Basque Country Restaurants: Reviews & Recs

[estufarian]

You MUST go to Etxebarri. I have just come back from a trip to San Sebastian. I ate at Mugaritz, Arzak and Etxebarri, and Etxebarri has left the greatest lasting impression on me. I'm in the process of writing up reports.

GO!

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Keep the reports coming Andy!

I have reservations at all 3 between now and beginning of October. Seems I should make sure to find these places before the appointed time, to ensure I can locate them!

And I just don't have time for Akelare this trip - site of my all-time favourite meal 3 years ago.

[raisab]

I have been reading these threads, some quite a few years old, in search of restaurants for my upcoming trip in June. We will be staying in Laguardia a couple of days, San Sebastian an undertermined number as of yet, and are open to sggestions for another stopover or two.

I realize there is quite a bit of avant garde cooking going on in this area, but that is not what I am interested in. I like more traditional cooking. So far the only restaurant I have decided I need to go to is Etxeberri. Can those of you who are more familiar with this area help me out with suggestions? For both restaurants and possible a city I should stop in and spend a night or two? I will be there a total of 8 niights arriving June 10th. All your help is so kindly appreciated.

Edited March 12, 2007 by raisab (log)

[Sneakeater]

This isn't what you're looking for, and it's so obvious that it hardly bears saying (I mean, I know you know about it), but if you don't go to Arzak you'll regret it for the rest of your life.

[little ms foodie]

you are going to one of our favorite areas!!! I agree that Arzak is still a memory we are soooo happy to have but for really traditional food in San Sebastian look no further than pinchos hopping in Parte Vieja (old town). So much fun!! Casa Vergara, La Cepa and our favorite Ormazabel. The pinchos are truly little works of art! And we came to love the funny wine Txacoli (sp). Closer to the beach is Bar San Marcial which is also fantastic. For a nicer but still traditional meal we also loved the restaurant Kursaal. We each had a glass of sherry, shared a bottle of wine, app and 1st course split, each had an entree, dessert, coffee and after dinner drinks for 150E, I also heard that they have a lunch tasting menu that includes a glass of wine for something like 20E each!

Where are you staying in Laguardia?? This is the most beautiful little town! Will you be wine tasting? If so make reservations!!

We loved our dinner at Posada Mayor de Migueloa- great atmosphere and wonderful food and service.

You are heading to such an amazing area!!! Have fun!

[raisab]

Where are you staying in Laguardia?? This is the most beautiful little town! Will you be wine tasting? If so make reservations!!

We loved our dinner at Posada Mayor de Migueloa- great atmosphere and wonderful food and service.

You are heading to such an amazing area!!! Have fun!

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We are stayiong at Posada Mayor de Migueloa!

What wine tastings do you recommend? I know the Posada has some, but I haven't heard wonderful things about theirs.

[little ms foodie]

We made reservations and toured Riscal, Ysios and Ugarta. We also toured the one in Laguardia - the poet's one....Faustian or something- the tour was cool but the wine just so so. There is a little wine shop in town that stocks some amazing older vintages at very good prices so we bought a bunch from her.

[Rogelio]

Alameda in Fuenmayor is the best restaurant (classic) in the Laguardia area.

Take a look at this thread

In Axpe, the same little village as Etxebarri there is a lovely rural hotel with a very good restaurant serving fine traditional basque dishes, the name speaks for itself, where the silence is heard:

Mendi Goikoa

Barrio San Juan 33

48291 Axpe-Atxondo

Vizcay

tel: 94 6820833

fax: 94 6821136

E-mail: mendigoikoa@interbook.net

Also in San Sebastián, the not to miss tapas bar is Bergara, in the Gros area.

[malika]

In San Sebastian, I particularly enjoyed Gandarias for tapas (23 Calle 31 de Agosto, 34/943-426-362).

Are you skipping Bilbao? I had a great time there - it's a very accesible, friendly city, with great tapas bars.

Casa Nicolas in Tolosa is a traditional asador. Do you have a car? It's only about a half hour from San Seb. Great place for lunch - go there for the best steak you will ever have in your entire life. Really.

[vserna]

Kaia/Kai-Pe, Elkano, Iribar are great traditional grills for fine fish in Getaria, near San Sebastián.

In Rioja there's a great place, the Hostal Echaurren in beautiful Ezcaray, with not one but two restaurants: the superb traditional cooking of Marisa Paniego in one, the modern and brilliant dishes of her son Francis in the other!

Don't miss another classic restaurant in Rioja: El Rincón de Emilio, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

[raisab]

Kaia/Kai-Pe looks great as El Rincon de Emilio. Then so does Alameda and Mendi Goika.

Can someone suggest a stop between Laguardia and San Sebastian?

I am staying in Bilboa on the last night, which is a Sunday, so my options are probably limited.

Do Spaniards still take the big meal during the day (Almuerzo)? I remember living with my grandfather as a small child who was from Tenerife. We would eat our big meal at around 2PM, have a merienda about 6PM and Cena at 10PM. Is this still common? My family's customs changed when we moved to the US.

Edited March 14, 2007 by raisab (log)

[butterfly]

We would eat our big meal at around 2PM, have a merienda about 6PM and Cena at 10PM. Is this still common?  My family's customs changed when we moved to the US.

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Yes, that's exactly how it is. Though the midday meal is called comida, not almuerzo in some parts of Spain.

[podolski]

For the best Garlic Soup in Town (they also cook bull stew when available and horse kebab):

Gaizka

Calle Trueba, 4 - Tel. 943 32 24 11

My favorite Pintxos Bar with one of the best wine menus in Donosti:

El Lagar

Calle Zabaleta, 55 - www.el-lagar.net - Tel. 943 32 03 29

For Txuleta (in Astigarraga)

Restaurante Kako

Calle Mayor, 19 - Tel. 943 55 17 41