Aburiya Kinnosuke

[SobaAddict70]

Due in part to the language barrier, service can be awkward. The people who waited on my friends and me had trouble explaining what various dishes were and, in some cases, why it was taking so long for these dishes to arrive. A few of these servers, seemingly reluctant to intrude on us, succeeded in ignoring us.

The robata produced crisp-skinned chicken wings, succulent strips of pork cheek and tender ribbons of sea eel. It was the cradle of what the menu called a chicken meatball, really a chicken meatloaf, eggy, gooey and comforting.

Gomoku kinpira, a sautéed mixture of thinly sliced mushroom, carrot, burdock root, lotus root and more, was like a slaw that had begun evolving into a lo mein, taking on greater weight, more flavor and oiliness.

Aburiya Kinnosuke (Frank Bruni)

Related discussion regarding Mr. Bruni's style of reviewing and the New York Times' star system can be found here.

Soba

[raji]

It's very tough to do an authentic Japanese restaurant in America, and I rarely see it accomplished. Totto was so authentic that I decided to give Aburiya a try when it first opened several months ago. I haven't been back since, but merely for lack of opportunity, so I'm going to go back again soon and write a proper review with pictures.

The language barrier Bruni mentions comes with the authenticity. For my dollar, I want a kitchen who is fresh off the boat and knows how to make Japanese food properly, and in this case, a waitstaff too, because a lot of the cooking is done at the table. But I think I'm at a distinct advantage because I speak Japanese.

At the same time, much of the staff speaks English there, even if it's not perfect they'll try. Dunno if you need to make a reservation WEEKS in advance either. If you go early you can get a table fine.

Will be back with more...gotta reboot

[ulterior epicure]

Will be back with more...gotta reboot

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raji.

I do wish your computer would reboot faster! I'm considering a visit, but I'd like to get some eGullet reactions. Would love to hear your report/see pictures. Also, any other eGulleters, feel free to chime in with recent visits.

Also, would appreciate price points.

My party and I will be flying in on a Friday... and hopefully can get checked into our hotel by 8pm. I'm sure we'll be famished and I thought that A.K. would be a convenient, yet satisfying option for us (hotel in Midtown East). Trying to keep prices low and affair relatively simple since we'll be at Per Se the following day.

Thanks!

u.e.

[raji]

Wow what a coincidence, I'm going there Monday night. I'll take pictures. With booze, 100-150 for 2 is totally doable. If you're not starving, less. I would definitely go. Aburiya Kinnosuke and Totto are the 2 restaurants most like stepping directly into Tokyo, save some of the higher-end Sushiyas...

[ulterior epicure]

raji!

1. I look forward to your post and pictures.

2. We won't be drinking - three people... do you think we could make it out 120 total?

3. Reservations recommended?

4. Any recommended dishes? Bruni swoons over the "tuna collar."

u.e.

[raji]

raji!

1. I look forward to your post and pictures.

I look forward to devouring the food porn you'll be viewing!

2. We won't be drinking - three people... do you think we could make it out 120 total?

You could if you filled up on some donburi, noodle dishes etc. but you probably can't try lots of different things for 120 for 3 people, which I guess people call "tapas-style"

3. Reservations recommended?

Like Totto I think they have an interesting policy - no reservations after 7pm, something like that. I'll doublecheck on Monday. Last time I went to Totto on a Saturday night at 7:30 I had to wait 40 minutes.

4. Any recommended dishes?  Bruni swoons over the "tuna collar."

Their chicken tsukune comes in a huge wooden spatula and is DELICIOUS! They have a miso black cod ala Nobu I think.

I'll check what's in season and get back to you.

The best, and most traditional thing about authentic Japanese restaurants is they usually have a seasonal/osusume menu large enough to order off of alone -

I dunno why this restaurant is on cheap lists, it's not cheapo

http://www.newyorkmetro.com/listings/resta...riya-kinnosuke/

u.e.

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[therese]

Dinner last night at Aburiya Kinnosuke.

We'd been there earlier in the week to meet (but not dine with) a friend who'd just finished his meal and had enjoyed it. So we booked for Friday night at 7:00, as we had other plans at 10:00. You'd think that booking in person would be easy, but the pleasant young man looking to fit us into the schedule was having a rough time of it, finally fitting us in to a small "box" room. In the end I think we'd have been fine just showing up in spite of it being Friday.

Crowd largely though not exclusively Japanese.

We ordered a bit randomly, and things arrived from the kitchen in similarly random fashion.

The first dish to arrive was something that had been billed as "pumpkin salad." And though it was definitely made of kabocha, it was also not exactly what I expected of a salad, as it was hot mashed kabocha. Tasty, but not my idea of salad.

We were offered two options for chicken tsukune, one described as "salty," the other with egg. We chose the former, and it was very nice, served with chewy bits of dried seaweed.

Braised pork belly with (I think) turnip was delicious.

We chose tongue from the robata grill. Nice, and served with fresh wasabi.

Eggplant, served with shaved bonito and ginger.

Cod roe, cooked on a shichirin at the table. My single favorite dish.

Tofu wrapped in nori and deep fried, served with a dipping sauce.

Soup of the day, miso with mushrooms (for my husband, who was cold).

For dessert my husband had white sesame seed pudding (served with ice cream) and I had warabi mochi. I'd not had these before: they're little blobs of mochi (except that I think this type of mochi is made with bracken starch, not rice), rolled in a brown powder (kinako, ground dried soybeans?) and drizzled with a sweet brown syrup of uncertain provenance. My second favorite dish of the meal.

Service very friendly and helpful, with marginal English skills offset by our server's enthusiasm.

Altogether a lovely meal, and not that expensive in the end: all of the dishes I've listed along with two draft Kirin, one "lime sour" (a sort of spritzer of shoju and club soda that comes with a half lime and your own little mini juicer; other citrus options available as well as one with umeboshi that I tried on our first visit), and a small carafe of cold sake came to $108 before tip.

[ckkgourmet]

I was there awhile back and remember particularly liking some of the flavored tofu on the menu, including (I think) a sesame seed tofu that I thought was remarkable for texture and flavor.

I also remember the tuna collar, which I had on Bruni's recommendation. It was very good, with several different flavors of meat, some rich and delicious, others with a subtle sourness. It's definitely hard to describe. Does anyone know if the tuna collar is something one can expect more regularly in Japan (my suspicion, although I never saw it there)?

[raji]

I think it's easier to come by in Japan certainly - it's just the kind of thing, like hamachikama, that will show up on the osusume menu and will go quickly. After all, only 2 collars per tuna, no?

[ckkgourmet]

I think it's easier to come by in Japan certainly - it's just the kind of thing, like hamachikama, that will show up on the osusume menu and will go quickly. After all, only 2 collars per tuna, no?

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Forgive me, but I'm now curious: what exactly is hamachikama?

[raji]

same thing, but Yellowtail

neck = collar correct?

[ckkgourmet]

neck = collar  correct?

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That's how I understand things. Thanks for the clarification on the yellowtail.

[Sneakeater]

Tunas have two necks?

[raji]

LOL I'm pretty sure each side of the fish is one serving...

[mjs]

Japanese usually translate "kama" as "neck". However, these days it is usually listed as collar on menus since we don't usually think of fish having necks.

I've most frequently seen buri kama in Japan. Buri is just the adult version of Hamachi but they always seem to make the distinction in Japan. I'm not sure whether I can tell if what is frequently sold here as hamachi kama is really buri kama.

Maguro kama isn't nearly as common in Japan as buri. I've had it at a couple of places and it has been giant. Obviously from a large tune, one serving of kama was enough for 4 or 5 people.

[raji]

Just busted out the nihongo for a 9pm reservation (8:30 if people are leaving), so I'll be posting a followup... any requests??

[raji]

Wow what a coincidence, I'm going there Monday night. I'll take pictures. With booze, 100-150 for 2 is totally doable. If you're not starving, less. I would definitely go. Aburiya Kinnosuke and Totto are the 2 restaurants most like stepping directly into Tokyo, save some of the higher-end Sushiyas...

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And let me apologize for never posting a followup here - the night I tried to go, it was without reservations and we were proposed a 40 minute wait so we went elsewhere. So reservations highly highly recommended, even sameday. I called at 6:30pm for an 8:30, and secured a 9pm, and then she went into this long explanation in Keigo that I didn't get all of, but I surmised that they'll call me a bit earlier if things let up -

[ulterior epicure]

Wow what a coincidence, I'm going there Monday night. I'll take pictures. With booze, 100-150 for 2 is totally doable. If you're not starving, less. I would definitely go. Aburiya Kinnosuke and Totto are the 2 restaurants most like stepping directly into Tokyo, save some of the higher-end Sushiyas...

←

And let me apologize for never posting a followup here - the night I tried to go, it was without reservations and we were proposed a 40 minute wait so we went elsewhere. So reservations highly highly recommended, even sameday. I called at 6:30pm for an 8:30, and secured a 9pm, and then she went into this long explanation in Keigo that I didn't get all of, but I surmised that they'll call me a bit earlier if things let up -

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Oh good, we get a second chance... I was quite disappointed to have missed a report last time. Don't let us down!

u.e.

[Hiroyuki]

Japanese usually translate "kama" as "neck".  However, these days it is usually listed as collar on menus since we don't usually think of fish having necks.

I've most frequently seen buri kama in Japan.  Buri is just the adult version of Hamachi but they always seem to make the distinction in Japan.  I'm not sure whether I can tell if what is frequently sold here as hamachi kama is really buri kama.

Maguro kama isn't nearly as common in Japan as buri.  I've had it at a couple of places and it has been giant.  Obviously from a large tune, one serving of kama was enough for 4 or 5 people.

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"Kama" (literally "sickle") refers to a gill. I'm not quite sure why kama is translated into neck or collar.

[raji]

second chance... I was quite disappointed to have missed a report last time.  Don't let us down! 

OK, as I wrote above I secured a reservation for 9pm and showed up with my brother and his friend. Couple problems though, besides forgetting my little Contax spycam (which I've LEFT at Totto twice now) - it was a Monday, so we weren't too on about trying some of the sashimi and fish, and also, they wanted to save money, trying to spend about 40 a piece (we got out of there for 60 a piece, but had ordered carafes of sake and brother and I had about 3-4 drafts too). We ordered enoki mushrooms, garlic, asparagus, bacon, pork cheek, all robatayaki grilled, all very delicious, sometimes I just love the faint smell/taste of the gasoline it was cooked with! We got a kanpachikama too, also very delicious. After that came the obligatory Tsukune, absolutely light and delicious. We finished with 2 of the rice dishes, one Chicken and Gobo, and other, I forgot some type of fish, but another earthenware clay pot rice dish. Absolutely delicious with the provided nori, shiso, negi.... I'm probably missing a couple of things but it was more like an izakaya visit than a multi-course dinner. Everything, as usual, spot on though!

Guess I'll have to go there for a more propper dinner and report back again!

[Fat Guy]

If you have the slightest bit of interest in the world of Japanese food beyond sushi, you should get yourself immediately to Aburiya Kinnosuke for lunch. It's the best $16 or $17 you'll spend on food in Midtown. It's amazing to me that this place hasn't captured the imagination of white people yet, because it's such a great lunch (and value) in a neighborhood where such things are few and far between. Then again, the major means of access to the mainstream community -- a restaurant review in the Times -- utterly missed the point (as usual with Bruni's reviews of Japanese restaurants).

You probably wouldn't give the place a second glance if you walked by it . . .

. . . unless you stood there long enough to watch Japanese businesspeople streaming in and out.

We tried the tonkatsu, made from Berkshire pork, and the day's special of grilled and sliced beef tongue. You get a lot of stuff for your $17 or so. In addition to a generous main plate (or bowl), you get salad, pickles and soup, all made with great care. You also get dessert (on that day, coffee gelatin stuff with whipped cream -- for better or worse, the desserts are very Japanese).

All the ingredients are first-rate, and perhaps the staff's collective English skills have improved a little because I found our waitress easy enough to communicate with.

[Hiroyuki]

Thanks for posting the photos, FG.

What you described as tonkatsu is actually katsudon (tonkatsu with beaten eggs poured over it). "Coffee gelatin stuff" is probably what we call coffee jelly.

[raji]

Peter Meehan just reviewed Soba Totto - the 4th of this group, Totto, Aburiya, Torys, now here, which opened across the street from Yasuda which I mentioned in another thread -

http://events.nytimes.com/2008/02/06/dinin...html?ref=dining

And it offers new insight behind-the-scenes of the mini-empire of Ryuichi Munekata... I first met him back in 2003 just as Totto was opening, but haven't caught him much since then, he seems pretty busy with 4 restaurants and counting -

I took part in a complete feast at Aburiya Kinnosuke on Friday night. It was my friend's birthday and he wanted "something different" after a cycle of prodigious sushi-eating, so I suggested we dine at this robatayaki/modern,high-class izakaya.

Consumed:

edamame

their housemade tofu

assortment of pickles

sashimi -

Yuzu hamachi (hardly tasted the yuzu, but the fish was delightful)

uni - sea urchin

amaebi (small sweet shrimp)

ikura

The uni and amaebi were as good or better than those had at top sushi bars. The uni was a bright orange and extremely delicious, the sweet shrimp amazing and the ikura also wonderful - all served with or without small shirataki noodles, shiso, kelp, etc.

Salmon kama - completely covered in salt and fired, absolutely succulent

miso'd mushroom

shishamo (smelt)

grilled nagaimo (mountain yam)

wagyu tongue

tsukune - chicken meatball (this was the only disapointment of the meal, it had too hard of a crust, and this is one of their signature dishes so should be perfect every time)

plum ochazuke (rice & green tea)

chicken & gobo (burdock) takikomi gohan (cooked rice dish)

crab butter - this was a miss - it's what's normally known as "kanimiso" - crab brains, but they whip it with butter and server it with crackers. It's so rich, you can only possibly eat like 20% of it, I wanted to take the rest home.

several carafes of sake, several kirin drafts, and a couple of imo-shochus on my part - the entire feast came in under $300, not bad as we all super-extended our stomachs, not easy at a Japanese restaurant

I haven't been to a DINNER here in probably a year or so, and it has matured, but it's maturation is a bit of a double-edged sword. The sake, shochu and wine list is now even moreso extensive, so that it occupies a binder on your table. Whereas a couple of years ago, the specials could fit on one page and on a blackboard, now indeed there are more specials than there are items on the regular menu - the specials also occupy another binder. This is great as they very much try to serve what is current and perfect and in season. However, the only downside is that when they had a more limited menu (it was never all that limited), the level of execution neared perfection on every dish, now it's a little bit more hit-or-miss - the misses are far and few, but they do exist now where they didn't before.