Nathalie

[Jonathan Day]

How in the world I missed this place, I don't know, especially because it's only a few blocks from where I work. But at least I'm not the only eGulleter who failed to discover Nathalie. So, apparently, have many of the dailies.

"Nathalie" is a tiny restaurant in South Ken. It's run by a couple: Eric Chatroux is the chef, Anne looks after the business side. There's one front-of-house/waiter. That's it.

The lunch I had today was, simply, outstanding: fresh ingredients, thoughtfully prepared. We drank an interesting white Graves. Vanilla and chocolate pots-de-creme were beautifully flavoured. The cheese plate had a large selection, and every piece was in good condition. They offer, though we didn't try, a curious "French bento box", where you can choose 2 starters, 2 mains, a vegetable (we had lovely French beans today) and 1 dessert, all presented in small portions -- ₤14.50 at lunch.

Eric said that they are swamped some evenings, quiet others. Lunch today was one of those quiet times -- the two of us were the only customers. If our lunch was typical, it can't have been because of the food, which was outstanding in quality and value. I asked whether Nathalie had just opened. No -- it had been there for two years.

This kind of place is becoming rare, even in France. It's almost unheard of in London. Well worth a visit. It's at 3 Milner Street, London, SW3 2QA -- look it up using one of those mapping website, because it's in an odd part of the road.

[jennahan]

I'm glad that someone here can report back on Nathalie. I'm frequently in the area (passed by the place many times) and also read about them in Harper's Magazine Restaurant Guide (of all places), which said only positive things. I'll definitely try this place soon.

[Andy Lynes]

Restaurant website and Square Meal guide entry.

[Jon Tseng]

Looks interesting

Website here:

http://www.nathalie-restaurant.co.uk/

Would say pricing is keen at the evenings - mains in the £18 range

EDIT also the menu looks dead boring, but as JD points out execution could be good - and thats what matters

J

Edited July 13, 2005 by Jon Tseng (log)

[circeplum]

i reviewed it. had a truly indifferent meal - verging on the bad - which i duly reported incurring the wrath of eric who fired off an extremely irate missive to my managing director.

what fun!

[Jonathan Day]

the menu looks dead boring

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I had the same reaction -- indeed if a client hadn't chosen this place I would have scanned the menu and walked right by. I was positively surprised. The leeks on the haddock tart, for example, are cut fine and deep fried, giving the tart a lightness and lift that the usual preparation wouldn't have had.

They seem to have a few bottles "off list" --

Marina -- when did you review Nathalie? I got the impression that they had problems when they first opened, a couple of years ago, and I think I found one negative review from 2002 or 2003. Do you ever revisit places where you have had bad or indifferent meals?

(Note that, as I said above, we were the only two people in the restaurant for lunch! So perhaps this success was a case of extreme non-pressure on the part of the restaurant. But I don't think so -- the cooking was confident and good, and I'm betting that Eric can do well with a fuller house.)

[circeplum]

the menu looks dead boring

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Marina -- when did you review Nathalie? I got the impression that they had problems when they first opened, a couple of years ago, and I think I found one negative review from 2002 or 2003. Do you ever revisit places where you have had bad or indifferent meals?

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it would be over a year ago. and it was genuinely poor: ineptly executed with duff quality ingredients delivered with the sort of condescending service i thought had gone out with the ark.

and, sorry, no we don't revisit unless something significant happens - new chef, new name, total revamp. anyway, if food was so bad, why would we?

[dallardice]

More interesting I'd have thought to go back to places that had great reviews on opening - when the spotlight has moved on did they keep up the quality? Which will be the better restaurant in five years time - The Ledbury or Maze?

[Andy Lynes]

Which will be the better restaurant in five years time - The Ledbury or Maze?

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I'd be very surprised if Maze was still going in five years time, at least in its present form.

[Jonathan Day]

Back to Nathalie for lunch yesterday; again, we were the only customers. Again, the food was good, and good value at £14.50. We had the no-choice "French bento box" lunch this time: green beans, grilled vegetables, goat cheese and lentils, sea bass, beef, strawberry bavarois, all served at the same time. They come in a tray, on six square plates.

As a service concept, this didn't work that well for me -- the plates rattled around on the tray a bit and it was all slightly messy. And having that strawberry bavarois sitting there until the end felt odd -- more like an airplane food service than a Japanese bento presentation. But everything was well prepared.

[Jon Tseng]

Was the sea-bass overcooked?

From the bento box it sounds as if the main protein items are done on a fairly small format. The natural result of this re fish is that you get a very small piece which is invariably overcooked. Wondering if this was the case here?

ta

J

[erica graham]

Was Nathalie once called The English House? (It was part of a group that included Waltons of Walton Street, The English House and The English Garden.)