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Synergy between sweet and savory: Port wines


Gifted Gourmet

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article from National Restaurant News

Port is appearing in more savory restaurant dishes...  port can be used to add color, flavor and depth to condiments, chefs say, from rich port-and-Stilton jus to creamy port aïoli and palate-cleansing port-truffle sorbet. Port plays into the most popular dish at the upscale Grill 23 in Boston, the slow-roasted beef tenderloin served over mashed potatoes with tawny-port-and-Stilton jus ...Murray uses tawny port in his lobster stock... makes a port-and-truffle-juice sorbet as an intermezzo course ... an appetizer of seared foie gras is served over candied figs and truffle-port sauce...  short ribs braised in port ...  aged, corn-fed Prime beef with port-infused plum and fig chutney..."It's a beautiful dish, with the ruby red port, the bright green from the chive oil and the golden chanterelles,"

I use port but mostly in sweet dishes ... now that I see how it is used by these chefs, in the layering of flavors, I need to learn to use it more creatively ...

How do you use port in your cooking? :rolleyes:

Please share any and all ideas here! :wink:

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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I use port in braises, French Onion Soup, onion confit and port-wine reductions usually.

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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I use port in braises, French Onion Soup and port-wine reductions usually.

I just made lamb shanks braised in port with star anise from the March Bon Appetit. Really good. Have also used it in sauces over the years & best of all, just finished a glass of 30-year-old port.

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I just made lamb shanks braised in port with star anise from the March Bon Appetit.  Really good.

I might be defrosting my lamb shanks at any moment, thanks to your comment here! or I may make a port wine reduction to go with my main course: I heat the port in a very heavy saucepan over medium heat until the steam rises from the liquid. Then I let the liquid reduce very slowly for 2 to 3 hours, until it has reduced to a syrupy glaze. There should be about 1/4 cup of port glaze from the original 2 cups ... :biggrin:

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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I have had a few meals with a port reduction sauce. One of my favorite appetizers at Kirch's French Country Inn in Lake Geneva, WI is a Crispy Duck & Portabella Mushroom Napoleon made with Crumbled Goat & BleuCheeses and a Port Wine Reduction. It is amazing. I could just eat that as my dinner and be satisfied.

I have added port to mushrooms and for a quick pan sauce for lamb chops. The mushrooms were really good with about a tablespoon or so of port and a splash of cream.

Explore the food, beverages, and people of Wisconsin EatWisconsin.com

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Try poaching pears in port. Michael Roberts has a great recipe for them with the sauce reduced and then served with a roquefort cream anglais sauce as well as the reduced port.

"Half of cooking is thinking about cooking." ---Michael Roberts

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My own favorite Port invention was Chicken Paillards with Port, Stilton, and Walnuts.

I sauteed chicken paillards in butter and olive oil, set them aside and softened some shallots in the pan, add a good splash of port and let it reduce and then crumbled in Stilton. Poured the resulting sauce ofer the chicken and topped with toasted walnuts. Heaven!

Have used Gorgonzola, too.

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