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Nigella Lawson and the New York Times


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Well no Champagne for me with brownies. I actually make very intense brownies with Valrhona pure pate de cacao. They're cut small, quite soft inside and iced with a very thin layer of buttered-up ganache. These brownies aren't cakey; they're fudgey. A square with a glass of 1969 Banyuls would have you on your knees (then again that bottle without the brownies would have you on your knees).

Anyway, I've never really enjoyed Champagne with chocolate ( IMO Champagne truffles are the biggest scam in the business). However, I quite like it with very light fruit mousses. This time of year -- and only this time of year -- you can make a wicked fresh strawberry mousse layered with with loads of thin jelly roll cake soaked in Kirsch syrup. A boring classic granted, but excellent in strawberry season when properly done. Now that I'd like with Champagne! So predictable.

Wait, this sounds like another thread...

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On the Lawson/Batali show... This weekend's "Splendid Table" on public radio featured interviews from the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen a couple of weeks ago. Batali said one special with Lawson and one with Bourdain were in the works. Can't imagine what either pairing would look like!

Michael Laiskonis

Pastry Chef

New York

www.michael-laiskonis.com

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mlpc, thank you. I had known about the Batali/Bourdain do Portugal thing but not about Nigella. The former makes a great deal of sense to me as the celeb chef and celeb author are both wonderful entertainers. I'm not sure what the Molto/Lawson show might be about. :unsure:

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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When JLo and Catherine Zeta Jones are offered as examples of "curvy" or even "overweight" celebrities, I raise a sceptical eyebrow.  There it goes now :huh:

I'm just sayin'.

Blue Heron, where are you?

LesleyC, your post had me on my knees. Perhaps you'd share your recipe with us? :wub:

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Blue Heron, where are you?

LesleyC, your post had me on my knees.  Perhaps you'd share your recipe with us? :wub:

stella, sorry I got sidetracked. I'm still in Seattle. :raz: Looks like we'll need more brownies, as well as some savory pie, too, so Jinmyo and the other non-sweets eaters can come, too. :smile: I like all the wine and champagne suggestions, too, .. mmmm.

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The recipe for brownies or strawberry mousse cake?

Lesley, both of those as you've described sound so delicious. I would love to have the recipe for the brownies especially, if possible :wub: . (our strawberry season is so short, I probably would not have time to make the mousse cake).

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The recipe for brownies or strawberry mousse cake?

Lesley, both of those as you've described sound so delicious

If you are willing I would be extremely grateful for both recipes.

For comparison, my brownie recipe follows:

2 oz. unsweetened chocolate

5 oz. unsalted butter (1/3 stick)

6 oz. sugar (1 cup)

2 unbeaten eggs

2 oz flour (1/2 cup)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

pinch of salt

Melt chocolate and butter together.

Off heat, stir in remaining ingredients until just incorporated.

Bake in a greased and floured 8" pan at 350 degrees F. for 23 minutes, until top looks dry. The inside will still be quite wet, but will firm up as it cools.

Allow to cool completely before cutting into squares.

Chopped nuts can be added, if desired.

I prefer brown sugar in this recipe.

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Soba, yes, I've seen it. It's a bit hurdey-gurdey on the camera work, a bit heavy on shots that have nothing to do with what';s being cooked, annoying upbeat music. But Lawson's a competant home cook. I remember once thinking, "Oh, that's actually not such a terrible idea." But it wasn't good enough that I remember it now.

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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Previous Nigella threads have discussed the show--back when the Amanda Hesser/Nigella article came out. I believe the show debuted on the E! and Style networks in the US in January. I'm a little more positive on the production aspects of the show than Jin--in fact, I wrote that it was the most artful, most interestingly produced food show I had even seen--that you couldn't help but pay attention because of the production values if not the ample bosom nicely framed in sweater sets. The snappy, contrapuntal score could annoy some but I found it moved the action along well. (Especially compared to the really tedious or amateurish music layered onto other food shows.)

Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant

Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

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Well this is one thread that I didn't think would live past one or two pages. How wrong I was!!!

hehe

I almost never watch The Food Network anymore....at least since it became an homage to His Majesty of Lard (aka Emeril "Kick It Up A Notch" Lagasse). And that's a shame, because the TFN I remember had shows such as "Taste", Julia Child's series, and other shows which managed to demonstrate a degree of care about food and the culinary arts. Emeril probably serves that function, but I cringe whenever I manage to force myself to watch his program. He might know how to cook and could probably run rings around the Winsome One, but the way he demonstrates his talent to us, the Little People, makes me want to gag. For example, his plating skills are horrendous -- at least, those shown on air. In real life, its probably a different story.

I confess I haven't seen Nigella's show -- at least not yet. Gratuitous abundance aside, its refreshing to hear that she can walk the walk.

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I almost never watch The Food Network anymore....at least since it became an homage to His Majesty of Lard (aka Emeril "Kick It Up A Notch" Lagasse).

I think they should just change the name to,

"All Emeril, All The Time."

I don't understand why rappers have to hunch over while they stomp around the stage hollering.  It hurts my back to watch them. On the other hand, I've been thinking that perhaps I should start a rap group here at the Old Folks' Home.  Most of us already walk like that.

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I almost never watch The Food Network anymore....at least since it became an homage to His Majesty of Lard (aka Emeril "Kick It Up A Notch" Lagasse).

I think they should just change the name to,

"All Emeril, All The Time."

What about the Flaymiester?

=Mark

Give a man a fish, he eats for a Day.

Teach a man to fish, he eats for Life.

Teach a man to sell fish, he eats Steak

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Just heard today of a Food Network collaboration to air later this year pairing Nigella and Mario Batali. Hmmm...interesting.

Wasn't Tony Bourdain looking at pairing up with Batali? Do you figure it's just a ploy to hit up on Nigella, who he obviously worships? :wink:

=Mark

Give a man a fish, he eats for a Day.

Teach a man to fish, he eats for Life.

Teach a man to sell fish, he eats Steak

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Well no Champagne for me with brownies.

At the book party for Pierre Herme's chocolate dessert cookbook (the one written with Dorie Greenspan if there are any others) they were serving a rosé Champagne and a Banyuls. I grabbed a glass of the bubbly and thought I'd have an aperatif before the desserts came out, but the chocolate goodies started coming fast, and furiously. I couldn't get rid of the Champagne fast enough. As for the Banyuls, I recall having refills. I'm not sure if I should blame the chocolate for making me drink too much or the Banyuls for making me eat too much. Herme, on the other hand, touted the Champagne highly and urged guests to try it with the chocolate.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Rosé Champagne with brownies? Oh, I think I'm going to be sick... :blink:

For those interested, here's my brownie recipe:

Brownies (makes about 300)

Melt together and cool to room temperature:

2350 g Valrhona pure pate de cacao (unsweetened chocolate)

1600 g unsalted butter

55 g vanilla

Whip till just frothy

5600 g sugar

2800 g eggs (about 56)

4 tablespoons salt

Add the chocolate mixture to the egg mixture as well as:

2100g all-purpose flour

1120g fresh walnuts

Fill three trays: 4800 g/tray.

Bake 325 F 30 minutes.

For those not interested in opening a brownie business, I'll work on translating this to home measures and dividing it by about 75. :biggrin:

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Think what you like about Nigella but the woman got my girlfriend (a woman of many talents, not one of which involves the kitchen) to start cooking. She makes me tape the show so she can pause it to write down recipes. In our 12 years together she has never ever done that. My hat is off to Ms. Lawson.

"An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." - H. L. Mencken

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LesleyC and Sandra, thanks for the brownie recipes. Blue Heron, well, I am in London now anyway. I have been seeing brownies everywhere, Borough Market, Spitalfields, and none of them look that good, not nearly as good as the one I bought at the Union Square market in NYC in May. Nor as good as the ones I make myself of course. Which pale in comparison to yours, I bet.

I have to say though that this little thread revival warms the cockles of my heart [as well as the heart of my cockles], as I am a true brownie freak. If I can't just drink my chocolate straight, I can think of no better way to get it than in a brownie. Well--perhaps a pot du creme.....

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A blurb in Advertising Age reports that Nigella has teamed up with Charles Saatchi, (the advertising magnate and famed art collector) personally and professionally, and may become the next big thing, nipping at Martha Stewart's heels. Saatchi's ex-wife claims that Nigella stole her man.

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