Cheeses of Spain & Portugal

[pedro]

I am actually from Torrelavega, in the province of Cantabria of course, not Santander. 

Well, in order to avoid arguments of what makes a real/authentic Quesada Pasiega, let me ask the simple question what would be a decent substitute for Queso de Burgos or for Requeson that could be found in American markets.

Gracias

Alex

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Perhaps Mozzarella?

[JesusBarquin]

I am actually from Torrelavega, in the province of Cantabria of course, not Santander. 

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Well, it seems that you are right and they have changed the name of the province since I studied it. I thought that the name of the province was still Santander and the name for the Autonomous Community or whatever you call it in english was Cantabria. Therefore I eat my words, but it's not a problem: ¡siempre tuve buen apetito!,

Regarding the cheese, Víctor and Alex, I'll phone asap my aunt Rosario, who is the best quesadamaker (and best buttermaker, btw) that I know. Hers is the authentic quesada, from my subjective point of view.

And, given that it is not probable that a guy from Torrelavega is right twice out of twice against a half-pasiego like me, , for the moment I go on betting that the quesada is not cheesed,

(Will continue)

[AlexP]

Yes! I knew you were going to get back at me with the whole "Autonomous Community" Pretty good, I take my hat off.

For this dish, I am not worry about what is authentic and what is not, I only care about taste. Jesus, if you can provide a recipe that replicates the taste of Quesada Pasiega, I will be eternally greatful, cheese or no cheese.

Gracias

Alex

[butterfly]

Mozzarella would not work at all.

I don't think queso fresco is right, either, as it is too creamy. Ricotta isn't all that close, but I think it would be the closest in an ordinary American supermarket... The only other option might be cottage cheese--put through a blender... Really, there is no close equivalent to queso de Burgos in the US...

[JesusBarquin]

For this dish, I am not worry about what is authentic and what is not, I only care about taste. Jesus, if you can provide a recipe that replicates the taste of Quesada Pasiega, I will be eternally greatful, cheese or no cheese.

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If you promise not to feel such a dangerous feeling as being eternally grateful to me, I will try to help you,

But, first, the cheese question, which is not at all a symbolic issue for me, but a question of taste: by authentic quesada I mean the type of quesada I have eaten (mainly homemade by outstanding and even semipro cooks in my family) since I was a kid, for almost forty years. Any other similar dessert can be good to eat or even delicious, but it would not be exactly quesada, at least not for me.

Regarding this issue, I have just confirmed that, in the way my relatives cook quesada, the milk must be curdled but you must not let it become cheese. Just a couple or three hours of curdling, putting the whey apart and then you get the milk curd with which cooking a quesada.

To curdle the milk, it is very useful that you use raw milk, directly from the cow, and it is even better if you do not let it cool and add the cuajo just after milking the cow, when the milk is still warm. I know that this may sound strange for those of you who are not used to see naked animals walking around on the grass (why should it be that the name Espinosa comes to my mind? ) but it is not odd at all in the northern countryside of Spain.

Once you get the milk curd (say ca. 2 litres milk for 1 kg curd), mix it thoroughly with sugar, flour, butter, eggs, grated lemon peel, a bit of salt and a little bit of cinnamon (optional). Bake the whole in a slightly buttered and not too deep oven pan for 15/20 min. at 220 centigrades till it is golden.

Alex, maybe you could try to make your own milk curd. My father used to do it often even in Sevilla, using fresh or at least non UHT milk.

I can see also that the frontier between a mature cuajada and a very fresh pasiego cheese is thin. So, I won't rant if you prefer to go on thinking that this stuff should be called cheese instead of milk curd. In any case, I won't eat the words this time: prefer to eat the quesada itself,

[AlexP]

Thanks a lot for the explanation Jesus. I think I would follow the process used by your family if I were in Spain. However, being in Minneapolis I might just tried to find a substitute for the cheese or mature cuajada.

I will be in Santander for La Feria de Santiago in July, who knows maybe I give it a try then.

Thanks

Alex

[pedro]

Mozzarella would not work at all.

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Why not?

[JesusBarquin]

Thanks a lot for the explanation Jesus. I think I would follow the process used by your family if I were in Spain. However, being in Minneapolis I might just tried to find a substitute for the cheese or mature cuajada.

I will be in Santander for La Feria de Santiago in July, who knows maybe I give it a try then.

Thanks

Alex

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You're welcome, Alex. A pity that we will be in Carriedo's Valley only till the 14th or the 15th of july... I would have liked to challenge you in a bolera,

But maybe it is not as difficult as you think to find fresh milk and cuajo in Minneapolis.

[butterfly]

The low moisture mozzarella sold in most US supermarkets melts in a stringy way... not right for quesada, in my opinion. And high moisture mozzarella or mozzarella di bufalo--not the easiest thing to get one's hands on in many parts of the US--does not seem destined for baking purposes...

[Bux]

. . . .

But maybe it is not as difficult as you think to find fresh milk and cuajo in Minneapolis.

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Fresh milk (raw unpasteurized milk) is virtually illegal not to mention very difficult to find in the US.

[butterfly]

Eastern Asturias has been covered on this board before, but I wasn't able to find much on the wild west... We've been quite a few times on day trips from other parts of Asturias, but never during fall/winter...

This time, we're going to be staying for a week (during the puente de la constitución)on the coast near Oviñana--between Cudillero and Luarca. We'll have a car.

We will also be venturing inland to San Martín de Oscos and Pesóz (my husband's family's pueblos). We're most interested in informal spots with good ''home cooking,'' marisquerías, etc. We'll also be doing our own cooking, so any info on local markets or seasonal foods look out for would be greatly appreciated.

We'll probably do at least a day trip to both Oviedo and eastern Asturias. I would love to pick up some of that famed Cabrales and Gamonedo cheese made from summer milk... And also stock up on fabes and smoked chorizo and morcilla to take back to Madrid for winter consumption. Any ideas on good sources?

Also, does anyone know of a cheese producer that is disposed to receive visitors? My four-year-old son (who says tomatoes are ''too strong'' but eats cabrales like nobody's business) would love to see where his favorite cheeses come from.

Thanks!

[Rogelio]

Bada Herrero seems to be the most consistent producer, maybe you can contact (985 845919) and visit them.

[Pelayin]

There we go:

If you are visiting Luarca, you can't miss the truly wonderful "empanada de merluza" at "El Sport", probably the only good restaurant in the village. C/ Rivero 9, 985641078. Rest of the food is not great but the "empanada" is worth a visit.

If you plan to visit Cabo Peñas, there is a very traditional restaurant called "Casa Maravilla" where they specialize in good fish. Great octopus with vegetables. Do not expect great service but food is nice. Ferrero s/n (Cabo Peñas) 985878046

Traditional food from Asturias in El Llar de Viri, in San Román de Candamo, the restaurant being just in front of the train ¿station? 985828022. Do not miss their wonderful "pote de castañas", a traditional stew of chestnuts. Yum. Great desserts also.

Modern cooking in the outside of Avilés at "Koldo Miranda", a restaurant that will earn the first Michelin star soon if Koldo keeps the pace. What a wonderful place and what a great food. Their smoked anchovies are orgasmic. It is located in La Cruz de Illas, 985511446.

Also in Avilés, and if you want to try a "sidrería" I can only recommend "La Cofradía del Puerto" in Avda. de Lugo. Do not forget to ask for their wonderful "rabas de calamar de potera fritas en sartén". Best fried squid I have had!!!. And what a great wine list for a "sidrería". They even have a petit producteur Champagne such as Gimmonet from Cuis

If you are staying close to Cangas del Narcea, Restaurante Blanco is the choice. 985810316.

As western as it can be when it comes to Asturias, you can find Palacio de Peñalba in Figueras del Mar. 985636166

Cabrales is as far to western Asturias as it can be, but Bada Herrero is the best producer year after year. If you are visiting El Llar de Viri, I suggest arranging a visit to "La Peral" where there is only one producer of this soft paste blue cheese. It is quite industrial but I really like the cheese. And you usually can have a taste at El Llar de Viri.

Shall you want to share a table with a couple of young academics from Asturias, just send a private message and we can arrange something.

Best,

pelayin

Edited November 18, 2005 by Pelayin (log)

[vserna]

a restaurant that will earn the first Michelin star soon if Koldo keeps the pace.

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Goodness gracious, why this fixation with Michelin? Heck, they gave one to Paladares in Gijón and it sure didn't make the place any better...

[Pelayin]

Goodness gracious, why this fixation with Michelin? Heck, they gave one to Paladares in Gijón and it sure didn't make the place any better...

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Want it or not, the Michelin Guide is the standard to rate restaurants, and the most appreciated by such an international audience as eGullet has.

To a restaurant, being awarded a Michelin Star means A LOT, in terms of publicity (free advertising) and attraction of new customers. Yesterday's news in TVE1 included an interview with Carme Ruscalleda for getting the third star.

On the other hand, being included in other guides, even with good scores, means much, much less. I only know of one person that uses Gourmetour and none that use Guía Campsa (which surprisingly lists the new AC Hotel in Gijón as "close to the city center", when it is as out of the city as it can be (it is actually close to the industrial area, and not to the city and there is not even a pavement to do a walk, but a road). Go figure.

About Paladares, I dined three times there, one of them was a great experience and the other two were quite uninspiring. To me, Paladares was not at the same level than L'Alezna or El Corral del Indiano. And I do not think the kitchen improved with the star acknowledgement as you say. Should it? I thought that the process is a) you make it well and b) they award you a star and not the opposite.

Best,

P.

[vserna]

And I do not think the kitchen improved with the star acknowledgement as you say. Should it? I thought that the process is a) you make it well and b) they award you a star and not the opposite.

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Oh! You don't say!

[pedro]

I use Guía Campsa and find it quite reliable. But let's not drift too much off topic.

[vserna]

To go back to the topic - the queso de Oscos, from cow's milk, made at Grandas de Salime, is one of the scarce cheeses made in western Asturias.

[butterfly]

Thanks for all of the tips. I hope to do a full report when we return. I'd love to get to Grandas de Salime--weather permitting...

Here are the Campsa listed restaurants within 25kms of where we are staying:

SPORT Sin Soles Pº.Rivero, 9 LUARCA

CASA CONSUELO Sin Soles CT.N-634, OTUR

LA BARCAROLA Sin Soles CL.las Armas, 15 NAVIA

TABERNA VIAVÉLEZ PUERTO Muelle de Viavélez, s/n. VIAVÉLEZ

LA CUEVA Sin Soles Oviñana, s/n. OVIÑANA

AL SON DEL INDIANO Sin Soles CL.Conde de Casares, 1 MALLEZA

CASA JUAN DE LA TUCA Sin Soles BEIFAR

BALBONA Sin Soles CL.Pico Merás, 2 PRAVIA

CASA EMBURRIA Sin Soles CL.El Crucero, 17 TINEO

CASA LULA Sin Soles El Crucero, 10 TINEO

L'ALEZNA CL.La Rienda 14 CACES

MARIÑO Sin Soles CL.Concha de Artedo, CONCHA DE ARTEDO

LA CASONA DE PÍO Sin Soles CL.Riofrío 3 CUDILLERO

Other than the aforementioned Sport (with the highly recommended empanadas de merluza)--has anyone been to any of these?

Thanks!

edited because my US keyboard is not cooperating with my Spanish operating system...

Edited November 23, 2005 by butterfly (log)

[Rogelio]

Thanks for all of the tips. I hope to do a full report when we return. I'd love to get to Grandás de Salime--weather permitting...

Here are the Campsa listed restaurants within 25kms of where we are staying:

CASA CONSUELO  Sin Soles  CT.N-634,    OTUR 

LA BARCAROLA  Sin Soles  CL.las Armas, 15  NAVIA   

TABERNA VIAVÉLEZ PUERTO    Muelle de Viavélez, s/n.  VIAVÉLEZ

LA CUEVA  Sin Soles  Oviñana, s/n.  OVIÑANA 

AL SON DEL INDIANO  Sin Soles  CL.Conde de Casares,  1  MALLEZA

CASA JUAN DE LA TUCA  Sin Soles    BEIFAR 

BALBONA  Sin Soles  CL.Pico Merás, 2  PRAVIA   

CASA EMBURRIA  Sin Soles  CL.El Crucero, 17  TINEO 

CASA LULA  Sin Soles  El Crucero, 10  TINEO

L'ALEZNA    CL.La Rienda 14  CACES  985 798 355  21.9 Km  Mapa 

MARIÑO  Sin Soles  CL.Concha de Artedo,  CONCHA DE ARTEDO 

LA CASONA DE PÍO  Sin Soles  CL.Riofrío 3  CUDILLERO     

Other than the aforementioned Sport (with the highly recommended empanadas de merluza)--has anyone been to any of these?

Thanks!

I've been to Casa Consuelo wich is a crowdy road restaurant with good product and superb fabada, and L'Alezna, a nice and modern hard to find restaurant near Oviedo.

I've heard good reviews about Juan de la Tuca which is a navarrian restaurant runned by two sisters with good codfish dishes.

Taverna Viavelez closed a few months ago.

[Eric_Malson]

Here are the Campsa listed restaurants within 25kms of where we are staying:

SPORT  Sin Soles   Pº.Rivero, 9  LUARCA   

CASA CONSUELO  Sin Soles   CT.N-634,    OTUR 

LA BARCAROLA  Sin Soles   CL.las Armas, 15  NAVIA   

TABERNA VIAVÉLEZ PUERTO     Muelle de Viavélez, s/n.  VIAVÉLEZ

LA CUEVA  Sin Soles   Oviñana, s/n.  OVIÑANA 

AL SON DEL INDIANO  Sin Soles   CL.Conde de Casares,  1  MALLEZA

CASA JUAN DE LA TUCA  Sin Soles    BEIFAR  

BALBONA  Sin Soles   CL.Pico Merás, 2  PRAVIA   

CASA EMBURRIA  Sin Soles   CL.El Crucero, 17  TINEO  

CASA LULA  Sin Soles   El Crucero, 10  TINEO

L'ALEZNA     CL.La Rienda 14  CACES

MARIÑO  Sin Soles   CL.Concha de Artedo,  CONCHA DE ARTEDO  

LA CASONA DE PÍO  Sin Soles   CL.Riofrío 3  CUDILLERO     

Other than the aforementioned Sport (with the highly recommended empanadas de merluza)--has anyone been to any of these?

Thanks!

Of the restaurants above, the only one I have been to is Al Son del Indiano in Malleza. The food is a slightly modern take on traditional cooking that tends not to interest me as much as straight-down-the-line traditional preparations... Almost miraculously, I just this moment found my notes on my meal there: we had a tasting menu that consisted of pastel de ortigas, salpicón de fabes, chosco, pimientos rellenos and repollos rellenos (con buey) (excellent), pitu de caleya (probably my favorite because it was the simplest dish), estofado de buey, and mousse de arándanos. Excellent cooking, with heavy emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients. It's a favorite of my friend who plays in the Orquesta del Principado de Asturias, and he definitely knows his food.

Just found the website... to my mind the menú de degustación is a particularly good deal at 35 euros (including wine): Al Son del Indiano

I have always wanted to go to Casa Consuelo, but never have... it's very famous, and I'm told it's for a good reason.

Glancing at my notes for that part of Asturias, I see I haven't done much memorable eating there, but I haven't spent a lot of time there, either--I tend to hang out in the central and eastern parts of the province. I had some great seafood at La Gaviota in Puerto de Vega (definitely worth a detour, in my opinion), and I can enthusiastically second Pelayin's recommendation for Casa Maravilla in Cabo Peñas. I had an excellent meal at Guernica in Luanco, but it was so ungodly expensive that it was difficult to abandon myself to complete enjoyment.

The best meal I ever had in this part of Asturias was in Castropol. I don't know if you'll be going quite so far west, but it could very well be worth for a trip to Casa Vicente. It's right on the main road, perched next to the Eo estuary. Sort of an upscale take on traditional cooking (I still remember a lovely pastel de merluza y centollo) and not particularly expensive considering the very high quality.

Edited to add: It finally occurred to me to re-read Butterfly's original post, and I realized I have been to San Martín de Oscos. In nearby Villanueva de Oscos, the restaurant Los Oscos is quite good. My memory is a bit hazy on this, but I think I had a wonderful cabrito dish here, but I could be confusing this with another place (my notes for some trips are better than for others...). I have a star by my annotation for La Cerca in Santa Eulalia de Oscos, so I must have had an excellent meal here. In San Martín de Oscos, La Marquesita has a good reputation, but I never ate there (at least I don't think I did... ). All of these places, by the way, feature more traditional, "home" cooking, as per butterfly's request!

In Pesoz, Mesón As Cortes (<--link) looks and sounds like just my kind of place (and from her post, butterfly's too), but I've never been. I have to say my curiosity is piqued, though....if you go, I'd love a report!

Edited November 25, 2005 by Eric_Malson (log)

[vserna]

Stop at the 70 year-old Casa Consuelo, order a pote asturiano (Asturian stew), then a merluza a la sidra, and be happy with the simple things in life...

[Eric_Malson]

I just remembered that in a couple of her books, Penelope Casas mentions a woman in Sotres (near Arenas de Cabrales) that, at last writing (2000, I believe), still made--by hand--one cabrales cheese every day. Her name is Hortensia Fernández González, and even if you aren't actually able to watch her make a cheese, I think a trip to Sotres sounds like it would definitely be worth making anyway.... I imagine you could learn something about cheese-making there, and the drive there itself sounds incredibly beautiful.

A short article mentioning this by Penelope Casas can be found here.

[butterfly]

Thanks so much for all of the additional info. We're definitely seeking out the simple things. Spain has taught me well that this is the path to contentment...

I'd love to go to Sotres--and I've been closeby before, it is indeed breathtaking scenery--but I doubt I'd make it in a rental car at this time of the year!

(Pelayín--do you think we'll have any problems on the Autovía driving over the pass from Castilla? I'm a bit worried after seeing all of those snowbound pictures in the paper yesterday.)

I'll definitely report on what we find in San Martin de Oscos and Pesoz. I think the place that you mentioned--La Marquesita--is owned by my husband's distant relatives. And it's news to me that Pesoz/Pezos (I've seen it spelled both ways) has a Meson. Perhaps this is in the little general store... It's such a tiny little aldea--many more cows than people. When we drove there almost ten years ago, just the presence of our car turned heads on the tiny little road leading to the town.

[dfunghi]

Hortensia no longer makes cheese. I was in Sotres in May and went by her house. Some of her family were around and told me she no longer made cheeses. She is very old and was having trouble maintaining her livestock is what they told us. There are other cheese makers in and around Sotres. We also went up to a town where the Picon is made but the name of it eludes me at the Moment. Becas or Begas maybe. I can check my notes. It is at the top of a long mountain road that I imagine would be very snowy in winter. However there were a few cheese makers there and we met a couple . Other than that we had good luck just asking around for queso or fromag locolita.Even in my bad spanish I was able to locate some. Ask in gas stations or little bars. Or look for little signs pointing down dirt roads.

David