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greensNbeans

Gilt

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That's what I feared...

I can't say enough how magical our dinner was when Liebrandt was the chef. My non-foodie husband oohed and aahed over every course. I've never seen him so excited about a restaurant; he even asked if we could go there for our anniversary.

A friend and I had the tasting menu at Gilt a few weeks ago (report here). I took Chris Lee's cuisine to be the kind of extremely sedate, competent, but unchallenging fare that the clientele in that location demanded. It was very well done for what it was, but it was the absolute antithesis of a "foodie adventure."

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Had a fantastic meal at Gilt last Saturday. This was our first visit

I must start off by saying that this is probably my favorite room of any high end restaurant I've visited. It drips with luxury and antiquity.

We opted for the expanded 7+ course menu

Two amuses included a butternut squash sorbet on top of toasted sesame crumbs

followed by a delicious short rib filled dumpling in broth

Next was the tuna tartare on top of a black olive paste with breaded quail egg.

sweetbread polenta

thai spiced cod over black beluga lentils and salsify - coconut foam

kobe beef with a side of roasted beef shoulder in a shot glass. - This was the best kobe beef I've ever had. Perfectly seared, tender, juicy. This was the first time I actually understood why its so prized.

grapefruit? intermezzo - don't fully recall

two dessert which were both excellent though I can't create an acccurae description. The second one was a unique version of a flan which I believe was creme brulee flavored.

followed of course with an amazing array of mignardises.

Service was spot on, the room was opulent, and the food was delicious. I'm not sure there was any dish that was mindblowing (maybe the kobe), but all were excellent and interestingly tweaked versions of some more classic dishes.

Gilt doesn't get much press on egullet that I've noticed, but I think it should. I know since liebrandt left for Corton he took some of egullet with him, but Gilt deserves to be recognized as a great addition to New York selection of fine dining.

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Was the butternut sorbet savory? Also, as a person who's somewhat familiar with Thai cuisine, I'd like to know what "Thai spiced" means.


Michael aka "Pan

 

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the butternut sorbet was the first amuse. I'm not sure I could classify it as completely savory or sweet. It wasn't as rich, creamy and savory as a butternut squash soup, but it wasnt too sweet either. It was a light, interesting, clean flavor that perked up my palate for the meal to come.

The menu simply says tandoori spiced black cod. I'm sorry I can't be more specific, but I thought it was one of the most well composed and harmonious dishes of the night however.


Edited by babern38 (log)

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Who is the chef there these days?  Didn't Chris Lee leave to head up Aureole or something?

I believe that one of Lee's sous-chefs took over when he left.

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the butternut sorbet was the first amuse.  I'm not sure I could classify it as completely savory or sweet.  It wasn't as rich, creamy and savory as a butternut squash soup, but it wasnt too sweet either.  It was a light, interesting, clean flavor that perked up my palate for the meal to come.

The menu simply says tandoori spiced black cod.  I'm sorry I can't be more specific, but I thought it was one of the most well composed and harmonious dishes of the night however.

Tandoori spiced or Thai spiced?

I think I would like that butternut sorbet.


Michael aka "Pan

 

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Tandoori spiced I understand.


Michael aka "Pan

 

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Gilt doesn't get much press on egullet that I've noticed, but I think it should.  I know since liebrandt left for Corton he took some of egullet with him, but Gilt deserves to be recognized as a great addition to New York selection of fine dining.

The food board community is overwhelmingly skewed towards less expensive places (sort of like the world in general). A place like Corton, with Liebrandt at the helm, naturally gets attention. But it's telling that most people wouldn't even know the chef's name at Gilt, unless they look it up. Gilt may be doing great stuff (I had a very nice meal there under Chef Lee), but it has flown under the radar since Paul left.

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Gilt doesn't get much press on egullet that I've noticed, but I think it should.  I know since liebrandt left for Corton he took some of egullet with him, but Gilt deserves to be recognized as a great addition to New York selection of fine dining.

The food board community is overwhelmingly skewed towards less expensive places (sort of like the world in general). A place like Corton, with Liebrandt at the helm, naturally gets attention. But it's telling that most people wouldn't even know the chef's name at Gilt, unless they look it up. Gilt may be doing great stuff (I had a very nice meal there under Chef Lee), but it has flown under the radar since Paul left.

Chef Lee is now at my favorite restaurant, Aureole, doing great things there too.

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