Ubud

[prasantrin]

I've been studying my guide book...it's been many years since I was last in Bali. Several people mentioned that Ubud is the best place for roast pig. Is there a particular place in Ubud that's good? I'll be there for winter holidays and we're staying in Ubud for the entire time. We'll probably be doing day trips here and there, and we may do one night in Lovina (for snorkelling and dolphin watching).

Kristin, I think our trips just barely overlap (I'll be there Dec. 21-Dec. 30). If you and your family are in Ubud early on during your holiday, want to do dinner at Ketut's Place? I had wanted to try their traditional Balinese dinner, but couldn't find anyone else who was interested.

One more question, everyone who was mentioned cooking classes has recommended Bumbu Bali. Has anyone tried Casa Luna? Or heard anything of it, in comparison with Bumbu Bali? I'm always wary of cooking classes for tourists (went to the most popular one in Chiang Mai, and I thought the food sucked), so I'd like to attend one that stays true to traditional flavours.

[Chef Metcalf]

I used to spend a considerable amount of time in Bali on business, 90% of it in the beautiful village of Ubud.

I met Janet, who runs the Casa Luna cooking school and I know she's very knowledgeable on Balinese cuisine and runs a number of food related businesses there. Judging by the quality of food in her restaurant Casa Luna, I'd jump at the chance to attend a class there.

Drop by for dinner, you can probably meet up with her and chat about the classes before committing to anything.

Don't miss out on Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Road either.

Amazing food and wonderful desserts.

Also don't miss sitting on the deck of Kupu Kupu Barong just outside of Ubud with the most amazing view of the Agung River below.

How I envy you.

Have a wonderful time.

[prasantrin]

I used to spend a considerable amount of time in Bali on business, 90% of it in the beautiful village of Ubud.

I met Janet, who runs the Casa Luna cooking school and I know she's very knowledgeable on Balinese cuisine and runs a number of food related businesses there. Judging by the quality of food in her restaurant Casa Luna, I'd jump at the chance to attend a class there.

Drop by for dinner, you can probably meet up with her and chat about the classes before committing to anything.

Thanks! I'll try the restaurant first. I think I'll probably end up going there, but what worries me is that they require a minimum of 8 participants for the classes I'm interested in. With the recent bombings, I'm not sure they'll have the people around to take the classes. But I'll be there with bells one! And if I can convince my friend to cook on her holiday, there may be two of us!

Don't miss out on Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Road either.

Amazing food and wonderful desserts.

Also don't miss sitting on the deck of Kupu Kupu Barong just outside of Ubud with the most amazing view of the Agung River below.

How I envy you.

Have a wonderful time.

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Is Cafe Wayan the place that has a sort of patio-type area, where most of the foreigners sit, and a front area where the locals sit? I ate at a fabulous Balinese restaurant in Ubud--it was the best food I had in Bali, but I can't remember the name. I vaguely remember that it had the name of a woman in it....

I am hoping to do more day trips outside of Ubud. When I was there before, I didn't get to see the rice paddies, the craft-specific villages, the waterfalls, etc., nor did I get to experience Balinese culture and society as much as I would have liked. It was very disappointing to travel with people who are typical tourists (who kept repeating the phrase "abject poverty" when refering to local business owners!). This time, I'm going to do as much as I can, even if I have to do it alone!

[Chef Metcalf]

I think I know the place you mean. Did she also run a small inn beside the restaurant?

I'll try and remember the name.

It's on the tip of my tongue.

It was also just off Monkey Forest Road, past the old Lillies Restarant and to the right I think.

Let me put my thinking cap on and I'll get back to you.

[Chef Metcalf]

Was it Okawati's Warung?

She's a woman but don't know if it's the same one you're talking about.

ciao

[prasantrin]

Was it Okawati's Warung?

She's a woman but don't know if it's the same one you're talking about.

ciao

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Is that related to the Oka Wati Hotel? If it is, then it isn't it. We stayed at the Oka Wati Hotel our first night in Ubud, but then moved to a cheaper place (we were poor, and in fact, we're still poor!). I checked my guide book and nothing seems familiar, so I guess I'm going to have to try to find that place again when I'm there. I have a vague memory of it, so I think I should be able to find it if it's still there. I remember it as being very good, but then, it was one of the few Balinese meals I ate in Bali (my friends were more interested in eating at places like the Hard Rock Cafe. )

[Chef Metcalf]

Was it Okawati's Warung?

She's a woman but don't know if it's the same one you're talking about.

ciao

←

Is that related to the Oka Wati Hotel? If it is, then it isn't it. We stayed at the Oka Wati Hotel our first night in Ubud, but then moved to a cheaper place (we were poor, and in fact, we're still poor!). I checked my guide book and nothing seems familiar, so I guess I'm going to have to try to find that place again when I'm there. I have a vague memory of it, so I think I should be able to find it if it's still there. I remember it as being very good, but then, it was one of the few Balinese meals I ate in Bali (my friends were more interested in eating at places like the Hard Rock Cafe. )

←

Sorry that wasn't the one!

Cafe Wayan did have an inside eating area and bakery at the front and then outside thatched huts throughout a garden at the back.

For cheap hotels, maybe check and see if Jati 3 is still up and running on Monkey Forest Road.

They used to have a great upstairs room with an incredible view of the rice fields, king sized bed and a nice outside balcony for cheap.

And don't forget to check out the morning produce market in Ubud too.

It starts at around 5:30 am and has all sorts of fascinating food items.

Edited October 10, 2005 by Chef Metcalf (log)

[torakris]

I have probably spent more time planning my trip than I will actually be there....

We are thinking of two day trips to Ubud, for the last one we are going to charter a car and hit places like the reptile park, the pasar seni (craft market ) in Sukawati then up to Tegallalang for the views and a lunch at Kampung Cafe in nearby Ceking. Then over to the Bali Elephant Safari and finally dinner at Cafe Wayan's Sunday night Balinese buffet.

I can't find any information about the Balinese buffet though, except that it is wonderful. Has anyone been what kinds of dishes is it? Would they have babi guling or should I plan on eating this elsewhere?

Our other trip to Ubud will probably be without the kids. Rona are you still interested in the cooking class at Casa Luna maybe I (or we) could join you.

Are you still interested in Ketut's Place? I seet ehy do their Balinese dinners on Sun, Weds, Fri. I don't think we will overlap a Sunday but Weds and Fri are open.

Has anyone been here?

We will maybe or maybe not have the kids with us for the dinner, how child friendly are places like this in the evening? (the kids are 5, 8 and 9)

[prasantrin]

Our other trip to Ubud will probably be without the kids. Rona are you still interested in the cooking class at Casa Luna maybe I (or we) could join you.

I'm still planning on doing the cooking class! I was thinking of doing it on the 28th, 29th, or 30th. My friend (who isn't interested in cooking at all) is leaving on the 28th (earlier rather than later in the day, I think) so I have all those days to myself. I leave the evening of the 30th, so I'll probably be leaving Ubud around 4. I might even do cooking classes on all three days, just to give myself something interesting to do! (Or maybe throw a batik class in there somewhere.) The Wednesday class is taught by Janet De Neefe, the owner, so that might be a good class for everyone! You can find the menu for each day here.

Are you still interested in Ketut's Place? I seet ehy do their Balinese dinners on Sun, Weds, Fri. I don't think we will overlap a Sunday but Weds and Fri are open.

I'm still up for it, but am open to anything! Wednesday would probably be best, since I leave Friday.

Has anyone been here?

We will maybe or maybe not have the kids with us for the dinner, how child friendly are places like this in the evening? (the kids are 5, 8 and 9)

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Ketut's Place is almost more of a private dinner, I think. Or at least it used to be. By private, I mean you book the place with the appropriate number of people (minimum used to be 4 or 5 people), and they'll make dinner for you. It's not like a typical restaurant. From what I remember of Bali, the Balinese love kids, so I don't foresee bringing children to be a problem. I can check it out when I get there, though, and let you know.

[torakris]

plans will be carried to PM's....

anyone ever taken the cooking class at Casa Luna?

Any other must sees in Ubud (without the kids) as I will probably have the afternoon free until we meet my husband and kids for dinner.

[torakris]

Oh no I have messed up my dates!! I was thinking we were going to Lombok on Monday morning but it is actually Sunday morning.... This means we won't make it to the Balinese Buffet at Cafe Wayan.

So now I need a new place for dinner after our family day out in Ubud, I was thinking of Kafe Batan Waru as it was highly recommended int eh Lonely Planet guide.

Anyone been? Any other suggestions?

[torakris]

Oh no I have messed up my dates!! I was thinking we were going to Lombok on Monday morning but it is actually Sunday morning.... This means we won't make it to the Balinese Buffet at Cafe Wayan.

So now I need a new place for dinner after our family day out in Ubud, I was thinking of Kafe Batan Waru as it was highly recommended int eh Lonely Planet guide.

Anyone been? Any other suggestions?

←

Now I am torn between a regular dinner at Cafe Wayan, of dinner at Kafe Batan Waru and now Dirty Duck Diner (AKA Bebek Bengil 1).

Rona should be in Ubud now and I know you will be reading this soon!! If you try out any of these places let me know what you think.

Bebek Bengil 1 sounds like it is set amid beautiful scenery.

Whilst I had usually visited Bebek Bengil for lunch, a recent evening visit surprised me with the rustic charm of the place, footpath lights along all the ponds and waterways, extending almost out into the paddies. The new extension is almost in the paddies themselves. This is a very charming location.

(from the above site)

[nakji]

anyone ever taken the cooking class at Casa Luna?

A bit late to post this now, but I have. I though it was good - but not very hands on. The food was delicious. I went on a Wednesday, so the menu was lawar, Balinese satay, corn fritters (very yummy), gado gado, beans in coconut milk (my favourite, I think), and yellow rice. We also made a kind of fruit salad with a yummy sauce incorporating shrimp paste at the beginning. The chef talked a little about Balinese food and culture in the beginning, and the restaurant staff demo'd everything in front of us. The class was full, maybe ten or twelve people. We had the opportunity to learn how to use a Balinese mortar to pound the spice mixes, which was fun, but most of the actual prep was done by the staff. I can imagine, with large groups, that they must do this to keep everything running smoothly and on time. I find I don't learn much myself unless I actually make it from start to finish myself. It didn't compare favourably with a course I took in Thailand for the same price - the chef brought me to the market, we went through the recipes together, to decide what I was going to cook, and then I prepared three courses by myself!

It was definitely worth the experience, though, as you get a great meal at the end! If I ever figure out how to post pictures, I'll put one up from the class.

Torakris, I hope you had a great trip! We ate at the Kafe Batan Waru a couple of times, and it was delicious. I was underwhelmed by the Lotus Cafe - great view, but I didn't enjoy the food as much - maybe I got them on a bad night? (We also stayed at Oka Wati - isn't that funny?) Ubud was a very enjoyable place.....

...edited for typos..

Edited January 7, 2006 by nakji (log)

[prasantrin]

Kristin and I had reservations for the Wednesday cooking class (taught by Janet, the owner) at Casa Luna, but we were the only two who signed up so it was cancelled. We ended up at Bumbu Bali 2, which had no minimums for their class and required just 24 hours notice. Ketut was great. Again, not really a hands-on class, but good nonetheless. There were only two other people in the class, and we were able to ask a lot of questions. There was so much food, though! We left, stuffed, then had 6 or so hours to kill before attending the buffet at Ketut's Place (a different Ketut). We were still full by the time the buffet started, though, so I don't think either of us ate much there!

edited some mistyping

Edited January 8, 2006 by prasantrin (log)

[nakji]

What dishes did you make at Bumbu Bali?

edited for clarity

Edited January 7, 2006 by nakji (log)

[torakris]

I am slowly working on uploading my pictures and what a better place to start that than the Bumbu Bali 2 cooking class!

Though it wasn't very hands on we did get our hands dirty. I had a really great time and Ketut was very informative and answered all of our questions. I can't remember what we paid but it was in the $15 -$18 range and considering the food that we ate I would have paid that just for the meal.

I highly recommend this class to anyone staying in or passing through Ubud!

We started off sampling various foods

Ketut sliced off small pieces of almost everything on the plate so we could taste everyting in the raw state. Be warned: the fresh tumeric WILL stain everything it touches including your teeth and fingers!

We then went on to the Basa Gede (basic spice paste) that we continued to use in a variety of the other dishes. This consisted of shallots, garlic, red chilies, galangal, lesser galangal, tumeric,coriander seeds,candlenuts,shrimp paste, peppercorns, nutmeg, cloves, cumin, sesame seeds.

Next up was Sayur Urab (a vegetable and coconut salad), I can't remember all of the vegetbales we used but I think it was green beans, cabbage, bean sprouts and carrots. These were boiled then mixed with grated coconut, chiles and other seasonings.

Next was Tuna Sambal Matah, this was probably my favorite. Tuna steaks were marinated with lime salt and pepper and then seared, the the raw "topping" was made with chiles, shallots, lemongrass, ginger, salt, pepper, lime and oil all mixed together. I got my hands dirty on this one!

the finished dish

Tempe Manis (tempe with a sweet sauce), I had only eaten tempe once and didn't care for it so I wasn't very excited to see this on the menu. Wow, was I surprised this was really good and the tempe tasted nothing like the one I had purchased in Japan. This was a simple dish made just with palm sugar, garlic and chiles.

Next on the menu was Opor Ayam (chicken curry). This was seasoned with the basic spice paste and coconut milk.

Then my other favorite Sate Lilit (seasoned ground meat on a skewer), we all got our hands dirty on this one as well. This is probably one of my favorite dishes in all of Bali and I enjoyed many variations.

At the end he made a special dish for us that wasn't in the booklet, it was a prawn dish that he learned from his mother. This also used the basic spice paste as well as palm sugar, chiles, green peppers, onions ad kaffir lime leaves.

As the meal concluded we were served a cocktail made with the Balinese fermented rice wine.

The finale was Bubur Injin (black rice pudding) for dessert. I had eaten so much food I honestly thought I would not be able to eat this, but it must have found an empty corner of my stomach.

[nakji]

Wow, that all looks incredibly delicious - especially the prawn dish. I'm almost too embarrassed to post this picture I took at Casa Luna, after seeing the quality of your pictures. I'll have to work on my food photography.

Just a picture of my plate, before I tucked in. As you can see, we also made the satays, although I had already eaten one by the time I made it back to the table In the middle of the bowl is our yellow rice, in the front next to the satays is the gado-gado, and the green smudge in the back is the bean salad. All very yummy - now I tempted to take the Bumbu Bali class if I go back - it looks like you made completely different dishes.

Did you eat Babi Guling while you were there? When I came back from my cooking lesson, my husband showed me this picture he took at a local place. I was so disappointed he went without me! I didn't get another chance to go.

[prasantrin]

Did you eat Babi Guling while you were there? When I came back from my cooking lesson, my husband showed me this picture he took at a local place. I was so disappointed he went without me! I didn't get another chance to go.

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I think I ate at the same place. It was right next to Bumbu Bali 1 (on the same street that Ketut's Place is on), and near the palace. I have a picture of the sign, as well as the food, and the rear end of the pig they had just brought in. It was the best thing I ate in Bali. And contrary to what I had read about the skin on Babi Guling, this stuff was crisp and just plain awesome! And the meat was very juicy and flavourful. One of the best roast pigs I've ever eaten.

There was an odd sausage on the plate, though. Didn't like it too much. I think it might have been some kind of blood sausage. I can see it in your picture--top left there's a dark brown thing--I think that's it. I left mine mostly untouched.

If I ever get motivated enough to put my pictures into ImageGullet, I'll post them (or at least a link to to my Webshots album).

[nakji]

Ah, yes! That sounds like the one. My husband really enjoyed as well. I'm gnashing my teeth now, for having missed it.

I guess I'll have to go back.

[prasantrin]

I put up my food pictures on webshots. There aren't that many--I would either forget my camera or be eating something at which people would scorn (I can hear it now, "You went to Bali and ate that?").

Something that I wrote which I'll repeat here, Casa Luna really did have the best food I ate in Bali. They had the best balance of flavours, and always the freshest food. Bebek Bengil seemed to have a lot of food that perhaps had been sitting on the stove for too long, or had been reheated. At least that was the case when I ate there (twice--it was close to where I stayed). I have no pictures from Bebek, unfortunately.

[torakris]

If we ever go back to Bali, I think we are definitely going to stay in Ubud for at least a couple days. I think that most of the best meals I had were in this area and I really loved the quietness and slow pace.

Upthread Rona and I mentioned a Balinese feast we enjoyed at Ketut's Place in Ubud, I only took two pictures....

the buffet

my first trip to the buffet

One of my favorites was the coconut sate lillit, if I remember correctly it was made with 95% grated coconut and only 5% meat.

[torakris]

We decided to make another day trip to Ubud and had the most wonderful driver for the day, a man named Ketut.

We spent the morning walking around (and shopping) in Ubud and then drove up to Tegallalang and lunch at Kampung Cafe.

I had the nasi campur

while sitting on the open terrace gazing out over this