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St. Honoré Daughters


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Starred chefs's daughters seem attracted to the Place du Marché St. Honoré. 1st there was Michel Rostang's daughter at L'Absinthe, then Jean Bardet's daughter at Point Bar. I don't intend to slam Absinthe...it was not awful, in fact I liked the way the wine list is arranged and there is a no-smoking area, but I think that the gene pool may be a little deeper Chez Bardet. We tried going to the Point Bar last year right after it opened but a plumbing problem flooded it requiring some re-renovation and we just got back for lunch today, and it was packed with people waiting at the tiny bar. The decor is modern, but not over the top. You can get a plat & dessert du jour which comes with either a glass of wine or a demi-pression for €20. Pat went with the special and today it was sautéed gambas with tagliatelle, and a fresh pineapple tart with VANILLE ice cream. She proclaimed the shrimp good, but would have preferred a tad more sauce for the pasta. The dessert was the type of simple thing that when carefully done can be a delight...it was. I had an entrée of velouté of Fourme d'Ambert laced with finely chopped chives and bacon bits. This went well with the basket of toasted Poujauron bread. My main was poitrine de cochon simmered until it was fork tender and served over outstanding pomme purée. No lean cuisine here...my guess is about 1/3 potatoes, 1/3 butter, and 1/3 cream. To cleanse my coronaries I used a demi-bouteille of Pouilly Fumé. Coffee is "offerte" and you get to choose from about 4. Our total, including a demi of San Pellegrino was €73.50. This is not a place to cross multiple arrondissements for, but if you are in the area you can do much worse. It appeared from today's lunch that reservations are necessary.

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I don't intend to slam Absinthe...it was not awful, in fact I liked the way the wine list is arranged and there is a no-smoking area, but I think that the gene pool may be a little deeper Chez Bardet.

I'm delighted by your take on both; I was harder on l'Absinthe than you, maybe because I so loved what she did at the Bistrot Cote Mer and felt jilted and disappointed when I revisited it recently. I'm more enthusiastic about Point Bar too than others, although if the truth be known, it's been a while since I was there last, that's a tell-tale sign for me.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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Our total, including a demi of San Pellegrino was €73.50. This is not a place to cross multiple arrondissements for, but if you are in the area you can do much worse. It appeared from today's lunch that reservations are necessary.

€73.50 with one lunch menu and you getting two courses + dessert and wine sounds like a real bargain!

Now the veloute de fourme d'ambert really interests me. Can you tell me what you felt it was based on, potatoes?

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Our total, including a demi of San Pellegrino was €73.50. This is not a place to cross multiple arrondissements for, but if you are in the area you can do much worse. It appeared from today's lunch that reservations are necessary.

€73.50 with one lunch menu and you getting two courses + dessert and wine sounds like a real bargain!

Now the veloute de fourme d'ambert really interests me. Can you tell me what you felt it was based on, potatoes?

You probably surmised from my guess about the purée that deconstruction is not my strong suit, but I have no reason to believe that the velouté Fourme d'Ambert contained much but heavy cream and the name sake cheese...it was rich in flavor of the cheese and velvety smooth, but I got no hint of potatoe, sorry.

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