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North Yorkshire Moors & Coast


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took the train from london to york, rented a car and drove to a friend's gran's house in liverton village, 13 miles from whitby. After taking in the stunning moors and coastline (deserted beaches), we headed over to whitby and, relying on The Good Food Guide (only Whitby entry) and the size of the cue outside, selected the magpie cafe for dinner. the wait was about 20 minutes on a friday evening and we were seated only after agreeing to share with a three (no problem). the restaurant is located harbourside over two stories of a house -- very casual and busy. we started with the "whitby crab starter" -- whitby crab piled on a bed of lettuce with a couple of sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and russian dressing on the side. crab was fresh and delicious with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon. we also shared a large seafood hotpot -- a flavorful seafood broth with large pieces of salmon, scallop, prawns, whitefish, etc. etc. we were each going to order a different fish and chips, but the waitress talked us into the fish and chip sampler (for lack of a better word) which came with a large piece each of plaice, skate, cod, and haddock. it was enough for three or four, but we worked hard at it. chips were very good, a little soggy, and the fish (except for the plaice) was ultra fresh. batter was just right, not greasy but crunchy and fish remained light in spite of its recent deep fry bath. the cod was extraordinary -- firm and slightly sweet. the skate and haddock were also good--in particular the skate seemed to be fleshier than skate i've had in the past. the plaice was the only disappointment with the flesh sort of mushy and falling apart on the fork. it was too much food, so we decided to share the sticky toffee pudding (served as a small cake) with custard. it was a treat of dark sugary goodness in a butter-yellow sea...and a joy to watch the toffee syrup ooze into the custard with each bite!

next day on our way back to york we selected the michelin starred the star inn in harome. not possible to eat in the dining room so we got a table in the bar which was just gorgeous...low roof, blazking fire,nice wines by the glass and tasty fried pork rinds at the bar.

wait was about 15 minutes on a saturday afternoon. the menu was lovely with a large blackboard full of specials. to start i had a wensleydale cheese and mushroom risotto with a salad of small english asparagus and mixed leaves. sadly i see my limits as a food writer with this review -- i'll just go with "perfect" to describe the risotto. my companion had the most extraordinary pile of black pudding and foie gras and roast apple -- the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the meats. our mains -- i had lamb leg (sliced and served steak like) over a mash of root veg and horseradish with tiny kidney skewers and he had venison (also sliced over a mash) (my memory is failing here, too much wine). both dishes came with roasted carrots, a revelation, and roasted potatoes and steamed broccoli. we went with a double header on sticky toffee, here served in a slice of a loaf with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. far more subtle than the night before...

highly recommend both if you are in the area.

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Gary and I will both agree on T'Star.

Few of the fshnchps places on the front at Whitby are bad. I think I must have eaten at most of them (which is why I'm so enoooormous), and even the lowliest knocks yer average pub f n c into the proverbial slightly tilted hat. The magpie isn't soo much better than the others that it's usually worth the wait.

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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friends recommend 'trenchers' near the station in whitby, not as picturesque as the magpie but fish n chips are apparently v good, it has just been bought by the company that own the crab and lobster and it is now open all year round. It would be good to have a decent alternative to the magpie.

i never go unless out of season and am still baffled by the queues outside the magpie in all weathers! Such is the power of continual rick stein recommendations. Their fish and chips are fine but not worth a long wait imho.

Also if you are a driving fan, the road from pickering to whitby is particularly good for a blast, lots of car magazines use it for testing and photo's.

Glad to hear you enjoyed the star i nearly always have a risotto there and the black pudding/foie is one of andrews signature dishes (oh, how i hate that term) it's always on.

cheers

gary

you don't win friends with salad

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Dear Mr. Marshall:

I was wondering if you could tell me about how far it is from your neck of the woods to a place called Hutton Rudby?

I am most likely traveling to the UK in June and would like to do some family tree research there. Seems the 5th GGrndFather and family sailed from Scarsborough, April 1774.

Any suggestions for eats and sleeps? Aside from the Star that is *wink*.

Kind regard,

Paula Jonvik

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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Dear Mr. Marshall:

I was wondering if you could tell me about how far it is from your neck of the woods to a place called Hutton Rudby?

I am most likely traveling to the UK in June and would like to do some family tree research there. Seems the 5th GGrndFather and family sailed from Scarsborough, April 1774.

Any suggestions for eats and sleeps? Aside from the Star that is *wink*.

Kind regard,

Paula Jonvik

i've never heard of it paula, let me go and check a map!

cheers

gary

you don't win friends with salad

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having checked a map i can see why i've not heard of it!

it's more north east from where i am (east of york) near middlesborough. You are though near a main road (A1) that will quickly get you to the star!

i haven't personally tried many other places in that region but there are several long established places that i'm sure would be good, i'll find you the names.

a nice place to stay is helmsley which is a market town with some character accomodation, 2 miles from the star .

cheers

gary

you don't win friends with salad

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*LAUGHING HARD*

...Neither had I! Until I unearthed the old Bible pages in my dearly departed fathers papers!

I sure appreciate your assistance though, as Yorkshire is not one of the places I have been to ....yet :)

Cheers,

Paula

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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*STILL LAUGHING HARD*

Although, I'm certain that I can be found at 43 Upper Brook Street, London, at some point in my visit... :laugh:

Cheers,

Paula

Edited by Paula Jonvik (log)

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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ok

i haven't tried some of these places but most are establised / recommended by trusted sources.

further north.... seaham hall nr durham

off the A1... black bull at moulton

staddlebridge....mccoys at the tontine

east witton.... blue lion

ramsgill in nidderdale....yorke arms

asenby....crab and lobster

harome...star inn

and to see how le gavroche should do it :wink: winteringham fields, winteringham (just over the humber bridge).

and if you want to leave the countryside in leeds there is of course anthonys and number 3 york place.

cheers

gary

you don't win friends with salad

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and to see how le gavroche should do it  :wink:

cheers

gary

Thanks Mr. Marshall!

I seem to remember Chef Michel Bourdin, formerly of The Connaught, telling me the same thing as he was handing me a box of freshly baked croissants... knowing I was heading over to Gavroche... :laugh: Got to appreciate the professional cajoling that goes on between these top properties!

I'll have to give one or more of the places you have listed a go... The Star- A MUST!

I appreciate your assistance!

Cheers,

Paula

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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and to see how le gavroche should do it  :wink:

cheers

gary

Thanks Mr. Marshall!

I seem to remember Chef Michel Bourdin, formerly of The Connaught, telling me the same thing as he was handing me a box of freshly baked croissants... knowing I was heading over to Gavroche... :laugh: Got to appreciate the professional cajoling that goes on between these top properties!

I'll have to give one or more of the places you have listed a go... The Star- A MUST!

I appreciate your assistance!

Cheers,

Paula

Hi Paula

I know quite a few people who have been to Seaham Hall to stay/eat and the general impression seems to be that it is pretty overrated and not worth the cost - never been myself but they are all friends whose recommendations I would trust.

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Thanks Beaker!

NO SEAHAM HALL! Roger that! ;)

Kind Regards,

Paula

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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another nice place to stay is Dunsley Hall, just a couple of miles outside of whitby, in a tiny hamlet, stayed there last summer for a couple of nights, food was very good for a 1 rosette property, even came home with a couple of idea's for our hotel.

Only downside, peacock's wanting to mate at 3am, not funny!

Regards

JOHNNY

cooking is my passion
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The Endeavour in Staithes is wonderful. Very difficult to get in as it's only about three rooms, but glorious cooking, and one of the most beautiful places in Britain.

Oh and PIckering's very nice, especially the WHite Swan, possibly the best Hermitage collection in the UK (outside the most posh-est restaurants at least), great fish pie, lovely breakfasts, roaring fires.

Oh, you've just made me want to book!

(but we're probably too far south for where you want to be)

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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Thanks for all of these great suggestions... I appreciate them very much!

eGullet is superior to any travel publication! ;)

Paula

"...It is said that without the culinary arts, the crudeness of reality would be unbearable..." Leopold

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  • 2 weeks later...
ok

i haven't tried some of these places but most are establised / recommended by trusted sources.

east witton.... blue lion

cheers

gary

Just to second Gary's suggestion for The Blue Lion. My friends, family and I have travelled each February/March for the last 5 years or so from the U.S. to stay and eat there. This year was the first one we've missed (damned currency!) and we're NOT happy. Every meal at The Blue Lion is a winner.
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