Dinner in Montmartre?

[DCMark]

A friend is heading to Paris for the first time. I can help him in other parts of France but not in Paris. Any nice, mid/bargin bistros in the Montmarte area that I could recommend? Thanks

[John Talbott]

A friend is heading to Paris for the first time.  I can help him in other parts of France but not in Paris.  Any nice, mid/bargin bistros in the Montmarte area that I could recommend?  Thanks

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Ah, problem here. I live in the 18th and things are pretty dismal foodwise. Beauvilliers has gotten good reviews (check Digest for this and other mentions) but is pricey; 2 pieces cuisine is my local dive, but it's not on the hill; I've tired of La Famille, altho others continue to love it; the Moulin de la Galette retains some charm and reasonable food and La Mascotte has the memories of the film (Fabulous Destin de Amelie Poulain....) and not bad food. Forget the top of the hill.Why stay in Montmartre? A few Metro stops away things get better. Just have him do some searching within the Forum for reasonable places - no one is more than 35 minutes away.

Edited June 8, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[Eden]

A friend is heading to Paris for the first time.  I can help him in other parts of France but not in Paris.  Any nice, mid/bargin bistros in the Montmarte area that I could recommend?  Thanks

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When I was there in Fall of 2003 there was a very nice Creperie (whose name I have of course forgotten) on Rue Joseph de Maistre.

Coming up Rue Lepic from Metro Blanche, you take a left onto Rue J. de Maistre (if you went right you'd be on Rue des Abbesses) and it's just a few doors down on your left. If you look at this map I'd say it was it's just below the "e" in Maistre. And if he can't find it then I hear that restaurant Terrasse across the street (in Hotel Terrasse) is good too :->

[Freckles]

A girlfriend is in Paris for a visit. Where can I take her for a relatively informal but tasty dinner in the Montmartre neighbourhood, please?

[John Talbott]

A girlfriend is in Paris for a visit.  Where can I take her for a relatively informal but tasty dinner in the Montmartre neighbourhood, please?

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Part of the answer depends on how you define Montmartre. On the top, there's nothing of note. Down the hill northward, is the redone (by the De la Garde team) Beauvilliers which is quite pricey, a bit stuffy and has generally gotten "OK but not for the price-quality ratio" reviews. Just a bit farther down on the flat is 2PC aka 2 Pieces Cuisine, 65 Rue Du Ruisseau, 01.42.23.3123, menu at 26 Euro, which I rather like as a neighborhood place.

On the side towards the city, eg south, an interesting place was just reviewed in Wednesday's Zurban - Marmite Bazar, 14, rue Bochart de Saron in the 9th, 01.48.78.51.47, closed Sunday nights and Monday, formula at lunch 15, a la carte 30 E. I have not been there yet but I respect Demorand's judgement.

FYI there was a thread running a bit back with much the same query.

[OAKGLEN]

le Maquis, 69 rue Caulaincourt, is a fine restaurant, out of the tourist areas and frequented by locals. Prices are extremely reasonable. Please reserve (01 42 59 76 07).

[John Talbott]

le Maquis, 69 rue Caulaincourt, is a fine restaurant, out of the tourist areas and frequented by locals.  Prices are extremely reasonable.  Please reserve (01 42 59 76 07).

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I'll go along with that; I didn't include it because I've not been there in a while, but I liked it. It has a very neighbood atmosphere - you'd never know you were 600 meters from Sacre Coeur.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

L'Etrier was a favorite of ours some six or eight years ago. It was a two-man-show, with the chef cooking his heart out and his friend managing the tiny (24 seats?) front of the house with amazing grace. It was intimate, quiet, romantic; we were almost always the only diners from outside the neighborhood. Once in a while we would overhear English being spoken by some American foodie who thought himself terribly clever to have discovered the place. The plates were stylish and delicious and very inexpensive. Little touches like a wecoming aperitif and dish of almonds, offert. This place was so special that we told no one at the time.

Then it seemed to stagnate. Maybe the two became exhausted, or just failed to nurture their concept. Anyway, we stopped going. I would, however, not discourage a first timer from trying it. The welcome never flagged, and the plates were never poor; it just stopped being exciting for us. Because it was such a dear address for us, I would hope that they found their second wind.

[Jennifer Iannolo]

I had a very good, comfort-food experience with a Hungarian meal in Montmartre, but for the life of me cannot remember the name of the restaurant. The place is small and homey, and very much a neighborhood haunt.

If such fare interests you (odd as it may seem to eat Hungarian in Paris), I can ask my friend there for the name. PM me if you'd like me to do so.

[-sheila mooney]

I had a very good, comfort-food experience with a Hungarian meal in Montmartre, but for the life of me cannot remember the name of the restaurant.  The place is small and homey, and very much a neighborhood haunt.

If such fare interests you (odd as it may seem to eat Hungarian in Paris), I can ask my friend there for the name.  PM me if you'd like me to do so.

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Last month the friend who is renting my apt took me to Le Square on the rue Marcadet, next to the Square Carpeaux, just across the street from the erstwhile chez moi. The food was good in a neighborhood-y kind of way (better than the fairly sympathique place across the square on the place j. fromentin -- petit caboulot?) but there was a hip n happenin crowd and i was surprised by the wine list -- lots of nicely priced burgundies (we had a chorey-les-beaune) -- this is pretty amazing because the place was a *dive* just a couple of seasons ago (local alkie hangout).

[lucas thomas]

I have been cooking in corporate dining rooms all year but have not been able to dine out really with a son at home. My son is on vacation with his grandparents for the next two weeks so it is time to make up for lost time. Since he's been gone we've eaten at higuma(rue st. anne) for good ramen, and had excellent ethiopian(kifto) at godjo(rue de l'ecole polythechnique). We will eat La Cerisiaie since it is across the street and I haven't seen the same restaurant named more consistently on all lists. My wife had booked a night and a lunch at Michel Bras but I cancelled it when I realized how much money it was going to cost, not to mention the bill sur place, just to get there. I am thinking of replacing that with Senderens...

anyway...

We're meeting friends in Montmartre this afternoon and would like to eat a decent meal. As you can see from my ethnic zeal cited above I am not necessarily looking for the typique or the perfect bistro, etc., but for excellent meals at small, not terribly serious restaurants. I've got two weeks and you all know more about the scene than I do. I must say that I am proud that this board exists at all, and that what one reads here is evidence of deep commitment. Thanks to all.

lucasthomas

[John Talbott]

Could you pin down where on Montmartre a bit?

The top is a disaster for food, the Northern part where I live is untouristy but not chock-a-block full of opportunities, off the top of my head I'd suggest Le Winch, Truc + 2 Pieces Cuisine and on the Southern side Dan Bau but NOT l'Oriental since their disastrous move, none of which hold a candle to Cerisaie though or Spring which technically isn't on the Mont unless you figure on rolling a ball or St Denis' head down from the top in which case it's still on the slope.

[lucas thomas]

Could you pin down where on Montmartre a bit?

The top is a disaster for food, the Northern part where I live is untouristy but not chock-a-block full of opportunities, off the top of my head I'd suggest Le Winch, Truc + 2 Pieces Cuisine and on the Southern side Dan Bau but NOT l'Oriental since their disastrous move, none of which hold a candle to Cerisaie though or Spring which technically isn't on the Mont unless you figure on rolling a ball or St Denis' head down from the top in which case it's still on the slope.

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John,

Thanks for the response. I don't know exactly where and my wife is telling me to get dresses but I have taken winch and truc+ 2 pieces with me. I'll let you know where the night takes us. I also read the compendiums on Sundays and it almost seems better to be in town on Sundays, but we're often running around in those parts of town so perhaps we'll get a chance to try them out--particularly Le Reminet.

Lucasthomas

[John Talbott]

I suspect it's too late but two other funky places in the 18th that are open Sunday nights are Au Pied de Sacre Coeur + La Cave Cafe as well as a fondue/raclette joint called Les Fondus de la Raclette.

[lucas thomas]

John,

We've reserved at Winch which sounds about perfect--the couple we're meeting is from Bretagne/Loire--and she made us a perfect and true beurre blanc for dinner once. I am sure they'll love it.

Lucasthomas

[John Talbott]

John,

We've reserved at Winch which sounds about perfect--the couple we're meeting is from Bretagne/Loire--and she made us a perfect  and true beurre blanc for dinner once.  I am sure they'll love it.

Lucasthomas

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OK, please report back and report on all the places you're trying; it's good to have a chef's opinion to balance the reports of we civilians.

Also I'll merge everything into the Motherthread on Montmartre.

[John Talbott]

And here is lucas' report.

[John Talbott]

5.00 A real product-driven, friendly, English-speaking, local haven

Le Café qui Parle, 24, rue Caulaincourt in the 18th, 01.46.06.06.88, closed Wednesdays, lunch formula = 12,50 €, menu 17, a la carte 25-30, a no limit on the food Sunday brunch for 15 €, was taken over a year ago by a wonderful young couple (Catherine & Damien) who have known each other for 14 years (and have an adorable and very well-behaved 8-mo-old boy), worked separately in the US and France – Boulud, Georges V, Goumard + Flora Danica. It’s lucky to find a place in this veritable Bermuda triangle between Abbesses, the Place de Clichy and Toulouse-Lautrec’s house and it’s a real safe harbor; good, honest food, all locals, and quite interesting chow and wine plus. Three of us started with a great Corbieres and ended with a Cahors; between which we had a “crème brulé” of avocado and shrimp, a “velouté” of red beans, tomatoes and tiny squid and a ceviche of tuna (all of which were first class); then a barely cooked (as ordered) rack of lamb with a pile of incredibly excellent veggies and an entrecote with salad and potatoes. This inventive chef clearly knows his craft. No dessert but one coffee; thus 3 persons with four entrées, two mains, one coffee and no comps = 103 €, generously split by our guest from Londres.

Should one go? If in Montmartre, by living or touring, about as good as you’ll find.