Israel's Wine Harvest Saved

[Swisskaese]

This is good news.

Cease fire saved the harvest

Good growing conditions are likely to offset the damage vineyards suffered during the war, said Hanan Bazak, chairman of the Israel Wine Board. He said he expected a 10 percent increase in Israel’s wine production this year, to 50,000 tons.

[JAZ]

I didn't realize there was that much wine production in Israel. Do they concentrate on any particular varietals? The article mentioned Chardonnay; what else is grown there?

[Daniel Rogov]

Best way I can respond to the question of which grape varieties are grown in Israel is to quote from the 2007 edition of my book "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines". Apologies for length.....

The last two decades have seen a major upheaval in the vineyards of Israel. Prior to 1985 the grapes planted were largely Carignan, Petite Sirah and Grenache for red and rosé wines, and Semillon, Emerald Riesling, and Colombard for whites. The wineries focused on light, white and often sweet wines, and only a handful of noble varieties were to be found in the country. The scene shifted dramatically with the development of vineyards planted with noble varieties, first on the Golan Heights, then in the Upper Galilee. Today, from the Negev Desert to the northernmost parts of the country, the focus is on many of those varieties that have proven themselves throughout the world.

Unlike many of the wine-growing regions, especially in Europe, Israel does not have any indigenous grapes that might be considered appropriate for making wine. The closest the country came to having its own grape was the introduc-tion of the Argaman grape, a cross between Souzao and Carignan grapes. Widely planted in the early 1980s, that ex-periment proved a fiasco; although the grape yielded wines deep in color, they lacked flavor, depth or body. In the list that follows, those grapes capable of producing quality wines in Israel are noted with an asterisk (*).

White Wine Grapes

Chardonnay: The grape that produces the great dry white wines of Burgundy and is indispensable to the production of Champagne. The most popular white wine grape in the world today, producing wines that can be oaked or un-oaked, and range in flavors from flinty-minerals to citrus, pineapple, tropical fruits and grapefruit, and in texture from minerally-crisp to creamy. (*)

Chenin Blanc: Originating in France’s central Loire Valley, this thin-skinned and acidic grape has a high sugar content that can give aromas and flavors of honey and damp straw. Within Israel the grape has largely produced wines best cate-gorized as ordinary, and often semi-dry.

Colombard: Known in Israel as French Colombard and pro-ducing mostly thin and acidic wines.

Emerald Riesling: A cross between the Muscadelle and Ries-ling grapes developed in California primarily for growth in warm climates, the grape produces mostly semi-dry wines of little interest.

Gewurztraminer: This grape originated in Germany, came to its glory in Alsace and has now been transplanted to many parts of the world. Capable of producing aromatic dry and sweet wines that are often typified by their softness and spici-ness, as well as distinctive aromas and flavors of litchis and rose petals. (*)

Muscat: There are many varieties of Muscat, the two most often found in Israel being the Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Canelli, both of which are capable of producing wines that range from the dry to the sweet and are almost always typified by their perfumed aromas.

Riesling: Sometimes known in Israel as Johannisberg Riesling, sometimes as White Riesling and sometimes simply at Ries-ling, this noble German variety has the potential to produce wines that although light in body and low in alcohol are highly flavored and capable of long aging. Typified by aromas and flavors of flowers, minerals, lime, and when aged, sometimes taking on a tempting petrol-like aroma. (*)

Sauvignon Blanc: At its best in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux for producing dry white wines, this successful transplant to Israel is capable of producing refreshing, sophisticated and distinctively aromatic and grassy wines, often best consumed in their youth. (*)

Semillon: Although this native French grape was used for many years in Israel to produce largely uninteresting semi-dry white wines, its susceptibility to noble rot is now being taken advantage of to produce sweet dessert wines with the distinc-tive bouquet and flavors of melon, fig and citrus. (*)

Traminette: A not overly exciting hybrid, a derivative of the Gewurztraminer grape, developed primarily for use in cold weather New York State and Canadian climates.

Viognier: The most recent white wine transplant to Israel, this grape produces the fascinating Condrieu wines of France’s Rhone Valley. Capable of producing aromatic but crisply dry whites and full-bodied whites, some of which have long aging potential. (*)

Red Wine Grapes

Argaman: An Israeli-inspired cross between Souzao and Carignan grapes. Possibly best categorized as the great local wine failure, producing wines of no interest. Many of the vineyards that were planted with Argaman continue to be uprooted to make room for more serious varieties.

Barbera: From Italy’s Piedmont region, this grape has the potential for producing wines that although light and fruity are capable of great charm. (*)

Cabernet Sauvignon: The most noble variety of Bordeaux, capable of producing superb wines, often blended with smaller amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The best wines from this grape are rich in color and tannins, and have complex aromas and depth of flavors, those often typified by blackcurrants, spices and cedar wood. At their best, intriguing and complex wines that profit from cellaring. (*)

Cabernet Franc: Less intense and softer than Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, most often destined to be blended with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but even on its own capable of produc-ing dramatically good, leafy, fruity and aromatic reds. (*)

Carignan: An old-timer on the Israeli scene, this originally Spanish grape produces largely dull and charmless wines. Still commonly planted within Israel but increasingly destined for distillation in the making of brandy and liqueurs. Several smaller wineries are, however, demonstrating that old-vine Carignan grapes, especially those in fields that have been un-watered for many years, can produce interesting and high quality wines.

Gamay: The well-known grape of France’s Beaujolais region, this fairly recent introduction to Israel is capable of producing light to medium-bodied wines of fragrance and charm, in-tended primarily for drinking in their youth. (*)

Grenache: Although this grape has done well in France’s Rhone Valley and Spain, it has not yielded sophisticated wines in Israel, most being somewhat pale, overripe and sweet in nature. Probably at its best for blending at this stage. Watch for future developments though.

Malbec: Well known in France’s Bordeaux, the Loire and Cahors, this grape is capable of producing dense, rich, tannic and spicy wines that are remarkably dark in color. (*)

Merlot: Softer, more supple and often less tannic than Caber-net Sauvignon, with which it is often blended, but capable of producing voluptuous, opulent, plummy wines of great inter-est. A grape that has proven popular on its own as it produces wines that are easier to drink and are approachable earlier than wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon. (*)

Nebbiolo: The grape from which the Barolo and Barbaresco wines of Italy’s Piedmont region are made. Still experimental in Israel but with the potential for producing perfumed, fruity and intense wines that are full-bodied, high in tannins, acidity and color, and have the potential for long-term cellaring. (*)

Petit Verdot: Planted only in small quantities and used in Is-rael as it is in Bordeaux, primarily for blending with other noble varieties to add acidity and balance. Capable on its own of producing a long-lived and tannic wine when ripe. (*)

Petite Sirah: Related only peripherally to the great Syrah grape, this grape at its best is capable of producing dark, tan-nic and well-balanced wines of great appeal and sophistica-tion, but that potential has been obtained only once or twice in Israel, the grape being used too often to produce mass-market wines that tend to be hot, tannic and without charm. A few small wineries manage to obtain excellent wines from this variety.

Pinot Noir: A relatively recent transplant to Israel, this grape, which is responsible for the great reds of Burgundy, is making a very good initial showing. At its best the grape is capable of producing smooth, rich and intricate wines of exquisite quali-ties, with flavors of cherries, wild berries and violets and, as they age, take on aromas and flavors of chocolate and game meat. Also used in Israel, as in the Champagne region of France, to blend with Chardonnay to make sparkling wines. (*)

Pinotage: A South African cross between Pinot Noir and Cin-sault, capable of being flavorful and powerful, yet soft and full, with a pleasing sweet finish and a lightly spicy overlay. (*)

Sangiovese: Italy’s most frequently planted variety, found in the simplest Chianti and most complex Brunello di Montal-cino wines, this is another grape recently introduced to Israel, showing fine early results with wines that are lively, fruity and full of charm. (*)

Syrah: Some believe that this grape originated in ancient Per-sia and was brought to France by the Romans, while others speculate that it is indigenous to France. Syrah found its first glory in France’s northern Rhone Valley, and then in Australia (where it is known as Shiraz). Capable of producing deep royal purple tannic wines that are full-bodied enough to be thought of as dense and powerful, but with excellent balance and complex aromas and flavors of plums, berries, currants, black pepper and chocolate. First results from this grape have been exciting and plantings are increasing dramatically. (*)

Tempranillo: The staple grape of Spain’s Rioja area, with re-cent plantings in Israel, this is a grape with the potential for producing long-lived complex and sophisticated wines typi-fied by aromas and flavors of black fruits, leather, tobacco and spices. (*)

Zinfandel: Zinfandel is not exactly new in Israel, but until recently the vines that had been planted were capable of producing only mediocre semi-dry blush wines. What is new are recently planted high-quality vines from California that offer the potential for producing full-bodied to massive wines, moderately to highly alcoholic, with generous tannins and the kind of warm berry flavors that typify these wines at their best. (*)

[Swisskaese]

I didn't realize there was that much wine production in Israel. Do they concentrate on any particular varietals? The article mentioned Chardonnay; what else is grown there?

←

If you are interested in Israeli wine, I would suggest getting a copy of Daniel's book. It introduced me to very nice boutique wineries here. Take a look at both of my eGullet foodblogs. In the first one, I featured Flam Winery, which produces some very good red wines. In my second blog, from a couple of weeks ago, I went to a wine tasting that featured the new wines and revamping of Carmel Winery.

[Merseymike]

Thankfully, apparently the Lebanese wine harvest has also been saved - and without making any political points Lebanese wine is rather better!

[Daniel Rogov]

MerseyMike,

I won't make any political points or pointed remarks but will ask if you've tasted some of Israel's better wines lately.... you might be in for some positive surprises.

Will also add that should anyone want to know a great deal about Lebanese wines read Michael Karam's Wines of Lebanon (2005 Saqi Press, ISBN 0-86356-598-0)

It might also surprise many to realize that quite a few Israeli and Lebanese winemakers get along rather splendidly. So, for that matter, do several of the wine critics of both nations.

[Swisskaese]

Thankfully, apparently the Lebanese wine harvest has also been saved - and without making any political points Lebanese wine is rather better!

←

Having nothing to do with politics, I would beg to disagree, but why don't you start a thread about Lebanese wines, for example Château Ksara, Lebanon's oldest wine label, and tell us why you think they are better.

I have had Lebanese wine in London.

Edited August 27, 2006 by Swisskaese (log)

[Daniel Rogov]

Indeed, although the importation of Lebanese wines is not allowed into Israel (nor are Israeli wines allowed to be imported into Lebanon), sophisticated wine drinkers in both countries have gotten to know each others' wines, those partly by tastings in London and partly by tastings in Tel Aviv, those wines making it to Tel Aviv and Beirut in valises as people return from trips abroad. More than this, winemakers from both countries meet regularly at VinExpo and other such venues and often visit each others booths, there to talk, to exchange information and do to tastings.

Within Israel there is nothing "secretive" at all about tastings of Lebanese wines. During the height of the war Andre Suidan, a well known wine lover and owner of one of Israel's best wine shops (in Haifa) held an Israeli-Lebanese Tasting for Peace at his shop and before that members of my own forum held an extensive tasting of Lebanese wines. My own cellar has wines from Musar, Kefraya, Ksara, Massaya, Wardy and Clos de Cana.

Edited August 27, 2006 by Daniel Rogov (log)

[jkonick]

I wish I had read this before I went to Israel... the wines I tried were not that great, although I didn't search that hard (I only got stuff from supermarkets, although with the advice of a local). I did try a muscat that I thought was pretty good. We were actually supposed to visit a winery, but that never happened. It does seem like Israel has a pretty big wine industry though.

And of course, the kosher wine I had on shabbat... well, I don't even need to talk about that

With info from this thread, I'll have to see if I can track down some good Israeli wine.

[Swisskaese]

There are a number of good boutique wineries here. Try and find wines from:

Amphorae

Flam

Saslove

Sea Horse

Soreq

Ella Valley

Yatir (joint venture between Carmel Wines and local growers) - this site seems to still be a work in progress

I also recommend trying the Carmel Single Vineyardwines that I tried in my foodblog a couple of weeks ago.

Edited August 28, 2006 by Swisskaese (log)

[bloviatrix]

Recanati has not been as lucky as Dalton. Some of the vineyards are occupied by the military.

[Swisskaese]

Recanati has not been as lucky as Dalton.  Some of the vineyards are occupied by the military.

←

Yes, they were hit hard. Here is an article about Recanati Winery:

Conflict threatens Israel's wine harvest

Eventhough they are suffering at the moment they are giving back to the community:

Yad Sarah

Buy Recanati wine and part of the money will be given to Yad Sarah. It is a volunteer social services organization. They are helping individuals and businesses in the North.

Edited August 31, 2006 by Swisskaese (log)

[Daniel Rogov]

Recanati has not been as lucky as Dalton.  Some of the vineyards are occupied by the military.

←

None of the vineyards of northern or southern Israel have been "occupied" by the army. The few tanks you've seen in photographs are there entirely as a preventive measure and have done absolutely minimal damage to the vineyards. I am quite certain that the army and the wineries are well aware that those tanks also offer wonderful photo-ops. Most of the tanks that remain in the north now are parked comfortably on the side of roads, protected by hillsides and do not interfere either with the vineyards or even the traffic.

Now it is true that life in Israel tends to have a black humor side to it. On any visit, for example to the wineries on the Golan (Golan Heights Winery, Bazelet ha Golan, etc) even in the most peaceful of times you will hear the constant sound of tank and mortar fire, that not because we're constantly at war but because there are military training zones in the area. I recall one year at a festival at the Golan Heights Winery that one visitor from the United States broke into a cold sweat every time he heard one of those tank cannons go off. A few good glasses of Katzrin red settled him down comfortably

[bloviatrix]

Recanati has not been as lucky as Dalton.  Some of the vineyards are occupied by the military.

←

None of the vineyards of northern or southern Israel have been "occupied" by the army. The few tanks you've seen in photographs are there entirely as a preventive measure and have done absolutely minimal damage to the vineyards. I am quite certain that the army and the wineries are well aware that those tanks also offer wonderful photo-ops. Most of the tanks that remain in the north now are parked comfortably on the side of roads, protected by hillsides and do not interfere either with the vineyards or even the traffic.

←

Occupied is probably the wrong tern, but the e-mail I received said as follows:

Some of Recanati vineyards are now sealed military zones and not accessible for harvesting.

[Daniel Rogov]

I'll agree that in some cases it might be wise to let the army know that you're coming, especially considering that much of the harvest is done in the hours of darkness. Even soldiers get nervous when they see guys running around the fields with sharp pruning shears late at night.

Harvest is now in full swing throughout the country including the entire Upper Galilee. Predictions are for a small but high quality harvest. No connection whatever between that and the war. Harvest is also now in full swing in Lebanon's Bakaa valley and the prediction there too is for small yields and high quality.