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Schwa - Chicago


nick.kokonas
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The quail egg ravioli dish is truly ethereal - a candidate for the single best dish I have had this year.

Doc,

How good would it be with white truffle shaved in or/and on top of those ravioli? :wacko:

E

p.s. I guess we will have to wait until season to see...repeat trip?

Edited by molto e (log)

Eliot Wexler aka "Molto E"

MoltoE@restaurantnoca.com

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The quail egg ravioli dish is truly ethereal - a candidate for the single best dish I have had this year.

Doc,

How good would it be with white truffle shaved in or/and on top of those ravioli? :wacko:

E

p.s. I guess we will have to wait until season to see...repeat trip?

How good indeed! I have no doubt that it would be worth the trip.

  just catching up on this thread, so glad that both doc and molto have had a chance to get to Schwa!

Wendy, you and I both! I am sure molto as well :laugh:

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Anyone been to Schwa recently?  I have a reservation coming up in a little under a month, and I can't wait!

Hi Tammy,

My husband and I went for the first time on Friday for our anniversary. It couldn't have been a better meal. We are definitely looking forward to our next visit (most likely after the holidays).

We had most of the same dishes as Molto e described upthread with a few changes. Our 9 courses (sorry no pictures):

Amuse - candied/caramelized green apple served on a stick like a lollipop. It had some sea salt on the top as well. The presentation was very fun with the lollipop stuck into a half of a green apple (cut side down). This gave us a wonderful idea for our amuse for our New Year's Eve dinner.

Salad - heirloom tomato panzanella salad with little balls of heirloom tomato on the side. I wish I could remember all the schmears/pastes that were on the plate. The only one I remember is a basil one. They were all so good, I wanted to run my finger along the plate. Actually, I think I did.

Proscuitto Consomme - as molte e said - a signature dish. Delicious!

Quail Egg Ravioli - better than I imagined - and I've been imagining for months. It was the right amount of cheese and tanginess to contrast with the creaminess of the egg. I have a friend that doesn't like eggs, but told him that he would have no problem with this dish. This was the only point in the dinner that I wished we had bread, so I could have soaked up the sauce.

Illinois Sturgeon Caviar with Cauliflower - We had a very similar dish at Citronelle years ago, but I enjoyed this so much more.

Lobster with butter foam, potatoes and mushrooms (I think - I don't have very good recall). I do not believe there was lavender in ours and it was more suited to the fall season.

Shortribs, beef tongue - excellent dish, but I can't recall all the sides (we really should have asked for a menu).

Sweetbreads - now I'm not crazy about sweetbreads, but these were delicious because they were fried to just the right crispiness.

Dessert - the same as molte e's. Words can't describe the truffle milkshake - it was much more delicate than I thought it would be, which after this meal, I appreciated the touch of richness without it being too overpowering. It was just right. I also enjoyed the other dessert - even the candied olives (I do not like olives!). My husband and I agreed that finally we had a dessert with olives in it that worked (unlike one that we had at Trotter's a couple of years ago).

Chef Carlson and his staff were wonderful. We can't wait to go back.

I like cows, too. I hold buns against them. -- Bucky Cat.

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Thanks for the report.  I'm eagerly anticipating my visit (October 19!).

Did you bring wine?  Do they still only have tumblers, so we should bring our own glassware?

We did bring wine - a split of champagne, a white and a red. Yes, it is still just tumblers. I did see one couple with flutes for their champagne, but we weren't offered any for ours, so I'm assuming they brought them.

We also bought a bottle of wine for the kitchen - it was suggested to us by a waiter at another restaurant as a nice gesture for the staff.

I like cows, too. I hold buns against them. -- Bucky Cat.

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Thanks for the report.  I'm eagerly anticipating my visit (October 19!).

Did you bring wine?  Do they still only have tumblers, so we should bring our own glassware?

We went for our third (maybe fourth??) time to Schwa last week. A few (wonderful) changes.

We ordered the tasting menu (as usual) and it was almost similar to "Molto e" menu.

Two wonderful additions:

The amuse was "turmeric Ice Cream with (I believe) Date Puree" served on an ice-cube-like pedestal. Absolutely delicious.

For the "Salad Course" there was a fantastic-out-of-this-world brioche-tomato confit, with parmeggiano-reggiano. Very, very good. I took a picture if someone is interested.

Peach Risotto, served in a spoon. Very good.

Also, the desserts were the olive-oil, strawberry cake. And two chocolate desserts, very good. However, the chocolate dessert was the clear winner.

The price for the tasting menu is now $95. The best deal ever.

On a final note, I think that Chef MC and Sous-Chef NK are really very talented and they really work a lot to offer their guests an incredible gastronomical experience and, on top of it all, they are two very nice guys. I am sure that one day I will be able to say that I knew them when they were at that little place in N.Ashland.

I already have my December reservation.

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Thanks for the report.  I'm eagerly anticipating my visit (October 19!).

Did you bring wine?  Do they still only have tumblers, so we should bring our own glassware?

We went for our third (maybe fourth??) time to Schwa last week. A few (wonderful) changes.

We ordered the tasting menu (as usual) and it was almost similar to "Molto e" menu.

Two wonderful additions:

The amuse was "turmeric Ice Cream with (I believe) Date Puree" served on an ice-cube-like pedestal. Absolutely delicious.

For the "Salad Course" there was a fantastic-out-of-this-world brioche-tomato confit, with parmeggiano-reggiano. Very, very good.

I took a picture if someone is interested.

Peach Risotto, served in a spoon. Very good.

Also, the desserts were the olive-oil, strawberry cake. And two chocolate desserts, very good. However, the chocolate dessert was the clear winner.

The price for the tasting menu is now $95. The best deal ever.

On a final note, I think that Chef MC and Sous-Chef NK are really very talented and they really work a lot to offer their guests an incredible gastronomical experience and, on top of it all, they are two very nice guys. I am sure that one day I will be able to say that I knew them when they were at that little place in N.Ashland.

I already have my December reservation.

Always interested in pictures. :biggrin:

Robert R

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Thanks for the report.  I'm eagerly anticipating my visit (October 19!).

Did you bring wine?  Do they still only have tumblers, so we should bring our own glassware?

We went for our third (maybe fourth??) time to Schwa last week. A few (wonderful) changes.

We ordered the tasting menu (as usual) and it was almost similar to "Molto e" menu.

Two wonderful additions:

The amuse was "turmeric Ice Cream with (I believe) Date Puree" served on an ice-cube-like pedestal. Absolutely delicious.

For the "Salad Course" there was a fantastic-out-of-this-world brioche-tomato confit, with parmeggiano-reggiano. Very, very good.

I took a picture if someone is interested.

Peach Risotto, served in a spoon. Very good.

Also, the desserts were the olive-oil, strawberry cake. And two chocolate desserts, very good. However, the chocolate dessert was the clear winner.

The price for the tasting menu is now $95. The best deal ever.

On a final note, I think that Chef MC and Sous-Chef NK are really very talented and they really work a lot to offer their guests an incredible gastronomical experience and, on top of it all, they are two very nice guys. I am sure that one day I will be able to say that I knew them when they were at that little place in N.Ashland.

I already have my December reservation.

Always interested in pictures. :biggrin:

THere you go! Thanks for your help. All the other pictures were not very good (the combination of fall, and minimal(ist) lighting)

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11610160...3746_483777.jpg

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Okay, after a too-long delay, my Schwa write-up is finally up on my blog. I'd repost it here, but I'm too busy (and sick) to upload all the pictures again.

http://tammystastings.blogspot.com/2006/10/schwa.html

One interesting thought that came to me as I was writing it up was that even though the menu included three foods that are in my "don't like much" category - cantaloupe, eggplant, olives - I liked everything I was served and definitely consider this one of my top meals. Kinda cool.

Tammy's Tastings

Creating unique food and drink experiences

eGullet Foodblogs #1 and #2
Dinner for 40

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  • 3 weeks later...
Okay, after a too-long delay, my Schwa write-up is finally up on my blog.  I'd repost it here, but I'm too busy (and sick) to upload all the pictures again.

http://tammystastings.blogspot.com/2006/10/schwa.html

One interesting thought that came to me as I was writing it up was that even though the menu included three foods that are in my "don't like much" category - cantaloupe, eggplant, olives - I liked everything I was served and definitely consider this one of my top meals.  Kinda cool.

Went to "Schwa" last week. Again, incredible. One new dish:instead of the Prosciutto Consomme we got the "Elotes" soup....Perfection, that is all I say.

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Okay, after a too-long delay, my Schwa write-up is finally up on my blog.  I'd repost it here, but I'm too busy (and sick) to upload all the pictures again.

http://tammystastings.blogspot.com/2006/10/schwa.html

One interesting thought that came to me as I was writing it up was that even though the menu included three foods that are in my "don't like much" category - cantaloupe, eggplant, olives - I liked everything I was served and definitely consider this one of my top meals.  Kinda cool.

Went to "Schwa" last week. Again, incredible. One new dish:instead of the Prosciutto Consomme we got the "Elotes" soup....Perfection, that is all I say.

Lenski, I would be very interested in learning more about this soup. Can you describe it? What made it so "perfect?" They do make some truly remarkable dishes there. Their quail egg ravioli remains one of the most outstanding and memorable dishes that I have had this year.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Okay, after a too-long delay, my Schwa write-up is finally up on my blog.  I'd repost it here, but I'm too busy (and sick) to upload all the pictures again.

http://tammystastings.blogspot.com/2006/10/schwa.html

One interesting thought that came to me as I was writing it up was that even though the menu included three foods that are in my "don't like much" category - cantaloupe, eggplant, olives - I liked everything I was served and definitely consider this one of my top meals.  Kinda cool.

Went to "Schwa" last week. Again, incredible. One new dish:instead of the Prosciutto Consomme we got the "Elotes" soup....Perfection, that is all I say.

Lenski, I would be very interested in learning more about this soup. Can you describe it? What made it so "perfect?" They do make some truly remarkable dishes there. Their quail egg ravioli remains one of the most outstanding and memorable dishes that I have had this year.

Dear Doc,

I am starting to hate going to "Schwa" because I realize that I need to bring a Thesaurus to describe those dishes with accurate adjectives.

You will really be jealous when I tell you that the egg ravioli are still sublime. I think they might be a little smaller than before (or maybe it is my craving talking) However, I do not know what adjective to use "empyrean?" "elysian?", the perfect dish got accentuated by delicate and ethereal white truffle shavings. I am not ashamed to admit that I licked the plate. Proudly.

The "elotes" soup is, according to the explanation I was offered, a take on a very popular Chicago street food (http://www.openair.org/alerts/corn/) and you have the cup of elotes soup, with (some sort of caramelized/crystallized) corn, ethereal parmiggiano and a reduction of herbs (very whimsically presented). I really wanted to take a picture but it would have only worked with flash.

Another new dish was the amuse, a deconstruction of a caramelized apple.

This time, for dessert, we both got the same one. A chocolate concoction, a classic finish.

I am back next month ( I still do not know when they reopen for 2007. Last time we spoke they were not sure), and for 2007, I hope I will eat there at least once every two months. In my very humble culinary opinion, few things beat "Schwa" in Chicago or any other place.

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what is the dress code?  Didn't see it mentioned in a quick scroll thorugh previous posts.  Thanks.

Totally casual. I have seen people dressed in suits and tracksuits (yes!). It is very informal and I, for one, welcome it. It goes with their philosophy, I believe, that it is all about the food.

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You will really be jealous when I tell you that the egg ravioli are still sublime.  I think they might be a little smaller than before (or maybe it is my craving talking) However, I do not know what adjective to use "empyrean?" "elysian?",  the perfect dish got accentuated by delicate and ethereal white truffle shavings.  I am not ashamed to admit that I licked the plate.
Oh, honey, no shame here! I join doc in coveting your latest experience. :raz:

u.e.

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what is the dress code?  Didn't see it mentioned in a quick scroll thorugh previous posts.  Thanks.

Totally casual. I have seen people dressed in suits and tracksuits (yes!). It is very informal and I, for one, welcome it. It goes with their philosophy, I believe, that it is all about the food.

Dear eGulleteers: YES! It is all about the food. We are veteran supporters of Michael and Nathan and now Blake at Schwa! They are our heros in the Chicago area for great food in a tiny restaurant. We continue to support them for their excellence. The dress of the diners is irrelevant. The food is the centerfold both for today and tomorrow. We continue to find these chefs exceptional. Judith Gebhart
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FYI - I made a reservation today at Schwa for January. I was told starting at the beginning of the year, they are going to only be open Monday - Friday nights. No Saturdays or Sundays.

The reason was to spend more time with family.

I like cows, too. I hold buns against them. -- Bucky Cat.

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FYI - I made a reservation today at Schwa for January.  I was told starting at the beginning of the year, they are going to only be open Monday - Friday nights.  No Saturdays or Sundays. 

The reason was to spend more time with family.

I do not think this has been posted yet. "Chicago" Magazine has an interview with the six top chefs (according to them) in Chicago and "Schwa" becomes, indirectly, the topic of conversation.

Q: What’s the best thing about the star-rating system? [ Silence.]

Q: OK, the worst thing.

Bayless: So many people don’t read the reviews; they only read the stars. Like somebody from heaven has given you three stars and suddenly you’re in that category. Nobody knows quite how it happens but that’s all they remember.

Nahabedian: Or sometimes you’ll read a whole review and it’ll be positive from start to finish. So, OK, why does this guy only have two stars?

Kahan: There are no set rules. I realize it’s subjective, but there need to be some guidelines that say, in order for a restaurant to get three stars—and I’m not talking about anyone in particular—you need to have a wine list.

Nahabedian: Or you need to have service. If you chose not to have a wine list, that’s great, but at least have people who are knowledgeable serving the wine. Anybody could just serve food. I could cook the plate, walk it out, and walk away, but what are you getting from that?

Achatz: But that in itself is an experience. I assume that we’re all talking about Schwa. [ Note: The Chicago Tribune and Chicago magazine both gave Schwa three stars out of four even though it’s BYO and doesn’t have white-tablecloth service.]

Welcome to Toqueville

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FYI - I made a reservation today at Schwa for January.  I was told starting at the beginning of the year, they are going to only be open Monday - Friday nights.  No Saturdays or Sundays. 

The reason was to spend more time with family.

I do not think this has been posted yet. "Chicago" Magazine has an interview with the six top chefs (according to them) in Chicago and "Schwa" becomes, indirectly, the topic of conversation.

Q: What’s the best thing about the star-rating system? [ Silence.]

Q: OK, the worst thing.

Bayless: So many people don’t read the reviews; they only read the stars. Like somebody from heaven has given you three stars and suddenly you’re in that category. Nobody knows quite how it happens but that’s all they remember.

Nahabedian: Or sometimes you’ll read a whole review and it’ll be positive from start to finish. So, OK, why does this guy only have two stars?

Kahan: There are no set rules. I realize it’s subjective, but there need to be some guidelines that say, in order for a restaurant to get three stars—and I’m not talking about anyone in particular—you need to have a wine list.

Nahabedian: Or you need to have service. If you chose not to have a wine list, that’s great, but at least have people who are knowledgeable serving the wine. Anybody could just serve food. I could cook the plate, walk it out, and walk away, but what are you getting from that?

Achatz: But that in itself is an experience. I assume that we’re all talking about Schwa. [ Note: The Chicago Tribune and Chicago magazine both gave Schwa three stars out of four even though it’s BYO and doesn’t have white-tablecloth service.]

Welcome to Toqueville

I read this article as well. At first, I thought the chefs were being ridiculous for knocking Schwa on these two points (service and wine), and was very happy to see Chef Achatz jump to Schwa's defense. After thinking about it awhile, I can see the point of view of the other chefs. Why should they get knocked for something that someone else doesn't offer, therefore can't be compared to. Should the number of stars be based on more than just the food? If I were them, I would say yes. I also read this article the same day that the Tribune gave the movie Borat 4-stars, and used words like 'genius'. My reaction to that was how can a movie be comical genius when it is based on the premise of fraud, misleading people and making fun of them. In other words, it is being rated on something that doesn't have the same foundation/elements that other comedies do. I think the chefs feel they should be compared to restaurants that offer the same components that they do.

In the end, I agree with the chefs - star systems aren't very good and are misleading.

Regardless of stars, we are looking forward to another visit to Schwa, which was one of our most memorable and satisfying meals of the past few years.

I like cows, too. I hold buns against them. -- Bucky Cat.

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Schwa de Vivre - Chicago - Schwa

10:01 Wednesday morning found me punching numbers into my cell phone, cadging a new reservation at Schwa, Chicago chef Michael Carlson's hot and intimate storefront amazement. Less than twelve hours earlier I had been finishing dessert under Carlson's command. I had been away last year when Schwa opened to squeals of delight and unaccented schwa-y sighs.

Carlson is a graduate of the Grant Achatz school of dining as aristocratic amazement and has worked with Hester Blumenthal at England's noble Fat Duck, but Schwa has a different vision. Cooks fantasize opening a small boîte for the pleasure of a small circle of friends. And some few do. Michael Carlson is one. Schwa is a 28-seat restaurant in what some high-toned folk have labeled a "dodgy" stretch of Western Avenue (an ungentrified area of Chicago's West Town). The restaurant is situated in a pleasant-enough storefront, although sniffers might deduct points for decoration as some did for the late lamented Matsumoto (and seated by the radiator, my hot flashes were not only from the passion of the kitchen). Music piped courtesy of local white rappers, the melodic preference of the staff. Schwa's soundtrack is many leagues from Le Cirque.

The staff consists of three cooks, a helper, and a server, although everyone, including Chef Carlson (and Sous Chef Nathan Klingbail), carried plates. With two set degustations (including the eleven course menu I selected), the staff had a firm idea of their evening tasks. With the price of the full menu at $100/person (comparable to Moto or Daniel Humm's Eleven Madison Park in New York), savings from their modest rent is not passed on. Schwa is not a restaurant that is unaware or ashamed of its skills. (Schwa doesn't have a wine list, and the corkage fee is a wildly, trippingly modest $5.00/table).

Carlson's cuisine owes much to Achatz and other culinary modernists, although Schwa not as showy as Alinea or as antic as WD-50. I was struck by Carlson's use of negative space. As with minimalism in art, the emptiness directs attention. If the food was molecular, some plates could have used a microscope (OK, a magnifying glass). The pictures tell the tale. When I arrived home after my eleven-course banquet, I prepared a snack.

Let my phone call serve as evidence of my esteem. Michael Carlson among the most compelling and original chefs cooking today, an artist to watch. The opening of Schwa is a significant culinary event, dividing the decorator from the cook. As one who has groused at the "Disappearing Chef Syndrome," it is comforting to see Chef Carlson laboring at his stove. This is a chef who unlike some Iron Chefs doesn't need a map to find his restaurant. Should you find a hair in the soup, test for Carlson's DNA. Had not Alinea opened in 2005, Schwa is a dream personally sauteed and souffled.

Still, the critic's code of ethics prevents me from claiming that my meal was the brightest of the year (I ate at Per Se three times; Schwa was an improvement over one of those meals). Some dishes were sublime, splendid, and spectacular, some soared, and a few were good. Throughout the meal, a diner realized that there are some luxe touches that only a capacious staff can provide. Schwa's perfection was in the combination of astonishing food in its tight sphere - the diner's faith in the craftsman's touch.

Chef Carlson saved the worst for first. The amuse was two small candied apple balls, sprinkled with fleur de sel. The salt was startling, but the apple was more Coney Island than Midtown. Modest, but not deceptively so. I began to muse about hype.

Happily the salad course set things right. Chef Carlson composed an engaging salad with white anchovy, apples, celery, celery root, and Manchego cheese. With its bold flavors, subtle colors, and unassuming ingredients, it could have been an homage to Charlie Trotter. It was a dish that owed more to the new American cuisine that Trotter has been linked to than to the revolutionary fervor of molecular dishes. The salad was a blissful, bright introduction to Schwa's range.

For soup, we were treated to a theatrical set-piece, Prosciutto Consomme with Melon and Arugula, a dish perhaps inspired by the vertical cuisine of Alfred Portole at Gotham Bar and Grill. Stacked languidly, as if 2x4s left by a casual carpenter, were two thin shaved slices of ham, one crispy and one smoked and thinly cut. The neighboring cup of bullion proffered the purest essence of ham. The fresh melon and arugula flakes were bit players in this moist and porcine drama.

Carlson's Quail Egg Ravioli is that rare act of inspiration that could qualify a chef for a Genius Award. My companion asked if he could skip the rest of the menu and be served a heaping bowl. The ravioli was served with ricotta, brown butter, parmigiano reggianno, and as much white truffle as Caligula would need for a month of orgies. Here was a dish that channeled Thomas Keller, while knowing how much truffle to perfume the quail egg before a defibrillator was required. Be still my beating heart! Carlson has created the most erotic recipe this side of Tampopo, lush, gooey, musky, preposterous, and very, very opulent.

Looking at "Illinois Sturgeon Caviar with Avocado and Cauliflower," one might imagine another Keller inspiration. It wasn't quite. Serving Illinois Sturgeon Caviar might satirize our desire to eat local at all cost. This was roe that serves in a pinch. The creamy cauliflower was a more joyous match than the avocado.

The butter-poached lobster was a surprise, off-the-menu entry, and it was the first of Carlson's minimalist, molecular dishes. The lobster was served with sauteed gooseberries, potatoes, and Swiss chard napped with a lavender emulsion foam. The lavender brightened the shellfish with its flowery floral overtones. In the past year, I have had some remarkable lobster dishes, and this lobster can be inducted into the club. By placing pieces of the lobster on the rim of the plate, Chef Carlson engaged in frame-breaking, emphasizing how much of the plate was unused and how airy his presentation. This was another glittering combine.

On the printed menu Nantucket Bay Scallops were scheduled to be served with the gooseberries, lavender, and potatoes. Instead we were served scallops with white truffle (again, happily), chanterelles, and Brussel Sprouts. This was a one spoon dish (silverware that owed much to Alinea), but it was a terrifically powerful spoonful. The mushrooms, sprouts, and truffle created a dish that captured the mind of mid-November.

Chef Carlson was surely teasing us with his composition of Sweetbreads, Rhubarb, and Humboldt Fog Cheese. In the middle of a platter was a small pile of thymus, smiling like a goiter. As if emphasizing the embodied origins, a smear of rhubarb red and foggy white flowed from the organ meat. The presentation was characteristic of the Carlson aesthetic, although the dish, tasty in each part, seemed too carefully calibrated, lacking a warm heart.

For the main course, we were served "Beef: Raw, Pickled, and Braised." The trio of servings were petite, and their placement on a spacious plate emphasized their bulk - three bites and on to the next course. The raw was tartare with (I believe) quail egg, served on a plastic "ice cube," accompanied by squibs of sesame oil and yuzu. The yuzu was a surprising match. I have bitten my tongue on many occasions, but never had such a pickled bite. Braised short rib was served with a sweet tomatillo puree, and was delicious, if not shockingly so.

"Cheese" was another heroic single bite. A spoon of al dente risotto, tart apple and Morbier cheese (a semi-soft, ash-filled cow's milk cheese) was suffused with flavors that revealed a gustatory harmony. The apple cut through the creamy and rich rice and cheese. Like other bites, this might have been followed by a train of other bites. Just as the first sip of wine does not perfectly predict one's ultimate pleasure, one-bite tricks produce similar vexation. The first bite alerts the diner what to evaluate, compare, and combine. Dishes need time to breathe and breed.

Our two desserts were less compelling that the main courses. I wasn't fond of the olive shortcake with olive oil ice cream and strawberry mousse. It's sweetness had an off-taste. The plate was startlingly pretty, but not divine on the tongue. Chef Carlson's chocolate brownie with pumpkin seeds was a more satisfying construction, but not filled with the possibilities of memory. It was a fine brownie. Were it permitted, I would have selected other confections.

Michael Carlson matters for our culinary future. He is blessed and limited in his locale. How much better he can get in his current location, and should we wish that he has a drive for improvement. Some dishes were a little off and some might have been tweaked or expanded, but the idea that we were eating food this stunningly satisfying in a little storefront on the West Side of Chicago made us brave adventurers with Carlson a bravura guide. I admit - sheepishly - that I award the idea of Schwa a solid four stars with its food at three-stars-plus. But that night I was where the action was - and where the action might not be for long. Does Chef Carlson owe us a sumptuous showplace with a corps of cooks readying an elaborate mise-en-place or does a heady gig more than suffice? I'm not taking chances. My morning-after routine is to schedule a future repast.

Schwa

1466 North Ashland

Chicago (West Town)

773-252-1466

www.schwarestaurant.com

Photos available at:

Vealcheeks

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  • 1 month later...

From the piece linked above by Lenski:

When Schwa opened in 2005, we knew it was destined for greatness. What we didn’t know was that the talent of Schwa boys Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail would make getting a reservation in 2006 next to impossible. Every visit unveils a new favorite, such as this play on the Mexican street snack elote (corn-on-the-cob)—roasted corn soup with grilled corn, popped corn, lime emulsion, sprinkles of chili powder and a smear of mayo.

=R=

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You share our enormous appreciation of both Michael and Nathan's talents. They continue to dazzle everyone that welcomes the culinary delights that this tiny kitchen produces. Chicago has no challengers to these two innovators. Remember that no cooks in this city can produce a memorable meal that rivals these two cooks with their price points. And, you can provide your own wine! What could be better? Chicago savor these two talents for all of 2007. We all want them to stay and continue to work their culinary magic. Judith Gebhart

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