Sascha

[harlanturk]

Any word on Sascha Lyon's (formerly of Pastis) new namesake restaurant, SASCHA?

[Pumpkin Lover]

Daily Candy

Eater

Gothamist

[Sneakeater]

I know it's bad form to comment on a restaurant you haven't been to, but this really smells like another case of somebody's getting his name put on the door way prematurely.

[ewindels]

Devotees of serious frites, sing hallelujah: the Grail has been found. Hie thee fleetly to Sascha on Gansevoort Street, where paragons of the genre are being offered at a new bi-level bistro headed by Sascha Lyon, formerly of Pastis. These absurdly crisp, dark golden treats brought both Sam Kinsey and me to speechlessness – no mean feat on either part. These suckers are being fried at least twice if not three times, and if not in beef tallow then an amazing substitute. Not since Tartine first opened have I had frites this good, and Sam likened them – wholly complimentarily – to McDonald’s in the ‘70s.

The downstairs casual space is reminiscent of Pastis, but lacking the ubiquitous subway tiles is somewhat warmer and more convivial. The upstairs space is well designed and attractive, although some of the tight table spacings are going to prove challenging, even for the anorexic types who make up such a large portion of the area’s population. Shades of Balthazar, there is a small bakery next door, but as of last night they hadn’t a huge amount to offer besides some cupcakes, muffins and breads. Service was smooth, expert and unobtrusive.

The menu upstairs, where we ate, is described as bistro / new American. Long it ain’t, though what it does offer is pretty varied. The tiny bread basket holds nothing stellar. The apps and entrees lean more towards the bistro-side. The plates de fruits de mer seemed real popular, based on the non-stop parade of them that sailed by our table all night. Sam and I stuck to the terrific, house-made charcuterie plate and a plate of “crispy shrimp”, oddly metallic tasting jumbo shrimp wrapped in shredded phyllo dough, flash friend and served with an unremarkable curry mayonnaise.

Short rib carbonnade was luscious and rich, and came with a big dollop of stoemp that made the side of potato gratin I ordered extremely superfluous, although it sure was delicious. Sam’s NY strip steak seemed fine, although we both agreed that you can get almost equal quality at Landmarc for significantly less money (more than $30 at Sascha). But boy howdy do those frites make the price worth it, and any condiment would an insult – these were made to be savored on their own, unadorned.

The new American aspect shows up on the dessert menu, comprised of sundaes, layer cakes, and similar soda-fountain treats (including egg creams, lime rickies and, amazingly, phosphates, whatever those are – new thread here). We both felt that $7 for a single scoop ice cream sundae was a little much, though the ingredients were all superb and you really didn’t need more after what we’d had.

Two wine lists are available, essentially one of bottles less than $100 and the “reserve” list ($100 or more, generally a lot more). From the former we chose a very good garnacha for $32. With a drink each to start, tax and tip, the damage came to $195 for the two us.

Fine as the experience was, I can’t say as I’d run back, especially at that expense. The menu offers nothing out of the ordinary or remarkable, and while I realize that rents in the area must be astronomical, the prices struck me as somewhat exorbitant (none of the entrees are less than $23). And there are a few minor kinks to be worked out, particularly the ventilation system, which kept a significant breeze billowing through the room the whole time we were there; the weather proofing of the windows (make sure you don’t sit next to any of them, at least on a cold night); and the sepulchral lighting in the men’s room.

Then again, those frites are a reeeeeeeal temptation….

[slkinsey]

Yes, a vrey nice place but, as Ed points out, not exactly bargained price. Unless one is inclined to mortgage the house and buy one of the (impresive looking) tiered seafood platters, I think other places offer similar quality for a better price. The strip steaks I've had at Landmarc, for example, have been better than the one I had at Sascha, which was a little tight in texture for my taste -- and while Landmarc's frites don't hold a candle to the gargantuan pile of fried potato that came with my steak at Sascha, I'm not sure those frites are enough to justify a five dollar price difference.

All that said, if I lived of worked in the area, I could see myself dropping into the downstairs Gansevoort Room from time to time for a burger and some of those delicious frites. The cocktail list also contains some interesting concoctions worth trying, although perhaps a bit on the sweet side for my palate.

[knews9]

went saturday night around 630 to eat downstairs -- i agree with previous reviewers who note the warmth of the room (as well as the likeness to pastis). the dining room was fairly packed given the time and terrible weather.

i thought the menu's pricing was quite odd, with lots of under 20 entrees (pasta, sandwiches, all the fish dishes except the lobster as well as a very cheap "double" burger ($11)) and then the two beef dishes over 30 ($32 for the strip steak and $36 for the rib eye). i had a hankering so i crossed my fingers and hopedthe strip would be worth it...

unfortunately, the strip steak was easily the blandest steak i've ever had in a restaurant. the texture -- and i ordered it rare -- was much chewier (not tough but just not tender) than i'd have liked. it was shockingly bad, and the price made it even worse.

the fries were good but definitely couldn't make up for the disappointment.

my friend had the chicken pot pie which i didn't taste but looked fine, though lonely on the plate -- it was an unmolded pie sort of plopped onto a white plate. i'd have thought leaving it in a nice baking dish would have made for a nicer presentation, or, if not, putting something else on the plate (a little salad? i don't know.)

if you're in the 'hood and after a quick bite in a nice room, i'd recommended. definitely not worth a trip, though. IMO.