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COCHON


Jason Perlow

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http://www.cochonrestaurant.com

COCHON is Donald Link's (of Herbsaint fame) new restaurant, set to open this week. I didn't get a chance to try any of the food there, as the were just getting the kitchen online when I spoke to him (of which I will have a podcast up on OTB when I get to it in the very long queue).

As you can see, its a very traditional style Cajun restaurant, with German influences and a focus on pork. Pigs are actually going to be slaughtered specifically for this restaurant and they will be butchered onsite, where they will be made into all kinds of charcuterie.

Sounds like its going to be very, very ambitious and it will be one of the new go-to restaurants in the city. One thing is for certain though, Link definitely has a lot of balls to be opening a brand new restaurant in New Orleans's current atmosphere.

Jason Perlow, Co-Founder eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters

Foodies who Review South Florida (Facebook) | offthebroiler.com - Food Blog (archived) | View my food photos on Instagram

Twittter: @jperlow | Mastodon @jperlow@journa.host

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Not to disparage the size of Donald Link's balls, but this restaurant has been in the planning stage for almost a year. It probably would have been more expensive to turn back at this point. I'm really impressed with the folks who DECIDED to open a new restaurant post-Katrina.

This menu looks shorter than the pdf copy I got. I'll try to post that later.

While it's an ambitious place, it's designed as a casual restaurant. From all that I've heard, it should be low-key enough for a last minute weekday meal.

Todd A. Price aka "TAPrice"

Homepage and writings; A Frolic of My Own (personal blog)

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Interesting concept. Haute Bbq. I don't see it though. I mean $17 for brisket and potato salad. When I think bbq, be it cochon, pulled prok or brisket, I think hole in the wall, styrofoam plates and plastic cutlery, ala Hillbilly Bbq and countless other side of the road establishments. I guess they did their research though. Surprised to see shrimp cocktail on the menu also. Charlie

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I'm going to a cocktail deal there this evening. I'm really looking forward to it. The guy knows what he is doing on a very, very deep level. I guarantee that it won't be bad, and there's a pretty good chance that it might be great.

Brooks Hamaker, aka "Mayhaw Man"

There's a train everyday, leaving either way...

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Unless you were looking for pictures of yuppies in office dress or aging hipsters with some time to kill, there wasn't much to photograph. What little food I could get to was really good, but it was hard to move.

Free cocktails on an offnight in the Warehouse Dist. is a sure fire way to draw a crowd. The band was pretty good, as well.

I did see lots of friends, though. So it was well worth the time.

I will go have dinner next week and let you know what happens. I'm sure it's going to be delicious. Hell, look who owns it. Also, it's a very nice, prototypical New Orleans Room-big old bar down one side, huge room that's sure to be loud, kitchen in the back.

Nice place and the graphics for the place are really attractive. The sign looks great in that neighborhood as it's pretty much at the end of what anyone would consider the Warehouse District dining area. But I can walk there in about 15 minutes from my palatial abode, so I happen to like the location.

Brooks Hamaker, aka "Mayhaw Man"

There's a train everyday, leaving either way...

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  • 2 weeks later...

In case you missed it, Donald Link and I discuss COCHON for a bit in the podcast interview I did with him:

http://offthebroiler.wordpress.com/2006/04...int-and-cochon/

Jason Perlow, Co-Founder eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters

Foodies who Review South Florida (Facebook) | offthebroiler.com - Food Blog (archived) | View my food photos on Instagram

Twittter: @jperlow | Mastodon @jperlow@journa.host

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Excellent piece on Donald Link, Boudin, and life in Southwest LA in The New York Times

Donald Link-Louisiana Boy

"When I grew up here, I thought it was like anywhere else," Link said between swigs of beer. "When I left, I realized that there isn't any other place like it."

Brooks Hamaker, aka "Mayhaw Man"

There's a train everyday, leaving either way...

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R.W. Apple likes it. See yesterday's New York Times. (And could someone pm me on the how to's of insering hyperlinks. I just can't get it.) In fact, he finds it the clear standout of the 77 new restaurants that have opened since Katrina. (He did mention Longbranch as well.) (I find that stat incredible. What I also can't quite figure out is why the number or people eating out has grown exponentially since the storm. I mean its nearly impossible to get a table. I must say it is boom time for the restaurant business.) ch

Edited by Mayhaw Man to insert link (I know, I know-teach a man to fish....)

So now I'll go teach a man to fish.

Edited by Mayhaw Man (log)
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I was hungry, curious and had a couple hours to kill before meeting a group for dinner at Galatoire's, so I stopped in for a quick bite the other day. I guess I liked the decor (modern BBQ, futuristic ski lodge?). The food was good. Loved the shrimp and eggplant dressing. Very smoky with a nice spicy kick - I could have sworn there was pork in there, but they swear there wasn't any. The "link" sausage was good too, but not outstanding. Also tried a taste of the grilled shrimp - nice, comes with a tangy salsa on top. I've heard the fried boudin are the way to go (wish I'd heard that before I went!). Also heard mixed reports on the cochon (one friend said it was dry and tough as a shoe one time and tender, moist another). Definitely worth a try.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally made it to Cochon; nifty decor...sort of packing-crate-meets-camp-meets-feng-shui. Here's my rundown:

--pork & blackeyed pea gumbo: very tasty, deep brown roux, medium-thick with shreds of pork, finely cut greens, and blackeyed peas; long peppery finish. I'd order this again.

--"link" sausage on a wedge of grits with peppers and onions: a competent, well-executed pork sausage, but nothing original or unique.

--hogshead cheese: triangles of very meaty, only lightly gelled, mildly flavored headcheese, accompanied by small toasts and housemade pickles and mustard. I thought that the presentation was more than a bit precious, and the headcheese needed more "greens" (parsley, green onions) and definitely needed more heat & garlic.

--smoked brisket & horseradish potato salad: I was expecting a dry smoked brisket, but this was a wet, fatty brisket with only the lightest tang of smoke...kind of plain, really. Nothing special about the potato salad, either.

I really wanted to love this place, unreservedly. These flavors are in my DNA. But it didn't blow me away. It was all too contrived, overdone, yet in other spots, too restrained. (I actually snickered at the price tag for boudin balls.)

I couldn't even bring myself to eat dessert: perhaps because homemade banana pudding, german chocolate cake, and pineapple upside down cake all routinely emerge from my kitchen.

Am I the only one underwhelmed?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Am I the only one underwhelmed?

I've eaten there three times now; twice for lunch, and once at the bar after work with some colleagues. I've enjoyed it each time, though my choices from the menu differed from yours in most respects.

I really enjoyed the fried chicken livers with pepper jelly, the spicy pork ribs, and the head cheese. I've also had the cochon (good) and the rabbit and dumplings (perfect).

I did a mini-review of my first meal there here: appetites

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