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magnolia

Paul.A.Young Fine Chocolates

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You lucky Islingtonites, Paul Young - a proper chocolatier, teacher (for himself, for Rococo, etc.) - opens his patisserie/chocolate shop on Monday. It's at 33 Camden Passage. I think he'll be offering freebies. I don't think I'll make it but would love to hear peoples' opinions:

paul.a.young fine chocolates

33 Camden Passage

Islington

London

N1 8EA

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Dropped in late afternoon. A small shop, but claims to have a fully equipped aircon chocolate workshop in the basement.

Paul Young seems a personable chap; looks younger than he is (must be) - cv includes seven years with MPW (Criterion, Titanic, Oak Room).

Managed to get through a good assortment; benchmark dark chocolate truffle good texture (though from the shop so not as ice cold as I prefer with a good crisp shell outside. Some other good options - a robust fresh raspberry flavoured truffle, a zesty passion fruit filled chocolate (tart... maybe too tart?), a buttery butter praline (more like a caramel filling than a praline) and a nice sea-salt caramel which apparently has won prizes of some sort (not as gummy as some sea salt caramels I've had. Plus a marzipany saffron chocolate which was a bit wierd.

Didn't try the plain bars but nothing particularly daring - chilli (hints of Mounte-"Itsu of the Chocolate World"-Zumas?), and a maldon sea salt bar. Couverture is sourced from Valhrona and Amadei.

Some very accomplished pastry work on display - chocolate tart, sea salt caramel tart (other goodies listed on the list but not available alas, including macarons and a luscious-sounding chocolate-lavender millefeuille). The pate brisee on the tarts was really good - very short crumbly melting rather than hard-crisp as can sometimes be the case (cf sketch which the pastry cases are thicker and more biscuity. Apparently PY has a background in patisserie, hence... If only there was more pastry and some more fruit stuff. LONDON HAS A MASSIVE SHORTAGE OF TOP NOTCH PATISSERIEas I have said time and time again.

Much to praise; few week spots (though of course this was day one... lets hope standards are maintained). Macaron in Clapham and now this place... patisserie on the Northern line is looking up!

ta

J

PS website here.


Edited by Jon Tseng (log)

More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!

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I feel blessed, having done some private tuition with Paul and now he opens a shop on my doorstep. Won't do much for the bikini diet, but then neither did the packet of Cheese and Onion McCoys I just finished...

Talking of the lack of good patisseries, I was shocked to hear that Sketch Parlour is closing to be replaced with a VIP lounge. Am I the last person in London to know this?


Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

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Talking of the lack of good patisseries, I was shocked to hear that Sketch Parlour is closing to be replaced with a VIP lounge. Am I the last person in London to know this?

nope

f*ck

do you know when its closing?

J


More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!

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Hold everything! The Parlour isn't closing.

Its still open to the general public for breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea until 6.30pm. After that its Sketch members only for a more clubby type of affair with DJs and all that malarky. They've done away with the glass topped display counters after a bit of a refub, but they are still making all the pastries and Viennoiserie on the premises which are now wheeled around on trolleys instead. They are still also available to takeaway.


Edited by Andy Lynes (log)

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Hold everything! The Parlour isn't closing.

Its still open to the general public for breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea until 6.30pm. After that its Sketch members only for a more clubby type of affair with DJs and all that malarky. They've done away with the glass topped display counters after a bit of a refub, but they are still making all the pastries and Viennoiserie on the premises which are now wheeled around on trolleys instead. They are still also available to takeaway.

Phew!

Don't scare me Suzi! :laugh:


More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!

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I don't post for months and then start a scurrilous rumour...

Just went and picked up/scoffed eleven assorted macaroons just in case

damn they're good. by some way the best in London AND less then half the price of Laduree

How u keeping suze?

J


More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!

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I'm well John. Just back from Oz and off to Vegas. But (getting back on topic) the most important thing in my life at the moment is getting to Paul's shop. You should give me a call next time you're there. I live just round the corner!


Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

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This is terrible news! I am already being called 'fatty' at home. How do these people expect us to show disclipine when they have all these delicious goodies on offer??? Must keep reminding myself..research, research

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Just visited this afternoon.

I'm utterly in love.

He's a charming guy, really knows his stuff. Today he was dishing out mugs of the most amazing hot chocolate - made solely of chocolate and water, the way, he said, that the Aztecs used to drink it.

I don't think I've ever tasted anything like it. Clear, clean taste, absolute silkiness of texture - none of the graininess or cloying adhesive quality of others I've tasted and, quite counter-intuitively, light.

I mean, c'mon, that's practically an isotonic health drink.

Let's go. Now!

To Islington, O my Brothers and Sisters!

Batter down the doors, strip naked and roll in puddles of it.


Tim Hayward

"Anyone who wants to write about food would do well to stay away from

similes and metaphors, because if you're not careful, expressions like

'light as a feather' make their way into your sentences and then where are you?"

Nora Ephron

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Popped in this morning and have been scoffing chocolates most of this afternoon. I got through quite a few ( it is a bank holiday afterall) and would recommend the seasalt with caramel, this was by far my favourite.

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Photo visit to Paul A. Young and Melt here .


Filipe A S

pastry student, food lover & food blogger

there's allways room for some more weight

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Paul starts his range of icecream in the next few days. He'd just finished churning some double chocolate brownie when I popped by begging for treats. He's also going to do raspberry and white chocolate, salted caramel and griotte cherries. All will be served in small balls, coated in chocolate. I said "like posh choc ices" and he insisted it would be "like Ice Magic".


Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

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Bit like Ramsay's iced white chocolate and strawberry petit fours then (which were no doubt nicked from elsewhere)?

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Bit like Ramsay's iced white chocolate and strawberry petit fours then (which were no doubt nicked from elsewhere)?

Not at all, actually. Paul's freezer has arrived and the ice-cream is here. You get a scoop of ice cream and then molten chocolate poured over the top. Didn't try any as it is teeming with rain and I couldn't eat ice cream and struggle with my brolly at the same time.

However, I did try the lime truffle. Just perfect for popping into your mouth while traversing the water logged streets of Islington. Forget Paul's salted caramel. The lime has it. Possibly the best chocolate I have ever eaten.


Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

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Bit like Ramsay's iced white chocolate and strawberry petit fours then (which were no doubt nicked from elsewhere)?

Not at all, actually. Paul's freezer has arrived and the ice-cream is here. You get a scoop of ice cream and then molten chocolate poured over the top.

Got the wrong end of the stick, apologies. Sounds lovely.

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I was briefly in London last week and took advantage of the opportunity of having several of Paul's brownies, but now I'm on the other side of the world again. Does anyone have a clue how he makes them so moist and gloopy? I'd like to try making something like them at home, but I don't have a clue where to start!

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I was briefly in London last week and took advantage of the opportunity of having several of Paul's brownies, but now I'm on the other side of the world again. Does anyone have a clue how he makes them so moist and gloopy? I'd like to try making something like them at home, but I don't have a clue where to start!

I know what youre getting at, ill post a little recipe later for what i consider to be perfectly gloopy brownies. Nothing at the moment (except the anti-foie gras stuff) annoys me more than dry brownies.

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