• Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
tan319

Sous Vide Cuisine by Joan Roca & Salvador Brugues

37 posts in this topic

Here is a link to the definitive (?) sous vide tech & cookbook, authored by Michelin starred chef Joan Roca..

http://www.chipsbooks.com/sousroca.htm

JBPrince doesn't appear to be carrying it yet, KA&L probably are.

169.95 ain't cheap but I'm sure this is worth every penny.

Enjoy.


2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see what you mean by the necessity of the sous-vide book ... may have to smash the piggy bank!

And on an errant note, as I perused the table of contents I noted a recipe and explication of the following:

Concept Recipe for Indirect Cooking

Suckling lamb shoulder with ewe’s milk

... and couldn't help but smile remembering the ancient injunction "thou shalt not seethe the kid in it's mother's milk" ... and that it supposedly formed the basis of the dietary restriction of consuming milk and meat together.

A charming coincidence.

Regards,

Theabroma


Sharon Peters aka "theabroma"

The lunatics have overtaken the asylum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this book is amazing!!!!

worth every penny, they have made an art out of sous vide cooking

sean

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you've found it pretty helpful, sean?

Are you guys using immersion circulators?

this book is amazing!!!!

worth every penny, they have made an art out of sous vide cooking

sean


2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we've had the spanish edition for a few weeks and it is really helpful, these guys did alot of research and it shows....

we love our immersion circulators, they are so accurate and save so much space, I would say 50 percent of our food is cooked sous vide


Edited by chefseanbrock (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is an immersion circulator? Or more importantantly, where can I get one?


"He could blanch anything in the fryolator and finish it in the microwave or under the salamander. Talented guy."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What is an immersion circulator?  Or more importantantly, where can I get one?

An immersion circulator is a heating element with a pump to circulate the water. It's basically the working parts of a tempertature-controlled water bath without the tank. You bolt the circulator onto the side of a container of water to make a water bath for your process. I have a Lauda MS that I use with a twenty-gallon pot. It has no problem maintaining ± 0.1 °C, which is plenty accurate for sous vide cooking.

You can get immersion heaters (or complete water baths) from laboratory supply companies. You can also find them second-hand, although that may not be a good option if you plan to use it in a restaurant kitchen - health officials may be suspicious of where the instrument was used in its previous life.

nathanm started a topic on sous vide that has discussions of equipment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link,edsel.

BTW, did anyone notice that Wylie Dufresne (wd50) wrote the foreword to this book?

Also, how does one correctly pronounce Wylies last name?

Maybe chefseanbrock can answer that one?

Thanks!


2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the link,edsel.

BTW, did anyone notice that Wylie Dufresne (wd50) wrote the foreword to this book?

Also, how does one correctly pronounce Wylies last name?

Maybe chefseanbrock can answer that one?

Thanks!

Cool that Wylie wrote the foreword to Roca's book. Although Wylie was cooking to a full house the night I was last there, and it was a Tuesday, Dewey Dufresne agreed that critical success has been greater than popular success so far. I suppose you could say that he's not listening to either PT Barnum or HL Menken, or just not craving popular success all that much.

Dufresne is pronounced something like Du-frain or Doo-frane.


Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help, Bux.

That's how I was pronouncing it.

As for his popularity, seems like he's always got a full house according to the threads.

He's cooking about 50% of his menu sous vide, from what I've been reading.


2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
. . . .

As for his popularity, seems like he's always got a full house according to the threads.

He's cooking about 50% of his menu sous vide, from what I've been reading.

I suppose to some extent it may be a matter of how long in advance you have to call for a reservation. I called about a month in advance, that would be par for most places in NY with any credibility -- for an off night. :biggrin: What I don't know is how recently the last table was reserved. From my perspective, the ideal restaurant would fill up the day before. That way I don't have to make my plans long in advance and I don't have to worry about it going out of business.

Most of his food arrives looking as if it were created or conjured, rather than "cooked." I say this with no disrespect. I've had the same sense about Adrià's food. It breaks ground in terms of the way we perceive cooking and food. Adria has been criticized for using "industrial techniques." In essence, what I think that means is that he's preparing food less like cave men in close proximity to an open flame and that it's going to be harder for the average amateur cook to go home and replicate the dish.


Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can anyone tell me if he confits sous vide?

which he

btw herve this wrote the forward for the original edition

why the change

all the same what a great book

takes the fact that two generations of swiss, etc. are using these techniques and eats their lunch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can anyone tell me if he confits sous vide?

which he

btw herve this wrote the forward for the original edition

why the change

all the same what a great book

takes the fact that two generations of swiss, etc. are using these techniques and eats their lunch

My suspicion is that they felt that Wylie may be more familiar to an English speaking, in particular American, audience than Herve This. It may also be that Chef Dufresne is particularly close and well connected with the Spanish avant-garde. I am trying to decide whether I should get this book now or when I am back in Spain later this summer. How far is Gerona from Roses?


John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
. . . . How far is Gerona from Roses?

The Michelin Guia Rosa says 56 kilometers. I recall a fair amount of traffic as well. Much of that was truck traffic, which might also explain the number of young women standing by the side of the road seemingly going nowhere. Naively at first, I looked to see if there wasn't some sort of rural bus stop.


Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can anyone tell me if he confits sous vide?

I'm wondering what the advantage would be, or at least I was. Assuming one used sufficiently high enough heat and you'd have to do that if you were then going to let the finished confit sit around for a while, even refrigerated, then you'd have the advantage of a sterile airtight package. It would be lot like canning. Eating Spain has brought me a new respect for canned goods, as has the introduction to canned boudin noir that's produced according to Christian Parra's recipe from the southwest of France. I'm not only thinking this would be the way to go for commerical confit, but wondering if the vacuum packed confit I've seen for sale wasn't cooked in the same pouch. Would it work?


Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the advantage would be the need for less fat, lower heat, easier storage, and general conveniece and perhaps even a better finished result.

I'm wondering though if it works; it seems to me the density of the fat does something important in the traditional cooking process.

Also, there's a danger of botulism poisoning in the vacuum packed bag held at low temperatures.


Edited by Michael Ruhlman (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
. . . . How far is Gerona from Roses?

The Michelin Guia Rosa says 56 kilometers. I recall a fair amount of traffic as well. Much of that was truck traffic, which might also explain the number of young women standing by the side of the road seemingly going nowhere. Naively at first, I looked to see if there wasn't some sort of rural bus stop.

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Michael,

you may have already checked out some of these other threads regarding sous vide but here's a link anyways, just in case...

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=39023&st=0

I think Botulism gets addressed in here, maybe in the later pages.

Also, nathanm has gathered a lot of knowledge in his pursuits of all things sous vide, maybe shoot him a PM, I'm betting he would be keen to share.

Good Luck!

the advantage would be the need for less fat, lower heat, easier storage, and general conveniece and perhaps even a better finished result.

I'm wondering though if it works; it seems to me the density of the fat does something important in the traditional cooking process.

Also, there's a danger of botulism poisoning in the vacuum packed bag held at low temperatures.


2317/5000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Also, there's a danger of botulism poisoning in the vacuum packed bag held at low temperatures.

If you're using a home vacuum packing system such as foodsaver, rather than a professional chefs' system, it's best to serve meat or duck within one week. (MOre sophisticated machines allow chefs to keep refrigerated cooked food in pouches in the refrigerator for many months.) You can't do that with the clamp\food saver and not worry. So what I do is use the food within a week. If for whatever reason, a refrigerated pouch begins to puff up, discard at once.

YOu can always store home cooked, home bagged food for longer storage in the freezer.

When I make duck confit in bags and plan to switch to long term fat storage for

a complete flavor change in other words, to have the best of both worlds,I transfer the cooked duck and fat to a pan to simmer a few minutes then pack them in earthenware jars and store in the fridge for up to 5 months.

BTW For saftey, all confit should be heated through before serving, even for dishes to be served cold or at room temperature. When I worked in Daguin's kitchen back in the 70's I remember he used to steam the legs

for about ten minutes in a couscous type steamer before frying or broiling or oven browning.

edited after Tan 319's post: Michael: go to that forum asap. Nathanm is an egulleteers "treasure" on the subject.


Edited by Wolfert (log)

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While the result of sous vide cooking is divine, and i would love to know the intricacies of it as it seems to be a totally different mindset from hands-on cooking, nonetheless, am i the only one who feels uncomfortable with all of the cooking in plastic? i am very concerned about plastic molecules leaching into the food.

and maybe i like to smell my food, stir it with my hands, touch it with my fingertips....i do find sous vide removed from the sensual side of life. but truthfully, i do worry about the whole plastic thing.

marlena


Marlena the spieler

www.marlenaspieler.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My wife has the same concerns, but I suggest you check out the sous vide thread if you haven't already. As for me, I'm not that concerned at the temperatures used for cooking sous vide. I'm more concernedabout the potential for bacterial illness if not handled properly.

Is it any less hands on than roasting?


John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my guess is that because the plastic never goes above 212 degrees F./100 degrees C., plastic molecules don't get into the food or affect its flavor. can't deny the lack of sensorial appeal, but cooking anything slowly gently for a long long time is its own kind of pleasure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Is it any less hands on than roasting?

Oh, yes, much less hands on, or rather nose-on: when you roast you can smell the goodness, your can judge the doneness by using your sniffer, you can give it a prod with a utensil, or with your fingers quickly, you can turn it over and admire it, you can add a few cloves of garlic just for the sheer joy of it....though sous vide cooking i gives excellent results (and i've been in enough starred kitchens to see them with their sous vide bags all lined up, stashed away, ready for warming........, it reminds me a bit of........please forgive me..........microwave cooking. that is the food is isolated and cooked according to directions and timing rather than one's senses and intuition.

i guess you can tell i'm not a baker. i hate measuring things too.

x marlena


Marlena the spieler

www.marlenaspieler.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Similar Content

    • By bhsimon
      I want to make mint spheres for use in a hot sauce. (Think lamb with mint caviar.)   Can this be done? Is it possible to make heat-stable spheres?   What is the most effective way to extract mint flavour from the raw leaves? I don't want the resulting spheres to contain alcohol as it will be served to children. My cursory investigations indicate that glycerol may be an alternative—has anyone done this?
    • By boudin noir
      I recently did some halibut steaks sous vide. They were about 1 1/2  inches thick. I did them for 30 minutes at 122 degrees. When i took them out to brown them, they were very fragile. As I browned them they fell apart. They were delicious, perfectly cooked from an eating point of view, but ugly. Too hot, too long or both?
    • By bhsimon
      Anyone tried this?
       
      I'm trying to think of something novel to do for my friends at an upcoming birthday weekend. We are renting a house in the Hunter Valley (Australian wine region) and food is a major component of our weekend. Last time I did fizzy fruit—the grapes and oranges were awesome and everyone enjoyed the unique experience. I want to do something quirky like that again.
       
      The whipping siphon is easy to transport so I'm interested in using it. The siphoned soufflé in Modernist Cuisine, volume 4 page 297, has a chocolate variation that does not require propylene glycol alginate or maltodextrin (I don't have those things in my pantry, yet). That looks like it might be a good one to try. Anyone done that and have some advice for me before I dive in?
    • By bhsimon
      Besides the health concerns, deep frying steak is the best way to get an even colour and crust on steak. In my most recent experiment, I tried the technique of deep frying prior to, and after, cooking the steak sous vide. In the past, I had only fried the meat after it had been cooked.
       
      The meat was veal chops. As can often be the case, the meat was mishandled somewhere along the way. The obvious signs of this were indentations in the surface. This kind of thing makes it tricky to pan fry and get even colour.
       


       
      This soft meat is also tricky to vacuum seal as it can often be further compressed and misshapen in the process.
       
      I was delighted to observe that a short 45 seconds in hot oil fixed both of these issues! I didn't expect that. Nice. The meat plumped up and that indentation was gone. It also held its shape nicely when vacuum packed.
       

       
      Time and temperature matters. The difference can be just a few seconds or degrees. In the next picture, the time was the same but the oil was 20°C hotter for the steak on the left and the crust is noticeably darker. My next experiment will try 30 seconds at 200°C before and after.
       


      The goal is to keep the crust as thin as possible.
       

       
      I hadn't anticipated the secondary benefits of deep frying prior to sous vide. The plumping of the meat and slight firmness made them easy to package and present. I am curious whether anyone has observed this. I am also curious if it would it work in hot water, rather than oil.



    • By Porthos
      I have purchased an Anova circulator. My interest in sous vide is based upon needing to prepare chicken and pork dishes that remain more moist than other cooking methods I have used. This is based upon needing more moistness for my wife. After her bariactric surgery she became sensitive to meat that is not still very moist.
       
      I would like recommendations for some threads to read through to help get me started.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.