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Lobby Resto reviewed in the Star


rgruby

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Lobby was given a largely favourable review in the Star yesterday. They have hired a chef who's been working in Spain - and he's brought some of the adventurousness of the current Spanish dining scene with him it appears. "Caviar" made from red peppers. Foams and all that.

So, first off, anybody tried it yet? Based on the review, it's definitely on my want to check out list.

Second, do you think will "molecular gastronomy" fly in TO?

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

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Lobby is HIGLY overrated.

I wouldnt be surprised is there was some under the table play in this writeup, because all Lobby is, is a pretencious over hyped lounge, which serves mediocre food.

That was its rep before they got this new chef from Spain. Oh, the article mentioned they'd also poached a bunch of Susur's servers.

Have you been there since the new chef was in charge?

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

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I dont know when the old one was replaced, but I was there about 3 weeks ago I believe.

You might've been there in the changing of regimes period - not the best time to judge any restaurant. I will say I've never been to Lobby, but the reviews I've seen weren't overly kind. Until the one in Saturday's Star.

The Star article mentions that the new chef was hired partly on a guest stint he did at Susur's. I also recall seeing a blurb that he was doing a Winterlicious menu at Lobby. I take it that that was a further trial period and that the management at Lobby felt he passed the test.

If you ate there three weeks ago, that's around the end of Winterlicious. You may have been eating the now former chef's food. If so, it may not reflect the new chef's style, attention to detail, etc. etc. etc. Even if it was the new chef, let's give him a bit of time to get his own team together to deliver his vision, and to get acquainted with the TO food scene and product availability and so on. It sounds like something new for TO. If it's good, I hope it prospers.

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

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I did not mention this before regarding my insight to the 'under the table' comment, that being said I didnt base the vast difference in opinions simply on mine alone. I had friends who were at Lobby subsequet to my visit, who came with the same comments. You must also take in to account who owns Lobby, and their ties to the Toronto star...

The plot thickens.

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I did not mention this before regarding my insight to the 'under the table' comment, that being said I didnt base the vast difference in opinions simply on mine alone.  I had friends who were at Lobby subsequet to my visit, who came with the same comments.  You must also take in to account who owns Lobby, and their ties to the Toronto star...

The plot thickens.

OK, who does own Lobby and what are its/ their connection to the Star? I will say that if there is a reasonably close connection that should be made explicit in the review.

Thanks,

Geoff Ruby

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If there are any known connections please let us know, Sadistick. Let's keep the thread on track and factually correct with regard to ownership and matters of public record, no mysteries and no insinuations, okay? I'd really appreciate it. :smile:

Let's be clear here, no accusations. thanks.

Barbara Laidlaw aka "Jake"

Good friends help you move, real friends help you move bodies.

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all this half-talk is making me curious about their _food_...I just might try them, I heard they're open late after all (although, and this is only from driving past, they always look a little too cool to be serving good food)...

oh and if anyone can figure out what the connection is between this: http://www.chefdb.com/pl/677/ and this: http://www.torstar.com then I'd love to know.

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I have heard some really good things about this Chef and I am curious... especially as The Lobby is just around the corner from me.

I'm booked in for a tasting menu with the luscious honeys from JK this Thursday (off-site "management meeting")... so I'll give you my feedback then.

"nil illigitimum carborundum"

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Okay... here goes...

I have pics of each dish but I'm not quite sure how to upload them???

We had a superb time at the Lobby...

Service was stellar... a beautiful talented young lady called Trena.

Spotted James Chatto dining there.

Wines paired by John Gay were nothing short of spectacular.

My only complaints would really be the crowd (which was a tad obnoxious) and the music (which was henious... but then I am self confessed snob when it comes to such matters).

The food was extremely well executed.

Here is the menu:

Beet gazpacho shooter, grilled shrimp with radish sprouts, lychee caviar

Lobster cappuccino, curry oil and Caviar

Yellowfin tuna, tomato consomme jelly, avacado and cilantro puree

Squid ink gnocci, shrimp, tagliatelle squid and apsparagus

Spanish mackerel with red pepper caviar and vanilla soup

Squab with eucalyptus foam, carmalised pineapple, eucalyptus salt, baby bok choy, brussels sprout

Rabbit loin and saddle, molten fois gras, verjus foam, pumpkin puree

Chocolate ganache, red pepper/raspberry puree, hibiscus salt, olive oil

Lemon and lime sorbet, juniper and rose salts, gin and tonic soup/jelly

(By this point I had consumed matching wines with each course so my memories are slightly fuzzy)

Edited by Nondoctor (log)

"nil illigitimum carborundum"

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It sounds delicious, there is a thread about uploading, I'll add a link when I get home....it is fairly easy from ImageGullet tho', even I can manage it!

How would you comare your meal with other tasting menus in TO, or would you?

Barbara Laidlaw aka "Jake"

Good friends help you move, real friends help you move bodies.

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hmm, interesting … I'd always written Lobby off as an overpriced 'scene and be seen' kind of place. Too be honest though, I don't see molecular gastronomy taking off in a huge way in Toronto. There are a lot of things I like about the food scene in Toronto, but I don't think it's expecially adventurous or cohesive.

Cutting the lemon/the knife/leaves a little cathedral:/alcoves unguessed by the eye/that open acidulous glass/to the light; topazes/riding the droplets,/altars,/aromatic facades. - Ode to a Lemon, Pablo Neruda

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hmm, interesting … I'd always written Lobby off as an overpriced 'scene and be seen' kind of place. Too be honest though, I don't see molecular gastronomy taking off in a huge way in Toronto. There are a lot of things I like about the food scene in Toronto, but I don't think it's expecially adventurous or cohesive.

How can you say that the food scene in Toronto isnt adventurous?! Toronto has one of the most dynamic multicultural populations in the world and with that in turn has such a wide variety of 'ethnic' foods...one night you can have shark fin soup, the next you can go for haggis (not me!) or some etheopian fare...not many cities in this world where you can do that.

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How can you say that the food scene in Toronto isnt adventurous?!  Toronto has one of the most dynamic multicultural populations in the world and with that in turn has such a wide variety of 'ethnic' foods...one night you can have shark fin soup, the next you can go for haggis (not me!) or some etheopian fare...not many cities in this world where you can do that.

that was my first thought too, but how many people actually do? How many people have we all met who won't even eat raw fish (and c'mon, sushi's been in the mainstream for a really long time now, compared to say Ethiopean food)?

that said, I don't think Lobby needs a huge flood of patrons into the whole molecular gastronomy thing to stay afloat. Especially if their menu isn't purely weird science, I'm sure they can do enough "normal" business.

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gallery_26222_2650_47754.jpg

Beet gazpacho shooter, grilled shrimp with radish sprouts, lychee caviar

gallery_26222_2650_34512.jpg

Lobster cappuccino, curry oil and Caviar

gallery_26222_2650_122982.jpg

Yellowfin tuna, tomato consomme jelly, avacado and cilantro puree

gallery_26222_2650_85137.jpg

Squid ink gnocci, shrimp, tagliatelle squid and apsparagus

gallery_26222_2650_138134.jpg

Spanish mackerel with red pepper caviar and vanilla soup

gallery_26222_2650_88201.jpg

Squab with eucalyptus foam, carmalised pineapple, eucalyptus salt, baby bok choy, brussels sprout

gallery_26222_2650_116791.jpg

Rabbit loin and saddle, molten fois gras, verjus foam, pumpkin puree

gallery_26222_2650_2279.jpg

Chocolate ganache, red pepper/raspberry puree, hibiscus salt, olive oil

gallery_26222_2650_139994.jpg

Lemon and lime sorbet, juniper and rose salts, gin and tonic soup/jelly

"nil illigitimum carborundum"

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Looking at the food I would have to say the presentation is pretty much the same through out the menu, a little messy as well. With the prices charged I would think things would be a little more original , and a little less use of flavoured salts and "caviar".

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Looking at the food I would have to say the presentation is pretty much the same through out the menu, a little messy as well

Maybe jostled around a bit by the server before being set on the table? Also, not professional photoshoot conditions. Don't blame the photographer, who was drinking.

Perhaps the plateware could be more varied course to course - so not necessarily the food's fault if you think it looks the same.

The use of the ceramic spoon seems cliche by now, don't you think?

...As for how long the Spanish chef's been there, since late January at the latest, according to someone who works there. (Can't remember exactly.)

Edited by KevV (log)
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Great photos. What was your overall impression of the food? Did you have any particular favourites? Were there wine pairings with each course? How would you compare the meal to other tasting menus in this city?

Barbara Laidlaw aka "Jake"

Good friends help you move, real friends help you move bodies.

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