Gill Review of the Week

[mtigges]

So who, if anyone, in Vancouver do you think is a good food/dining journalist?

I like Andrew Morrison's work in the west ender.

[barolo]

Care to recommend any?

I generally don't read print media critics. I much prefer on-line blogs (with lots of photos).

[barolo]

Gill reviews three chain restaurants this week:

Chains from New Zealand, Taiwan and Turkey are testing the Canadian appetite for their pizza, beef noodle soup and baked potatoes

She likes the baked potatoes:

Mr. Kumpir

The humble potato takes the cake.

I have no idea why this North American farm staple has become such a huge hit in Turkey. But Mr. Kumpir, whose stuffed snacks have taken Europe by storm, certainly knows how to stuff a spud.

It’s hard to go wrong with a thick-skinned russet, baked until the starchy innards are flaky-soft. But here, they take the tuber straight out of the oven when you order, slit the jacket down the centre and fork-mash it with butter and blended cheese until creamy.

Full story here: Fast-food eateries from afar debut in Vancouver

[Hestia]

Andrew Morrison certainly seems to know what is cool and what is not. But there are many instances where his taste in food really part ways with mine.

[Mark Donnelly]

Care to recommend any?

I quite like Noshwell (noshwell.com) and Ho Yummy (hoyummy.com). Got to dash now; I'm off to the Farmers' Market at Wise Hall.

[barolo]

Gill reviewed Bao Bei this week and she loved it:

I can't remember the last time (if ever) I went to a Chinese restaurant, sank in at a dark corner table, nibbled at a succession of delicious dumplings, soups and wok-fried small plates, drank a few excellent cocktails and then finally looked at my watch 4½ hours later, pleasantly shocked to discover how much time had passed.

Bao Bei is a self-styled Chinese “brasserie,” recently opened in old Chinatown's fashionable up-and-coming fringes. I enjoyed it so much, I went back the next night with a different group of friends (and had another fantastic experience).

Full column here: Restaurant review:Bao bei

Last week was Poor Italian Trattoria Ristorante, which she loathed:

All in all, the best thing I can say about Poor Italian is that they certainly got the name right.

Full column here: Restaurant review: Poor Italian Trattoria Ristorante

[Nicholas Ellan]

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/restaurant-review-oru/article1510555/

Interesting review of Oru which is particularly harsh on the ramen. I'd imagine they have had a lot of disappointed ramenians visiting thanks to that glowing review in the Straight.

[fmed]

It's hard to find more perfectionist diners than rameniacs (sushi-heads included). ORU is trying something unprecedented here - street food in a fine-dining setting. It's a tough row to hoe in this landscape of good cheap Asian eats.

[Nicholas Ellan]

I agree it's difficult to make a critically acceptable bowl of ramen in this town, but that review in the Straight was just outright hyperbolic. Ramen to "make a Japanese businessman cry", as I recall. If you can't make noodles, you don't need that kind of hype. And you probably shouldn't charge $15 either.

Another interesting Gill column, reflecting on the Anthony Sedlak / Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe saga, and being quite positive on the resulting restaurant (but rather nasty to poor Tony).

Edited April 9, 2010 by Nicholas Ellan (log)

[Kentan]

Ms. Gill seems to be on a tear recently - she rips into Cork & Fin today:

Gastown raw bar should fish or cut bait

[barolo]

Gill likes The EdGe in Sooke, by former Sooke Harbour House Executive Chef Edward Tuson:

Restaurant review: The EdGe Restaurant

Here's a snippet:

You can taste the fruits of their passion in freshly cased, spicy lamb sausage that pops with fennel, coriander seed and bits of cilantro ($9.95 when tucked into a panini with a side salad, or $3.50 on its own). Intensely sweet cubes of house-made apple jelly melt like caramel into a bed of whipped cream cheese that sprouts tart apple spring rolls ($6.95), tightly wrapped in piping hot, shatteringly crisp phyllo pastry ....

On any given day, his scrumptiously homey menu may include a satisfying Caesar salad ($6.95) lightly tossed with Parmesan dressing and a generous handful of densely, smoky house-cured bacon. If you’re in luck, the soup of the day ($4.95) will be the amazing green Thai curry broth blended with fish and lamb stock, which gives a curiously deep yet fresh chicken flavour.

[barolo]

Gill checks out four locations offering poutine or some permutation (poutine pizza anyone?):

Poutine conquers the West

Who would have guessed that an Australian-inspired nightclub spinning an unlikely mix of pies and cocktails would deliver the best poutine permutation this side of the Rockies? If this is the next wave of Canadian culture, I’ll take another slice.

La Belle Patate: 1215 Davie St.; 604-569-1215

Brado Pizza: 1399 Commercial Dr.; 604-251-7251

Relish Gastropub & Bar: 888 Nelson St.; 604-669-1962

Charlie's Restaurant & Bar: 1265 Hamilton St.; 604-568-6685

There's also a Q&A with Calvin Trillin on Canadian food that features poutine:

Calvin Trillin's writing elevated the humble wing. What about poutine?

[Hestia]

Had a night out at Campagnolo a couple of weeks ago. I had forgotten about the place, until A Gill gave it a really postive review. I have to agree with Alex, and say the new items from JC Proroir are tremendous, the tuna crudo had wonderful freshness and sharpness. The legacy dishes from before the new chef's time are still clunky though. Particularly the taglirini which is consistenly undercooked with bits of raw dough on the plate. It's a dish that sounds good on the menu, but is always disapointing. The chocolate tart recommended by A Gill however, was stupendeous.

I hope to see more changes as the new chef takes charge of the kitchen and menu.