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Best "new" chef in Paris

AlexForbes

By AlexForbes
in France: Dining

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AlexForbes

AlexForbes

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I've been asked by an illustrious Brazilian mag to name the world's top 10 new chefs. By new, it means no Andoni, no Heston, no chef who is very well-known by Brazilian foodies.

I had to choose fast - Chicago's Homaro Cantu and Grant Achatz were easy choices, as were Spain's Joan Roca and Quique da Costa. When it came to thinking of a name from Paris I immediately came up with Barbot at l'Astrance: his rise has been meteoric and the restaurant now has 2 Michelin stars.

But then John Whiting, who knows all things Paris, told me: "I like Cyril Lalanne at La Cerisaie; William Ledeuil at Ze Kitchen Galerie or Clavel at Ribouldingue better.

Now you should also check out the folks that Le Fooding think are hot; Thierry Marx, Jean Chauvel at Magnolias, Yves Camdeborde, Anaki Aizpitarte etc; of these Chauvel is the star I think and is moving downtown soon (so it would be prescient of you in your article)."

So, who IS Paris's best "new" chef, the next Passard or Gagnaire?

Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

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John Talbott

John Talbott

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Posted
I've been asked by an illustrious Brazilian mag to name the world's top 10 new chefs. By new, it means no Andoni, no Heston, no chef who is very well-known by Brazilian foodies.

I had to choose fast - Chicago's Homaro Cantu and Grant Achatz were easy choices, as were Spain's Joan Roca and Quique da Costa. When it came to thinking of a name from Paris I immediately came up with Barbot at l'Astrance: his rise has been meteoric and the restaurant now has 2 Michelin stars.

But then John Whiting, who knows all things Paris, told me: "I like Cyril Lalanne at La Cerisaie; William Ledeuil at Ze Kitchen Galerie or Clavel at Ribouldingue better.

Now you should also check out the folks that Le Fooding think are hot; Thierry Marx, Jean Chauvel at Magnolias, Yves Camdeborde, Anaki Aizpitarte etc; of these Chauvel is the star I think and is moving downtown soon (so it would be prescient of you in your article)."

So, who IS Paris's best "new" chef, the next Passard or Gagnaire?

Alex - That's exactly what I not John Whiting said.

John Talbott

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raisab

raisab

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I've been asked by an illustrious Brazilian mag to name the world's top 10 new chefs. By new, it means no Andoni, no Heston, no chef who is very well-known by Brazilian foodies.

I had to choose fast - Chicago's Homaro Cantu and Grant Achatz were easy choices, as were Spain's Joan Roca and Quique da Costa. When it came to thinking of a name from Paris I immediately came up with Barbot at l'Astrance: his rise has been meteoric and the restaurant now has 2 Michelin stars.

But then John Whiting, who knows all things Paris, told me: "I like Cyril Lalanne at La Cerisaie; William Ledeuil at Ze Kitchen Galerie or Clavel at Ribouldingue better.

Now you should also check out the folks that Le Fooding think are hot; Thierry Marx, Jean Chauvel at Magnolias, Yves Camdeborde, Anaki Aizpitarte etc; of these Chauvel is the star I think and is moving downtown soon (so it would be prescient of you in your article)."

So, who IS Paris's best "new" chef, the next Passard or Gagnaire?

Alex - That's exactly what I not John Whiting said.

John, you guys are similar in apperance! :raz:

Paris is a mood...a longing you didn't know you had, until it was answered.

-An American in Paris

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gastrominator

gastrominator

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Chauvel IS the boss. His cuisine is excellent ostentatious, intrinsic, inventive french gastronomy. He'll surely get a second star in Paris.

After having spoken with his wife for quite some time about his egg-yolk risotto with fake-squid-ink caviar(which became a family discussion for days) amongst other things I am convinced that he thinks and lives 'cuisine' twenty-four hours a day.

Les Magnolias is tomorrow's Astrance, and far more.

Food glorious food, nothing quite like it...

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fresh_a

fresh_a

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Posted (edited)

Wow! I didn't know Thierry Marx had a restaurant in Paris! Where is it? Must be some super-insider place that only Brasilians know about...

Edited by fresh_a (log)

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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John Talbott

John Talbott

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Wow! I didn't know Thierry Marx had a restaurant in Paris! Where is it? Must be some super-insider place that only Brasilians know about...

Not to get too defensive about it, but to show I that I still remember my geography, Alex was quoting from a PM I, not John Whiting, sent her, in which she told me about the "top 10 chefs around the world" article project and I was giving her (again in a PM) some suggestions from the hexagon, including Paris. Thierry Marx, has by the way, been featured in Omnivore & "Le Fooding" events in Paris and Le Havre besides minding the store in Pauillac (I'm using the phrase figuratively; I know he doesn't have a store). In any case, I thought Alex would do well in her research to check out the folks currently held in high regard by Omnivore & "Le Fooding" and gave some examples off the top of my head.

But let's get back to her question.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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AlexForbes

AlexForbes

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Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea culpa. John (Talbott), I am SO SORRY to have mixed up the names. I meant to write Talbott, and ended up writing Whiting. Then I was gone for 2 days in Montréal, where I attended a fascinating workshop with Chicago's Grant Achatz, from Alinea (more on that later).

To all the others: I tried to explain in my original post that the magazine wanted chefs that would be considered new by Brazilian readers. That is, of course, a very relative thing. So, Culinista, Joan Roca IS new, in that sense. For some reason, Brazilians are very familiar with some great chefs (Blumenthal, Andoni, etc) and not familiar enough with other greats, such as Roca.

And this "top 10" list, as any other "top whatever", will be very subjective...

Gastrominator: is Chauvel's egg yolk risotto riceless, meaning little bits of yolk are made to resemble rice grains? Funny thing, I've been seeing more and more of these faux risottos.

Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

Official Website

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Champagne Sadie

Champagne Sadie

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Posted
Joan Roca has been cooking for over 20 years--does he count as "new"?

Took the words outta my mouth. :smile:

Jean Chauvel at Magnolias - I've been going here for 6 years, so hardly new. It also serves TOTALLY different food to L'Astrance. To call it "The next L'Astrance" is odd.

Camdeborde is an old hand.

Barbot perhaps could qualify, but once again, it's not like the place just opened - I've enjoyed the place for 5 years now.

If a foodie Brazilian has heard of Heston, they will have heard of the others - especially considering the internet. IMHO is patronising to think they don't.

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Ptipois

Ptipois

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Camdeborde is an old hand.

I wouldn't describe him that way. Though middle-aged and experienced, he's considered a "young chef" because of his refreshing, buoyant approach to cooking and the food world. It's not how old you are, it's what you bring. Ledeuil, for instance, may be actually younger than Camdeborde but I'd personally place him in the "old" category.

Chez Ptipois
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Champagne Sadie

Champagne Sadie

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Camdeborde is an old hand.

I wouldn't describe him that way. Though middle-aged and experienced, he's considered a "young chef" because of his refreshing, buoyant approach to cooking and the food world. It's not how old you are, it's what you bring. Ledeuil, for instance, may be actually younger than Camdeborde but I'd personally place him in the "old" category.

mmmm....I'm not so sure.

We'll agree to disagree. :wink::wink:

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Ptipois

Ptipois

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Posted (edited)
We'll agree to disagree. :wink:  :wink:

Of course. My opinion on Ledeuil is highly subjective and I'm not expecting everyone to agree with me. But describing Camdeborde as an "old hand" is quite a different matter. An "old hand" he is not. He certainly is amongst the young chefs (though not the youngest) who bring a breath of fresh air to French cuisine.

Edited by Ptipois (log)
Chez Ptipois
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Scottf

Scottf

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I'm sure in this instance "old hand" refers that Camdeborde has been around for a period of time inappropriate to be used in an article on "new" chefs, not against his personality or style of cuisine :smile:

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