Recent dining in Paris

[PaulaJK]

We returned last week from a week in Paris. This trip, we decided

to try all new-to-us restaurants. This didn't particularly work for

us, whether due to our choices or to an here-to-fore unidentified

need to return.

I have noted our dinner at Jamin under Lunch at Jamin...

and added on to the Comptoir de Relais topic.

Our two upscale choices were Pre Catalan & Le Bristol, neither of

which did we enjoy with the pleasure of Carre des F. and Guy Savoy

or the rapture & excitement of Le Meurice and Le Grand Vefour.

Nor did we leave appreciating the solidly gracious service and

traditional cuisine of a Taillevent.

We took no notes & have no copies of menus....so this is mostly

imprecise description & limitied detail...and of course, only our opinions.

Le Bristol; We 'knew' that we had chosen the 'right' spot when we

opened the hotel door...a wonderfully pretty & gracious lobby....

onto the bar, a very pretty room, where my FLAT kir royale

was replaced by a bubbling one and my husband's vermouth laden

martini replaced by one closer to his request. A plate of four

interesting mini amuses accompanied our drinks. About halfway

through these drinks, we decided to move to the diningroom. The bar

staff stated that they would send the drinks immediately.

The Bristol winter diningroom is lovely...warm woods, crystal chandeliers,

beautiful flowers & table settings......We waited quite a while for our

drinks...which apparently had been discarded because after consultation

w. the maitre d' who 'looked into' this, we were told that they were on

the way...when in fact we rec'd new ones. Life could be worse, of course.

During this 15 minute interlude no water was offered because the order

is taken w. the wine order. An attempt to get some seemed to irritate

our sullen sommelier.

Eventually---and still in a quite positive mood--we began the

menu degustation. The amuse was a small pot of cockles

covered w. artichoke puree and a creamy froth..not bad but a

bit unusual. The 1st course was the signature mini [think thumb nail]

truffled baba & the stuffed chicken wing tip. Hot broth is poured

into this dish,melting the reblochon cheese which floats about.

Also in the dish is a small pine branch/ inedible I assume. We

did not like this dish & left most of it .

Next, a large, warmed oyster in its shell w. top replaced

on one dish and a large portion of raw/marinated scallops

topped w. oyster sorbet in another...delivered w. the advice

to lift the shell top and taste the warm w. the cold. I who like

oysters & [hot] scallops just couldn't embrace this dish.....the

maitre d' expressed his sorrow that I wasn't enjoying my meal!..

but didn't offer more than regrets.

The turbot fillet had mussel broth poured on it...and was

quite delicious . I have forgotten the meat course. The cheese

cart is marvellously grand but the slices are tres petite.

The desserts were the most interesting part of the meal.

First there was a mango sorbet w. diced pineapple served in

clio martini glass w. dry ice smoking below. Kind of catering

hall presentation, but delicious. A decadent chocolate mousse

like cake w. candy disk top was accompanied by a cup of

what I will call hot chocolate. A waiter appeared in white gloves

to shave a chocolate truffle over its surface! I found this affected

for a starred restaurant.

One wonders why they bother they bother rolling over a

candy cart ...From the 6 or 8 jars I requested only the

caramels...they placed 2 on my plate. Lest I be paranoid, a

man at the next table selected some small chocolate [?covered

coffee bean] and they placed two of these petite creatures on

his plate.

The room was crowded w. service personnel....but service

was not of the finest. They seemed to be so busy pouring

broths and lifting lids.....bread service lagged. The sommelier

[not the only one in the room] dud not keep up with either

water or wine. When my husband finally poured the water,

the sommelier appeared and asked sourly if he wanted his pin,

tugging at it in his lapel! Actually, my husband could have done a better job........

BIG tariff for a poor service and cuisine that I didn't find

memorable.

Tomorrow./..Pre Catalan

[molto e]

Paula,

I am sorry that you had that experience at Le Bristol. That is not the experience that we had or a few of the posts about there since then. When we sat down we were immediately offered an apertif and water and I was given all the mignardises that I wanted.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[John Talbott]

During this 15 minute interlude no water was offered because the order

is taken w. the wine order. An attempt to get some seemed to irritate

our sullen sommelier.

←

I too am sorry you had a bad experience; not to beat a very dead horse again, but I do think that when folks such as Frechon + Catherine move from places with three staff members and 20-28 covers to big establishments, something is lost. I don't want to attribute everything to the cultural differences in the classic training of French wait-staff and their self-perception as professionals versus the "My name is Bruce, normally I'm an actor and this is my first day so I don't know everything" attitude of American staff. There is undoubtedly a "way of doing things," some of which, such as greeting you warmly even if they don't know you, sweeping the table after the cheese dish and taking the water and wine requests at the same time - are part of the ritual and usually pleasant. Americans, not wanting to spring for four glasses of champagne as an apertif when a full bottle at 25% the price would make much more sense or wanting some water or even (horrors) a bottle of, not glasses of, wine before ordering (yes, yes I know the rationale behind the practice), while they wait for the rest of their party to show up, or ordering two entrees (firsts) instead of a first and main - find the conventions rigid and silly if not stupid.

We should probably start a new thread on these sorts of cultural culinary differences, given our binational and bicoastal composition. It could generate some lively historical and sociological discussions.

In any case, my solution to these issues is simple - I play the American naif, struggling to speak French but knowlegeable of the conventions (play to type I say); thus while awaiting a French couple who always have a great excuse for being late, I simply say "I know this is a bit bizarre, but I'd like to......." You have established that: (1) you're different from them, (2) you're struggling to learn but (3) you have confidence in their flexibility dealing with strange requests. By the way I've used the same technique with rigid American conference organizers - e.g., "this is a really strange request and I know your place doesn't normally do it but I have great confidence in you and am sure you alone can do it."

[Felice]

    The room was crowded w. service personnel....but service

was not of the finest. They seemed to be so busy pouring

broths and lifting lids.....bread service lagged. The sommelier

[not the only one in the room] dud not keep up with either

water or wine. When my husband finally poured the water,

the sommelier appeared and asked sourly if he wanted his pin,

tugging at it in his lapel! Actually, my husband could have done a better job........

BIG tariff for a poor service and cuisine that I didn't find

memorable.

   

Wow, I''m sorry you had a bad experience. The service was one of the things that impressed me the most at the Bristol. I found it to be very professional, but also warm and genuine.

[grace3]

I, too, am surprised. I found Le Bristol service to only be excelled by the lovliness of the place!!

Perhaps, as mentioned, some may have been the cultural difference.

Joan

[molto e]

Wow, I''m sorry you had a bad experience.  The service was one of the things that impressed me the most at the Bristol.  I found it to be very professional, but also warm and genuine.

←

I was throughly impressed with the service as well. They anticipated our requests perfectly and bread service was not an issue at all. As you know any restaurant can have an off night, unfortuately you ran into one. I still would highly recommend Le Bristol as Felice, Mayur, Joan and others have had a great experience there. I regard that meal as one of my all time favorites.

Molto E

Edited December 6, 2005 by molto e (log)

[degusto]

I went to Bristol a little more than 6 months ago and the meal was good but certainly not worth the money. Service was impeccable and Jerome, the sommelier knows what he is doing. The food was overall on pretty average 2-star standard, monotonous and lacking a dimension even if the desserts were real highlights. My review of it is here. I also ate under Frechon in his earlier restaurant and while it was a pleasurable place to eat, it was clearly not a venue for great food.

A restaurant can have a night off, but my objection against the food at le Bristol is a much more fundamental one. The cuisine lacks a respect for the ingredients and a respect for serving the most pristine ingredients.

[getxo]

A restaurant can have a night off, but my objection against the food at le Bristol is a much more fundamental one. The cuisine lacks a respect for the ingredients and a respect for serving the most pristine ingredients.

←

Them's Fightin' words, degusto.

Care to elaborate?

I'm sure Eric Frechon would not take these charges sitting down.

[John Talbott]

A restaurant can have a night off, but my objection against the food at le Bristol is a much more fundamental one. The cuisine lacks a respect for the ingredients and a respect for serving the most pristine ingredients.

←

Them's Fightin' words, degusto.

Care to elaborate?

I'm sure Eric Frechon would not take these charges sitting down.

←

OK all, just recall that we operate under the "Marquis of Queensberry rules"

[PaulaJK]

I am aware of the very positive reviews on this board.....and

many of the fabulous photos....In fact, they inspired us to choose

le Bristo for this special occassionl!! We were there on a Sunday

evening and while this is not an excuse at this level, perhaps it

contributed to the shakey service. Or perhaps everything got off track

after the the drinks-from-the-bar confusion [clearly, a simple mistake].

I still find our particular sommelier's service to be substandard.

Anyway, I think I will conclude that Frechon's cuisine may

not be for us but will continue to enjoy other people's

reports & photos.

Out of curiosity...did anyone else have this signature first course?

It must be well rec'd to have become so designated. A floating

pine branch???

[PaulaJK]

I'm not certain if you were implying that we had cultural

differences............We had a cocktail at the bar........It

was the very pleasant barman who suggested transferring

it to the diningroom. We ordered bottled water & a bottle

of wine........& the menu degustation.

We didn't grouse, complain or make negative comments

and always say please or thank you....in passable french.

[degusto]

A restaurant can have a night off, but my objection against the food at le Bristol is a much more fundamental one. The cuisine lacks a respect for the ingredients and a respect for serving the most pristine ingredients.

←

Them's Fightin' words, degusto.

Care to elaborate?

I'm sure Eric Frechon would not take these charges sitting down.

←

You may read my review, the link to which is in my above post. Several preparations were not respectful of the ingredients, such as a seabass completely masked by forceful tandoori powder that it had been heavily dusted with, truffles that were masked by smoke e t c. Ingredients were not in the pristine condition or of the quality I expect for the prices they charge. That should simply never happen.

[paulbrussel]

Went there once for dinner, in May 2002 (so I do admit: it is a long time ago).

Unfortunately I was not impressed at all: not by the food and certainly not by the service. They dared to put me as a single diner in the middel of the huge dining room, although almost no one else was there.

Remarks were not appreciated.

Food (I took the simpliest menu) was not impressive either. There was no harmony, somte times dominancy of one part of the dish over the main ingredient, repetition of ingredients (quite a few tomatoes in different dishes).

And by the way, I did speak French (nevertheless, the servers spoke either French or English to me; I always had to wait what language they would use, and how to adjust to them).

Edit: this poor experience never made me come back.

Edited December 7, 2005 by paulbrussel (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Eventually---and still in a quite positive mood--we began the

menu degustation. The amuse was a small pot of cockles

covered w. artichoke puree and a creamy froth..not bad but a

bit unusual. The 1st course was the signature mini [think thumb nail]

truffled baba & the stuffed chicken wing tip. Hot broth is poured

into this dish,melting the reblochon cheese which floats about.

Also in the dish is a small pine branch/ inedible I assume. We

did not like this dish & left most of it.

With these portion sizes, I find it laughable that you could have left anything! It must have been truly distasteful...

Actually, my husband could have done a better job........

BIG tariff for a poor service and cuisine that I didn't find

memorable.

←

Sorry you had such a bad experience - if this is the norm, then I'm glad I escaped a similar fate when I didn't make it on my latest trip to Paris.... eagerly await your Le Pre Catalan report! Hope it fairs (much) better!

U.E.

P.S. Will agree with your raves on Carre des Feuillants!

[PaulaJK]

Stopping in the woods on a snowy evening........

Paris was sparkling from its dusting of snow but soon we

left the city lights behind and were embraced by the deep

and dark Bois de Boulogne. The sighting of the theatrically

lighted Le Pre Catalan, standing alone in this darkness had

an almost magical feel. Warm greetings extended from

doorman to maitre d'.

If I ever inherited a [former] hunting lodge, I would want

it decorated like the magnificant diningroom here........wood

burning fireplace & mantle, elegant floral arrangements,

art work and one side mostly structured w. windows [must

be beautiful in spring & summer]. I was surprised at the

# of children in this room, ranging from toddler in arms

through teens with at least 4 under 8 y.o. Happily, the

little ones soon fell asleep and the others were a compliment

to their parents influences. In no way did they present any

disturbance. I was also surprised at the casual attire with one

man in dungarees, another in a crewneck sweater sans shirt,etc.

No doubt they were designer jeans as this restaurant is pricey.

Service personnel were numerous and quietly bustling

here & there. I came away from this trip with some doubts

about the desirability of balletic removal of silver cloches!

As this was our first visit here, we decided on the menu

degustation ..which was extensive. Our coupes of champagne

were accompanied by 3 types of glaceed nuts, untried by us.

The amuse was creme legere de cepes, a seasonal item which

reappeared during this trip from bistros to etoiles.

I very much enjoyed the first couse[ l"Estrille, I think] which was

a warm small bowl of frothed crab soup. This course had a dramatic

presentation both because the accompanying teaspoon contained

cream & caviar and because the 2nd component of this course

was a rectangular black tile carrying a small crab shell, stuffed

w. chilled crab salad & jellied. We were instructed to eat the

warm first, then the cold. I would have appreciated my soup

to be warmer than 'tepid' but really enjoyed this course.

Next was a large plate w. 5 very thin slices of warm betterave..

each slice covered w. an equally thin piece of cheese which was

slightly melted. A slice of winter truffle was tucked in between.

Perfectly turned scallops [2] accompanied by a poured frothy

sauce [i am convinced that the cloches and pours are causing

the chaotic service!] .....tasty but not special.

langoustine ravioli, sweet in their paper thin dough and

sweetly simple filling...w..poured frothy sauce

turbot fillet wrapped in lettuce...cooked perfectly...frothy mussel

broth poured on it upon serving..quite delicious

This course confused me. Two finger size strips of lovely,

rare pigeon were presented ...but a pigeon broth was poured

on top of them....why bother to roast something. If I had

seen this broth coming, I would have shouted non.

The cheese chariot was excellent.

The first dessert was a small, warm baked apple w. creme fraiche, accompanied by apple sorbet.

The second dessert was an absolutely delicious warm chocolate tart....

not particularly original but again, delicious.

All evening I had seen a wonderful chariot of after dinner candies

being rolled by.......but since THEY select a plate of them & serve

you this, why bother w. the chariot?

A far more pleasant evening than le Bristol. No one could possibly leave hungry! It was a very fine dinner, nicely served.........but I don't think that

the cuisine is exciting or stunning.

Incidentally, when we were considering ordering a la carte, once

again for this trip we noted a small [4] offering of meat main courses.....

pigeon, pheasant, lievre royale and kidneys/sweetbreads. I know it's

game season and I enjoy much of it but whether in bistro or etoile,

we mostly found an absence of beef, veal, chicken and lamb entrees--

to a degree we've never noted before.

at

[ulterior epicure]

paulajk.

thanks for the report... to be honest, i was a little underwhelmed by your experience... i was hoping for fireworks...

very happy for you that it improved upon your earlier disappointment at le bristol!

u.e.

Edited December 7, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)

[PaulaJK]

On the less starry nights we enjoyed:

1. Les Ormes....The former Le Bellecour was a personal

favorite and we were eager to experience this restaurant

under its new ownership. The room appear quite the

same [warm shades of maize] but without the enormous

floral arrangement that used to sit mid room. It was a cold

night in Paris. We were seated at a front [street side]

banquette where the draft was absolutely freezing my legs.

The wall next to me was icy cold; they need to remedy this.

We asked to change to a warmer table. In a blink Madame

brought a space heater and plugged it in, aiming at my legs.

They eventually thawed and we went on to enjoy the evening.

Madame and her assistant are warm and considerate .I thought

that the menu was more limited than I recall but perhaps someone

will recall better than I. There were 4 starters [terrine of sanglier

en brioche, a soup, a salad and langoustines w. black trumpet

mushrooms. We both chose the latter and enjoyed the dish.

There were 3 fish offered [sole, morue & scallops] and 4 meats

[lievre a la royale, pied de cochon, a combination of ris & rognons

& jarret de veau]. Again, no veal, lamb, chicken or beef. We chose

the jarret, a signature dish. It was a generous portion, excellent tasting

and accompanied by ethereal gnocchi. Desserts were

creme brulee, cheese w autumn fruits and a warm chocolate cake.

2.Dominique Bouchet....We really enjoyed this evening. The room

is long, warmly decorated in tones of beige w. sand colored stone

& bricks on one wall. Unfortunately, they don't absorb noise and it's

a bit too loud here. There were many coloorful, carefree floral

arrangements wherever you looked as well as 1 phalenopsis

orchid on each table & a vigil light. What I am trying to say, I think,

is that some attention & love has been invested in the decor. The

waiters---young, efficient and a bit harried [full house] are uniformed

in sage green shirts embrodiered w. DB. There are many interesting

china plates, some w. DB and others of interesting shapes. For

example, the soup bowl was a large white china plate w. a sunken

center portion....since we can't eat china, I am happy to report that

it contained a delicious cream of marron soup, with a floating slice

of black truffle. Two scallops, each a sandwich due to a blk truffle

slice within, were perfectly cooked; they sat atop a puddle of herbed

oil. Next came sauteed foie gras accompanied by figs whose roasting

lent them an interesting taste. The fillet of St Pierre was served w.

artichoke hearts and chopped tomatoes..very tasty. Onto the dark

and swarthy 7 hour lamb whose sauce was way too salty. Dessert

was small and utterly delicious. I would describe it as a small individual

pain d'espice tart shell filled w. slightly crisp cubed apples, topped

w. a smal size disk of creme brulee, homemade vanilla ice cream

on the side.

As the evening wore on, DB made the rounds, greeting many

friends and shaking hands w. unknowns such as ourselves. When

available, he said goodbye to guests as they departed. This was a

very pleasant evening.

If you find yourself near the St Germain des Pres market on

a Sunday and wish only simple bistro food, we enjoyed Le Temps

Perdue on rue de Seine. Their onion soup was excelllent and the

other items, more than good enough. Extensive menu of foods we knew as 'french' 20 years ago! ...and which I now think of as 'comfort foods'.

Madame is very gracious to all.

So,in summary, I would put Dominique Bouchet in the Bristol room,

substitue Les Ormes' jarret de veau for his 7 hour lamb and have the

'madames' from Les Ormes and Le Temp Perdu run the diningrooms.

Edited December 9, 2005 by PaulaJK (log)