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Pipian


lperry

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I found pepitas in my local market and decided (knowing nothing about it) to make some pipian. I looked on the internet and in the Bayless cookbook I have, and I ended up being more confused than ever. From a few hours of reading, the best explanation I can find for the distinction between mole verde made with pepitas and pipian is simply a difference in regional terminology.

Can the experts please help? Are there differences between pipian and mole verde? How is pipian traditionally served? Does anyone have a wonderful recipe to share?

Thanks-

Linda

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I'll let others reply with more complete definitions, but moles are generally much more complex than pipians with many more ingredients and time necessary to make them. In essence my understanding is simply that pipians are mole "lite". By the way, Pipians need not be green. I just had an awesome red pipian made by members of our group while in Tlaxcala.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

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The recipe that was used, Pollo en Pipian Rojo is on page 342 of the First Edition of Diana Kennedy's Book, The Essential Cuisines of Mexico. While I was not involved in the preparation of that dish, I can attest to its deliciousness.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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  • 7 months later...

gallery_27569_3448_8658.jpg

OK, this isn't the world's prettiest picture.

Jacqueline Higuera McMahon's article, "Pumpkin seeds morph from jack-o'-lantern to mole" inspired me to give a Pipian a try.

I ended up half way between McMahon's recipe and the Oaxacan Pipian in Diana Kennedy's "The Art of Mexican Cooking". I did wimp out and not press it through sieve.

The side dish is kabocha squash braised with Rainbow Chard.

In any case, these flavors, combined with warm, fragrant corn tortillas, have got to be some of the most magical I can think of. Definitely worth the trouble.

Edited by eje (log)

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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For years I've been using Mark Miller's recipe for Pipián Rojo, from his The Great Chile Book. I couldn't locate it online, but if you do a Google search you'll find others. In addition to pepitas, his refried sauce includes ancho and guajillo chiles, chipotles in adobo, blackened tomatoes, roasted garlic, sauteed onions, dry-roasted peanuts, olive oil, water, and flavorings that include salt, sugar, cloves, cinnamon or canela, and allspice. Miller writes, "Pipáns can be served with appetizers, or used as a sandwich spread, in stuffings, or as a sauce or garnish for grilled meats." I've used it primarily as a sauce for chicken or duck. I tried it once with scallops, but it didn't match up terribly well plus it overwhelmed the scallops' natural sweetness.

Edited by Alex (log)

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What a great time of year to revive this thread. Thanks! Back in March I ended up making a green pipian that I served over posole. Since that time I've been doing more reading, and I am inclined to think that a pipian is a seed-based sauce (sesame is also common) and a mole is a chile-based sauce. Both types can include the other ingredients, but it seems to be the main ingredient or flavor that supplies the name.

eje- I think that looks good! If you don't want to sieve, I've found that a food mill does a really nice job with much less effort. I pressed the wire out of the frame on several sieves before I realized that a little cross-cultural ingenuity might be in order.

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Wow, this must have been the weekend for Pipián. I made it for dinner Saturday night. Here's the up close and personal on it.

gallery_26025_3812_71573.jpg

gallery_26025_3812_16223.jpg

And the whole recipe in photos from start to finish can be found here

Edited by kalypso (log)
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Wow, this must have been the weekend for Pipián.  I made it for dinner Saturday night.  Here's the up close and personal on it.

[...]

And the whole recipe in photos from start to finish can be found here

kalypso,

Looks great! Really enjoyed the detailed writeup on your blog, as well. Thanks for posting the link.

Though, ack, the "Enchiladas Sencillas" entry reminded me I've been cooking from Kennedy's "The Art of Mexican Cooking" for 20 years. My, how time flies!

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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