Historical Origins of the Western Tasting Menu

[robyn]

I've read many times that the food of Japan is - at least in part - the foundation of the "tasting menu" as we know it in the west. After eating in Japan for almost three weeks - many different types of Japanese meals - and looking for common ground - I have my doubts.

There are many kinds of "formula" formal meals in Japan. Including sushi - tempura - kaiseki - etc. - each with its own structure (there are also less formal meals - frequently served as a whole in a "bento box" - but I'll stick with the formal meals for now).

These meals have a fair number of courses - but usually no more than you'd find in a classical French meal. Courses aren't tiny either (although they're small - you don't wind up with a huge amount of food no matter what you eat in Japan - unless you eat 2 meals ). Nothing like the 10-15-20 course "tiny bites" menus we've come to associate with the concept of "tasting menu" in the west. Even at a sushi restaurant - you traditionally get two pieces in each course - not one. Also - each type of meal tends to have a pattern. Most end with some form of the traditional rice with "something" plus a few sides (like pickles). Must say - I haven't seen too many tasting menus ending with rice with something and a few sides in the west .

While eating these meals - I expected to have some kind of epiphany. Like - "oh - this is where tasting menus came from". But no such lightbulb went off in my head. Most of the meals we had were very good ---> excellent - but didn't remind me of anything familiar - including tasting menus. Instead - the occasional familiar "fusion" touch - like a forlorn piece of French bread at a "French Fusion/Kaiseki restaurant" in Osaka - seemed really out of place (although the restaurant was otherwise excellent).

Perhaps I'm not operating on a high enough intellectual plane. Then again - I have to catch up with 13 time zones .

So where did tasting menus come from? Robyn

[BryanZ]

I would say that kaiseki is a definite influence. The progression of courses is evocative of modern tasting menus.

[rich]

It dates back to about 373 BC in Greece when many different courses were served to the royalty at Partheon feasts as a sign of placating all the various gods. Each had a favorite food and no one wanted to offend any god for fear of retribution.

The Romans picked up the habit during their reign of terror and glutony - and it eventually came to America during the first Thanksgiving, when at least 19 courses were served. Later on, Washington's inauguration dinner (1789) picked up the practice when 16 small courses were offered during the feast in New York City.

It is believed the east picked up the habit from the influences of Marco Polo, though there is some evidence of multi-course smaller portioned meals in very early Shintoism. (I'm not completely sure of the latter - maybe some of our friends on the Asia board can help here.)

It lay dormant until Richard M. Nixon revitalized the practice during a dinner honoring the new relationship with China in 1972. More than 26 smaller courses were offered that evening celebrating the many cuisines of both nations.

As far as I can tell, its first regular menu appearance was in 9th Century England at inns on the road between London and Newmarket. Travelers were offered a tasting of the best of the house as a lighter repast, instead of a full, heavy meal late in the evening.

In this country and in modern times, it seems a restaurant in Queens called The Plantation on Queens Blvd. offered a tasting of the South as a regular menu choice - that dates to the mid 1950's.

That's about the best I can recall at present.

[chef koo]

paul bocuse is largely credited with taking the typicla french way of serving food (large plate with meat veg and starch) and changing it into numerous little servings. not sure if it's the same thing you're talking about.

Edited April 29, 2006 by chef koo (log)

[Daniel Rogov]

Contrary to popular belief, the roots of the degustation menu do not go back to ancient Greece or the Middle-Ages, even though it was then considered appropriate to serve 12, 16 or even 20 or more courses at a single meal. Unlike true degustation meals, those Medieval dinners were unplanned and unsophisticated and, because they relied on terribly heavy sauces, would be considered basically inedible by any sophisticated diner today.

There is a good chance that the very first versions of what we now know as the degustation menu, were those offered between 1880 and 1910 by the great chef George- Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier, whose restaurants were in the Ritz Hotels of Paris and London, was the chef whose self-appointed task was to satisfy the appetites of the most royal and the most wealthy members of European society. Escoffier loved nothing better than impressing his guests. He saw no reason why they could not start their meal at six in the evening, work their way through as many as fifteen full courses and finally leave his restaurant at three in the morning.

[rich]

Contrary to popular belief, the roots of the degustation menu do not go back to ancient Greece or the Middle-Ages, even though it was then considered appropriate to serve 12, 16 or even 20 or more courses at a single meal. Unlike true degustation meals, those Medieval dinners were unplanned and unsophisticated and, because they relied on terribly heavy sauces, would be considered basically inedible by any sophisticated diner today.

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I respectfully disagree. While we might find them inedible by today's standards, they were very sophisticated for the times. And most if not all were planned - sometimes months in advance, according to every account I have read. It was especially true for those meals that revolved around the changing of the seasons - which was considered a reward by the gods and eventually became the basis for most of today's religious feast days.

I don't see the logic of saying these weren't the roots because we wouldn't find those dinners edible today. Who's to say hundreds or thousands of years from now, people won't feel the same way about what we're eating today.

[godito]

I'm not saying this is where the modern concept comes from, but the western tasting menu is modern. Middle Eastern, Asian and even North African Countries have been serving multiple-course meals for hundreds if not thousands of years. I think that we have to credit Escoffier and some of the old school french chefs for changing the way we view food (and how we serve it). But the concept of the many dishes might have become popular with the difussion of information of the last couple of decades or so.

Now, I remember the first "tasting menus" I had were 5, maybe 7 dishes. Just in the past 10 years have I seen 30 small plates. As far as I know, that's fairly recent.

btw, my grandma used to tell me stories when she was growing up in Bolivia, they would have lunches (thebig meal of the day was for lunch) that included:

Bread with many toppings

Salad

Appetizer

Soup

First Main Course

Second Main Course

Dessert

Coffee or tea with pastries.

[The Old Foodie]

There is a good chance that the very first versions of what we now know as the degustation menu, were those offered between 1880 and 1910 by the great chef George- Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier, whose restaurants were in the Ritz Hotels of Paris and London, was the chef whose self-appointed task was to satisfy the appetites of the most royal and the most wealthy members of European society. Escoffier loved nothing better than impressing his guests. He saw no reason why they could not start their meal at six in the evening, work their way through as many as fifteen full courses and finally leave his restaurant at three in the morning.

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Here is an example of an Escoffier menu- for the President of France and the King and Queen of Norway, in 1908.

Menu du Diner

Offert par M. le President Fallieres

a LL. MM le Roi et la Reine de Norvege

27 Mai 1908

Melon frappé

Consommé Théodora

Crème de Volaille à l’ancienne

Truites Saumonée u vin du Rhin

Poulets de grain à la Parisienne

Selle de Pré-salé Forestière

Foies gras frais glacés au Xérès

Granité à l’orange

Sorbets au kummel

Dindonneaux au truffés

Jambons d’York au Champagne

Salade Gauloises

Asperges d’Argenteuil sauce Crème

Poires Crassanes

Friandises

Dessert

Pity I dont have the wine list for that meal!

[Student Chef]

Hello! I need some help with a Culinary class project. We are supposed to come up with recipes for all of the 26 dishes served by Escoffier at Christmas dinner in 1905. (The menu is in the back of the Escoffier book.) Then we need to cost out three of the dishes, ingredient by ingredient, to see how much it would cost to produce per portion at today's prices. It sounds like a good learning experience, but actually I am having a lot of trouble identifying some of the dishes. What are Sylphides de Roitelets? Etoile de Berger, anyone? What would Tortue Verte be as an hors d'oeuvres? (Surely not a soup, right?) How about Les D'elices de St. Antoine? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

There is a good chance that the very first versions of what we now know as the degustation menu, were those offered between 1880 and 1910 by the great chef George- Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier, whose restaurants were in the Ritz Hotels of Paris and London, was the chef whose self-appointed task was to satisfy the appetites of the most royal and the most wealthy members of European society. Escoffier loved nothing better than impressing his guests. He saw no reason why they could not start their meal at six in the evening, work their way through as many as fifteen full courses and finally leave his restaurant at three in the morning.

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Here is an example of an Escoffier menu- for the President of France and the King and Queen of Norway, in 1908.

Menu du Diner

Offert par M. le President Fallieres

a LL. MM le Roi et la Reine de Norvege

27 Mai 1908

Melon frappé

Consommé Théodora

Crème de Volaille à l’ancienne

Truites Saumonée u vin du Rhin

Poulets de grain à la Parisienne

Selle de Pré-salé Forestière

Foies gras frais glacés au Xérès

Granité à l’orange

Sorbets au kummel

Dindonneaux au truffés

Jambons d’York au Champagne

Salade Gauloises

Asperges d’Argenteuil sauce Crème

Poires Crassanes

Friandises

Dessert

Pity I dont have the wine list for that meal!

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[jumanggy]

Hi studentchef, I can help you out a little with one menu item.

Sylphides de Roitelets is Wren Sylphides. I imagine chicken would be an easier substitute (Sylphides de volaille).

You'll need to prepare quenelles of chicken (or whatever) forcemeat (mousselines). Pound a boned chicken in a mortar with salt and white pepper, then add egg whites then rub through a sieve, then chill. Stir in some cream. Cover the quenelles with bechamel sauce with a fine julienne of truffles. In a barquette, put some of the bechamel sauce, then top with a mousseline. Arrange a slice of white chicken meat on top and cover with a thin layer of more sauce. Cover by piping a Parmesan souffle mixture all over. Bake for 4-5 minutes to cook the souffle. (paraphrased from Ma Cuisine.)

Good luck!

As far as Etoile de Berger (Shepherd's Star) and Les Delices de St. Antoine go, Google tells me they're a boulangerie-patisserie and a charcuterie, respectively. I think. Maybe de Tortue Verte is a jelly?

Edited January 17, 2008 by jumanggy (log)

[JasonTrue]

In France and England, there were two fashions called "Chinoiserie", "Japonism", and later "Japanoiserie" which were influential in art, landscaping, interior design, and architecture.

It would be very surprising if there was no influence from these "style" movements on cuisine. Nouvelle Cuisine (the 1960s-and-beyond version) is generally acknowledged as having a strong influence from Japanese cuisine, though I would imagine it is possible to trace earlier Japanese influences on European cuisines. The focus on fresh ingredients and relatively simple preparations and elegant presentations certainly doesn't owe everything to Japan, but this approach is far more Japanese than it was bourgeois European.

Once some of the pretentions of nouvelle cuisine wore thin, the idea of emphasizing ingredients rather than elaborate techniques had become mainstream enough that it's hard to imagine it was once not at all traditionally French.

Of course, one of the things that the preference for white porcelain in higher-end French cuisine (the technology for which wouldn't have been possible without Chinese influence) created was 1) Large plates for small servings, which is not Japanese at all, and 2) The need for chefs to play with 3D effects (towers and stacking), and painting of the plates with dabs and dots and brushstrokes of sauces and such.

Japanese dinnerware is smaller in scale, tends to have distinctive brushwork or glazing, and is chosen to decorate the food. The "tasting menu" aesthetic often requires complex plating so that the food decorates the large, plain ceramic pieces it's served on. This is a pretty substantial divergence from Japanese aesthetics, which, even in formal or even kaiseki meals, tends to have a fairly minimalist plating style. A simple garnish, an attempt to evoke something seasonal, a consciousness of the choice of cutting technique, and avoidance of "mounds" of food, characterizes formal presentation.

[Chris Amirault]

Thomas Keller would seem, at least, to give a nod to kaiseki in this Reuters piece, saying that the "Kaiseki dinner (traditional multi-course dinner) is very similar to the way we serve food in the French Laundry." Not exactly a declaration of historical lineage, but there you go.

[Barry Foy]

I'm no historian, but it seems to me that mentioning the Japonisme and Chinoiserie fads in a culinary context is really stretching it. The one thing that could not have successfully traveled halfway across the world during the periods of these trends was food, at least anything more than maybe rice, soy sauce, and a few dried or cured bits. Since the very essence of kaiseki, culinarily and philosophically, is transience/evanescence, given the technology available at the time, that piece of raw hamachi would have been darn good and ripe before it could have arrived on French shores to influence the cuisine. Moreover, the kinds of things the Japanese and Chinese ate would have struck Europeans as preposterous, inedible, possibly monstrous and infernal (for many they still do)--just the opposite of filling them with inspiration about gastronomical possibilities. So references to Japonisme and so on may be better left to discussions of visual art, to, for example, those ukiyo-e prints said to have been used as wrapping paper for ceramics and spotted by the Impressionists.

While it may be a stimulating exercise to try and identify certain events and conditions as triggers or portents of the tasting-menu concept, I have a hard time imagining a loftier genesis for it than the exploitation of an opportunity to squeeze more money out of customers, an impulse that of course goes way back. Believe it or not, that's not necessarily a complaint, since I like tasting menus. When I can afford them, which is almost never.

[JasonTrue]

I don't buy that, because there's firm evidence of cultural transfer in the opposite direction: tempura was clearly introduced by the Portuguese to Japanese elites in roughly the 16th century, and things like bread were introduced much the same way.

And cooks certainly traveled with merchants who moved to Japan, China, India and elsewhere, and I'm sure at least some of them went home. In the 1500s, Spanish, Dutch, English, and Portuguese set up shop in Nagasaki and elsewhere, and of course, they were almost all sent home in 1639, except for the Dutch in Nagasaki. Certainly at hat time European agricultural technology was introduced to Japan.

The tasting menu doesn't revolve around very specific ingredients, but in presentation, portioning and philosophy. All of those things can transfer long distances with the right people behind them. Since most of Japonisme and Chinoiserie was a huge distortion of the context of the aesthetics, it wouldn't seem that far-fetched to me that there's at least some connection. That's not the same as proof, of course.

The tasting menu, or menu degustation, is far more modern. That tradition is roughly a hundred years old, and coincides neatly with increased foreign residences (ijinkan) in the Meiji period in Yokohama and Kobe. Foreigners in this period weren't nearly as isolated as the Dutch, either.

The nouvelle cuisine movement (the 3rd one by that name) emerged after increased accessibility of air travel, and is certainly post-World War II. The connections between nouvelle cuisine and Japanese kaiseki are far less tenuous.

It's also worth noting that the use of unmarinated raw fish is relatively new, and was, prior to refrigeration, somewhat unique to Tokyo, so the raw Hamachi thing probably doesn't apply.

Edited February 6, 2008 by JasonTrue (log)

[Doodad]

I thought that the tasting menu was a modern invention derived from the "grazing" fads of the 80s and 90s.

I never saw it on menus presented as an option until fairly recently.

[JasonTrue]

The colloquial phrase "tasting menu" seems kind of new. "Menu degustation" is a bit older.

I thought that the tasting menu was a modern invention derived from the "grazing" fads of the 80s and 90s. 

I never saw it on menus presented as an option until fairly recently.

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