gelatin piece and another.

Chef Bau spoons a quenelle of a whipped chocolate ganache "chantilly" of crab and chorizo fumet atop the top gelatin layer.

He topped the dish with alfalfa sprouts, a little espalette pepper and a noodle crisp.

Bau also demonstrated his Original BobBons...of Young Drome Guinea Fowl in Chocolate Chaud-Froid, Shiso, Dill and Tahitian Vanilla. Peter Elliot certainly appeared to enjoy his sample!

[docsconz]

Jose Andres - Reinventing American Classics

It is easy to see why Jose Andres has a successful cooking show in Spain. It is also easy to see why he is a successful chef, restauranteur and businessman. He is a man with great personality and presence. At a time when most of the attendees were beginning to drag after a very full, long day, he had everyone eating out of his hand.

Backstage preparations.

Onstage preparations.

Chef Andres opened with an explanation of how he views the process of re-inventing dishes by taking the familiar, completely altering it into new components while retaining the familiar flavor. This incorporates the pleasure of surprise along with the comfort of familiarity.

The first demonstration of his team, which consisted of himself and minibar chefs Katsuya Fukushima and Ruben Garcia was of "Corn on the Cob".

The dish incorporated a subtle element of smokiness by using a very small smoker.

The dish uses a variety of unusual ingredients including young corn plant shoots.

Working on and plating the final dish.

Here is a photo of the dish from my meal at minibar this past May.

My view of Chef Andres' espuma! see this post for an alternate and better view.

Chef Andres demonstrating how to make a mousse out of just about anything.

The mousse was part of his new New England Clam Chowder.

The "chowder" from my minibar dinner.

Working towards "An Organized Caesar Salad".

Sfericos of Caesar Slad dressing

Chef demonstrates the concept of the "sferico"

The finished product from my minibar dinner.

Venturing away from reinventing classic dishes, this was a live demonstration of a technique similar to what Albert Adria showed on video earlier in the day when he made the head for his "colibri".

Once again, from my minibar dinner, the "Olive Oil Bon-Bon".

An explanation of his "Lightbulb of Flavor"

This ended the first day of the Congress for me. Many of the chefs and a few lucky others went to have dinner prepared by Paul Liebrandt at Butter. Though I tried to get a spot for myself and a guest, it was fully booked. I toyed with the idea of attending an after-party at the Hotel QT, but I was exhausted and decided to save my energy for the following day (and night).

[docsconz]

Funny thing - prior to Pascal Barbot's demonstration I had neither seen nor heard of a "pineapple tomato." Wouldn't you know that a local farmer had some at my local Farmers Market yesterday. Of course I bought a couple. I used one to make a salad with fresh mozzarella and arugula. The tomato, beautiful as it was, was a little bland and needed some salt and acid to bring out its flavor. I used Acetaia del Cristo Cilegio Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena for the acid.

I used the other tomato tonight to make a salad to go over some grilled veal chops. Tonight's tomato had more inherent flavor.

Because of their relatively low seed and water content I would think they would be interesting used in a sauce.

[tan319]

Not that there hasn't been alot but, does anyone have any more reports, etc.?

Herme, Mason, Dufresne, etc.?

Thanks in advance

[docsconz]

Not that there hasn't been alot but, does anyone have any more reports, etc.?

Herme, Mason, Dufresne, etc.?

Thanks in advance

←

I too welcome any additional reports, comments, anecdotes or photos in relation to this event. In the meantime, I am still working on the second day's proceedings. Because of this pre-arranged meal I had to the beginning of the afternoon session including (regretably) Pierre Herme, Masaharu Morimoto, Josh deChellis and Wylie Dufresne. Fortunately, I still made it to Sam Mason, davide Scabin and Sergi Arola and then to The Rising Stars Revue and afterparty.

[tan319]

Thanks for the report that there IS more to come!

The layout you're doing, etc., is awesome.

Maybe Harlan Turk or somebody could fill in the Herme/Dufresne/Mason/etc. hole or anyone else for that matter.

I'm kind of surprised that there don't seem to be a lot of attendees posting in but....

Thanks for the great work, 'doc!

Edited September 26, 2006 by tan319 (log)

[lizard]

I could only come for day 2, and I'm sorry to have missed you. Will was pretty certain they would hold this at The Armory next year. Maybe next year there won't be another UN assembly gobbling up the hotel rooms...

I came with Joel and helped him execute the Foie gras Demo.  From what I could see. the Star chefs was done really really well.  Since I was in contact with all the star chefs operators, I thought they were more  than helpful, and it was very organized especially since the president was in town, so I believe that may have thrown a monkey in the works.    My only comment was maybe the next year the workshops could be on the first floor, more accessible to everyone.  Maybe they could not charge for the work shops, that way everyone could be able to interact. 

The workshop, I believe was not as interactive as it should of been.  Maybe that was our fault, it is difficult  to include people when foie gras is the topic, it is not exactly hands on.

Also i wish that the venue was closer to the hotel it was murder getting all the mise en place there.  I thought all the after events were very good as well. Hats off to the organizers it was unreal.

←

Matthew, thanks for your thoughts. My understanding is that the event will be in a different location in NYC next year, still to be determined. For my purposes, I thought the location was good for transportation purposes (I was staying in the Upper West Side and it was an easy subway ride), but though the size of the auditorium was good, the layout of the rest of it was a little confusing. I never did try to venture out to the workshops. The biggest problem for me, given that I was running around a lot with my camera was that the AC did not work very well and it was hot as an oven in there. In fact, at one point, one of the live mikes caught one of the assistants commenting about that just offstage

←

[godito]

What a great topic. How I wish I had gone to any of those demos. It's almos two years that I left NY, and more than ever I lnog to be back!

Thaks Doc for the report. I'm gonna try to make my way to Madrid Fusion this comming January... if I do, I will try to make my postings as entertaining as yours

[docsconz]

What a great topic. How I wish I had gone to any of those demos. It's almos two years that I left NY, and more than ever I lnog to be back!

Thaks Doc for the report. I'm gonna try to make my way to Madrid Fusion this comming January... if I do, I will try to make my postings as entertaining as yours

←

Thanks Godito. I hope you get there. I would love to read your reports from there (and anyone else as well). I wish that I could get there myself, but will be happy to read reports here on eGullet.

[Bond Girl]

Having just started a new job, I was unable to attend many events at the ICC. However, I did managed to make it to Pichet Ong's Asian pastry workshop on Wednesday afternoon. I figure with the number of culinary professionals in the workshop, I'd be safe from having to do any real work.

No such luck! The workshop was "hands on" and Pichet was serious about the "hands on" part.

"Why are you not at the table?" He asked me. I tried to hide behind Chris Santo of Stanton Social to no avail. Before I knew it, he was asking me how long it would take to peel all the water chestnuts in the bowl. I don't know. I've never cooked with water chestnuts. Thankfully, Elizabeth Faulkner, chef of san francisco's citizen cake took over and peeled those water chestnuts with great efficiency. My slacker attitude didn't go unnoticed. "Whenever you are ready you can take over," Pichet said. "Liz already knows how to do this, but you don't, so you should try it."

Luckily, the other attendees seemed genuinely interested in learning how to make Thai Jewels and the Kabocha tapioca. Pichet's easy going attitude made asking questions easy. I learned a new trick to peeling bananas without getting my fingers dirty ("There is nothing worse then a hard working chef with dirty fingernails") and how to make Kabocha tapioca. A hour later, making Thai jewels seemed to be in the realm of everyone's possibilities. Although it would be much easier to wait until P*Ong opens, and get him to make it for you.

Making Thai Jewels

putting Liz Faulkner to work