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Gill Review of the Week


*Deborah*

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This Saturday Globe review wasn't even one of her regular Friday reviews of the week. I am curious, however, whether there is any substance to her statement about Rare's suffering (flavor-wise) with the advent of chef Quang Dang?

PS - surely (I hope) someone in Vancouver can tell me where Quang Dang is now?

Memo - dang if I didn't forget my reading glasses

Quang is working at Diva for the Christmas season, helping out. He does have a plan for the New Year, but I'm sure he will let people know whaen he is ready.

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I had the same reaction. Without knowing what other wines were poured I'd have a hard time drawing any conclusions about the markup on a flight.   

Did she like the wines and were they good pairings?

I did draw conclusions and inferences from the statements that she did make and by doing a little math and making a few assumptions based on the information I know (size of typical tasting portions of wine of 2 oz and a best case scenerio, a mark-up of 100% - with six tasting portions one need not be a math person to figure the per 4 oz glass was $20+ each glass (or assuming a little spillage you get 6 glasses per bottle for $120 a bottle or $60 pre-mark up cost per bottle) and as such I would expect some fairly good wines (although the article notes a $22 per bottle pre-mark up bottle in the mix) and if however, the mark up is higher than 100% the value is inversely proportional to the same). I guess if the pairings were good she might have noted the same? I personally would not have gone with the wine pairings (in any event). The review of the food included more than enough substantive comments for me. Besides, I am sure someone from the restaurant would be more than willing to post and correct Ms. Gill and clarify my assumptions/conclusions/inferences. I will then stand corrected.

Thanks for outlining your assumptions. I think 100% mark up is sadly not that typical in Vancouver anymore, but I note you said best case scenario.

Cheers,

Anne

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We have dined at Rare 4 times. 3 times in the dining room, once in the lounge. On two visits the food was excellent, even superb. On another visit it was just fine and once our food was not good at all, similar to Gill, undercooked and bland. The service was also inconsistent. Sometimes excellent, sometimes just so unaware of what they were missing it was like being at Milestones. Once it was amazing service until we were cleared from our main courses then we got no service at all? We only ordered the wine flights once as we didn't like to have empty glasses while we waited for the wine for the next course.

I think one or two times we were there when Chef Quang still was but Brian was also there so don't know what kind of difference it makes. We will keep going back because the good meals we had really were worth it, but might not take a visitor in case it's an off night. I guess consistency is a problem for them.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, Ms. Gill likes the Windjammer on 15th and main. 3 Sri Lankan vetrans of working at Umberto/pino restaurants for many years took over this english fish and chips joint, and are serving great food at real bargain prices.

I love this place. Anyone been yet. What did you think?

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  • 3 weeks later...

A pretty fair assesment of Dine Out featuring the Hamilton Street Grill

My flagging faith was renewed on Sunday, thanks to a pitch-perfect dinner at Hamilton Street Grill. I had eaten at this casual Yaletown steakhouse before, but had only tried appetizers. I distinctly recall being far more impressed with the kitchen than the dining-room decor, which looks like it was scavenged from a garage sale by a Saltspring Island hippie fond of starburst motifs and wrought iron.

Well, you can't judge a restaurant by its faded art nouveau posters. The proof of the pudding is in the tasting. And HSG's gingerbread pudding with sweet caramel sauce and a spicy duo of ginger and pumpkin gelato really is as good as they say. The moist chocolate brownie with cherry and Belgian chocolate sauces wasn't bad, either.

<SNIP>

For $35, it was a thoroughly satisfying meal. Service was attentive. The food well paced.

Now I've been to a Saltspring Island garage sale, and have NEVER seen wrought iron!

A.

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Having never been to Salt Spring, it would appear that I have mastered their style.

I must admit that I have a fondness for the art work, and even have some more at home.

I had a metal work shop as a next door neighbour for five years so I was able to trade bocconcini salads and beer for wrought iron....................and again, have more of it at home.

All in all, and good piece on DOV.

I am pleased I did well in the food dept. as that is what we are all about. Having done over 1000 meals thus far, very few issues.

I did have a princess in last night who, literally, had a tiny bit of charred fat on the edge of her steak. She turned her nose up at the explanation of we cook over flame, not in a frying pan etc. Your spidey senses do start to tingle when they start scoping the room, thinking they get to pick their table, try it out and then pick another one. The kicker was a note left at the end, saying "I am food critic, too bad mess with me!"

As I have demonstrated this wek, I can not pick the food critic out of the crowd, but I certainly recognize their names and this was not one of them.

Anyhoo..............enough of that, back to work.

Cheers

Neil

Neil Wyles

Hamilton Street Grill

www.hamiltonstreetgrill.com

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  • 1 month later...
The kicker was a note left at the end, saying "I am food critic, too bad mess with me!"

Clearly not for an English paper/magazine.

"There are two things every chef needs in the kitchen: fish sauce and duck fat" - Tony Minichiello

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  • 1 month later...

Alexandra Gill is back, writing about the Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards:

Salt Tasting Room was one of the big winners at this year's substantially improved Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, capturing gold for best new informal restaurant and tying for silver in design.

How could a chef-less restaurant, tucked in the bowels of Blood Alley, that specializes in prebought cold cuts and sliced cheese possibly come out on top? The choice says as much about Vancouver's psyche as its eating habits. And it's one to be proud of, I think.

Read the whole story here: Salt rules

The paper is launching a redesign next week and Gill's "provocative" (the Globe's description) column will be moving to Wednesday's paper.

Cheers,

Anne

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  • 1 year later...
Gill gives a pretty big thumbs up reveiw of the new Irish Heather. 

I myself think the rooms are very nice and the food is a real step up - pretty darned tasty. And filling.  That comforting pot pie is really nicely portioned.

Excellent. Congrats to Sean and Colleen and the Heather crew. I'm glad to see they're now pouring some fine local R+B product.

Link to the review here:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/sto...=alexandra+gill

Hong Kong Dave

O que nao mata engorda.

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Gill gives a pretty big thumbs up reveiw of the new Irish Heather. 

I myself think the rooms are very nice and the food is a real step up - pretty darned tasty. And filling.  That comforting pot pie is really nicely portioned.

Excellent. Congrats to Sean and Colleen and the Heather crew. I'm glad to see they're now pouring some fine local R+B product.

Link to the review here:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/sto...=alexandra+gill

New digs for a local fave - and much better fare

Fiercely loyal regulars of the original Heather will find the new chef takes pub grub to a whole other level

ALEXANDRA GILL

The Irish Heather is Vancouver's only authentic Irish pub. So says the Honorary Irishman, who lived for six months in Waterford City (and spent much of that time drinking Smithwick's).  He, like the legions of other Irish Heather fans out there, has always enjoyed its low ceilings, narrow corridors, warm ambience, rustic charm and fabulous selection of beer.

But now the venerable Gastown gastropub has moved into new digs across the street.  The Honorary Irishman is not optimistic. "It won't be the same," he laments.

Proprietor Sean Heather says he didn't have much choice. The old building, which hugs the cobblestone alleys of the city's historic Gaoler's Mews, has been shut down for seismic upgrades. Mr. Heather could have weathered a three-month closing. But after the renovations, it still would have felt dramatically different.  Mr. Heather admits change is hard, but he thinks regulars will be pleased. (His female focus group apparently cheered and clapped when they saw the sparkling clean, tiled bathrooms.)

"It's like the Heather, but better," he says.

The main room is wrapped in brick and dominated by a long stand-up bar. Dark wood floors made from Guinness barrels, copper-sheeted accent walls and crystal chandeliers exude a warm, cozy glow. The original Heather is commemorated with caricature oil paintings drawn from photographs of patrons clustered around the beer taps.  Much like the old Heather, the new Heather is a den-like warren of nooks and separate rooms. Out back, connected by a brick alleyway, we find the new Shebeen whisky bar. It's much brighter than the main room, louder, full of dancing dervishes and encased in concrete (for easy hosing down the next morning, I would guess).

Next door, connected via the bathroom causeway, we spy the Salty Tongue deli, which shares the Irish Heather menu at night and is also open for lunch. It's a long, narrow room with a 52-seat communal table that looks full.  "Must be a private party," I think, steering the Honorary Irishman in another direction.   "Oh no!" says a kindly waitress who overhears me. "Go on back. If there's a chair, just grab it."  We score a high-top table for two in a snug alcove. Perched on our stools, the first thing we notice is that almost everyone around us is eating. At 10:30 p.m.! The Irish Heather may call itself a gastropub, but the food was never much to write home about. That's all changed now that Colleen McClean (former chef de cuisine at Feenie's and Rare) has been brought in as executive chef. Her menu raises pub grub to a whole new level for Vancouver.

Trout ($10) is hot-smoked in-house, with a firm, flakey texture. It comes with a lip-smacking side of mashed minted peas, drizzled with crème fraîche and topped with a smattering of golden-battered, deep-fried shallot rings.  Cassoulet terrine ($12) is a hearty slice of Toulouse sausage, duck confit and pork belly, each savoury element wrapped in tiny parcels of Savoy cabbage with a few white beans thrown into the mix. It comes with a small mixed green salad tossed with a perfectly blended honey vinaigrette. I don't get excited about salad dressings very often, but this is very good.  Pot pie ($14) changes weekly. We get a rich, gooey, Guinness-braised steak version with nice cubes of lean meat, finely cut carrots and fresh peas baked in a thick, chewy crust. The massive portion comes with buttery double-mashed potatoes and excellent gravy that is creamy and golden.

Beyond the predictable burgers and bangers, Ms. McClean offers a few global twists: Asian-inspired fish and chips (made with sake kasu marinated snapper), Moroccan-style braised lamb and Thai green curry chicken (entrées range from $14 to $19).  With cheese and charcuterie plates sourced from sister restaurant Salt Tasting Room, there are plenty of options for grazing. And quite a few nods to vegetarians. We particularly like the gnudi ($14), a pasta-less ravioli made from ricotta, basil and lemon, served with a fresh, chunky tomato sauce.  My only complaint is the dessert selection. The Irish Heather offers two: chocolate pot de crème and lemon pannacotta. They're both custards. What's wrong with cake or pie? 

Oh, wait. I am so impressed with the food I have failed to mention the drinks. The Irish Heather is the only pub in Vancouver where you'll find a cask-conditioned ale (from R&B Brewing) every day of the week.  The bottled beer list has been expanded, and now offers more than 20 varieties. The craft beers from Oregon's Rogue Ales are noteworthy, as is Pyramid Breweries' tasty apricot weizen.  The B.C.-heavy wine list has been stepped up a notch. And the whisky list: I don't even know where to begin. There are more than 50 single malts, including one from Japan.

With its gourmet pub fare, interesting drinks, unpretentious atmosphere and charming new digs, the new Irish Heather is like a playground for grown-ups.

No, it's not the same as the old Heather. But sometimes change is good. The Honorary Irishman gives it two thumbs up.

And I like it, too.

Edited by canucklehead (log)
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  • 4 months later...

It's been a while since we discussed Alexandra Gill but, thanks to Rhonda May over at City Food, I thought I'd pass on a link to a spring 2008 column in the Ryerson Review of Jounalism: So you want to be a restaurant critic?

So before you embark on a new career path, please consider the following words of wisdom. Herewith, my five-step program for making friends, influencing people and rising to the top as a restaurant critic:

...

The moral of the story? It’s a cold, brutish world out there, with no place for family or virtues. Don’t even think of going into the restaurant-reviewing business unless you’re willing to sell out or be hated.

Cheers,

Anne

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  • 11 months later...

In the February 20th Globe and Mail:

As The Globe and Mail's Vancouver restaurant critic, it's usually me on the other side of the table driving everyone crazy. Some say I can be harsh on wait staff, an opinion that puzzles me since I often refrain from commenting on the service – unless it was exceptionally good or egregiously bad.

Yet I firmly believe that one shouldn't dish out criticism unless one's willing to eat what's flung back, or at least try to understand it. So I recently spent a week waitressing to gain a better appreciation of what servers endure from their customers and how they perceive us.

For full story click here

Cheers,

Anne

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Gill reviews LUPO and she likes it:

If there’s anything I love more than a great meal, it’s a good story. Especially when the yarn involves a talented underdog who’s thrown for a loop and comes out on top in the end.

Consider the game of musical chairs that had Julio Gonzalez Perini cooking in circles until he recently returned home to the newly launched and highly recommended LUPO Restaurant + Vinoteca.

Full column here: LUPO: Underdog chef finds you can go home again

Cheers,

Anne

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In the February 20th Globe and Mail:

As The Globe and Mail's Vancouver restaurant critic, it's usually me on the other side of the table driving everyone crazy. Some say I can be harsh on wait staff, an opinion that puzzles me since I often refrain from commenting on the service – unless it was exceptionally good or egregiously bad.

Hard to belive she gets paid to write such drival. My 13 year old daugther's Facebook wall displays better journalism.

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At least I can respect her methodology, by not being conspicuous you at least can get an average diner's perspective, (her recent review of Society is a good case in point). There are a number of reviewers who do not hold to this standard & must surely lack relevancy, is it any surprise that some of the most highly regarded restaurant critics, such as Bruni, Maschler, Durack etc. operate in such a way, to the benefit of the consumer not the restaurateur. Within some cliques of restaurants the relationship verges on sycophancy, a money/power thing I guess.

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So who, if anyone, in Vancouver do you think is a good food/dining journalist?

name='Mark Donnelly'

Hard to belive she gets paid to write such drival. My 13 year old daugther's Facebook wall displays better journalism.

Edited by barolo (log)

Cheers,

Anne

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