Peter Luger Steakhouse

[slkinsey]

Interesting piece. I've had an amazing burger there.

I should point out, not that it excuses their sloppiness on the occasion of Bruni's visit, that hamburgers are significantly more difficult to consistently cook to a given level of doneness (other than well done, of course), and especially when they are cooked in a broiler (which IMO is not the best way to cook a burger).

[Julles]

As someone who has read reviews of Pete Luger for what must be years, and has been to New York a few times and never managed to get reservations, we finally made it last week. We live 20 hours and a complete time zone away so when we travel we try to check out the local favourites - and Luger's is definitely the most recommended steakhouse. I was expecting sawdust on the floor, dark interiors, maybe a bit formal - however, to me, it seemed more like a restaurant for people who would rather be eating burgers. All that effort - ie cab fare, paying cash etc etc, to chew on a giant steak - sure the steak was good, but yikes, there is more to a meal than that. Maybe I had read one review too many, or was a couple of years too late....... Had other great meals in NY though - to name a few: Babbo, Blue Hill, Les Halles (which I thought would be touristy but was GREAT - even chatted to Anthony Bourdain).

[marcus]

Peter Luger is all about the steak, and no, there is no more to it than that. Some people like the bacon, but I don't. The homefries are decent and the hot fudge sunday is fun, but really the steak is the only reason to go. If great steak doesn't do it for you, then you are bound to be disappointed. People who fight for reservations at Luger's are not put off by the decor, which is really OK, but no better. For real steak lovers, it is the holy grail. The steak at Les Halles is 2-3 levels below Luger's, and rarely are these restaurants mentioned in the same breath.

[jogoode]

As someone who has read reviews of Pete Luger for what must be years, and has been to New York a few times and never managed to get reservations, we finally made it last week. We live 20 hours and a complete time zone away so when we travel we try to check out the local favourites - and Luger's is definitely the most recommended steakhouse. I was expecting sawdust on the floor, dark interiors, maybe a bit formal - however, to me, it seemed more like a restaurant for people who would rather be eating burgers. All that effort - ie cab fare, paying cash etc etc, to chew on a giant steak - sure the steak was good, but yikes, there is more to a meal than that. Maybe I had read one review too many, or was a couple of years too late....... Had other great meals in NY though - to name a few: Babbo, Blue Hill, Les Halles (which I thought would be touristy but was GREAT - even chatted to Anthony Bourdain).

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Welcome to the eGullet Society, Julles!

I'm glad you had a good time in New York, even if you were dissappointed by Luger's. I'd love to hear what you thought of Blue Hill and Babbo.

[wesza]

None of the burgers hit their marks. Mine arrived medium to medium-well. The one that was supposed to be medium was much more done than that. The one that was supposed to be rare verged on raw. Its center was scarily cold.

For me the frustration of a burger needlessly complicated is more than matched by the letdown of a simple burger that's simply botched.

Peter Luger (Frank Bruni)

Soba

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The one thing about "Peter Luger's" customers often either forget or overlook is that if anything you are served is not prepared as ordered "Send It Back" it will be done as ordered without any question. I have through the years returned Lamb Chops, Burgers and Steaks that were most often undercooked, but rarely overcooked and was always pleased with the results.

It may be that being a reviewer it was thought it would be better not to attract attention, but as a regular customer you should get what you ordered and are paying for always. Luger's used to be attentive to customers returns with whomever was in charge comparing returned items with the kitchen order slip to validate where the fault occurred. Often the customer may order a doneness that isn't compatible to what Steakhouse doneness is gaged, such as "Blue", "Rare" or "Very Rare"more difficult to judge what the customer want's.

[oakapple]

For me the frustration of a burger needlessly complicated is more than matched by the letdown of a simple burger that's simply botched.

Peter Luger (Frank Bruni)

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Andrea Strong reviews Luger's burgers this week. Her conclusion is almost identical to Bruni's: they are seriously overrated.

It's a particularly noteworthy conclusion coming from Strong, who hardly ever pans a restaurant.

[Daniel]

I have never read the girl write a bad word about anything..

Edited October 15, 2005 by Daniel (log)

[juuceman]

I have never read the girl write a bad word about anything..

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she's been kind of bitchy lately.. it's nice to see, but doesnt' redeem her history..

she reviews restaurants prior to their openings, discusses dishes that aren't yet being served, and generally has a poor palate, in my opinion.. she lives off of press releases and is a tool for restaurant owners and PR folk..

[oakapple]

I have never read the girl write a bad word about anything..

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she reviews restaurants prior to their openings, discusses dishes that aren't yet being served, and generally has a poor palate, in my opinion.. she lives off of press releases and is a tool for restaurant owners and PR folk..

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I hope this isn't viewed as off-topic, but there doesn't seem to be a proper "home" for the response. Strong isn't a newspaper reviewer. She is writing an email newsletter about her experiences as a diner, and she happens to have some experiences not available to the rest of us. If she is invited to pre-opening parties, or if she is served a dish not on the menu, I don't see any offense to humanity if she chooses to write about these things.

She also writes about mainstream restaurants that are open to the public, and her Luger review was among these.

[docsconz]

Moderator Note: I believe that the few posts here describing Andrea Strong's reviews are so far relevant to this discussion, however, any further discussion of her reviewing style and substance should be brought to another topic.

[gaf]

One Fine Thing New York City Entry #47

The great steakhouse chef has the touch of a masseur. In preparing a soup, sauce, pasta, or panna cotta a cook can - and should - taste and taste, modulating ingredients until they are just so. Even many main courses can be prepared as to permit tasting. However, the steakman lacks this luxury. He must have an internal clock for each of hundreds of steaks broiling. To assure the clock is not in error, he pushes and prods his meat until it feels just so. When I spent a month observing in a fine local steakhouse, I was impressed what these young men could calibrate doneness by the heuristic of the hand: rare steak had the give of the webbing by the thumb and forefinger, and so forth. (This was in Minnesota, where I was told rare means medium rare on the east coast).

Steakmen also have the problem of truculent customers. Customers know how their steaks should be prepared, but medium can cover many colors and textures. If not cooked to their preferred level of doneness, diners, who take whatever fish or fowl they are served, demand that their steaks are recooked. Steakhouses often cook steaks slightly less than what they believe their customer really wants knowing that a hunk can always be cooked more, never less.

At a steakhouse three things matter: the steak, the ambiance, and the service. Get those right and you have customers for life. Combined they create the “idea” of the steakhouse: one’s unique selling proposition in marketing-speak.

Last night some friends and I traveled to Peter Luger in the Williamsburg area of Brooklyn. Peter Luger has been rated in Zagat as the best steakhouse in New York for 22 years running (I couldn’t discover the previous winner, but I guess that it might be Gallagher’s - now fallen on hard times, more than 30 steakhouses are rated more highly in Zagat. Gallagher’s is the palace of meat I knew of as a child - that and Tad’s, the charmingly grisly chain where, if God is weighing, I ate more pounds of muscle - and gristle - than anywhere else).

Peter Luger has been in business since 1887 (a year before Katz’s Deli). In 1950, after Luger’s death it was purchased by Sol Forman; his family stills runs the place, and the women in the family, famously, select the sides of meat from several competing purveyors whom, it is said, save the most glorious marbled prime cuts of porterhouse for Luger.

The decor at Luger is hardly decor. The establishment has the charms of a rather spare (but clean) German workingman’s beer hall: simple decorations (perhaps slightly more elaborate at Christmas time) and wood tables and floors. Peter Luger does not cater to fantasies of an exclusive men’s club or the ultrahip designer strip.

Waiters are known for their gruff New York charm (not Stage Deli faux-gruff, but the real New York deal). Our server, however, had been working for five months (at some point in their career every long-time waiter at Luger had worked there for five months!). He was charming with only the slightest touch of gruff, and he provided us with a menu without (much) complaint. Like the steaks, he will need some aging. Luger is terminally efficient. Had we not ordered dessert, we would have been out the door in well under two hours. We didn’t feel rushed, but there was no downtime between courses.

Unlike most steakhouses, Luger serves porterhouse all the time (steak hamburger is available at lunch, surely a decadent burger). Aside from sides, the choice is doneness.

Appetizers, sides, and desserts remind diners that one travels to Williamsburg for the steak. Nothing else was memorable. The tomato and onion appetizer combined a Vidalia-type onion slice with a beefy and flavorless tomato slice. Covering these slices with the sweetish steak sauce mostly added empty calories. The shrimp cocktail arrived with large meaty shrimp with a cocktail sauce that had a fine punch, but neither the shrimp or sauce justified our travel. The “Canadian bacon” was a thick slice of belly bacon, not true Canadian bacon, and was more dry than moist. Rolls were purchased from TriBeCa Bakery and were fine.

Sides included German fried potatoes and creamed spinach. The fried potatoes had been broiled slightly too long, but were nicely buttery and crunchy. As for Luger’s creamed spinach, I would choose Stouffer’s spinach souffle. Desserts were a sweet cheesecake and chocolate sundae. Both were adequate, but the schlag (heavy whipped cream) was more memorable than the desserts themselves. Perhaps the appetizers, sides, and desserts are not afterthoughts, but it is hard to imagine the family squeezing the tomatoes or potatoes, the way they squeeze the beef. One senses that Luger finds anything other than porterhouse as faintly embarrassing (even if the waiter did recommend these extras, as surely they boost profits).

Now the steak. We ordered a pair of two-for-two steaks: one rare and one medium rare. The rare steak was by far the most charismatic. Most steakhouses use meat as charcoal-delivery systems. Diners are drawn to char-o. Our medium-rare steak had that crusty quality. Luger’s steaks are not as soft as many (these are not steaks to be cut by a butter-knife), further they are not served as a huge hunk of muscle, but are sliced into smaller hunks. The medium-rare steak was a high quality steak, but not uniquely delicious.

The rare steak was another matter. It was less broiled than expected, permitting us to taste the naked beef. I was reminded of the recent “Cote de Boeuf” that I was served at Alain Ducasse. Of course, a Luger steak is topped with butter, and perhaps a little salt and pepper, but the desire to have customers experience an essence was similar. I was impressed. The heat had been perfectly calibrated to produce a cut of meat that was cooked but not past the point where taste gets muddled with the charring. Often charcoal and steak sauce, salt and pepper, leads diners to assume that steak is heavily pungent, but a great steak is like a fine Dover sole; it is a most subtle repast. Whether the flavor notes are those of grass or corn, I cannot say, but they demand a philosopher in the kitchen.

The wine list at Luger is odd. It is heavy on young Cabs from California and Bordeaux. We couldn’t resist a 2002 Chateau Beychevelle - a baby at three years, too young, but at $75 worth tasting, at least if I can recall its taste when it is time to open a 2002 Beychevelle in a decade. Wines this young clearly will not show to their best effect, but the prices are modest.

To eat through New York without visiting Peter Luger is a sin. I have had a few steaks this satisfying - in Fort Worth and in Sioux Falls and a great one before Morton’s went national - but Peter Luger is a temple of beef, even if it has but one altar.

Peter Luger Steak House

178 Broadway (at Driggs Avenue)

Brooklyn (Williamsburg)

718-387-7400

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[rich]

I have had a few steaks this satisfying - in Fort Worth and in Sioux Falls and a great one before Morton’s went national

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

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and Tampa.

[wannabechef]

I know this has already been discussed in this thread, but I wanted to get a fresh and up to date set of opinions on this. Also, I wasn't really clear on the consensus from the previous posts.

What size steak do we order for a party of 3? I've heard so many conflicting things. Last time I was at Lugers, which was for lunch about 4 years ago, I remember the waiter telling us that a steak for 3 was best because you then get the full porterhouse cut. Now after reading this thread, people are saying steak for 2 is the best. Then I spoke to a coworker of mine who goes every year and has had everything on the menu - he said he sees no difference. What's the real deal here? Is it just random luck what you get? Should I request something to the waiter to make sure we get the best serving?

For 3 men, is a steak for 2 enough? Is two, steak-for-4's ridiculous? We're not big drinkers but will probably get one drink and 2-3 sides.

Another question - whats the difference in experience of going on a Sat. night vs. my last experience which was weekday lunch? Will we be rushed through our meal? Is the quality of the meat going to suffer?

Ok, I think thats it for now. Just trying to make sure my infrequent Lugers visit goes as perfectly as possible.

~WBC

PS I play on taking plenty of photos and will post them here!

[oakapple]

For 3 men, is a steak for 2 enough? Is two, steak-for-4's ridiculous? We're not big drinkers but will probably get one drink and 2-3 sides.

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Two steak-for-4's would be enough to feed a football team. Okay, not quite, but it's certainly more than you need.

In my experience at Wolfgang's (which is serving the same cuts of beef), if you order appetizers, steak for 3, and 2-3 sides, three men will not finish everything on the table.

[Dryden]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert. But they could do it. If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

[rich]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert.  But they could do it.  If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

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It's easier if you just flew into Tampa, went to Berns and ordered your steak by as many ounces as you wanted. The wine list is better, the sides, soup and salad are much better and the steak reminds me of what Luger used to be in the late 60's, early 70's.

[oakapple]

It's easier if you just flew into Tampa, went to Berns and ordered your steak by as many ounces as you wanted. The wine list is better, the sides, soup and salad are much better and the steak reminds me of what Luger used to be in the late 60's, early 70's.

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I've eaten at Berns a number of times, and I never found ordering by the ounce particularly helpful. It's the same problem at Greek restaurants that serve fish by the pound: you just don't have a good feel for what you're getting.

[Dryden]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert.  But they could do it.  If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

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It's easier if you just flew into Tampa, went to Berns and ordered your steak by as many ounces as you wanted. The wine list is better, the sides, soup and salad are much better and the steak reminds me of what Luger used to be in the late 60's, early 70's.

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But that's assuming I'd actually want to spend a night in Tampa. I'd rather spend the night sleeping under the Williamsburg Bridge.

[rich]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert.  But they could do it.  If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

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It's easier if you just flew into Tampa, went to Berns and ordered your steak by as many ounces as you wanted. The wine list is better, the sides, soup and salad are much better and the steak reminds me of what Luger used to be in the late 60's, early 70's.

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But that's assuming I'd actually want to spend a night in Tampa. I'd rather spend the night sleeping under the Williamsburg Bridge.

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Actually, you don't need to. Berns is just 10 minutes from the airport and there's a 10:15 pm flight into Newark. What I've done is take a 3pm to Tampa - got to the restaurant at 6:15pm, left at 9:30 and was back in New York by 12:40am. Asleep by 1:15am and fully rested by 6am, ready to start a new day with the thoughts of having the best steak in the world still dancing in my head. Just like Christmas, but without the tree, reindeer or chimney.

[Sneakeater]

Rich, with all due respect, have you ever considered the possibility that you're unhealthily obsessed?

[rich]

Rich, with all due respect, have you ever considered the possibility that you're unhealthily obsessed?

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Yes, I've considered it and have come to the conclusion that you're correct.

Hey, I once drove from Manhattan to Newark, Delaware at 1:30 am because there's a diner across the street from the university that had great coffee - and I was in mood for it. Of course I kidnapped three friends to come with me and I was only 23 at the time.

Once (before I was married) took a girl to Charleston, SC for dinner because she was from there and kept raving about a particular restaurant. Got round trip tickets told her nothing except we would be back late. Made an early reservation and was back at LaGuardia airport before midnight.

One more - every year my wife and I are invited to spend a few days in Fort Lauderdale with some close friends (they own a home on the intercoastal). We fly into Tampa Saturday morning because I arrange to have a tasting menu at Sideberns that evening. The next evening we go to Berns and then drive to Fort Lauderdale Monday morning. We did that two weeks ago and the tasting menu was one of the best I ever had. Of course Berns speaks for itself - the best steak this side of Elsie.

As a bonus this year, I stopped in their wine shop and picked up two oldies to take home - 1974 Inglenook Charbono - $45 and a 1977 Ridge Shenandoah Zindfandel - $60. Great wines, outstanding prices.

So, yes I agree, I'm certifiable.

Edited February 1, 2006 by rich (log)

[juuceman]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert.  But they could do it.  If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

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I frequently order the following with one friend:

onions and tomatoes

shrimp cocktail

bacon

steak for three

potatoes

spinach

pecan pie and streudel

his mother gets to gnaw the bones and the one or two chunks of strip left..

if you order steak for two, supplement with bacon and lamb chops for everyone to begin.. or the off menu rigatoni bolognese..

[Dryden]

3 people at Luger's would be hard-pressed to finish a steak for three with appetizers, fries, spinach & dessert.  But they could do it.  If you order steak for two, someone will be hungry.

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I frequently order the following with one friend:

onions and tomatoes

shrimp cocktail

bacon

steak for three

potatoes

spinach

pecan pie and streudel

his mother gets to gnaw the bones and the one or two chunks of strip left..

if you order steak for two, supplement with bacon and lamb chops for everyone to begin.. or the off menu rigatoni bolognese..

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The thought that only 2 of you could eat that is making my stomach hurt just thinking about it. The first time I took my wife to Luger's, it was just the two of us - she's pretty small, but by the time we finished the tomato and onion, steak for 2, potatoes, spinach and pecan pie, I felt like I wanted to curl up in a corner and die.

[wannabechef]

Here is my Lugers report with photos of course :

3 of us went - Sat night at 5:45. We ended up getting 1 slice of bacon (for me), a salad with b.cheese dressing to share, steak for 3, creamed spinach and german potatoes. Finished off with an ice cream sundae.

Bacon was to die for (see photo below). It really blew me away. I had it once before but for some reason just didn't remember it being this good. The experience of eating the bacon was as transcendent as eating the steak itself. Superb.

Salad was standard mesculin mix. Blue cheese dressing was definatley homemade and excellent. Oh yeah, onion rolls were as good as ever too.

For the star attraction - the steak. It was sublime. To either settle, or further fuel the debate about which size portion is best - I asked our waiter if a steak-for-2 was any better or worse than steak-for-4, etc. He said that our steak-for-3 was two full porterhouses and pointed them out to us on the plate. Indeed there were two t-bones and two filets there. I asked if steak-for-2 was any better and he sort of lauged it off and said they're all the same. I don't know how that can be but this is what he said. I'm still confused.

But no matter - the steak was excellent. Perfectly cooked, nice char and tons of jus/butter. The filet portions were extremely tender and the rest was great as well. This time though, I noticed more of the flavor of the beef that was so apparent.

Creamed spinach was great and potatoes were honestly just so-so. Ice cream sundae was just eh.

The total bill for this, 2 beers, tax and tip was $210. Money well spent in my opinion.

Here are the photos.

Warning: Food pornograhy of a graphic nature follows. (Cue drooling cloth)

Mouth watering strip of bacon

Steak-for-3

More steak-for-3

Yet more steak-for-3

Close up

Sundae

[Dryden]

I seem to recollect that the steak for three and the steak for two are actually both the same thing - they just use the smaller ones for steak for two.

Can anyone else confirm this?