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The best of Burgundy?


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in beaune, les jardin des ramparts 1* modern restaurant very good, one of my favourites.

had reasonable food but cheapest lafon meursault i've ever seen at l'Ecusson.

for less formal - la ciboulette, caveau des arches.

avoid bernard morillon, was starred, trading on former glories, unless its recently turned around.

le montrachet in p montrachet, agreed hotel nice but restaurant underwhelming 1* when i went, not anymore.

If you venture out on the n74 the road through the vineyards to dijon then Gevrey chambertain has a few good places.

i had a nice lunch at chez guy

i had some of the best bouf bourguignon at 'aux vendages de bourgognes' which is on the n74, big range of GC by the glass also (the beef is joie du bouef cuisse sept heures (sp?) basically a 7 hour cooked beef cheek.

restauranteur friends are very fond of rottisserie du chambertain too

you don't win friends with salad

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Freckles,

Regarding Olivier Leflaive - I enjoyed a tasting lunch there about 4 years ago, and thought a worthwhile experience. Simple Burgundian fare, accompanied by around 8 wines - none of the heavy hitters but some Premier crus, and it provides a good opportunity to talk to a producer and get a good feel for the region, and their winemaking philosophies. take as little or as much time as you like.

We booked it through the tourism office in Beaune, and if memory serves me correctly teh cost was around ff250 per person.

Have a great weekend,

Kenny

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No problem, Magnolia! I really appreciated the offer and had a great time even without what would have I'm sure been your excellent suggestions. Off to Switzerland for work tomorrow morning, but quick checkin to say: first night stayed in a cheap and sufficient 2* in Dijon called the Jaquemart Hotel. It was all we required for a late Friday night: somewhere to crash and get a sound night's rest after a long day of work and 3-hour drive from Paris. On Saturday night, we stayed at hotel Chateau de Bellecroix in Chagny, which I found on the Karenbrown.com website. I was disappointed, I must say. It was right next door to a Renault dealership, and the view from our bedroom window was of the neon-lit, 2* Chagny hotel. The bathroom was ugly and small, the decor was mediocre... not what I expected for the price and rave reviews from Ms. Brown. Tried to get a reservation at the Lamaloise for Saturday night but it was booked full.

Just looked at the time: it's past 11PM! I'll continue this thread when I return to Paris, this weekend.

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On Saturday night, Xavier and I ate at a sweet little place called "Caves Madeleine" in Beaune. The service was friendly, we enjoyed sitting at the large communal table that ran down the centre of the small restaurant, and the Beouf Bourginone (sp?) that I ate was phenomenal.

Then, on Sunday, we started our leisurely drive back to Paris. Stopped in Chagny to pick up some vegetables and cheeses in Chagny, and stretch our legs before hitting the road. While walking, what should we stumble upon but Lamaloise, where I'd tried to get a reservation the night before? Asked if they had any space for lunch, and sure enough they did. We asked to be seated in the back room (we were both dressed in jeans and windbreakers, and neither of us had even showered that morning!)

The meal was superb but it was definitely too much food! We hadn't eaten since the night before, yet were unable to finish the meal. A number of other diners were overheard saying the same thing. I started with a salmon plate: salmon prepared 4 different ways. Then, I had a Navarin de Coquilles St. Jacques which melted in my mouth like butter. Next: cheese plate followed by a chocolate moeulleux. In between every course there were little... um, I'm not sure what you'd call them... amuse bouches? They were delicious but again, just too much.

All in all, the meal for me and my beau came to about 220 Euros.

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  • 2 months later...

My wife and I were in Beaune in November and ate at Le Jardin des Remparts. I really enjoyed the entire experience. If I recall, I had a wonderful braised rabbit for the entree. They also had a very nice selection of cheese for dessert.

As would be expected in Beaune, the wine list was exceptional.

If you are in the area, Ma Cuisine in Beaune was also a very nice meal.

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I ate at Jardin des Ramparts last year. It was a wonderful meal, but I would nnot call it memorable as I do not remember much of it. But like the other poster I strongly recommend Ma Cuisine. It has an immense winelist, incredible food, copious servings, and unbelievable prices. You MUST call ahead and make a reservation, the place is small and frequented by locals, especially the local vintners!

Paris is a mood...a longing you didn't know you had, until it was answered.

-An American in Paris

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No, Ma Cuisine has no outside seating. Then again I was there in October...but it is in a little side street (some would call it an alley). But seriously, it is an unbelievable value for what you recedive The wine list has wines you would not be able to get anywhere else as the owner is friends with most of the local vintners. Please, please try it and let me know what you think.

Paris is a mood...a longing you didn't know you had, until it was answered.

-An American in Paris

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Have just returned from a marvellous week in Burgundy, where we ate and drank exceptionally well with help from Allen Meadow’s excellent guide, Michelin and local recommendations. Unfortunately Ma Cuisine was closed for the week, but we found Caves de la Madelaine in Beaune an excellent choice for simple hearty fair and the best priced wine list in France – 01 Meo Vosne Chaumes @ 55 Euro for example. Lameloise in Chagny delivered all the 3 star pomp and ceremony and we were most impressed with Chez Guy in Gevrey – not the sexiest ambience but good food and list. Le Charlemagne in Pernand Vergelesses for Japanese meets French fare showed glimpses of brilliance and is well worth a visit.

We received a reco for Chapeau Rouge, a Michelin 1 star came from Jean-Pierre de Smet of Domaine de l’Arlot, and we were extremely impressed. It has only been open for a couple of years, and if they can continue with the obvious flair and attention displayed by the floor staff and kitchen, further stars may be coming their way. It was probably only surpassed food wise on the trip by l’Astrance in Paris, another 1 star that is a must. .

Chapeau Rouge is situated in the Best Western Hotel “Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge” near the centre of Dijon, about a 15 minute drive from our hotel at Gevrey Chambertin.

The dining room is reasonably formal and spacious with high ceilings, wood paneled walls tempered with bright modern art.

As was the norm on our trip we opted for a Prix Fixe menu, opting for the 41 Euro carte, which was far and away the cheapest menu that we had struck in a starred establishment, and was a steal!. Despite this being the best priced menu – there were also menus for 70 and 100 euro, it was an outstanding offering, perfectly executed.

To begin with an amuse of mackerel on a bed of celeriac with coconut froth was superb and set the tone for what was to be a memorable meal.

Entrée arrived and looked the goods. Langoustines on a bed of spring veggies were cooked to the minute and a terrine of foies with red fruits paste on top and served with fresh raspberries was a brilliant textural and flavour combination – the acidity of the fruit cutting through the richness of the foie.

Mains were equally sublime, the magret of pink duck featuring two symmetrical saddles on a good reduction was simple but well executed, likewise the two fish mains were cooked to perfection. The Bass with mushrooms, fried chorizo and red wine reduction was an unlikely triumph.

Desserts were top flight. The “use your sommelier theory” was put to good use when my wife had a weird but wonderful fortified (Spanish, but like an Australian Muscat!) to accompany the dessert of spiced apple, cream and ice cream. Heidi’s dessert of raspberry cheesecake on a biscuit crust was very good, and again presentation was imaginative and visually compelling.

The wine list had good depth and breadth at fair prices , with the emphasis on Burgundy. At the top end there was a good selection of DRCs and a 90 RSV could be had for a reasonable 400 euros. We enjoyed a 2001 Pernand Verglesses from Marc Colin to commence. This had spiced apple and a lot of citrus action, an excellent wine with a solid mineral core. I summonsed a terrific L Boillot 1999 Volnay Les Angles . Lot’s of blueberry fruit built around a silky textured wine of good structure, and a magnificent match for the duck. Because none of the intrepid Burgundy explorers had ever had a G.C 1er Poissenet a 99 Humbert Freres was ordered, strictly for educational purposes. It was elegant with quite a bit of oak derived sap. Soft, round and ready to go.

Coffee, petite fours and the bathroom were all of a 2 star nature and we left feeling as if everything had been overdelivered.

Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge

5 r Michelet, Dijon

ph 03 80 50 88 88

chapeaurouge@bourgogne.net

Bon apetit!

Kent

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Kenny,

Was the Chapeau Rouge in the heart of downtown Dijon? I have nightmares about driving in that city after my hub had to drive on the sidewalk after turning the wrong way on a street that goes one direction during one light and the opposite on the following light! :shock:

Paris is a mood...a longing you didn't know you had, until it was answered.

-An American in Paris

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Yep,

I had a similar near thing when in Dijon, but fortunately the kind, impatient local dissuaded me from doing so with generous use of his horn! :biggrin:

We caught a cab there from Gevrey, but I'm told the Hotel is good to stay at.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I hhad dinner both at the Chapeau rouge in Dijon and Lameloise in Chagny a couple of weeks ago; we ahd the degustation at both places and both were absolutely fantastic. The wine lists at both places were very good.

We stayed at the Montrachet in Puligny Montrachet. A taxi from there to Lameloise cost less than 15 euros.

'You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline - it helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.'

- Frank Zappa

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I have eaten at Lameloise twice. It is everything it could and should be. Perfect service -- attentive but not too, professional but not aloof. Food is exceptional. If you order the standard 3-course menu, you end up with about 7 courses. They just keep bringing little things. I can't remember for certain, but we had either 4 or 5 dessert courses alone! Lameloise is one of the great restaurants and great bargains in France. For 85 euros you will get a meal that would cost twice that elsewhere and three times that or more in Paris. Jacques Lameloise's motto says it all about this place: "There are no words strong enough when it comes to honoring our guests."

I have also stayed at the Hotel Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet a couple of times. Very nice, seems to attract a lot of English and Dutch driving expensive cars. Ask for a room overlooking the street. #7 is a nice corner room.

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I ate at Le Chapeau Rouge last week on the 12th. It fell quite short of expectations. The food was quite good but the service left MUCH to be desired. Apparently there was a wedding at the same time as our sitting 9:30 PM. and the dining room was fairly abandoned. There were very few servers in the room. A few times we had to get up and serve wine ourselves from the table he had placed the bottle at across the room! The prices were fine for a Michelin star but the retaurant just did not live up to that star and therefore neither did the prices!

The next night we ate at and stayed at Marc Meneau's L'Esperance in Burgundy. That was an unbelievable meal! He has truly earned his 3 stars. His service staff is synchronized beautifully. His food time perfectly. And the quality and inventiveness of his cuisine was unforgettable. His someilleirs were quite knowledgeable. (unlike my spelling!)

We also ate at a wonderful retaurant in Champagne by the name of Auberge de Reuilly. It is a Michelin 1 star and probably deserves more. I will post a seperate thread on this restaurant. Unfortunately I drank a little too much their and did not write down the names of my plates!

Edited by raisab (log)

Paris is a mood...a longing you didn't know you had, until it was answered.

-An American in Paris

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I ate at Le Chapeau Rouge last week on the 12th. It fell quite short of expectations. The food was quite good but the service left MUCH to be desired. Apparently there was a wedding at the same time as our sitting 9:30 PM. and the dining room was fairly abandoned. There were very few servers in the room. A few times we had to get up and serve wine ourselves from the table he had placed the bottle at across the room! The prices were fine for a Michelin star but the retaurant just did not live up to that star and therefore neither did the prices!

The next night we ate at and stayed at Marc Meneau's L'Esperance in Burgundy. That was an unbelievable meal! He has truly earned his 3 stars. His service staff is synchronized beautifully. His food time perfectly. And the quality and inventiveness of his cuisine was unforgettable. His someilleirs were quite knowledgeable. (unlike my spelling!)

We also ate at a wonderful retaurant in Champagne by the name of Auberge de Reuilly. It is a Michelin 1 star and probably deserves more. I will post a seperate thread on this restaurant. Unfortunately I drank a little too much their and did not write down the names of my plates!

You should write to the Hotel and tell them of your complaints, if for no other reason than they try to fix it. An establishments response to a well constructed complaint has won me over a few times.

'You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline - it helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.'

- Frank Zappa

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Raisab,

Sorry to hear of your experience at Chapeau Rouge - the service that we had there was exemplary, and probably only surpassed on our trip by Taillevent for attentiveness.

Cheers,

Kenny

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I have eaten at Lameloise twice.  It is everything it could and should be.  Perfect service -- attentive but not too, professional but not aloof.  Food is exceptional.  If you order the standard 3-course menu, you end up with about 7 courses.  They just keep bringing little things.  I can't remember for certain, but we had either 4 or 5 dessert courses alone!  Lameloise is one of the great restaurants and great bargains in France.  For 85 euros you will get a meal that would cost twice that elsewhere and three times that or more in Paris.  Jacques Lameloise's motto says it all about this place: "There are no words strong enough when it comes to honoring our guests."

I have also stayed at the Hotel Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet a couple of times.  Very nice, seems to attract a lot of English and Dutch driving expensive cars.  Ask for a room overlooking the street.  #7 is a nice corner room.

Vedette,

We had a rather amusing experience at Lameloise. Having enjoyed the 130 Euro degustation for lunch we all donned our sand shoes (chasseurs blanc) and took a long walk. On returning we retired to the bar for a few "cleansing Burgundies". By about 8.00 pm we grew a little peckish so we requested a cheese plate still resplendent in our gym shoes. Well, we were ushered into the dining room and the cheese trolleys were presented followed by about 3 courses of petit fours. Amazing!! The most elaborate, involved cheese plate that I have ever experienced.

Cheers,

Kenny

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We also ate at a wonderful retaurant in Champagne by the name of Auberge de Reuilly. It is a Michelin 1 star and probably deserves more. I will post a seperate thread on this restaurant. Unfortunately I drank a little too much their and did not write down the names of my plates!

This makes me quite curious about your meal; I suppose it is about Auberge Le Relais in Reuilly-Sauvigny.

(I was there in May 2002 and I was very disappointed and I did not even found that it was worth one Michelin star.)

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Sidestepping a few steps, but worth mentioning: L'Ameloise has to this date served THE best (couvert) bread I have ever tasted, I was there a year ago and almost got full on the bread alone. Perfect crust, slightly smoky overtones on the outside, but aah, ever so delicate on the inside... Mmm, jummy!

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This makes me quite curious about your meal; I suppose it is about Auberge Le Relais in Reuilly-Sauvigny.

(I was there in May 2002 and I was very disappointed and I did not even found that it was worth one Michelin star.)

The meal was fabulous, the service was good as it was such a small place and very family run. I will see if I can upload the pictures tonight, I will need hubs help to do this as I always shrink the pictures!

Honestly, it was my favorite meal of the trip.

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