Keens Steakhouse

[SobaAddict70]

Keens expertly dry-ages its beef, which it serves in an array of cuts, all of them memorable and almost all of them mammoth: sirloin, filet mignon, prime rib, porterhouse for two, porterhouse for three.

A half chicken had been left on the rotisserie at least 10 minutes too long. A gigantic wedge of salmon had an impressively silken texture but a muffled flavor. (Was it really wild, as the menu claimed?) Fried calamari were a rubbery wreck.

Wow, a steakhouse I've never heard of.

I'll bet most of us haven't either.

Keens Steakhouse (Frank Bruni)

Click here for a discussion of Mr. Bruni's reviewing style and the New York Times star system.

Soba

[Sneakeater]

Hey you forgot to highlight the revelation that the famous mutton chop isn't really mutton. I suspected as much (it didn't TASTE like mutton). Is this something everybody knew but me?

[rich]

The last time I dined there was Oct. 23, 1912. The topic of discussion was how long it would take to build the Titanic (the announcemnet was made the week before). I had fabulous mutton - medium rare. The bottle of 1898 Mouton was enjoyable, but the talk of the table was the 1908 BV Burgundy from someplace called Napa in California.

[rich]

Hey you forgot to highlight the revelation that the famous mutton chop isn't really mutton.  I suspected as much (it didn't TASTE like mutton).  Is this something everybody knew but me?

←

Everyone but the sheep.

[Sneakeater]

The sheep are always the LAST to know.

[tommy]

Wow, a steakhouse I've never heard of.

I'll bet most of us haven't either. 

keens has been around for a hundred some-odd years or so. relatively well-known. especially to sports fans.

[oakapple]

keens has been around for a hundred some-odd years or so.  relatively well-known.  especially to sports fans.

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However, apparently this is its first rated review in the Times. (Where there has been a previous review, Bruni normally mentions it.)

[BryanZ]

I want to try the extreme lamb.

[Sneakeater]

It's good. But when I finally went there earlier this year to try it (after intending to for something like 25 years but never getting around to it), I got so hung up on how it didn't taste like mutton that I didn't get full enjoyment from it. Sorta shows why it's better to tell the truth than not to.

Edited December 14, 2005 by Sneakeater (log)

[tommy]

keens has been around for a hundred some-odd years or so.  relatively well-known.  especially to sports fans.

←

However, apparently this is its first rated review in the Times. (Where there has been a previous review, Bruni normally mentions it.)

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yes, apparently.

[steakas]

Keens to me serves one of the best steaks in Manhattan. I go for nothing else.

Edited December 15, 2005 by steakas (log)

[phaelon56]

Wow, a steakhouse I've never heard of.

I'll bet most of us haven't either. 

←

Isn't this the joint that has all the pipes stuck in the ceiling?

(as in pipes that one would smoke tobacco from)

When I worked in NYC a couple of my colleagues used to take people there for business dinners. They spoke highly of the steak and quite likely never ordered any other type of entrees.

[M.X.Hassett]

Isn't this the joint that has all the pipes stuck in the ceiling?

(as in pipes that one would smoke tobacco from)

yeh I think they claim it is the largest collection in the world

[oakapple]

Does Keens have dining at the bar?

[Sneakeater]

Yes.

[Nathan]

ah...but the real reason to go to Keens is the Scotch list.

[Sneakeater]

They have that at the bar, too.

It's a pretty good experience.

[oakapple]

Frank Bruni's review aroused my curiosity, so I dropped into Keens tonight to try that mutton chop.

I arrived around 6:45. The matre d' advised me that there would be no tables available in the dining room till 9:15, but I could put in my name for a pub table (where a full menu is served). I was advised there would be about a twenty-minute wait for that. I ordered a glass of cabernet at the bar, where the patrons were four-deep, and settled in.

Keens may have New York's best collection of single-malt scotches (they say they've got 200 of them). The bottles cut an impressive figure across the back wall of the bar. Naturally they're available individually, but Keens also offers "flights" of four contrasting scotches, which go for anywhere between $28 and $48. I wasn't in the mood for that tonight, but I'll probably sample them on a future visit.

Before I knew it, the hostess advised me there was a table in the main dining room after all. It had only been ten minutes.

I don't know if Bruni's review has influenced business, but I could see there were lots of people ordering "mutton chops" (which, as Frank has now told us, are actually lamb chops). Keens must have its own network of lamb purveyors, as I've never seen a cut anything like this before. Who else but Keens could be serving it?

While I waited for the legendary chop, I enjoyed the complimentary warm bread service and chilled vegetables with creamy dipping sauce. I also enjoyed staring at the massive collection of churchwarden pipes that adorned the ceiling.

The chop finally arrives. It looks massive, but this is a bit deceiving, as it's actually a T-bone, and the bone itself takes up a lot of space. After you savor a bit of the fat, you'll want to trim the rest away, leaving yourself with a substantial, but not unmanageable portion. Still, at two inches (or more) thick, with a peculiar wing shape, it's a meal to remember. Keens cooked mine superbly to medium rare, just as I'd asked. At $37.50, it's one of New York's better steakhouse bargains. (The chop came with sauteed escarole, which I didn't care for.)

As I was leaving, the hostess inquired about my meal, and remembered me by name. That was impressive, given the hundreds of people in the restaurant, and the fact we'd only spoken briefly. I look forward to returning, and trying more of the menu. Including those scotches.

[rich]

Frank Bruni's review aroused my curiosity, so I dropped into Keens tonight to try that mutton chop.

OA, did you dine alone? Only reason I'm asking is - did your companion (if any) have the same meal or try something else?

I haven't been to Keens in about 20 years, but the lamb was always my favorite (thought is was the best in NYC). Didn't think the steak was great, but that was a long time ago, things change. I alwys managed to try a new scotch when I went.

Maybe time to make a special visit.

[Eatmywords]

At $37.50, it's one of New York's better steakhouse bargains. (The chop came with sauteed escarole, which I didn't care for.)

Oak, I see there's a $24 Mutton chop on the Pub menu. Any info? Is it just a smaller cut?

[oakapple]

OA, did you dine alone? Only reason I'm asking is - did your companion (if any) have the same meal or try something else?

I dined alone.

Oak,  I see there's a $24 Mutton chop on the Pub menu.  Any info? Is it just a smaller cut?

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I noticed that too. I haven't checked, but it almost certainly must be a smaller cut, because they also offer the full restaurant menu in the pub.

[Bux]

The last time I dined there was Oct. 23, 1912. The topic of discussion was how long it would take to build the Titanic (the announcemnet was made the week before). I had fabulous mutton - medium rare. The bottle of 1898 Mouton was enjoyable, but the talk of the table was the 1908 BV Burgundy from someplace called Napa in California.

←

I was there more recently, but I also know that was well before Luchow closed. They've always struck me as being of the same time. Of course Keen's closed for a while, but if I'm not mistaken, it's still in its original location. Even for a steakhouse, it's seemed to be off the foodie circuit. Bravo to Bruni for looking at it for us, although I suppose every restaurant reviewed means other restaurants are overlooked, especially as they review only one a week. I take that back, bravo to Bruni for his occasional duo reviews.

[oakapple]

I returned to Keens last night with two companions who were eager to try an authentic New York steakhouse. I started with the House-Cured Salmon, which was wonderful.

Last time at Keens, I tried the mutton chop, which I loved. I'm sure I'll have it again someday, but in the interest of science, I wanted to sample something else. I would have chosen the porterhouse (available for 2 or 3 people), but my companions prefer filet to strip. So I ordered the T-bone ($42), while they ordered the Chateaubriand for two ($90).

The T-bone was correctly prepared to the medium rare that I'd requested, although I like a crisp char on the exterior that is apparently not in Keens' repertoire. My companions declared the Chateaubriand "best steak we've ever had." It was one of the largest hunks of beef I've ever seen on one plate. I tasted a bit of it, but their preference for well done steaks renders my opinion irrelevant, as I like to see blood on the plate.

To finish, we shared (but could not finish) an order of bread pudding, which was terrific, but more than we had room for.

[Sneakeater]

I was really in the mood for roast beef, and figured Keen's would be a good bet. I wasn't disappointed.

I ate at the bar and had the pub-sized "English cut" (as opposed to the larger cut on the regular menu, also available at the bar). All you can say about a prime rib is whether it was good or not; this was excellent.

There was a very credible Margaux by the glass to go with it. (And, of course, a scotch.)

Frank Bruni has many faults as a restaurant reviewer, but I think he did us all a service by installing this excellent spot back into our concious minds.

This was the first time I've ever not ordered the "mutton" chop at Keen's. It was rewarding. Next time, the mixed grill.

Edited May 8, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[wannabechef]

Heading to Keens tonight. Haven't been there in a year or two and I can't decide what to get. I've had the "mutton" chop 2 or 3 times. I like it -but have grown tired of it actually. It stopped impressing me after the 2nd time and to be honest I think its slightly overrated. I also had one of the steak cuts there before, which also was good, but didn't overly excite me.

So I'm coming up with a plan of attack for tonight. I'm thinking of being radical and getting the prime rib - something I usually don't order at steakhouses (I miss the char). Is it really great? Also, what about the other lamb chops on the menu? Whats the difference between those and the mutton chop? If I want to go with a steak cut, which is the best? I think I had the porterhouse last time.

Finally - are the scotch flights worth it?

thanks,

~WBC