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Southern Italy


albiston

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What time of year will this be?

Puglia is a great, somewhat off the beaten path destination that may be good to decompress from the tourist crowds of Rome and Amalfi. I agree with Steven that while you should see Alberobello, it's kind of turning into a tourist trap. I'd also add Ostuni to your destinations to go to in Puglia and you could make it your base of operations to go to Alberobello, Monopoli, and other places along the peninsula. You would best benefit by getting a car for this part of the trip, however.

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I must agree that the Matera Sassi are absolutely unique and a don't miss. And while a good Primitivo is worthwhile, one shouldn't miss Basilicata's Aglianico Vulture. Sensational and served by all in Matera.

Also if you hit Monopoli try to get to Lido Bianco for a Sunday pranzo. All families in full finery and almost social and culinary mayhem. Terrific!

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And while a good Primitivo is worthwhile, one shouldn't miss Basilicata's Aglianico Vulture. 

Absolutely. Sorry I forgot to mention it.

Something else in Matera--you should be able to find 'nduja readily, even though it's more of a Calabrian speciality. If you've never had it, 'nduja is a spreadable sausage of pig innards and fat mixed with dangerous amounts of hot pepper. I have never seen it outside Italy.

Edited by StevenC (log)
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You might consider visiting the east coast too, either coming or going. Several years ago we had a spectacular meal at Ristorante Ribo in the countryside near Termoli. You could spend the night in Termoli as Ribo is only open at night. We also stopped for lunch at the Locanda del Palazzo in Barile ( p.zza Caracciolo, 7, tel 0972771051 - fax 0972771051), a lovely place with wonderful food and very nice accommodations. These both are also recommended by Gambero Rosso.

We spent several days in Matera and stayed in the Hotel Sassi, which is actually in the Sassi - some rooms are former caves. A delightful hotel experience!

In Puglia, our most memorable meal was at Gia Sotto l'Arco in Carovigno, just south of Ostuni. Also loved the Osteria del Tempo Perso.. This is making me hungry - maybe we'll see you down there. :rolleyes:

Oh and I just saw a Gambero Rosso review of this B&B in Naples which sounds great - the Donnalbina 7 ( http://www.donnalbina7.it/english/home.htm).

Edited by MMerrill (log)
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While the car would be sperfluous, don't forget the islands such as Capri and Ischia. Naples is definitely a must. I absolutely suggest Agriturismo Seliano as a wonderful base for the area around Paestum. The mozzarella di bufala and other bufala products are superb and the palce is warm and wonderful.

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Perfect timing..

I am off next week for Puglia. We are going to wing it based on suggestions from friends here in FLorence that are from Puglia.

It is caper season , last time I was there I bought fresh picked capers and salted my own.

Last trip saw Ostuni, Alberobello, Lecce and Grottaglia ( ceramics)

This trip trying to get to Gallipoli, Martina Franca...return to Lecce... And hit Matera on the way back up to FLorence.

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