Digest: Colorado Food-Media Round-Up

[ChefDanBrown]

This thread will contain brief weekly digests of Colorado food media new items: restaurant reviews and other food related articles. They will be in chronological order, with the most recent appearing last. If you find a news item interesting and want to discuss it, please start a separate discussion topic.

Here are links to the food sections of major Colorado media. I probably missed something (or someone) who is vital to the scene, so please contact me and I’ll be happy to add more. A couple of key publications in the Denver area don’t post complete reviews on the internet. I’ll do a DIGEST entry for these publications, but they won’t have links.

Westword dining section link is here including that all important weekly column by Jason Sheehan.

Denver Post link is here, the dining section changes web addresses each week, so you have to follow the links from the cover page to get to each week’s dining section.

Rocky Mountain News dining section link is here and reviews by John Lehndorff.

5280 link is here. The site previews what is in each article, and offers a few short reviews each month.

Edited April 12, 2005 by ChefDanBrown (log)

[ChefDanBrown]

Frasca Review in the Westword,

This week…in the Westword Jason Sheehan reviews Boulder’s newest top restaurant “Frasca,” owned and operated by chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey. He goes over the history of the team, and their meeting at the French Laundry.

Dever Post article on female Chefs

The Denver Post has an article praising and discussing the triumphs and difficulties of female chefs, both in the Denver area (there are a number of highly visible chef/owners), as well as in current cultural context. The article discusses the likes of Julia, Marcella, Lidia, and Alice, and then goes on the mention locals Anderson, Woolcott, Jasinski, and Rippeto to name a few. The article focuses on a interviews with a few chef/owners and gives a good overview of a few different individuals and situations in the Denver culinary scene.

Rocky Mountain News review of Frasca.

I guess there might not have been room for regular diners at Frasca last week, everyone was making the rounds. John Lehndorff made his rounds as well, and was equally impressed. His article focuses more on the specifics of what he was served; in particular he liked the desserts of pastry Chef Brendan Sodikoff. He lists a number of excellent seasonal items, as well as praising the execution of the food and the service given. His 11 year old son went with him to dinner, and enjoyed it, so I’m thinking that’s a family friendly vote, and THAT is very unusual in fine dining in any city.

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

Edited April 13, 2005 by ChefDanBrown (log)

[ChefDanBrown]

Westword review of Kim Ba

Mr. Sheehan goes on a late night crab eating binge after dining at one of Denver's Vietnamese restaurants. He rates the restrauant as being pretty good, but the article's really about a take-out crab gorge-fest.

The Denver Post discusses Udi Baron's sandwich shops

An overview on Udi's deli and the future prospects for his business. Also features a discussion on the breads of Maurizio Negrini. Udi has been producing some of the best breads in Denver for many of the best reestaurants in Denver. If you haven't been there, or tried his breads, don't complain about not being able to find good bread in Denver! (That's my opinion, not the Posts'!)

Kyle Wagner's Denver Post Review of "Fiesta's"

Vail's family friendly Southwestern restaurant earns 2.5 stars. She felt the service was lacking and the food was middle of the road. She felt the value was great though, but I'm not sure that makes it worth the trip up I-70.

John Lendorff's gives a B+ to Deluxe

While taking a jab at a previos article by Sheehan, Lendorff really enjoyed his visits to Deluxe. The well executed California-Fusion restaurant seems to be going strong, with a number of very good reviews. As is his style, he delves into the details of quite a few dishes eaten over the course of his visits, including his satisfaction with the seafood selection and preparation.

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

[ChefDanBrown]

Westword's review of Hookah Bar

Another literary diversion on the road to gastronomic enlightenment from Mr.Sheehan. He likes the food and atmosphere of this Lebanase restaurant, and don't let the name fool you, it's not east Colfax.

Denver Post review of the 9th Door on Blake

Kyle Wagner enjoyed the food and atmosphere of this new Denver eatery. She's not exasperated with the opening of another Tapas effort, and is pleased with the food, atmosphere, and mostly happy with the service.

Raquelitas tortillas

As 5-5-5 approaches, Denver will be nuts. this interesting article on local tortillas, written by Ellen Sweets features definitions of tortillas and an array of uses, as well as a little company history.

Min Yee Lin article by John Lendorff

John takes the Tapas issue head on in this one, then gracefully avoids the bull with a sweep of his cape by pointing at Dim Sum. This article has a number of positive things to say about the restaurant, including the fact the the menu is tri-lingual (English, Vietnamese, Spanish).

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

[ChefDanBrown]

Westword's review of Frisco's Deli and Market

This one is worth reading. The concept is intriguing, and it sounds like they're getting off on the right foot, slowly. Friscos doesn't have a menu, and if you come in they'll make anything you want. They're putting faith into their Chefs and cooks, and doing a pretty good job of execution as far as Sheehan's concerned.

Denver Post review of Ocotillo

I have to agree with Kyle Wagner, Denver doen't have nearly enough true southwestern restaurants, and she liked this one. They're approaching spicy food with a new concept, letting the diner give a number (1-10) for how hot they'd like their dishes made. She liked the food, atmosphere and prices. Once again, the destination isn't downtown Denver, but it sounds like it might be worth the trip.

Rocky Mountain News' scathing review of Brittany Hill

Well, if you want a beautiful view through dirty glass, accompanied by less than high quality food, and absent-minded service, this could be your dream dining destination. I've been hearing bad things about Brittany Hill for a number of years, but seeing it in print is another story. Youch!

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

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Edited May 4, 2005 by ChefDanBrown (log)

[ChefDanBrown]

I won't be able to continue to write this digest as my new position demands a great deal of my time. I've become employed as Chef de Cuisine at The Fourth Story Restaurant at the Tattered Cover book store in Cherry Creek, under Executive Chef Tim Opiel. In the last two weeks I've written and executed a new spring/early summer menu, including all prep recipes, and we're changing the dessert menu tomorrow (I am the pastry chef as well).

Today is the first day off I've truly had since the last day of last month, and the job beat out the column. I feel that this restaurant will provide the opportunity I have been seeking to truly make a name for myself with excellence, and my belief in this opportunity has driven me to relentlessly pursue it.

Thanks to those of you in particular who thanked me for writing the digest, and I apologize that I will be unable to continue.

eGullet is seeking someone to take over this column, please contact Richard Kilgore if you are interested in doing so.