Rasam

[FaustianBargain]

A request from the France forum for the kandathippili(poivre long/long pepper) rasam.

This is what I have in my books. Any other version?

recipe:

for four cups,

black pepper 1/2 tsp

red chillies 4

coriander seeds 2 tsp

bengal dhal gram 1 tsp

5-6 kandathippili(poivre long)

5-6 arisithippilli

cumin seeds 3/4 tsp

curry leaves -few

a lime sized ball of tamarind

a few pinched curry leaves+11/2 tsp salt

1 tsp ghee

1tsp black mustard

2red chillies

method:

1.soak tamarind in hot water.

2.fry the pepper, chillies, coriander, dhal, thippilis in a tsp of oil until golden brown.

3.let cool and grind to a paste.

4.seperately, grind the cumin seeds and curry leaves together.(no need to fry this one.)

5.extract juice from the soaked tamarind. squeeze and then strain the pulp from the juice. discard pulp.

6.add to the tamarind water, the ground paste(from #2) made from the fried ingredients and the salted pinched curry leaves. Boil until the 'raw tamarind' smell goes away.

7.finally, add the cumin/curry leaves paste.(#4).

8.continue boiling until the liquid boils and froths over.

9.for seasoning, melt 1 tsp of ghee(or clarified butter) and add the mustard seeds until it sputters. tear the red chillies so the seeds fall into the hot fat when you add it. empty this into the rasam.

optionally, 1/2 cup of cooked, mashed toor dhal can be added provided there is no garlic involved. But I dont like it as the broth like quality is lost.

Kandathippili is more famously used in 'diwali marunthu'. Translated that means diwali medicine that most south indians adore. It is an acquired taste. It is a bunch of stuff ground to a fine paste with ghee. It used to be made at home by our grandparents and then distributed. The idea is that a little ball of this 'diwali marunthu' heals ailing tummies of indigestion after a particularly gluttonous diwali feast. Although, traditionally, it is made only once a year, I have known instances where people gulp down little balls like snacks. Like I said, it is an acquired taste. When you acquire it, you are stuck with it for life. A commerical, slightly altered version of it can be found in most Indian grocery stores abroad as 'dabur chawanprash'(someone please correct me if i got the wrong spelling) which isnt exactly the same(it has gooseberries and other assorted goodness), but it does well during cold turkey.

I remember this rasam making only rare appearances but I do have memories of a slightly altered version of this rasam* mixed with mashed rice and loads of ghee as the sunday afternoon meal. Every sunday, my grandmother would line us, The Cousins, and we'd get a oil massage for the scalp and body. We'd sit glistening for an hour or so. At this time, into our mouths was shoved a tablespoon of castor oil. Yes, this is all true. It was done with the best of intentions. After the ritual oil bath aka head bath and we are cleansed in every sense of the world, we'd be starving. I mean..a gnawing hunger from the pit of your very being. A meal of rasam rice later, we'd sleep like corpses. We'll be good as new to tackle the next week.

*the other version of this, cumin-pepper rasam, omits the poivre long and has more of the black pepper. it is not as aromatic. and often it was prepared to clear a phelgm congested chest. inside my head, i'd imagine that the 'sharp' pepper will cut through the coagulation that is the chest goo and the soothing cumin will follow..making it all ok.

Edited March 19, 2005 by FaustianBargain (log)

[Ptipois]

Thanks a lot! But I have questions.

What is arisithippilli?

A few lines down, there are "salted pinched curry leaves" which do not appear above. What exactly does "salted pinched" mean in this case?

I think I'll omit the toor dal too, or try the variation another time. Is the requirement that there be no garlic based on medicinal reasons?

I'm all ears.

[ravum]

Your version is pretty much the same as ours.It was either made with toor dal or omitted the dal and added a whole head of garlic instead.It was served thin,as a cold remedy but I loved it even otherwise.

The garlic version is an acquired taste but is awesome.I had absolutely no idea that the french used kandathippili!!.

[FaustianBargain]

Thanks a lot! But I have questions.

What is arisithippilli?

A few lines down, there are "salted pinched curry leaves" which do not appear above. What exactly does "salted pinched" mean in this case?

I think I'll omit the toor dal too, or try the variation another time. Is the requirement that there be no garlic based on medicinal reasons?

I'm all ears. 

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Ptipois, i think one simply mixes the salt to torn curry leaves.(edited to add: apparently, the torn curry leaves are mixed with the salt. in the time these recipes were written, they didnt get salt in its fine powdered form. it was like rock salt/kosher salt. so salt had to be 'ground' and it was possible to assign precise measures for salt instead of 'taste, test and season more if required'.) this is from my mother's notes.(she jotted down instructions from a book. i am getting it) i am against measuring salt. it is better to adjust salt to taste. 'pinched curry leaves' is basically torn curry leaves. for some reason, it is better to tear the curry leaves instead of using them whole or making a chiffonade with the knife.

arisithippili is probably a smaller version of thippili because 'arisi' means rice in tamil. i think they are less pungent in flavour and smaller in size.

i went to buy some today and couldnt find any! i will ask mamma to send me some and i can take pictures.

the garlic version(as ravum mentioned) is lovely. in certain families, due to religious reasons, garlic is omitted. but in this case, i dont think garlic and toor dhal dont mix well. i dont think long pepper(remembering its aroma) will go well with garlic either. the garlic version of this rasam omits the thippili.(trivia: garlic and asafoetida dont mix well either. for some reason, they neutralise each other. you lose both the flavours! fascinating.)

Edited March 20, 2005 by FaustianBargain (log)

[Ptipois]

for some reason, it is better to tear the curry leaves instead of using them whole or making a chiffonade with the knife.

I have indeed noticed that tearing them develops their flavor. The same can be said of kaffir lime leaves and fresh bay leaves.

arisithippili is probably a smaller version of thippili because 'arisi' means rice in tamil. i think they are less pungent in flavour and smaller in size.

I think I have seen those smaller "thippili" at the Sri Lankan shops in La Chapelle, northern part of Paris. Larger thippili may be bought in a specialized spice shop in the Marais. So I may even be able to use both!

the garlic version(as ravum mentioned) is lovely. in certain families, due to religious reasons, garlic is omitted. but in this case, i dont think garlic and toor dhal dont mix well. i dont think long pepper(remembering its aroma) will go well with garlic either. the garlic version of this rasam omits the thippili.(trivia: garlic and asafoetida dont mix well either. for some reason, they neutralise each other. you lose both the flavours! fascinating.)

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So if I understand well, the garlic version has only black pepper and no thippili. Right?

I'll experiment with all versions because the recipe sounds awesome. Could you tell me how and when garlic is added? Boiled or fried (i.e. in final seasoning)?

I have also noticed that asafoetida and garlic seem to clash. Funny, when you think that their flavors have a lot in common. I've concluded that you don't need garlic in a recipe that involves asafetida anyway, and vice versa.

[FaustianBargain]

I have also noticed that asafoetida and garlic seem to clash. Funny, when you think that their flavors have a lot in common. I've concluded that you don't need garlic in a recipe that involves asafetida anyway, and vice versa.

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It is sometimes said that asafoetida was used to mimic the flavours of garlic and/or onion, both of which were taboo in certain religious communities.

Although, I have noticed that asafoetida goes well with onion.

For garlic rasam(there are many many ways to prepare garlic rasam though)

4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed

1 tsp cumin seeds

a lime sized knob of tamarind(prep: soak tamarind in hot/warm water. extract juice. discard pulp)

seasoning*:

torn curry leaves

black mustard seeds sputtered in a hot tsp of oil/ghee.**

In hot oil(1 tbsp), fry the garlic. add the cumin seeds. add the tamarind water.

boil until the raw smell of tamarind is cooked away. salt, to taste. add *seasoning.

**this ought to be done at the last minute. the idea is to dunk the hot mustard seeds into the rasam and let it sizzle. somehow, it is not the same if you let the seasoning cool before you add it.

[Ptipois]

I had absolutely no idea that the french used kandathippili!!.

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Piper longum is a recent rediscovery in France. During the medieval era, at times, it was more widely used than black pepper.

[bague25]

I have a funny anecdote concerning pipli.

I went to herboriste (a shop where you can buy herbs, spices, teas and infusions) here in Brussels. I was told they sell pipli.

I asked the young man serving me for some “poivre long” (long pepper) and he raised an eyebrow and said “oh pipli?”

As soon as I had my packet of 50 gms of pipli I opened the packet and popped a bit in my mouth (an old Indian habit, I’ve always seen mother do it – to test the freshness of spices). The young man when wide-eyed and open-mouthed and he shrieked what! You eat spices like that?? Husband explained, “she’s not crazy, only Indian”.

My fav use is in sauce au poivre vert instead of/or mixed with the poivre vert

Bague25

Ptipois votre blog est formidable! Félicitations.

Edited March 21, 2005 by bague25 (log)

[Ptipois]

Thank you very much!

And thanks FB for the garlic rasam recipe.

A chef friend of mine who has spent a lot of time in Asia uses long pepper in some of his recipes. One of his greatest hits (always on the menu) is slow-simmered suckling pig with "épices douces", i.e. cassia bark, star anise and long pepper, all whole. He binds the resulting juice with a bit of cream and serves with crunchy green cabbage. It is wonderful.

[FaustianBargain]

A chef friend of mine who has spent a lot of time in Asia uses long pepper in some of his recipes. One of his greatest hits (always on the menu) is slow-simmered suckling pig with "épices douces", i.e. cassia bark, star anise and long pepper, all whole. He binds the resulting juice with a bit of cream and serves with crunchy green cabbage. It is wonderful.

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I found a couple of recipes. It seems to have a great affinity for fish. Eels and 'porc du mer'. What would "porc du mer" be?

Are are any Indian recipes that uses poivre long with fish?

Edited March 22, 2005 by FaustianBargain (log)

[jw46]

What would "porc du mer" be?

have found several recipes for pork chops with scallops.. in French, not my primary language (Or even secondary), and the translator program makes quite a botch of the whole thing, as usual...

Hopefully of some help...

[Ptipois]

I found a couple of recipes. It seems to have a great affinity for fish. Eels and 'porc du mer'. What would "porc du mer" be?

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I have no idea... Never heard of it. Where did you find the reference?

[FaustianBargain]

I found a couple of recipes. It seems to have a great affinity for fish. Eels and 'porc du mer'. What would "porc du mer" be?

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I have no idea... Never heard of it. Where did you find the reference?

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recettes médiévales

PORC DE MER. Fendu au long par le dos, puis soit cuit en eaue, et puis taillié par lesches comme venoison, puis prenez du vin et de l'eaue de vostre poisson, et après affinez gingenbre, canelle, giroffle, grainne de paradiz, poivre long et ung peu de saffren, et faictes bon boullon claret; et ne soit mie trop jaune; et en sert l'en ainsi comme par manière d'un entremez avec ung blanc mengier.

[Ptipois]

PORC DE MER. Fendu au long par le dos, puis soit cuit en eaue, et puis taillié par lesches comme venoison, puis prenez du vin et de l'eaue de vostre poisson, et après affinez gingenbre, canelle, giroffle, grainne de paradiz, poivre long et ung peu de saffren, et faictes bon boullon claret; et ne soit mie trop jaune; et en sert l'en ainsi comme par manière d'un entremez avec ung blanc mengier.

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I think it was porpoise.

[FaustianBargain]

PORC DE MER. Fendu au long par le dos, puis soit cuit en eaue, et puis taillié par lesches comme venoison, puis prenez du vin et de l'eaue de vostre poisson, et après affinez gingenbre, canelle, giroffle, grainne de paradiz, poivre long et ung peu de saffren, et faictes bon boullon claret; et ne soit mie trop jaune; et en sert l'en ainsi comme par manière d'un entremez avec ung blanc mengier.

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I think it was porpoise.

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Thanks.

Seal, perhaps?

Grey Seal(Halichoerus grypus).

Adult males, and some older adult females to a lesser extent, have a recognisable long "Roman" nose with wide nostrils, giving the species its name "horsehead" in Canada and its Latin name that translates as "hooked-nose pig of the sea".

altho'

"La Cochina" means little pig of the sea for the people living along the beautiful Sea of Cortez, or Gulf of California, Mexico. The little "pig" is the critically endangered vaquita porpoise endemic to a mere 30 mile radius in the upper Gulf.

porpoise..seal..doesnt matter..still interesting.