Balsamic Vinegar/Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale

[Adam Balic]

Sweet eh? So have the started Sapa/Saba in USA supermarkets yet?

[slkinsey]

You can get Saba in NYC supermarkets. I don't know about middle America, though.

[ratgirlny]

Bad balsamic vinegar has been a staple of deli salad bars in Manhattan since at least

the mid-80's. That is when I first saw it.

[scase805]

Not to get off track on this topic, but we do carry Saba at DiBruno Bros. in Philadelphia as well.

[MarketStEl]

Wow. Great thread. Thanks for all the response.

MarketStEl, re: your quote below: have they been making balsamic since 1912? Or just in business? Can you maneion the name of the producer? Or PM me?

One of the leading Italian manufacturers of industrial-grade balsamic vinegar has been in business since 1912, which suggests to me that there must have been some upsurge in demand for or knowledge of a product somewhat resembling true balsamic vinegar in Italy around the turn of the last century.

←

Oh, it's not a secret--it's probably the most widely distributed Italian brand of industrial balsamic vinegar in the United States:

Monari Federzoni

And yes, they have been producing balsamic since 1912. What is less clear, however, from looking at the company history, is whether they have been producing industrial balsamic for all this time. If I understand the timeline on the history page correctly, they have been producing industrial balsamic only since the 1980s. Maybe someone else can sort things out for me.

Their web site does note the difference between what they make and true balsamic, which is referred to in Italy (according to the site) as "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale". There are government standards covering the production of both industrial and traditional balsamic.

[ghostrider]

This web page seems to give a pretty good summary. It perpetuates the story of the Hazan influence.

I've been wondering about labelling regulations in the US, though, and this doesn't completely clarify the issue:

Any bottle of the most authentic version, called aceto balsamic tradizionale, will be corked and sealed with wax or a lead capsule and bear a ribbon or a stamp of the producer's insignia. Italian law regulates the phrase "aceto balsamico tradizionale," and any Italian product with that name will state the point of origin, either Reggio Emilia or Modena. But it will not show an age on the label.

Not all artfully sealed, beribboned bottles contain true aceto balsamico tradizionale. The laws limiting the use of buzz words like "balsamico" or phrases like "balsamic vinegar of Modena" or "di Modena" are loose. They can signify a minimally aged blend, or unpalatable boiled caramel and vinegar.

In 1993, the Italian government banned the use of the term "balsamico," as well as reference to Modena or Reggio Emilia on any bottle but "tradizionale," pure balsamico, aged at least 12 years. The law, however, governed only Italian production.

In the United States, any vinegar can be called balsamic. The term has lost meaning, as the vinegar has lost character. And labels are often misleading. A giant "6" or "21" on the label means nothing about the age of what is inside the bottle, Corti said. "It's illegal to put the age of the vinegar on the bottle," he continued, "but they can print a number on there, and the customers make the inference."

It's clear what you can do in Italy & what you can do in the US, but not how Italian imports are governed by US regulations. Could an unscrupulous importer slap a new label with the term "balsamico" onto bottles of the industrial stuff?

I need to do more research, obviously, but I'm out of time right now.

[Fat Guy]

On Google's book search there are a couple of references to "balsamic vinegar" from 1950s cooking and travel books. For example, in Take Two & Butter 'Em While They're Hot: Heirloom Recipes Kitchen Wisdom, by Barbara Swell, there are instructions for making a tomato salad, including "Sprinkle with shreds of fresh basil and drizzle Balsamic vinegar or Italian dressing on top."

[ghostrider]

A quick search of the shelves at the Italian deli where I work yielded several imported brands labelled aceto balsamico di Modena, all clearly the industrial variety. Kudos to the Don Cesare brand for at least listing the ingredients clearly so that you know exactly what you are buying.

I guess this usage is so commonplace that it doesn't even qualify as unscrupulous.

I didn't see the term tradizionale anywhere; perhaps that still has meaning.

[Pan]

A quick search of the shelves at the Italian deli where I work yielded several imported brands labelled aceto balsamico di Modena, all clearly the industrial variety.  Kudos to the Don Cesare brand for at least listing the ingredients clearly so that you know exactly what you are buying.

I guess this usage is so commonplace that  it doesn't even qualify as unscrupulous.[...]

←

That brings to my mind the question of whether, if something is commonly done, it is ipso facto OK, and can't be unscrupulous. Do you personally feel the non-listing of ingredients is OK? By the way, I thought US regulations required the listing of ingredients.

[ghostrider]

Do you personally feel the non-listing of ingredients is OK? By the way, I thought US regulations required the listing of ingredients.

←

No, I don't feel that it's OK, but I was kind of ready to just throw up my hands earlier.

The Don Cesare brand listed "must vinegar, wine vinegar, food coloring." I couldn't find any such listing on the others, though one of them did say "aged 6 years."

Perhaps, since it's all vinegar, these don't really qualify as ingredients per se? I really don't know how they get around what I also thought was a requirement.

[Pontormo]

FYI re Marcella Hazan:

I checked her first book (1973); my copy is from the NINTH printing only five years after publication. Clearly the book was timely. There is little mention of vinegar at all. It's not a subject in the long introduction where the author addresses essential ingredients and issues. Of course, her text takes into account what was and was not available in 1973 in the United States. However, in her section on salads, she specifically calls for a GOOD FRENCH red wine vinegar.

In her second book (1978) which I actually purchased first since reviews praised its superioty, balsamic vinegar is mentioned very, very briefly. She devotes a single paragraph to the subject on page 412, noting the fact that it "...is beginning to find its way here in extremely limited quantities." Hazan gives credit to Waverly Root for his detailed account of aceto balsamico di Modena in The Food of Italy.

That is it. She does not include any recipes that list the "very special vinegar" as an ingredient. Unless the influence of MH took place off the printed page, it sounds if other forces should be sought. As I mentioned in my original post, I think issues of Gourmet should be gleaned.

Edited March 22, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[Jay Francis]

I have decided that, once in my life, I need to splurge and buy an expensive bottle of balsamic vinegar. Knowing, though, how in the tequila industry, price does not reflect quality, I am very nervous about plunking down a lot of money for what would turn out to not be anything more than a 'boutique' balsamic with a high price tag.

I need help. If anyone has had the opportunity to taste and assess different balsamics and could recommend an excellent one.

[Fat Guy]

Are you located in the United States? If so I'd suggest there is only one place from which you should order Balsamico: the Rare Wine Company out of California. They have by far the best selection and the best reputation for integrity. You'll find, I believe, that they stand behind every product they sell. Have a look at their Balsamico circular:

http://www.rarewineco.com/pdfs/Balsamico%2...05%20Retail.pdf

I'd suggest one of the $59 bottles to start, if they have any in stock. You might have to wait until the next importing season, though -- these things go quickly.

[rooftop1000]

Jay this picture contains all you need to know...this is the only bottle shape approved by the Consorzio in Modena. It contains 100ml...there are 3 grades red label, silver, and gold.

http://egianni.co.uk/gourmet_foods.asp?Spe...y=493&Lingua=US

tracey

glad I didnt have to take a picture of my sticky old bottle

[Daniel Rogov]

A Passion for Balsamico

Daniel Rogov

Among the souvenirs that Christopher Columbus brought back from his second trip to the New World were twelve balsam pine saplings. Although the trees were indigenous to North

America they took root comfortably in Europe, especially in Italy.

Today, North Americans know the balsam pine largely because of its

use as Christmas trees. Italians, on the other hand, use the wood

of these trees primarily to make barrels in which to the produce

balsamico or, as Americans know it, balsamic vinegar.

Even though balsamico has been well known to Europeans for nearly

five hundred years, Americans only began to learn about the charms

of this fragrant, sweet and sour vinegar about a decade ago.

Since the first balsamic vinegars appeared on American shelves (including

several that are kosher) some of the more snobbish

among us are now claiming that once having tasted it, it is

impossible to return to using anything else. That is a distinct

exaggeration, but because balsamic vinegar can add a special touch

of charm to many dishes, it is definitely worth getting to know.

Despite its newfound popularity, very few (especially it seems

those who import and sell it) seem to know very much about

balsamic vinegar. There are few secrets. True balsamic vinegar is

made in Modena, not far from Bologna in Italy, by crushing white

Trebbiano grapes, heating the juice and then aging it in wood

barrels so that its becomes more concentrated and intense in both

aroma and flavor. Those new to buying this vinegar should be aware

that the very best examples age in wood casks, and the vinegar is

transferred from barrel to barrel for between three and sixty

years. Some producers use different kinds of wood in their

barrels, but at one stage or another all use balsam, for it is the

gummy and oily aromatic resins from this wood that give true

balsamico its distinctive flavors and aromas.

Simply stated, the longer the vinegar has been aged in wood, the

richer will be its deep brown color, the more enchanting will be

its sweet and sour flavor, and the less pungent will be its aroma.

The words "aceto balsamico tradizionale" on labels indicate that

the vinegar in the bottle has been aged for more than three years

and that the vinegar was aged in at least four different barrels,

each made of a different kind of wood, before it was bottled.

Buyers should also be aware that much of the balsamic vinegar now

being sold is unaged. That does not mean that one should not

buy these vinegars, for even though they lack qualities of

greatness, they have a pleasing sweetness and a good balance of

flavors not found in other vinegars.

Nearly all of the balsamic vinegars available here come in aged

and unaged versions. The unaged vinegars range in price from NIS

Most versions come in simple bottles. A few come in designer bottles and these

should be avoided because even though they contain precisely the

same vinegar, they cost 40 - 70% more. Following are my

evaluations of several widely available balsamic vinegars

available. As always, scores are based on a maximum of 100

points. Vinegars rated 90 - 100 are those I consider outstanding

and those that earn 80 - 89 are good to excellent. Those that

score 70 - 79 are average and at least somewhat faulted.

Adriano Grosolli 92

Fini 89

Ca' d'este 89

Ca' d'este (kosher) 89

De Nigris 85

Mazetti 83

Monari Federazoni 80

Regardless of their scores, all are appropriate for sprinkling

over roast chicken, grilled vegetables, salads or with fruits such

as melons. The way to taste balsamic vinegar is to place a drop or

two on the back of the hand, rub it vigorusly with the palm of the

other hand, then to inhale deeply and finally to lick the palm

with the tongue. Those who want to exaggerate or to make an

impression on their acquaintances excess should consider buying

vintage balsamico such as a 250 ml. bottle of the 1939 vinegar of

De Nigris which costs more than $1,300. Those who want to go to

major excess can buy one or more half liter bottles of the 1727

balsamic vinegar of Adriano Grossoli for $122,000 each.

[Richard Kilgore]

I have used inexpensive, barely aged "Balsamic" vinegars as just another red vinegar. I have tasted an older one of about 30 years, as I recall, and it was a different thing altogether.

I once read that balsamic of quality starts at about 12 year old. I think it was Jim Harrison who wrote that in one of his food essays. So I picked up a bottle of Manicardi balsamic labeled "12" recently. I was assured by the Italian market manager that it was 12 year old. When I got home I read the label and the booklet that came in the box with it very carefully...more than once...and could find nothing that said "12 year old" clearly and unequivocally. Now, I agree that "12" is a very fine number, a number that any cook would be charmed to own, but is it any more than a fine number?

Beyond wanting to know what I have and whether it is balsamic, a close cousin, distant relative or stranger to balsamic, it would be good to hear how you use balsamic, be it 12, 40 or 100 year old.

[Gifted Gourmet]

My bottle of Balsamic "Tradizionale vecchio" is at least 12 years old and the "Tradizionale extra vecchio" (extra old) is supposed to be at least 25 years old. Both are marvelously smooth and mellow but the extra vecchio is thicker and considerably more packed with flavor.

I use them sparingly in salad dressings, use with great care at the end (or near the end) of the cooking process because that subtlety can easily evaporate, and I once actually read that when serving balsamic on desserts or fruits, one only needs to add a couple of drops, even spray it on with an atomizer or small spray bottle... that is how valuable (my) balsamic is ...

[MobyP]

Not all extra vecchio tradizionale balsamics are that good. I bought one when in Modena - 25 or 50 years old - and I've found the acidity is unbalanced. I've had more interesting 50 year olds, as well as more interesting 12 year olds.

[tammylc]

Here's a little primer from Zingerman's on the different kinds of things labeled balsalmic vinegar.

http://www.zingermans.com/Article.pasp?ArticleID=article30

Also, there was a really good eGullet thread recently about the history of balsamic vinegar in the US. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...714&hl=balsamic

[Marlene]

I use a regular balsamic (like Maile for example) to paint steaks with or use in cooked sauces. Anything where it will add flavour but the distinctiveness will be lost with cooking.

I have a much older balsamic (I think it's a 15 year old) that I use to drizzle on roasted asparagus, parmesan, and dressings where the distinctive flavour is going to come through.

I just checked my cupboards and these are what I currently have:

A bottle of Cavalli Condimento. Thick and syrupy, I use this to finish sauces and dressings.

A bottle of Acetaia Dodi Balsamic condimeto. It's similar to the Cavalli and I use it the same way. Both came from Italy and were brought to me as gifts.

A bottle of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Giuseppe Giusti also from Italy

A bottle of Maile "balsamic vinegar"

Edited June 14, 2006 by Marlene (log)

[Richard Kilgore]

I have used inexpensive, barely aged "Balsamic" vinegars as just another red vinegar. I have tasted an older one of about 30 years, as I recall, and it was a different thing altogether.

I once read that balsamic of quality starts at about 12 year old. I think it was Jim Harrison who wrote that in one of his food essays. So I picked up a bottle of Manicardi balsamic labeled "12" recently. I was assured by the Italian market manager that it was 12 year old. When I got home I read the label and the booklet that came in the box with it very carefully...more than once...and could find nothing that said "12 year old" clearly and unequivocally. Now, I agree that "12" is a very fine number, a number that any cook would be charmed to own, but is it any more than a fine number?

it would be good to hear how you use balsamic, be it 12, 40 or 100 year old.

←

I found a few additional answers on Amazon, which has a wide range of Manicardi balsamic vinegars.

Manicardi 12 Year Old Traditional Balsamic for $89.99 and Manicardi #12 Balsamic (which the text implies is at least six years old) for $21.99. The latter is the one I got, but paid only $11.95. I am sure the market manager I bought it from actually thought it was some grade of 12 year old. Balsamic territory is buyer beware territory. I am sure I will find it useful anyway.

[albiston]

Balsamic territory is buyer beware territory.

←

In a sense you're right Richard. Unfortunately there are too many industrial interests on "balsamico" so distinguishing plain wine vinegar added with molasses and the real traditional stuff.

The secret to finding the real stuff is that you have to look for one of these two names: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia or Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. There are a few people who use the traditional production method – which uses wine must as starting material and the famous barrel batteries for ageing– outside the two denominations, but almost all of the classic producers fall into one of the two.

I have a bottle of traditional Balsamico from Reggio Emilia I bought directly from a friend who produces it. It is about 30 years old, and hence cannot be sold officially as traditional balsamico (only 12, 25, 50 years or longer of ageing are allowed). I never use it in cooking: it would destroy the incredible aroma. Instead I add a few drops just before serving. It is great on frittate (especially onion ones), carpaccio, parmesan, simple risotti, strawberries (but also other berries that are not too sour) and even on ice-cream, but not on salad. Or even better, I drink a small teaspoon as aperitif or digestive.

[docsconz]

The best place to buy balsamico tradizionale di Modena is of course Modena. Short of that The rare Wine Co. is a good choice. The Acetaia del Cristo and Pedroni balsamici are particularly great.

[James Kessler]

I'd like to buy a bottle of some really nice balsamic as a finishing sauce (for drizzling) over cheeses, desserts, or possibly on some dishes. I'm just beginning to learn about the correct use of this powerful and beautiful ingredient. However, I don't know enough to recognize specific makers of the stuff. Today I was looking on the shelf in the store at various aged Balsamics that were selling for upwards of $100 and over, just for a tiny bottle. Now, I'm not really put off by the price, provided I know I'm getting a product I will really value. Can someone suggest a SPECIFIC bottle to look for? I would like to spend around $60 if it's possible to get something really good for that price. I can see that the good stuff is more viscous than the cheap stuff. That sounds good to me. I would love to get something with a really reduced, thick flavor right out of the bottle.

Any help?

[andiesenji]

I have a bottle of 50-year-old Pedroni-Cesare and a bottle of 75 -year-old Giusti Reserva Condimenti, etc., etc., that a friend brought back from Italy.

These are "sipping" or apéritif "vinegars" and my friend advised me to pour 1/4 oz over crushed ice and add seltzer water. They are both delicious.

I have several other bottles of various ages and most are fine for drizzling over cheese, meat, in salads, and so on.

I found one rather inexpensive one that is quite good, in fact, it is (to my taste) superior to some that are much more costly. It is produced by San Giacomo and comes in a neat little squat, square bottle with a wide cork stopper. I found a single bottle at Marshall's, (of all places) and it was marked down to 11.00.

I actually bought it for the bottle, but was very plesantly suprised by the flavor.vendor #1

Chefshop

has a great selection of both balsamic and other vinegars.

Edited July 8, 2006 by andiesenji (log)