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Galvin - Bistrot de Luxe


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Brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin will open their first solo restaurant - Galvin - on 5 September 2005. Their combined cooking experience spans nearly 50 years, with Chris most recently executive chef at The Wolseley since its opening in 2003, and prior to that at Orrery (one Michelin star), since its launch in 1997, The Lanesborough, L’Escargot, Menage à Trois and The Ritz.

Jeff worked for six years at L’Escargot in Soho (one Michelin star), and was previously at Chez Nico at 90 Park Lane, The Greenhouse and The Oak Room with Marco Pierre White. Although their culinary backgrounds have a definite Michelin perspective, Galvin will be a ‘bistrot de luxe’, showcasing fine, but affordable French food in an informal ambience. The seven-day-a-week operation also means that there will always be a Galvin in the kitchen.

There will be a short list of approximately 50 wines, featuring mostly French bottles and nine by the glass. House wines are: Chardonnay, Domaine de Mordoc, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2004 £13.75 (glass £3.25) Merlot, Domaine de Mordoc, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2003 £13.75 (glass £3.25)

Interior design is by Design LSM Ltd of Brighton. Dark brown leather banquettes, bistrot chairs, white globe hanging lights, antiqued mirrors, dark slate flooring, ceiling fans, half-open-to-view kitchen, and a display of food photography (by Sarah Galvin).

Launch menu

Pumpkin & cèpe soup 4.95

Terrine pressé of pork, quince jelly 6.00

Gratin of Dorest crab, velouté of girolles 9.75

Pithivier of wood pigeon, glazed chesnuts & beetroot 7.50

Charcuterie maison, sauce gribiche 7.50

Salad of Roquefort, pear & walnut 6.50

Oysters – half dozen 10.50, dozen 18.50

•••

Parmentier of oxtail & black pudding 9.75

Red mullet, shellfish Provençale 12.50

Grilled cod, parsley & coco beans 14.00

Risotto of cèpes & Italian parsley 12.50

Confit of duck, sauce Rouennaise 11.50

Poulet de Landes rôti, forestière 13.95

Daube of venison, celeriac purée 15.25

Entecôte grillé, beurre de Montpellier 16.00

•••

Rice pudding, roast figs & Banyuls 5.00

Apricot tart 5.50

Iced banana parfait 6.00

Chocolate fondant 5.50

Savarin of red berries 6.00

Tiramisu 5.00

Cheese from the board 6.50

Menu Prix Fixe (sample)

(Three courses - 15.50 lunch or 17.50 dinner)

Pumpkin and cèpe soup

Terrine pressé of pork, quince jelly

•••

Parmentier of oxtail & black pudding

Red mullet, shellfish Provençale

•••

Rice pudding, roast figs & Banyuls

Apricot tart

Open Daily

Lunch Noon-2.30pm (3pm on Sunday), and dinner 6.30pm-11pm (10.30pm on Sunday)

(Our thanks to Network London for the info).

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Fascinating! We do live in exciting times. I must admit that, along with all the fashionable new restaurants I couldn't care less about, serious chefs are taking advantage of the no-holds-barred ambiance to launch dynamic retrograde establishments close to their hearts. The London prospect becomes ever more promising--perhaps Gourmet Magazine was right! :biggrin:

John Whiting, London

Whitings Writings

Top Google/MSN hit for Paris Bistros

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It brings to mind the introduction to Marco Pierre White's Wild Food From Land and Sea where he says "cutting right through to the essentials is something I'd like to do...but nine out of ten of my customers wouldn't understand it...thus I have to give them more to look at on the plate." That was over ten years ago; now chefs are in a position to cut through to the essentials, to cook the sort of food they'd like to eat themselves rather than jump through hoops for the guides, a gauche dining public or their younger, slightly misguided selves.

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Of course, and there are lots of other similar examples I'm sure. Galvin bought the MPW quote to mind though because here you have two Michelin starred chefs eschewing fancy pants food for something moe simple that "cuts through to the essentials". Although I never had his food before St John, I think Hendersen has always served very simple stuff - I seem to recall a dish of rabbit served with a single carrot on the side mentioned in a review of the French House in Soho for example

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Of course, and there are lots of other similar examples I'm sure. Galvin bought the MPW quote to mind though because here you have two Michelin starred chefs eschewing fancy pants food for something moe simple that "cuts through to the essentials". Although I never had his food before St John, I think Hendersen has always served very simple stuff - I seem to recall a dish of rabbit served with a single carrot on the side mentioned in a review of the French House in Soho for example

The thing to watch for, of course, is "mission creep"

After all thats what the Canteen started out as - stripped down MPW ("The Naked Marco" so to speak)... but it ended up with a *.

Also Christian Constant's Violin D'Ingres was originally a brasserie deluxe to break away from his heritage at the Crillon... now its got **!

(although maybe these examples just show you can't keep a good Chef down...)

ta

J

More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!
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Booked a table for Wednesday lunch. I was surprised they didn't drop the phone when I requested a table for 8: 4 adults and 4 babies. They actually said that they would have enough highchairs. In case anybody does not like children (and I can only vouch for 2 being used to lunches and being well behaved), I'd avoid Wednesday at noon. If anyone has already booked, my apologies in advance.

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Booked a table for Wednesday lunch.  I was surprised they didn't drop the phone when I requested a table for 8:  4 adults and 4 babies.  They actually said that they would have enough highchairs.  In case anybody does not like children (and I can only vouch for 2 being used to lunches and being well behaved), I'd avoid Wednesday at noon.  If anyone has already booked, my apologies in advance.

Brilliant. Do not apologise. We need more small people in restaurants. I'm particularly delighted to hear Galvin has at least four high chairs. I believe it's called progress.

Jay

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does "Terrine pressé of pork, quince jelly" win a prize for being the silliest use of a french word on a menu?

I'm with jay on the kiddies point. I took my almost 2 year old to Le Champignon Sauvage in March and they were great. I was a bit disappointed by the food but then when I'd previously eaten at that level I'd been savouring the experience. With a toddler, you're always a bit on edge and hoping the meal passes before a tantrum erupts rather than go on for hours and hours so I couldn't give the food full attention and no doubt didn't fully appreciate as a result.

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Apologies:

66 Baker Street, London W1U 7DH 020-7935 4007

Isn't this the former premises of Anda?

Very tricky location, IMO

Yes indeed, ex-Anda, ex-Incognito, since I have lived here, I have not seen a successful restaurant here - I hope they can make it work, we need something really good in this area!

Another dead spot in the area is the one in Marylebone Lane where Relais de Venise is about to open up, ex-The Lane, ex-Pick up Stix, ex... ex....

www.nutropical.com

~Borojo~

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Apologies:

66 Baker Street, London W1U 7DH 020-7935 4007

Isn't this the former premises of Anda?

Very tricky location, IMO

Yes indeed, ex-Anda, ex-Incognito, since I have lived here, I have not seen a successful restaurant here - I hope they can make it work, we need something really good in this area!

Another dead spot in the area is the one in Marylebone Lane where Relais de Venise is about to open up, ex-The Lane, ex-Pick up Stix, ex... ex....

and Michiachi looks to have closed just down from it, which was a shame as it was a nice place.

am looking forward to trying Galvin Bistro, it's about a minute from my work, i feel some expense claims coming on

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