Making a great vinaigrette

[thecuriousone]

Hi all-

Is there a trick to vinagrette?. I go out to serious restaurants and have these salads where the vinagrette is like silk over the greens. Perfect emulsions, that are almost translucent, but pack plenty of flavor and never seperate.

I go home and try to re-create them. I can only get two out of three at any one time. If its light and well emulsified, it doesnt have the punch, if it has great flavor, it looks like mushroom gravy and detracts from the look of the salad.

Is it the use of dry mustard vs. wet? This is actually a pretty big deal for me because my idea of heaven is a vibrant salad compose (lettuce, roasted sweet potato slices, steamed broccoli, hard boiled eggs topped with a little tuna and chopped arugula) and a glass of wine.

Thanks in advance for anyone who cares to share a secret or direct me to a book which will give me some additional ideas.

p.s. My standard dressing recipe is as follows:

1 tbs. basalmic vinegar

1/2 tsp strong french mustard

salt, pepper

4 tbs oil (usually a vegetable/olive oil split)

1 tbs whatever fresh herbs that are in the garden, minced.

1 med shallot, minced

[Kokh Leffle]

Hi thecuriousone

It sounds to me like you are on the right track. There is not a great secret to vinaigrette. Whisk everything but the oil well, and then start streaming in your oil. Start with a scant drop at a time and then increase the flow as you dressing emulsifies.

If you want a lighter color substitute the balsamic for white wine or cider vinegar. I usually keep my vinegar to oil ratio at 1:3. However, that’s a personal preference. If you aren’t achieving a good emulation, try increasing your mustard a bit. If you find the punch lacking, try increasing your salt just a bit. Another thing to keep in mind is that different vinegars have different levels of acidity and that would consequently affect the final taste.

The best way to taste your vinaigrette (or any other dressing) is on a piece of lettuce.

I hope that helps.

Elie

[maggiethecat]

I agree with Kokh that your on the right track, and his (or her) suggestions are excellent. Vinaigrette is one of those wonderfully variable sauces that you can twist and tweak depending on your taste and what ingredients you have on hand.

I am invoking Martha Stewart. Somewhere she wrote that everyone said her vinaigrette was just the best, and you know, it probably is. She divulged her truc: a big pinch of sugar-- not even a quarter teaspoon. I tried it, and once again, she was right. It doesn't add sweetness, but it adds a little depth and roundness.

[godito]

What you said reminds me of something Thomas Keller (and of course Michael Rhulman) wrote in The French Laundry about Hollandaise, and how it used to be a mistery for him.... sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.

As for vinagrettes go, mustard just keeps the emulsion estable, you don't even really need it. It justhelps a great deal. Like Kokh said, the biggest advice I can give you is to whisk everything but the oil WELL. We used to mix big batchen in food processor at high speed. Just let it thicken by movement. Specially helpfull when using eggs (as in Cesar dressing) or mustard. Then, still whisking vigorously, add the oil in a gentle stream until you see the misture thicken. If you're using a food processor or blender, you will actualy hear a sound change.

As for ratios, like I said, add enough oil to get the consistency you like, but the 3-1 oil to vinegar ratio is a good rule-of-thumb. I also like the tip of adding sugar. It adds depth to the sauce because it contrasts with the acidity..., this is why honey-mustard dressing is soooo good

[NickV]

As far as getting a good emulsion goes, I usually just keep a small jar with a tight fitting lid around and shake my dressings in that. I've always had good luck with olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and shredded fresh basil.

[pam claughton]

I use almost the same recipe, adapted from Julia Child, but with a bit of Lemon juice, and almost double the oil.

I make it in a big coffee cup, and use a stick blender, and whiz up the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, dijon mustard, salt, shallots, and a bit of garlic, then I drizzle the oil in slowly. The blender makes a perfect emulsion.

:) Pam

[bleudauvergne]

I have never even thought of using the blender to make a sauce vinaigrette. For me it's a fork or a whisk if I'm making a large salad, and its prepared just before the salad comes to the table. I don't measure, and don't use a recipe, but it normally has oil, vinegar or lemon juice, dried mustard, salt and pepper plus whatever else according to the makeup of the dish I'm serving it with.

A knife point or two of dried ground mustard instead of a prepared mustard sauce that comes in a jar works best for me, it does its job without the strong flavor of the prepared mustard interfering with the balance of the sauce.

I often mix in some of the cooking juice from a meat dish when I'm preparing a vinaigrette, it adds some depth to the flavor.

As for vinegar, I often choose to use plain simple red, or sherry vinegar to keep the zing in my vinaigrette if its just a simple salad. Basalmic has its uses but can also be too sweet sometimes.

For me when making a vinaigrette sauce, I like to consider what it is being served with and adjust accordingly. I prepare my vinaigrette just before we bring out the salad. Carrots like a higher basalmic ratio or some orange juice added. Endives like finely chopped walnuts added to the mix and a neutral oil. Cold fish goes well with a lemon juice vinaigrette. I used to add garlic but now only do from time to time. When I have some, I will not hesitate to add mashed roasted garlic to my vinaigrette to add a nice subtle mellow garlic flavor.

I normally use very fruity olive oil but will mix with other oils depending what I'm serving.

Salt is important. Sometimes I'll mash an anchovy and add it to the sauce to give it some kick.

[Wolfert]

I begin with a minced shallot soaked in the vinegar for 10 minutes before I mix in the other seasonings.

[Susan G]

It's all about ingredients: shallots, salt, pepper, rasberry vinegar and walnut oil, sometimes with a splash of orange juice.

[Shalmanese]

The best vinagrettes I've ever made was using the fat from the bottom of a pan of roasted chicken. The depth and roundness of flavour was incredible.

[jackal10]

To get it silky smooth you need help with the emulsification, either s super high speed blender, or a emulsifier like a cream maker or an additive. Mustard helps, or a pureed shallot, or a little lecithin (available from health food stores)

[Fernwood]

Does the type of oil affect the quality of the emulsion? It was a big revelation to me recently when I learned (via eCGI or H McGee, I'm not sure which) that extra-virgin olive oil is NOT best for mayonnaise, because the chemistry of it makes the mayo break more easily than a more refined oil. Is this a significant effect in vinaigrette, as well?

Fern

[russ parsons]

i'm normally a pretty basic vinaigrette guy--like paula i soak the minced shallot in vinegar for 5 or 10 minutes to soften it, then add the oil and shake it in a small jar (i've found this makes a smoother, longer-lasting emulsion than whisking or stirring with a fork). but there's a neat technique in bouchon where you emulsify half of the oil with mustard and vinegar in a blender and then add the other half gradually. the result is a vinaigrette that is almost as thick as a mayonnaise--not the one holy vinaigrette, but certainly a nice version.

[daniellewiley]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

We have a huge wooden salad bowl. I usually start by mashing garlic with fleur du sel. I'll then add a touch of dijon (smooth or coarse grain), some vinegar (usually sherry) and then the olive oil.

For variations, I'll mash up some capers or olives (or use olive paste). Sometimes I'll add some freshly grated Parmigiano.

If it's a Greek-style dressing I'm after, I sub lemon juice for the vinegar and add a touch of dill.

Once the dressing is done, I add the salad.

A huge benefit to this method - Dylan loves helping me. Once I get the garlic started, she's pretty good at mashing it up well, and it keeps her occupied while I wield the 8 inch chef's knife to cut the veggies for the salad.

[CaliPoutine]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

We have a huge wooden salad bowl. I usually start by mashing garlic with fleur du sel. I'll then add a touch of dijon (smooth or coarse grain), some vinegar (usually sherry) and then the olive oil.

For variations, I'll mash up some capers or olives (or use olive paste). Sometimes I'll add some freshly grated Parmigiano.

If it's a Greek-style dressing I'm after, I sub lemon juice for the vinegar and add a touch of dill.

Once the dressing is done, I add the salad.

A huge benefit to this method - Dylan loves helping me. Once I get the garlic started, she's pretty good at mashing it up well, and it keeps her occupied while I wield the 8 inch chef's knife to cut the veggies for the salad.

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me, me, me, me!!

I make mine in the bowl too!! I then dump the salad on top and toss with tongs.

I add a finely chopped shallot too and I'f I want a greek style dressing, I'll use fresh oregano.

Gosh, I cant wait till SUMMER!!!!

[daniellewiley]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

me, me, me, me!!

I make mine in the bowl too!! I then dump the salad on top and toss with tongs.

I add a finely chopped shallot too and I'f I want a greek style dressing, I'll use fresh oregano.

Gosh, I cant wait till SUMMER!!!!

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Randi, if it weren't for the sweet noodle kugel, I'd say we're food sisters.

[russ parsons]

Does the type of oil affect the quality of the emulsion?  It was a big revelation to me recently when I learned (via eCGI or H McGee, I'm not sure which) that extra-virgin olive oil is NOT best for mayonnaise, because the chemistry of it makes the mayo break more easily than a more refined oil.  Is this a significant effect in vinaigrette, as well? 

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no. a vinaigrette is by nature an unstable emulsion, not intended to last for more than 5 or 10 minutes.

[russ parsons]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

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even more primitive, i usually make vinaigrette just by tossing some oil/acid/salt right onto the greens and giving them a vigorous tossing. works just fine for dinner.

[daniellewiley]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

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even more primitive, i usually make vinaigrette just by tossing some oil/acid/salt right onto the greens and giving them a vigorous tossing. works just fine for dinner.

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That's what I grew up with, but I love rubbing the garlic all over the bowl - I feel somehow like I'm missing out if I don't get that extra flavor.

[Smithy]

Does anyone else make their vinaigrette right in the bowl?

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even more primitive, i usually make vinaigrette just by tossing some oil/acid/salt right onto the greens and giving them a vigorous tossing. works just fine for dinner.

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That's what I grew up with, but I love rubbing the garlic all over the bowl - I feel somehow like I'm missing out if I don't get that extra flavor.

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Someplace I read that the best way to dress a salad with a vinaigrette is to toss the greens with the oil (after rubbing garlic in the bowl), then start adding the vinegar and spices. The oil coating helps the rest of it to stick to the leaves and distribute more evenly. I confess, I rarely do it that way (or by mixing it all in the bowl before adding greens) because I'm prone to making large batches in a bottle so I'll have some later. The two-stage tossing seems to work, though. Any comments? Does anyone else do it this way?

[Shalmanese]

Does the type of oil affect the quality of the emulsion?  It was a big revelation to me recently when I learned (via eCGI or H McGee, I'm not sure which) that extra-virgin olive oil is NOT best for mayonnaise, because the chemistry of it makes the mayo break more easily than a more refined oil.  Is this a significant effect in vinaigrette, as well? 

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no. a vinaigrette is by nature an unstable emulsion, not intended to last for more than 5 or 10 minutes.

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I don't know how I did it but somehow I managed to make a thick, sludgy, almost plastic emulsion of a vinagrette with a stick blender that lasted for several weeks in my fridge.

[PassionateChefsDie]

Hi all

I've always found the best way is make a bit anyway you like dont worry if it splits! Pour into a bottle or empty container with tight lid and shake like mad.

It will split as someone mentioned without an emulsifer, isn't mayonaisse just a vinagrette with an egg yolk.

It's always easier if you're making large quanties seems you have a larger area to start the "emuslification" with, but in the same breath if it didn't split after a while i've always thrown it away something has emulsified it.

A true vinagrette isn't really an emulsification apart from the mustard which is helping(Not emulsifying) there isn't really an ingredient that is emusifying not in the same sense as egg yolk which is a mixture of fat, protien and water already mixed.

I'm a nightmare for seeing how much oil I dare put into my mayonaisse before it will split, and then finishing with a bit of boiling water to stabilise it.

Have seen a thread about emulsification on here somewhere lecithen is working the same way as flour does in a white sauce, it will stabilise and will create an "emulsification" but I think its about the swelling of the particles and the interaction with the oil and vinegar rather than what egg does. I may stand corrected if I'm wrong but as it's a product of soya I struggle to see it's similaraties to egg yolk!

Hope this helps

Stef

Edit to add link

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...=emulsification

This more the science, I was just wondering whether because lecithen is starch based(Is it?) it falls out of the science! I do agree with jackal10 at the end of the day we're cooks not sciencetists(God knows how you spell it)!

Thanks for link Jackal didn't know this had been covered somewhere else.

Edited May 17, 2005 by PassionateChefsDie (log)

[jackal10]

Vinagrette is a water-in-oil-emulsion, that is drops of water in an oil carrier, unlike mayonnaise which is the other way round with oil drops in a water continuous phase. The mustard particles act as a nucleation centres for the water drops.

I discuss this briefly in the eGCI non-stock sauces unit http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=29574

Two of oil to one of water is traditional. Most vinegars are too strong, and should be diluted by half.

What I haven't tried, but which might work, by analogy with making mayonnaise with the water and oil phases inverted, is to add the water or vinegar to the oil drop by drop while whisking vigourously..

There is an old debate of whther to add vinegar first or oil first to the salad if making it directly. Oil first coats the leaves better, but vinegar first adds more flavour...

[Marco_Polo]

I've never considered any other way to make vinaigrette than in a salad cruet. My mother always used a waisted, green glass one with a glass stopper. We use a wide mouth Dartington crystal variation with a big cork stopper.

Everything is simply added by eye, no measurements: Italian extra virgin olive oil (not our best, we keep that for drizzling); red wine vinegar (my own homemade, quite mild) - the ratio for us is 4 or 5:1 oil to vinegar; a pinch of salt - not too much; an immense quantity of coarsely ground black pepper - can't have too much. Nada más. No mustard, no garlic, no sugar, no shallots. Just oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

We make this in large quantity so that we always have vinaigrette on hand (we eat salad every night). To serve simply shake the cruet like a madman before dressing to create an emulsion of sorts. Toss leaves well using hands or salad servers. Most important secret is not to overdress, that and having good lettuce to begin with (not the crap that comes pre-washed in bags).

Yes, occasionally we vary our salad dressing (for Caesar, or occasionally a mayo- or yoghurt-base). But not often. I have never ever understood why people purchase salad dressing from supermarkets. It seems the biggest waste of money on earth.

MP

[bleudauvergne]

I have never ever understood why people purchase salad dressing from supermarkets. It seems the biggest waste of money on earth.

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Amen to that.

I think I'll look into salad cruets this afternoon, it's a nice idea.