Yuva, contemporary Indian on East 58th Street

[Fat Guy]

The Yuva birth announcement (this is what the PR people call the press release about a new restaurant opening) didn't look all that auspicious. Another Indian restaurant on 58th Street between Third and Second Avenues! I might have skipped the press preview altogether, but we had babysitting and it was something to do.

I'm still deciding whether the meal I had at Yuva tonight was the best Indian meal I've ever had. The first bite I took was of a crab cake like no other, described on the menu simply as "spiced crab skewered and grilled." The dish arrived looking like an haute cuisine version of two golden corn dogs (yes, on sticks). My first taste totally redefined my expectations of the rest of the evening. It was so . . . light. And when I say that, I mean it. Servers are constantly telling me how light the crabcakes are at their restaurants. They're never light. They're crabcakes. But this thing was like air, if it's possible to imagine air with a lot of crab in it.

I had the press release, I mean birth announcement, folded up in my pocket. I confess I hadn't read it or planned to read it -- I had just taken it along so I could remember the address, not that you need a piece of paper to remember that you're going to an Indian restaurant on 58th between Third and Second any more than you need to write down the address of Grand Central Station.

The chef, it turns out, is a fellow named Dhandu Ram. He's not just a chef, he's a "Master grill chef," and as ridiculous as it sounds he does indeed cook such good stuff that it's hard not to agree that he's entitled to be referred to as a master grill chef. He's said to have cooked at the original Bukhara Grill in New Delhi.

The owners of the restaurant are a very nice seeming guy named Kedar Shah and his wife Hritu Deepak -- yes, Hritu Deepak the Indian soap star and face model. In case you were wondering what had become of her, she moved here to marry Kedar and she's now a restaurateur. They're both in their early 30s and they both look really good. Yuva, they say, means "youth."

Every dish we tried -- about ten of them -- was exceptional. Most displayed a level of refinement, lightness (really) and subtlety that has been long overdue at this price point (appetizers under $10, a lot of entrees under $20 though of course rack of lamb, lobster and whole fish are more, breads $3-$5), and I'm not really sure you get it at the Dawat price point anyway. This is not rustic cooking. It's delicate, exquisite, a little restrained but totally flavorful.

Chapli kabaabs (their spelling) were similar in weight (or lack thereof) to the crab cakes. You don't expect a dish described as lamb patties with red onions, crushed peppercorns and nutmeg to be anything but rustic and weighty. But these kabaabs were so fragile you could hardly cut them without crushing them. Amazing. "Sea splash" is a tasty cousin of ceviche: steamed shrimp and scallops with tamarind, Thai basil, red onion and an unfortunate (but harmless) splash of truffle oil. The other appetizer we tried was green papaya salad, the strands so long and fine they had to be twirled on the fork like spaghetti, in a chili mango vinaigrette -- excellent mix of crunchy texture, sweetness and spice.

The selection of breads is remarkable and includes a few things I'd have ordered if I'd had foreknowledge of how good the restaurant would be. We were smart enough to order the Kabuli naan, layered with a paste of cashew nuts, almonds, pistachios and raisins. Pretty sure there was some unadvertised coconut in there too. Very interesting flavors, maybe a little sweet to eat with the meal but quite delicious. Also excellent was the aloo parantha, stuffed with potatoes and spices. On my list for next time: "Sheermal: pan fried rich flaky saffron flavored sweet bread (a unique delicacy of peshawar)." I'm so there.

We had a mixed platter of items from the tandoor, all top notch: tandoori shrimp, hariyali kabab, malai tikka, boti kabab and aatish kabab, served with avocado sauce, red bean sauce and pomegranate sauce. Also a dish called "chicken mushroom," which is chicken in a white wine, almond and mushroom sauce. I'd have liked to try a bunch of the vegetable sides, but only thought to order the Yuva dal, terrific lentils cooked overnight with tomato and butter.

The restaurant is contemporary and Western in feel -- there are some Indian touches here and there but you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd walked into a small, classy restaurant operated by a former Jean Georges or Lespinasse sous chef: sixty seats, a glass wall overlooking the kitchen (where the two chefs are working their asses off and throwing a lot of flames), big white plates in square-ish shapes. Most of the dishes are plated to that standard as well -- colorful, appetizing, low-key -- though there's the occasional tacky misstep like a superfluous carved radish that should be retired to the Carnival Cruises midnight buffet.

Jehangir Mehta from Aix -- a terrific pastry chef -- is the consulting pastry chef, and the two desserts we tried were good (particularly the rasmalai), but not on par with the savory cuisine. He needs to do some tuning up to get there. Totally usable wine list with choices running from a New Zealand sauvignon blanc for under $30 up to Silver Oak '00 for $126 (also Opus for some ridiculous amount).

YUVA FRONTIER INDIAN GRILL

230 East 58th Street (between Chola and Dawat)

1.212.339.0090

(edited to replace raita with rasmalai)

[Jason Perlow]

I'm so there. No photos?

[Pan]

Wow, this place sounds really worth checking out!

But are you sure there was raita for dessert? Not kulfi, perhaps? I've never heard of a sweet raita for dessert.

[raji]

Myself as well. I'm not a fan of any of the Midtown Indians, and it's usually Curry Hill for South Indian soul food for me, or Haveli. Maybe Tabla for a splurge. Sounds like I have to check this place out immediately.

[Fat Guy]

(Meant to say rasmalai, not raita)

[ASM NY]

Great review FG. Not sure if you have been to Devi, but would be curious how you think they compare.

[Fat Guy]

The reason I said "I'm still deciding whether the meal I had at Yuva tonight was the best Indian meal I've ever had" rather than "The meal I had at Yuva tonight definitely was the best Indian meal I've ever had" is because I've had such great meals prepared by Hemant and Suvir, and also a meal at Vij's in Vancouver that was at this level of excellence, and maybe one in Singapore (I haven't been to India), and also there was a special meal at Tabla prepared by Vij, Suvir and several other world-class Indian chefs, including Jehangir Mehta (the pastry consultant for Yuva).

So I'm not ready to say better. What I'm ready to say is different. The lightness and haute refinement I mentioned is where Yuva really distinguishes itself. So it's a different kind of excellence. Based on my one-meal sample in a press preview context, though, I'd say it's in the same league as the best places and very special in its own way.

[Anonymouze]

Question Du Noir... is there a website or a place online with menus? Thanks!

[Fat Guy]

The owner and manager each gave me a business card that said www.yuvanyc.com. That website, however, is under construction. I have menus here, but I'd rather not post them as they are clearly labeled "preview" and contain various typos and may not reflect final descriptions or pricing.

[raji]

When does it open to the public?

[Fat Guy]

It's open to the public.

[Eatmywords]

This place sounds very interesting.

Anyone know if they offer a lunch/brunch buffet?

(I'll give them a hollar later).