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THE BEST: Sushi in Manhattan


James Kessler

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What does everyone think of Jewel Bako?  That place seems to have peaked my interest recently.  I've never been there.

I had my most memorable and enjoyable NY sushi experience at JB about two years ago. Subsequent visits (post-expansion/renovation) have been mediocre at best.

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I put Esashi up there because it's way downtown east village, but of a diamond in the rough, but I had an extremely good meal there -

Esashi (Avenue A and 3rd St.) is our go-to place, as it's within walking distance. Always have very good fish here, properly sized and great value...they usually have a few items that go beyond the standard fare.

Before moving downtown, our sushi of choice was Tsuko, on 1st Avenue around 74th St. Always impeccably fresh fish, beautifully served. It's definitely more than it looks from the outside. And their pizza "sushi" is delicious and fun as well.

Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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Before moving downtown, our sushi of choice was Tsuko, on 1st Avenue around 74th St.  Always impeccably fresh fish, beautifully served.  It's definitely more than it looks from the outside.  And their pizza "sushi" is delicious and fun as well.

weinoo is talking about Tsuki, a great spot on the UES. I wouldn't necessarily consider it in the same league as my favorite spots (in terms of quality), but it seems to be consistent.

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weinoo is talking about Tsuki, a great spot on the UES. 

Yes, he is! :biggrin: Thanks for the correction, peter_nyc.

May not be in the same league, but always consistent and great price/value.

Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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Yasuda is about twice as expensive as say Ushiwakamaru, for sushi that in my opinion isn't as good.  Yasuda is also a bit more expensive than Seki, and Seki is also a better sushi place.  Yasuda is at least partly about marketing, it has a nice web site, fresh blond wood etc.  If you speak Japanese and see Yasuda yell at his staff at they break things down at the end of the night, you'll understand what I mean.  Yasuda is a place built for Americans who like a nice atmosphere. 

Not sure what you're suggesting when you say, "If you speak Japanese and see Yasuda yell at his staff at they break things down at the end of the night, you'll understand what I mean."

I understand that you're opinion of Sushi Yasuda is not entirely based on the sentiment expressed in this comment, but to dismiss a restaurant because it's chef yells at his or her staff or because it has a Web site is silly and shows the same prejudice against sushi as the common "I'm not paying this much for Chinese food" shows against that cuisine. No one would suggest that Daniel Boulud was anything less than a great chef because he spends $100,000 a year on flowers and has a slick Web site. Yasuda's Web site was written by one of the owners, someone who loves sushi, believes in what Yasuda is doing, and wants to promote something in which he has a stake. That the place is attractive has nothing to do with the quality of the fish and rice. You prefer other sushi bars, and that is that.

I've been to Ushi and Tsuki, but for my money, I'd much rather go to Yasuda. I know we've had this discussion before, but Yasuda is not nearly as expensive as it is often assumed to be. Ordering per piece at Tsuki brings slightly larger pieces of fish for more or less the same price as the same fish is at Yasuda, where the quality of the fish and rice are, in my opinion, much better. Also, I think Kuruma is excellent, but the size of the fish and the rice is less to my taste than those qualities at Yasuda. Masa may serve great sushi, but I wonder whether you could go there and have a meal of just sushi? I doubt it, so I consider it more of a modern kaiseki place than a sushi bar that deserves consideration here.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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Also, as I've noticed people mentioning that they've brought such and such Japanese friend to this or that sushi bar: The average Japanese diner is no more qualified to recognize good sushi than the average America diner is to judge great French or New American food. It is that person's experience that matters. Raji is not Japanese (I don't think :smile:), yet he seems to have eaten at a lot of great sushi places. That's why his opinions have weight.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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The average Japanese diner is no more qualified to recognize good sushi than the average America diner is to judge great French or New American food. It is that person's experience that matters.

Thank you I was waiting for someone more eloquent then myself to state this point.

and see Yasuda yell at his staff at they break things down at the end of the night,

As to chefs yelling at staff, well if you dismiss it for that reason you might as well dimiss a number/majority of all great restaurants. The chefs at the top of the game are incredibly passionate as any great artist is, that does not mean that after service everyone doesnt crack open a beer and relax.

Back on topic: Yasuda gets my vote for the Best in my limited sushi experience.

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Also, as I've noticed people mentioning that they've brought such and such Japanese friend to this or that sushi bar: The average Japanese diner is no more qualified to recognize good sushi than the average America diner is to judge great French or New American food. It is that person's experience that matters. Raji is not Japanese (I don't think :smile:), yet he seems to have eaten at a lot of great sushi places. That's why his opinions have weight.

:cool::biggrin:

I agree with you to a certain extent, that a foodie is a foodie! And, I'm not Japanese at all (lived there recently), but fluent in the language and culture, and as a foodie, Japanese is one of my specialities. You won't see me weigh in on French or Greek because I'll be the first to admit those aren't my targets.

However, how much would you value the opinion of a Japanese tourist telling you where he just had a good hamburger? (many of whom eat them with a fork and knife)

Hate to get even more cerebral about FOOD, but here we go, and keep in mind we are talking about upper echelon sushi here, not going to get some rolls and a wasabi buzz...

I think naturally your average native Japanese person can discern better sushi than your average American diner...but I think this speaks more to a desire for authenticity and quality of fish and preparation and rice. It's just a matter of lifelong experience. My palette changed living there and, after a week or so, when I go back, it still does. However, that same Japanese person might never appreciate the amazing pizza I am feeding him or her, and might not be a gourmet whatsoever.

So you are right, in that there are just as many people who can discern good food here as there are there, but statistically, you are wrong, in that you are probably a lot safer taking the advice of a native on this one. Now, I am a rampant foodie multiplied by various immersions in Japanese culture, so my radar is even better than most Japanese, believe it or not. But, it also took years to develop that.

Now, as for going with a native, I think there is a general perception that you'll have a better meal that way.

Sushi is one of few foods you get prepared right in front of you. Sushi chefs can be very complex people. I won't name names but I can tell you that certain top NYC sushi chefs have told me that they'll even serve an inferior end of the same kind of fish to a table of customers who they don't think can appreciate the difference between that and the better cut will go to customers who they think WILL appreciate the difference. This is the exception to the rule but it happens; it may not be professional but when you pay as much as they do for the fish, I guess it can be understandable. We are all foodies if we're here but we also must admit that most NYC sushi places are flooded by gastrological tourists of Japanese food who often go for quantity rather than quality. At the same time, most chefs are in America for a reason, sometimes can't stand their oft-picky fellow Japanese, and wouldn't discriminate like that, but can also certainly tell from your order if you know your shit or not.

A lot of Japanese sushi chefs also see their sacred art being bastardized in the form of generic "Asians" marauding as authentic Sushi restaurants, or the the inclusion of things like the spicy tuna or the boston roll. If you've trained for years and years at perfecting yourself at something like this, this alone can be very discouraging. Now it's NY and we're a melting pot, and that's also supply and demand for you. Even Yasuda was mentoring an American dude. But I think many are not expecting a non-Japanese to know their stuff. Hence I open my mouth, because many sushi chefs are pretty stubborn about refusing to speak English.

The biggest difference may be that most Americans order off the menu while most Japanese order "omakase" and thus begins a bit more of a journey with the sushi chef. Usually I'll tell him I don't eat the shrimp unless it's amaebi and then name the shellfish I avoid. If I'm paying those kind of dollars I want to use them well. Now 9 times out of 10, at this point, the question will come out why do I speak Japanese so well, and thus begins an additional conversation where he gets to know me a bit. Does this mean I get fed better than the guy next to me? I dunno but it certainly can't hurt that I can appreciate the intricacies of his work.

My Japanese associates will often ask a lot of questions about where the fish came from and what season it is. 10 minutes can often be eaten up talking about a remote part of Japan where this particular fish breeds. Japan is an island nation and your average Japanese knows hundreds of kinds of fish more than your average American. They just don't know what they are called in English if the name exists at all. So if you are ever wondering about what all the yapping is about, there you go.

Now don't take my post as being sushi snobbery, I think I am a bit more like Japanese who don't eat sushi daily or even weekly. It's more like a steak which you might be in the mood for every month. But I'm always accomodating of the company I'm with, so sometimes I'm at the bar, sometimes not, and it's not like I'm going to laugh at somebody for ordering a spicy tuna, there's a reason it's so popular.

So if you've scrolled all the way down, now you know how passionate I am about sushi and Japanese food in general, and the point of this post was, if you want it done properly, I am available to accompany you to any of the top places, free of charge! :raz:

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Back on topic: Yasuda gets my vote for the Best in my limited sushi experience.

I tend to agree with you here, this makes Yasuda even better - ou don't have to be a nut like me to have a consistently great experience there. We wouldn't be all here discussing it if there wasn't so much mystique surrounding Sushi, and that place in particular is low on the mystique and very high on the quality. Other places can be intimidating, especially when the check arrives!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, Raji. I think I need to go out for sushi with you, just to learn about everything I've been missing! I can certainly understand and agree with all of your points about culture, language and other factors affecting one's experience at a sushi bar. It kind of makes me wonder what level of quality I've been enjoying all this time.

So far, a quick rudimentary scan at the results of this thread seem to suggest that the overwhelming majority vote is swaying towards Yasuda. Doesn't that seem true?

When I get the chance, I'm heading to Yasuda. That settles it. I've gotta see what I'm missing.

-James Kessler

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You're welcome!

I reconvened with some people who I would consider experts on the field. Japanese but also business-owners in Manhattan, meaning, peers aren't going to BS them. The consensus is, for tuna and toro, kurumazushi takes the cake. For overall sushi, Yasuda takes the cake, but, among Japanese, they can't take his attitude!!!! We Americans don't mind but they do. Sans attitude, Gari still takes the cake.

That said, unless you are an A-hole I don't think you are being served inferior sushi. Next time, go to one of the above, and let it slip that you are from the magazine "New Yorker"

Japanese food is transcendental and I just had another experience at Sugiyama - check the thread!~

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  • 4 months later...

Best Traditional Sushi: Sushi Yasuda

Best Non-Traditional Sushi: Sushi Seki

Best Omakase: Kuruma Zushi

Sushi Seki is open until 3AM everyday but Sunday which is a big plus in my eyes. To have a great meal you need to sit at the Sushi Bar(you need a reservation usually unless its late-night). They have many amazing things which are not on the menu. Ask for Chopped Toro Sushi, Spicy Scallop Handroll, Chopped Eel w/ Avocado Sushi, Yellowtail Sushi with Jalapeno, Snow Crab Handrolls, Snapper w/ Sea Salt. Ordering A-La-Carte is a much better value than ordering Omakase. As a side note, Seki is Chinese yet speaks Japanese and really cares about his food. Normally, I dont like Chinese sushi chefs but I make an exception for Seki.

Sushi Yasuda wins for fish selection and overall authenticity. They are by far the most traditional and if a zen like traditional sushi meal is what you crave than Yasuda is for you. Though I must admit that I found the chef to be quite stubborn and crass at times. While I have been to Japan many times and am fully aware of traditional eating customs I was 'scolded' by the chef for mixing a bit of wasabi into my soy sauce. So much for the quote on their website that reads "There is no right or wrong way to eat sushi — the important thing is to enjoy your meal.". That being said, I will continue to return to Yasuda regularly.

Kuruma Zushi is a very intimate and also quite authentic as well. If you are prepared to spend big bucks and are the type to plan a meal and make reservations in advance than Kuruma might just be the place for you. Its an Omakase meal there and you are guaranteed to get lots of personal attention. Im more of a spontaneous/eat & run type so the previous two places are more my style.

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Dined at Yasuda recently. Fish quality, texture and taste were completely sublime. Tuna and Uni were particular standouts. Piece-by-piece I would say it beats out any sushi I've ever seen or tasted. The experience left me figuratively and literally hungry for more. Next stop on my sushi-obsessed train is Karuma Zushi. I'll report back after I can make a comparison. That post will appear on the Yasusa vs. Karuma thread. I possibly think it's safe to say that Yasuda probably has on an INDIVIDUAL PIECE basis, the best traditional sushi in Manhattan. I'll let you know if my theory holds up after my next trip. Thanks to all of you, and especially to Raji for the valuable advice.

-James Kessler

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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought Yasuda was good, but not a place I would go back to again after 2 visits. Yasuda apparently isn't too friendly to japanese clients, in comparison to the ways he treats non-Japanese. I rather goto Ushiwakamaru, even though getting a table is next to impossible without planning ahead these days.

I haven't been to Gari, but I have a friend who work there who say it's pretty ehhh.

Jewel Bako that place went down hill what happened there? I heard the original chef is working at some midtown steakhouse with a sushi bar.

I have yet to find a place in nyc anyway nearly as good as Sushi Dai in Tsukiji, have not tried Karuma, or Masa. Friendly service, amazing fish selection, the level of freshness, warm freshly made tamago, and oh the 35 dollar omakase price tag. Well there is the 3 hour wait.

Raji, do you have any recommendations for places in Fukuoka, or Sapporo?

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I thought Yasuda was good, but not a place I would go back to again after 2 visits.  Yasuda apparently isn't too friendly to japanese clients, in comparison to the ways he treats non-Japanese.  I rather goto Ushiwakamaru, even though getting a table is next to impossible without planning ahead these days.

nihonjin?

I haven't been to Gari, but I have a friend who work there who say it's pretty ehhh.

Seki was from Gari, so go to Seki. It's great!

Jewel Bako that place went down hill what happened there?  I heard the original chef is working at some midtown steakhouse with a sushi bar.

Really? I've never been there, just read that since the expansion it went downhill.

I am ever-wary of East Village sushi. Most east village Japanese food appeals to the younger hipster set, the more salty fatty palette, and rarely uses quality ingredients...

That all said, my total sleeper is Esashi on Avenue A at about 4th? Totally great sushi as you might expect at a top midtown place.

I have yet to find a place in nyc anyway nearly as good as Sushi Dai in Tsukiji, have not tried Karuma, or Masa.  Friendly service, amazing fish selection, the level of freshness, warm freshly made tamago, and oh the 35 dollar omakase price tag.  Well there is the 3 hour wait.

Raji, do you have any recommendations for places in Fukuoka, or Sapporo?

I've never been to SushiDai! I was taken to Tsukiji by an upper Director of Tokyo government, but we didn't go to eat for some reason!

I've never been to Sapporo or Fukuoka but I know that Hokkaido in general is a great sashimi destination. All that Northern Atlantic fish, it's just gotta be.

I've only traveled for the most part west, although the sashimi that I had in Niigata was GREAT!

This year I'll make it out to Osaka again.

Asking your Japanese friends to go to eat sushi is like your friend from out of town here asking to go out with you for a porterhouse for 2. It's not something they do often at all. Those Americans who do, eat more sushi than Japanese, it's really strange.

Edited by raji (log)
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The original superstar chef at Jewel Bako moved on (long before the expansion) to open a sushi bar that comprised the upstairs portion of a brasserie that opened on 59th & 3rd a couple of years ago. I have no idea if he's still there.

Edited by Sneakeater (log)
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No, it was a (French) brasserie with a sushi bar. Might still be there for all I know (although I'd be surprised if the superstar sushi chef were still there).

It was/is in the space that used to house a pasta place called Contrapasta (or something like that).

Edited by Sneakeater (log)
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(For the little it's worth, thinking it over, I'm pretty sure the brasserie/sushi bar I was talking about was/is on 3rd & 60th [not 59th].  Sorry.)

It's Brasserie 360, which is still open but Kazuo Yoshida is now at Geisha I think. He was, at least.

"If it's me and your granny on bongos, then it's a Fall gig'' -- Mark E. Smith

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  • 1 month later...

Well after all that reading and raji comments i will try Yasuda, i will only be one week to NY so i will just make one test ;)

I think raji long post was nice to read and helps to understand the way of thinking of sushi chef's and i can understand their way of thinking, it's like when i see foreigners that want to test a Paella and ask me where is the seafood OMG!!!! to this people i won't really make my best dish, i can be wrong but it's a way of work that some can like and some other won't.

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