Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Triple Cooked Chips


culinary bear

Recommended Posts

Who first replaced the oil with water for the first cooking?

My belief is that it is old technique for avoiding miscolouring and also to enable freezing of the chips. The cooking time in water is normally very short but chips are usually thinner than Heston’s version, which obviously requires longer cooking time.

As for the two oil baths, I seem to remember that Hervé This has explained why it is used. The purpose of the first at 130 C is to heat the chips a little and the second is to actually cook them. If you drop cold chips in oil at 190 C, the temperature of the oil will quickly decrease to a level at which the chips will not be cooked.

When my glass is full, I empty it; when it is empty, I fill it.

Gastroville - the blog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you drop cold chips in oil at 190 C, the temperature of the oil will quickly decrease to a level at which the chips will not be cooked.

That truth of that statement depends on two major factors :

1) The mass of the chips you drop into the oil.

2) The mass of the oil into which you drop the chips.

If you put a lot of cold chips into enough oil at 190C to just cover them, then yes, the temperature of the oil will drop alarmingly.

If you put a modest amount of cold chips into a professional deep fryer (capacity 20 litres), for instance, then it's better able to withstand the chilling effect of the chips, and doesn't lose much heat at all.

It's the same principle we use when blanching green beans - a huge cauldron of very salty water on the strongest stockpot burner we have, and the beans blanched a handful at a time; the water, ideally, shouldn't come off the boil.

Allan Brown

"If you're a chef on a salary, there's usually a very good reason. Never, ever, work out your hourly rate."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you drop cold chips in oil at 190 C, the temperature of the oil will quickly decrease to a level at which the chips will not be cooked.

That truth of that statement depends on two major factors :

1) The mass of the chips you drop into the oil.

2) The mass of the oil into which you drop the chips.

If you put a lot of cold chips into enough oil at 190C to just cover them, then yes, the temperature of the oil will drop alarmingly.

If you put a modest amount of cold chips into a professional deep fryer (capacity 20 litres), for instance, then it's better able to withstand the chilling effect of the chips, and doesn't lose much heat at all.

It's the same principle we use when blanching green beans - a huge cauldron of very salty water on the strongest stockpot burner we have, and the beans blanched a handful at a time; the water, ideally, shouldn't come off the boil.

Obviously. It would also - which is also quite obvious - depend on exactly how cold the chips are.

I was just reporting Hervé This' explaination for the use of double cooking. More interesting perhaps is that indirectly from his statement it would follow that the double oil bath cooking is useless, at least for normally thin chips or pre-cooked chips that are not very cold.

When my glass is full, I empty it; when it is empty, I fill it.

Gastroville - the blog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read in the Tough Cookies book about the triple cooked chips and you no doubt get the impression in that book that the triple cooking is Heston’s discovery. It is not. It is a very old practice. Heston’s more recent use of modern technology to reduce the humidity in the potatoes may be his contribution though, although the need for it may be superfluous in practice with the selection of the best potato variety and considering the relatively little need for keeping the chips crispy indefinitely.

How old, exactly?

Can any one tell me whether pommes souffle is triple cooked in the reportoire surely this would be one of the earliest as the Herrings has taken a lot of refrences from here and seems to be very similar to triple cooked chips!

Edited by PassionateChefsDie (log)
Perfection cant be reached, but it can be strived for!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at Loiseau's Trucs de cuisinier (Hachette, 1996): he says that frites should be washed and dried before being fried. "To obtain perfect frites, cook them twice: once with the oil at 130C so that they are cooked but not browned, and a second time at 200C so that they are crisp." (my translation).

Jonathan Day

"La cuisine, c'est quand les choses ont le go�t de ce qu'elles sont."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have found Thur experimentation that the best way to achieve the quintessential "Chips" or "French Fries" in high volume consistently to achieve the finished product that's most acceptable to the person eating the Fries.

Wearing my Hat's thru the years as a Chef, Operator, Customer and Consultant. I even had a employee work at "Nathan's" in "Coney Island" to learn how they prepared their fried potato's for a client. They used random Crinkle Cut Potatoes serving as many as 4000 pounds on a busy summer Saturday during the 1970's.

That was not a type of Fried Potato acceptable everywhere, but unique to Nathans and somewhat additive to it's patrons.

We found that the best method of preparing "Chips" wasn't as effective starting in the late 90's and continuing to the present. The cause has been universal with domestic Potatoes, especially from Idaho, Washington and Oregon large production farmers. Thru excess irrigation they have been able to grow larger better appearing but neutral tasting crops of potato's. In Washington it's become almost impossible to buy anywhere a "Russet" potato with the character and taste anticipated from Potatoes.

I feel that this is whats caused the popularity of enhanced types of Mashed Potatoes served at most Restaurants adding Garlic, Cheese or whatever. It's also caused the "Potato Chip" Manufacturers to add more flavorings to cover the lack of taste in plain Potato Chips. Look in any Super Market there will be more varieties of Potato Chips then seen sensible.

Commercial Potato Chip Manufactures take every precaution to be sure that the Potatoes they Fry are consistent monitoring the Starch, Sugar, Brix, Size and only using the potato's when they meet their criteria.

Part of this over irrigated Potato situation has been the successful evolution of the "Pringle Type" products since it's possible to formulate a better tasting potato product using chemical enhancement, various flavors, mush and advertising to hook and reel in the public.

I have had customers in the Washington area order Maine Russet Potatoes or seek out smaller farmers that don't have access to irrigation to serve Potato Tasting Potatoes. They have awesome customer response enjoying a tradition Potato taste.

Returning to the original topic of the thread I will share with fellow eGulleters the results of our experimentation of how to make the best tasting "Chips" or "French Fries". Making your Chips this way will achieve the effect attempted by all the other methods consistently, needing nothing more then 2 pans with oil with baskets, fry to hold the Chips and Frying Thermometer plus a little paying attention during the frying process. This works for a home serving or high volumes in Restaurants.

Ingredients:

[1]Potatoes

[2]High Quality Vegetable Oil, Suet or Lard

[3]2 Pots able to hold enough oil to completely cover the Chips but still have height enough on the sides to have room for expansion of the oil after immersing potatoes and allow room for the bubbling of the hot oil combined with the moisture from the potatoes.

[4]Fine Mesh Stainer to keep cleaning burnt residue from Fry Pots.

[5]2 Frying Thermometers to keep attached to the Pots to maintain and adjust temperatures required.

[6]Any type of Anti-Oxidant to keep Potatoes White before frying.

[7]Containers to Keep Potatoes immersed in Water under Refrigeration the turned upside down to drain of the water before frying potatoes. Colander to bring Potato's to Fryer before immersing into Oil.

[8] Flat Pan that can be used to place the Potatoes after Frying, prior to serving. Some like to use paper towels on bottom of pan to absorb some of the oil.

[9] Condiments for seasoning Potatoes of your preferences.

Method of Preparation:

[1] After preparing the Potatoes your way for frying. Wash Potatoes then slice, wash again then place into enough Cold Water with Anti-Oxidant to cover Potatoes and refrigerate after covering containers. [Allow minimum of 2 hours under refrigeration before frying or as long as several days]

[2] Take you 2 Pots/Baskets and fill with the Oil of your preference placing side by side on your stove. If your stove has different sized burners keep in mind that the Pot with the smalled Burner will require more attention to recover Temperatures while frying. Since you will be using 2 Pots one will be set to maintain 350 degrees Fahrenheit this Pot should be placed on the larger burner as it will need more surface heat to sustain the temperature from the first frying of the Cold Refrigerated Potatoes.

[3] Make sure to have a area set up for the draining of the cold potatoes before frying. Colander ready to bring the drained Potatoes to the Fryer.

[4] Heat up both oil Pots to different Temperatures of 350 degrees Fahrenheit and 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Do this by Medium Heat this will warm oil gradually, plus allow enough extra heat as required to sustain the temperatures -while not scalding the oil.

[5] While Oil is slowly heating it's time to bring out the Potatoes and Drain throughly. Wait to drain until the temperature of the Oil in Fryers has gotten to the correct temperature, then drain immediately place in Colander and get ready to put Potatoes into 350 degree Oil. It may be better to do this carefully with tongs by removing the Basket from the Oil and placing the Potatoes into the Basket, then the Basket into the Oil {CAREFULLY} allowing for splattering.

[6] This is probably the most important part of making your Chips. Watch the Potatoes, giving the Basket a Occasional Shake. You will notice that there will soon be Steam coming out of the hot oil. Make sure to watch the temperature adjusting heat as required. As it Fry's the amount of Steam will keep reducing until it finally stops coming out from the Potatoes.

[7] After the Steam has Stopped, watch the Chips they will begin to Brown. Allow to Brown until close to the Color you prefer. Remove from Fryer and allow to Drain off Oil, Shake Potatoes and Switch Baskets from the 375 Degree Pot into the 350 Degree Pot, placing the Drained Basket Carefully into the 375 degree Pot.

[7A] At that time you may want to begin your second batch of Potatoes in the 350 degree pot [Carefully] keeping you eye to adjust temperatures.

[7B] The Potatoes in the 375 degree Pot will cook quickly into the exact finish you prefer, when the look ready remove from oil, allowing to drain and empty into you Draining Pan, let stand for 45/60 seconds shake and serve.

[7C] After removing each batch of Potatoes give a quick check to the oil and if there is any sediment use your strainer to strain out to clarify your oil in the fryer without burning.

[8] Be ready to serve seconds and enjoy.

[9] Please report your results if you try this method on eGullet, since curious eaters want to know. Even I'm interested on your results with different types of potatoes. This works with thinly sliced potato chips as well, I recommend allowing to cool with a fan if your making thin chips as they will keep much better at room temperature until being served by that method.

Since writing recipes is something I'm not accustomed to doing except for professionals please message me if I was not clear enough in explaining or if you have any questions. I certainly hope that you will enjoy your results

Irwin :wink::wub:

I don't say that I do. But don't let it get around that I don't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I have found Thur experimentation that the best way to achieve the quintessential "Chips" or "French Fries" in high volume consistently to achieve the finished product that's most acceptable to the person eating the Fries.

Wearing my Hat's thru the years as a Chef, Operator, Customer and Consultant. I even had a employee work at "Nathan's" in "Coney Island" to learn how they prepared their fried potato's for a client.  They used random Crinkle Cut Potatoes serving as many as 4000 pounds on a busy summer Saturday during the 1970's.

That was not a type of Fried Potato acceptable everywhere, but unique to Nathans and somewhat additive to it's patrons.

We found that the best method of preparing "Chips" wasn't as effective starting in the late 90's and continuing to the present. The cause has been universal with domestic Potatoes, especially from Idaho, Washington and Oregon large production farmers.  Thru excess irrigation they have been able to grow larger better appearing but neutral tasting crops of potato's. In Washington it's become almost impossible to buy anywhere a "Russet" potato with the character and taste anticipated from Potatoes.

I feel that this is whats caused the popularity of enhanced types of Mashed Potatoes served at most Restaurants adding Garlic, Cheese or whatever. It's also caused the "Potato Chip" Manufacturers to add more flavorings to cover the lack of taste in plain Potato Chips. Look in any Super Market there will be more varieties of Potato Chips then seen sensible.

Commercial Potato Chip Manufactures take every precaution to be sure that the Potatoes they Fry are consistent monitoring the Starch, Sugar, Brix, Size and only using the potato's when they meet their criteria.

Part of this over irrigated Potato situation has been the successful evolution of the "Pringle Type" products since it's possible to formulate a better tasting potato product using chemical enhancement, various flavors, mush and advertising to hook and reel in the public.

I have had customers in the Washington area order Maine Russet Potatoes or seek out smaller farmers that don't have access to irrigation to serve Potato Tasting Potatoes. They have awesome customer response enjoying a tradition Potato taste.

Returning to the original topic of the thread I will share with fellow eGulleters the results of our experimentation of how to make the best tasting "Chips" or "French Fries". Making your Chips this way will achieve the effect attempted by all the other methods consistently, needing nothing more then 2 pans with oil with baskets, fry to hold the Chips and Frying Thermometer plus a little paying attention during the frying process. This works for a home serving or high volumes in Restaurants.

Ingredients:

[1]Potatoes

[2]High Quality Vegetable Oil, Suet or Lard

[3]2 Pots able to hold enough oil to completely  cover the Chips but still have height enough on the sides to have room for expansion of the oil after immersing potatoes  and allow room for the bubbling of the hot oil combined with the moisture from the potatoes.

[4]Fine Mesh Stainer to keep cleaning burnt residue from Fry Pots.

[5]2 Frying Thermometers to keep attached to the Pots to maintain and adjust temperatures required.

[6]Any type of Anti-Oxidant to keep Potatoes White before frying.

[7]Containers to Keep Potatoes immersed in Water under Refrigeration the turned upside down to drain of the water before frying potatoes. Colander to bring Potato's to Fryer before immersing into Oil.

[8] Flat Pan that can be used to place the Potatoes after Frying, prior to serving. Some like to use paper towels on bottom of pan to absorb some of the oil.

[9] Condiments for seasoning Potatoes of your preferences.

Method of Preparation:

[1] After preparing the Potatoes your way for frying. Wash  Potatoes then slice, wash again then  place into enough Cold Water with Anti-Oxidant to cover Potatoes and refrigerate after covering containers. [Allow minimum of 2 hours under refrigeration before frying or as long as several days]

[2] Take you 2 Pots/Baskets and fill with the Oil of your preference placing side by side on your stove. If your stove has different sized burners keep in mind that the Pot with the smalled Burner will require more attention to recover Temperatures while frying. Since you will be using 2 Pots one will be set to maintain 350 degrees Fahrenheit this Pot should be placed on the larger burner as it will need more surface heat to sustain the temperature from the first frying of the Cold Refrigerated Potatoes.

[3] Make sure to have a area set up for the draining of the cold potatoes before frying. Colander ready to bring the drained Potatoes to the Fryer.

[4] Heat up both oil Pots to different Temperatures of 350 degrees Fahrenheit and 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Do this by Medium Heat this will warm oil gradually, plus allow enough extra heat as required to sustain the temperatures -while not scalding the oil.

[5] While Oil is slowly heating it's time to bring out the Potatoes and Drain throughly. Wait to drain until the temperature of the Oil in Fryers has gotten to the correct temperature, then drain immediately place in Colander and get ready to put Potatoes into 350 degree Oil. It may be better to do this carefully with tongs by removing the Basket from the Oil and placing the Potatoes into the Basket, then the Basket into the Oil {CAREFULLY} allowing for splattering.

[6] This is probably the most important part of making your Chips. Watch the Potatoes, giving the Basket a Occasional Shake. You will notice that there will soon be Steam coming out of the hot oil. Make sure to watch the temperature adjusting heat as required. As it Fry's the amount of Steam will keep reducing until it finally stops coming out from the Potatoes.

[7] After the Steam has Stopped, watch the Chips they will begin to Brown. Allow to Brown until close to the Color you prefer. Remove from Fryer and allow to Drain off Oil, Shake Potatoes and Switch Baskets from the 375 Degree Pot into the 350 Degree Pot, placing the Drained Basket Carefully into the 375 degree Pot.

[7A] At that time you may want to begin your second batch of Potatoes in the 350 degree pot [Carefully] keeping you eye to adjust temperatures.

[7B] The Potatoes in the 375 degree Pot will cook quickly into the exact finish you prefer, when the look ready remove from oil, allowing to drain and empty into you Draining Pan, let stand for 45/60 seconds shake and serve.

[7C] After removing each batch of Potatoes give a quick check to the oil and if there is any sediment use your strainer to strain out to clarify your oil in the fryer without burning.

[8] Be ready to serve seconds and enjoy.

[9] Please report your results if you try this method on eGullet, since curious eaters want to know. Even I'm interested on your results with different types of potatoes. This works with thinly sliced potato chips as well, I recommend allowing to cool with a fan if your making thin chips as they will keep much better at room temperature until being served by that method.

Since writing recipes is something I'm not accustomed to doing except for professionals please message me if I was not clear enough in explaining or if you have any questions. I certainly hope that you will enjoy your results

Irwin :wink:  :wub:

PLEASE "TRY" NORTHWEST BAGGED POTATOES" BEFORE TRYING TO FRY.

The recipe that I have posted has always made much better then average "Chips" or "French Fries" consistently almost under every adverse condition. In fact it used in several hundred Restaurants famous for their Fries all over the World.

Yesterday I was surprised after buying a 10 pound bag of Washington State Supermarket Russet Potatoes on Sale. I prepared about 4 pounds of Potatoes for Deep Frying going through all the steps in the recipe and was amazed that the Potatoes were so loaded with water that they actually seemed to fall apart into mush during the frying process, being basically not edible as "Fried Potatoes".

Tried making some for mashed potatoes, again watery and tasteless, even tried some for Potato Salad but wound up like a mashed potato salad, {YUCK"}

Has anyone else had this happen ?

Today stopped at a Restaurant that uses my recipe for as many as 3000 serving daily on weekends and requested that he give me some potatoes to experiment with at home. He buys his Potatoes in Large Burlap Bags where they are generally simply ordered as "SPUDS" from a away from the Irrigation Farmer at my recommendation and they tasted and fried like Potatoes.

If anyone else intends making "Fried Potatoes" it may be prudent to try making a sample amount of the Potatoes before trying to cook a batch. This may be applicable to Idaho, Oregon and Washington Russets from the Factory Farms.

Irwin

I don't say that I do. But don't let it get around that I don't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
I have always taken it for granted and I have seen it mentioned in books.

You will, of course, forgive me for pressing you on this.

Which books?

I stumbled across this thread again by accident and it seems I forgot to give book references as requested by the Bear. For instance, Robuchon outlines the triple cooking on page 162 in his book Cuisines Des Quatres Saisons. According to this recipe the cut potatoes are first cooked in water for 1 to 2 minutes and let to cool, then at 160 C and finally at 180 C. It is in line with how Robuchon has demonstrated making fries on French television.

When my glass is full, I empty it; when it is empty, I fill it.

Gastroville - the blog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...