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johnder

johnder's Brooklyn Kitchen Renovation.

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Last fall my wife and I purchased a small house in Park Slope, Brooklyn. Given the outrageous house prices in this neighborhood, we settled on a single-family frame house that, well -- left a kitchen to be much desired.

I have a fairly extensive background in construction, both from work when I was younger, as also having to do with the fact my parents totally gutted their brownstone when I was a teenager, doing all the work themselves. There is nothing like living in a construction zone for 6 years to appreciate a home renovation.

That said, myself, my wife and a few very very good friendshave been gutting and renovating the kitchen for the past few months with some pretty impressive progress.

We have been living without a kitchen for approximately 4 months now, surviving on a slop sink, fridge and microwave for our eating (and tons of freshdirect food).

I have been taking pictures along the way -- it is quite a show. Given that work has slowed down recently (I failed to mention I have a day job, so this work is taking place after work and 3 day weekends), I thought by maybe opening up this process to everyone would give me some new found encouragement to pick up the pace.

With that said, I start with a old floor plan the realtor gave us showing the first floor layout (it is a 2 story, + finished attic building)

floorplan.GIF


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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As you can see, the kitchen was really pathetic. 7'8 x 8' and the bathroom for the first floor was only reachable through the kitchen. Sad.

Here are some pictures of the kitchen and bathroom. (this was during the closing walkthrough, the previous owners items were still in the kitchen)

old_kitchen.jpg

old_bathroom.jpg


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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The requirements of our new kitchen were ambitious. The back of the house, contains a great backyard. Unfortunately as you can see on the plan, it is accessible from the from of the house via a pathway, or the door on the side of the house off the dining room. Which would be hard to navigate with trays of food for outside dining.

That said we wanted a door to the backyard from the kitchen, as well as bigger windows to let more natural light in.

We wanted a island or peninsula that the two of us could eat breakfast at, or sit and talk while the other is cooking during our nightly meals.

We wanted a large ~48" 6 top stove.

We wanted copious cabinets, containing mostly drawers for storage of kitchen items.

We wanted it to be big, but not too big that we would loose too much of the dining room.

We wanted the bathroom moved out of the kitchen area and replaced with a 1/2 bath further forward in the house.

After several iterations of the house design with our architect, we came up with the final plan.

plan.gif


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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I need to get back to my day job, I will post more details/pics later when I have some time.


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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So given the new plan in hand, my wife started researching appliances and I along with some friends started the demolition. As you can see from the previous pictures, the bottom 1/2 of the wall was covered in subway tile, while the upper 1/2 was old-school plaster/lathe.

We started by pulling the stove out and working on the east wall, trying to determine what lies under the plaster/tile. I am not sure how many of you have had the pleasure of removing plaster/lathe before but it is the messiest work you can imagine. Dust goes everywhere. Even with a good quality respirator, we were inhaling our fair share of dust.

Turns out the tile was installed over a mortar bed, on top of metal lathe. Not the most exciting thing to remove, but the razor sharp metal made it very interesting.

tiledemo.jpg

timedemo3.jpg


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Hi Johnder,

I cant wait to watch this! I do this in my mind every morning at 4:30 when I can't sleep. You are so lucky to have a space to redo. Bravo!

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So we were happily demolishing the walls and behind the first corner we opened up (the one behind the picture above) we found some evidence of --- termites. We had a pretty extensive house inspection, along with a dedicated termite inspection since the house inspector found slight termite damage in the basement. Both of them said it was damage from several years ago and although they didn't think it was serious, they couldn't tell the damage behind closed walls.

Well -- behold the damage behind closed walls.

termite2.jpg

This was found in the parting wall that seperated the kitchen corner from the dining room. Luckily this damage was in a place that it could be repaired and wasn't structural.

No signs of live critters though, which is a good thing. We ended up treating all the replacement wood going in with borates, which termites don't like, so hopefully this will prevent the nasties from coming back.

On a brighter side, right around this time, my wife found a great deal on the appliances we wanted.

For the fridge we ended up getting Jenn-Air

french door bottom freezer (model JFC2087H). We needed a counter depth model since we had a existing drain pipe which was behind where it was going to be installed. If we got a deeper model it would have ended up protruding too much into the aisle.

For the stove, we were torn between a Viking 6 top, or the Wolf (sub-zero) 6 top. After poking and prodding both in the showroom we decided on the Wolf. Mainly because my parents have a 6 top Viking, and over the past 3 years have replaced the oven hinges twice, and the igniters twice, which concerned me.

There was a noticeable difference between the door hinges as you could expect, and the Wolf design seems much sturdier and well made. I also liked the fact you can get the Wolf with the "french-top", but at this point we couldn't spend the extra $1000 for it, so we got it with the 6top, +griddle option.

For the dishwasher, it was a no-brainer. We ended up ordering the Bosch SHU 66C05

We currently have this sitting at the dealer waiting for delivery. Hopefully I will see them delivered shortly -- but who knows.

Anyway, more pictures later.

P.S. Don't worry SWISS_CHEF, I practically lived with a mask on during that time.


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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thanks for posting pictures of your progress. I'm just beginning to plan my own renovation and have never been through one. I'll have good advice on the design from architect friends but there's no substitute for the experiencing the actual process, even if it's vicarious. please keep posting.

ps--i love your plan, esp. the access to courtyard--a connection to the outdoors when you live in an urban area is such a bonus!



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Another great saga unfolds on eGullet! Thanks for the photos; I join the others who await the photos. (The drawings are tough for me to read, I'm afraid.) I'm also intrigued by your Wolf -- lots of folks seem to install those without the proper precautions for heat intensity and ventilation, so I'm eager to learn what you did.

edited to add: Where in Park Slope? In the late 1980s I lived on 4th St just off 7th Ave, so I hadda ask.


Edited by chrisamirault (log)

Chris Amirault

camirault@eGstaff.org

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Sir Luscious got gator belts and patty melts

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Wow! I have to admitt when I saw the original layout, and then heard you mention you were looking for a 48" range, I did this: :rolleyes:

The plan looks really workable ... the backdoor is a great addition!

A couple questions:

  • Where are you sourcing your cabinets? What kind (wood, painted, etc.)
  • The eating bar extending into the dining room ... is it raised or the same level as the other countertops?
  • The countertops to the right of the fridge ... any specific use for them?
  • What kind of countertops?

A.

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Just wanted to add my thanks for posting your experiences. I, too, am on the verge of renovating and really appreciate the shared experiences of those who post renovation threads on eGullet, as well as all the surrounding discussion and suggestions.

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I'm dying to ask...where did you put the bathroom?

Well currently it doesn't exist, but the plan is to carve out a small space next to the steps you see in the plan. The steps actually head up to the 2nd floor, and down to the basement. We are going to take the slice that is near those steps and put a small 1/2 bath along with a coat closet. We have a full bath upstairs which we are using in the meantime.

john

{edit: typo}


Edited by johnder (log)

John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Cheers to you for doing this yourselves. We are on our second DIY project; fortunately, this one did not involve any walls. Just electrical and gas work. 'Tis amazing what one uncovers as one digs into walls, etc.

And, our family of 5 lived for many years with just one toilet.

In the meantime, as you live with no kitchen, have you thought about a toaster oven? It really opens up new avenues for cooking...


Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"

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Another great saga unfolds on eGullet! Thanks for the photos; I join the others who await the photos. (The drawings are tough for me to read, I'm afraid.) I'm also intrigued by your Wolf -- lots of folks seem to install those without the proper precautions for heat intensity and ventilation, so I'm eager to learn what you did.

We planned to install a "commercial style" range from the start, as you will see from pictures coming up, we planned accordingly.  We installed a 3/4" gas line as well as concrete backer-board throughout the kitchen. (this was mainly due to the fact we are installing subway tile, but also it makes a great heat shield for the stove)

For ventilation, we picked the a commerical style  Broan hood, and the Broan P8 850 CFM blower vented out the back of the house.

We currently live on 15th, just off 6th avenue.

edited to add: Where in Park Slope? In the late 1980s I lived on 4th St just off 7th Ave, so I hadda ask.


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Wow!  I have to admitt when I saw the original layout, and then heard you mention you were looking for a 48" range, I did this:  :rolleyes:

The plan looks really workable ... the backdoor is a great addition!

Thanks, it went through quite a few iterations to get to this stage.

A couple questions:

[*]Where are you sourcing your cabinets? What kind (wood, painted, etc.)

This was another big black hole of time, researching cabinets. We looked around for custom, semi-custom and stock cabinet options, an found things we liked and disliked about all of them. In the end, we ended up with Kraftmaid cabinets -- cherry in a style called Deveron Autum Blush. I will post pictures to them later in the series. We mainly picked them because of the range of options the offered, and price. We got a really good deal on them and even with the upgrade of full-plywood construction and full extension drawer slides it didn't kill out budget.

I will post more details about the cabinets later.

[*]The eating bar extending into the dining room ... is it raised or the same level as the other countertops?

It will be the same height througout the kitchen, the pennisula included.

[*]The countertops to the right of the fridge ... any specific use for them?

The plan for that area will mostly be the area we will have the espresso machine I love, which has been sitting in a box for the past few months. Also, it is hard to tell from the stuff I posted, but the cabinet directly to the right of the fridge is a microwave base cabinet. This cabinet will contain the microwave, which is convienent because 99% of the stuff going into the microwave comes out of the fridge.

Also, my wife -- the baker wanted an area she can have all her baking stuff, so this will be her area. The kitchen-aid mixer and sheetpans will be stored in this area.

[*]What kind of countertops?

Oh boy -- we are still "discussing" [arguing] about this item. I really want a quartz countertop, while my wife wants possibly butcherblock. As of this date, we still don't have a decision on the countertops.


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Cheers to you for doing this yourselves.  We are on our second DIY project; fortunately, this one did not involve any walls.  Just electrical and gas work.  'Tis amazing what one uncovers as one digs into walls, etc.

And, our family of 5 lived for many years with just one toilet.

In the meantime, as you live with no kitchen, have you thought about a toaster oven?  It really opens up new avenues for cooking...

We have thought about making out kitchen more hospitible, but at this point we are trying to make it at the point where it is somewhat difficult to live with, as it helps with the motivation. :biggrin:

Luckily it is just the two of us, and our somewhat anxious dog. (picture left)

So far he seems to be dealing with all the commotion pretty well.


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Just wanted to add my thanks for posting your experiences. I, too, am on the verge of renovating and really appreciate the shared experiences of those who post renovation threads on eGullet, as well as all the surrounding discussion and suggestions.

Good luck Marmish -- just remember, as you can see, once you start -- there is no going back


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Just wanted to add my thanks for posting your experiences. I, too, am on the verge of renovating and really appreciate the shared experiences of those who post renovation threads on eGullet, as well as all the surrounding discussion and suggestions.

Good luck Marmish -- just remember, as you can see, once you start -- there is no going back

Thanks. My biggest problem is how much of the original architecture to keep. Once that is negotiated, the rest should be easier. There is a pointed arch into the breakfast area and an interesting cut out over the sink/window. I'm tempted to remove the wall with the arch and the entire soffit, but The Mister is vetoing. He's much more flexible about the rest of it.

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johnder, you cannot leave us in suspense like this...more info on the reno and more pics please! :biggrin:

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yes more pics! i can't wait,,this is really nice!

by the way john we live in connecticut. if you have some spare time my kitchen needs a few things!

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Ok, ok! Sorry, I spent the entire weekend working on the house. It's hard to slack off at home when there is so much work to do. (It is much easier to slack off at my day-job) :biggrin:

So let us pick up where we left off. As the demo continued, we started gather a huge pile of debris. We ended up throwing most of the wood debris out the window into the back yard as you can see:

pile1.jpg

As far as all the tile, plaster debris we ended up just bagging it all and throwing it out.

In New York City a dumpster is a very expensive proposition. It will run $800-1000 bucks for a 5 cubic yard dumpster, so in the hopes of saving money we used a clause in the NYC department of sanitation guidelines. This allows you to dispose of 6 garbage bags of construction debris as long as they are securely bundled and weight less than 60 pounds each. (We have pickup twice a week) The tile / plaster demo ended up consuming almost 110 contractor bags worth of debris.

Needless to say, the garbagemen dreaded pickup at our house.

The demo continued, here is a picture of where the sink used to be, when we started the demo we found some remnants of old lead supply pipe behind the sinks, which you can barely make out in the corner of this photo.

tiledemo2.jpg

Here is a picture of some more termite damage. This was in the wall that seperates the old bathroom and the dining room. The big drain pipe you see if a drain from the roof. Yes -- that is a lead downspout connecting to a cast iron pipe.

termite1.jpg


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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Once we got all the demo done, we found that the back of the house had a bad sill plate which was water damaged and in a place or two termite eaten. So what is one to do? Jack up the back of the house and replace it of course!

We used these handy jacks to take the load off the back wall enough so we could temporarily shore it up while we replaced the bad timbers.

These are the jacks we used

jack.jpg

and after it was jacked and the temporary supports put in, we started removing the sheating.

jacking.jpg


John Deragon

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I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- Dean Martin

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:shock: Yikes!!! This is beyond a kitchen reno...it's a kitchen rebuild... Good luck and keep posting. We want to see how this progresses!

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      I. Introduction
       
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      A. Temperature Settings
       
      Unfortunately, with every pan I tried, the temperature settings were wildly inaccurate for measuring the temperature of the food. I heated 2 liters of peanut oil in a variety of pots, disk-base, enameled cast iron enameled steel, and copper. I thought it might be useful to see how close to 350F and 375F the settings were for deep frying. The oil in a Le Creuset 5.5Q Dutch oven set to 350F never made it past 285F, and it took 40:00 to get there. I kept bumping up the setting until I found that the setting for 420F will hold the oil at 346F. A disk-based pot didn’t hit 365F until the temperature setting was boosted to 400F. The only pan which came remotely close to being true to the settings was a 2mm silvered copper oven, which heated its oil to 327F when the Panasonic was set for 350F, and 380F when set for 410F.
       
      The temperature function was a lot closer to true when simply preheating an empty pan. With a setting of 350F, all the shiny stainless pans heated to just a few degrees higher (about 353-357F) and held there. This is useful for judging the Leidenfrost Point (which is the heat at which you can oil your SS and have it cook relatively nonstick) and potentially for “seasoning” carbon steel, SS and aluminum, but not much else, since it doesn’t translate to actual food temperature. There’s also the issue of the temperature settings *starting* at 285F, so holding a lower temperature for, e.g., tempering chocolate or a sous vide bath, or even a simmer would be by-guess-by-golly just like any other hob—your only resort is lots of experience with lower *power* settings.
       
      With heat-tarnished copper, a 350F setting resulted in a wide swinging between 353F and 365F, which I attribute to the copper shedding heat far faster than the other constructions, once the circuit stops the power at temperature. Then, when the circuit cycles the power back on, the copper is so responsive that it quickly overshoots the setting. Aluminum, on the other hand, *undershot*, the 350F setting, registering a cycle of 332-340F.

      I conclude that the IR sensor is set for some particular emissivity, probably for that of stainless steel. If true, the Panasonic, even though it automatically switches frequencies, does not compensate for the different emissivities of copper and aluminum. And even if Panasonic added dedicated aluminum and copper IR sensors, there is enough difference between dirty and polished that the added cost would be wasted. Bottom line here: the temperature setting mode is of extremely low utility, and should not be trusted.
       
      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

    • By haresfur
      We have started into fixing the kitchen after starting planning several years ago - almost as long as the dishwasher has been dead and the oven barely functional. And don't get me started on the non-exhaust fan.
       
      Before the destruction but after removing all the crap:
       

       
       
       

       
      The fridge was replaced not too long ago and is staying where it is. We had to have its alcove expanded. Perhaps not the best ergonomic location but it fits. We aren't moving the other appliances or sink very far so are hoping the plumbing and electric are no big deal.
       
      End of first day. We caught a couple of things in time. The fume hood and cupboards over the cook-top were set too low. They were going to set the sink as an over-mount when we had bought and under-mount. Apparently it could be done either way but silly us for not making it clear that the sink described as an undermount should be under the counter top. We decide the cupboard to the right of the oven should open the other way so we can get in there when cooking. Our mistake but I hope we can keep the oil, salt, pepper, etc. there rather than cluttering up the counter. The cabinet guy insisted that the cook-top couldn't be centred over the oven. I still don't understand why but not a big deal. It will be easier to get around the island when someone else is cooking but harder to squeeze past into the pantry.
       
      It seems to me that the walls should have been re-done before the cabinets went up. I think this was easier on the cabinet guy who is doing most of the coordination but probably will be a pain for the plasterer. And we have some trim issues to work out.
       

       

       

       
      Day 2 fixing things, electrical work, and measuring for the countertops. Now we wait for them to be finished before much else can happen.
       

       
      Spock is not impressed.
       
       
    • By &roid
      We’ve lived in our house for about twelve years and did a small extension not long after we moved in. With our growing family (son number two arrived this July) we wanted to get a bit more living space so started looking at options about a year ago. We have a late Victorian house with a separate dining room, as nice as this is it’s been a big waste of space - we probably used it two or three times a year. So the plan was to extend the kitchen to add a decent sized dining area and free up the dining room for something better. 
       
      The kitchen we had is under ten years old so we’ve decided to keep some parts of it, adding new worktops, a large rangetop and a breakfast cabinet with pocket doors to hide away the toaster and coffee machine. 
       
      We’re about halfway through the build at the moment so thought I’d post up some pictures of our progress. Hopefully we’ll be finished this side of Christmas... hopefully!
    • By chocoera
      Hi guys!  So...as we all know hindsight is 20/20....so i'm sure we ALLLLLLLLLLLL  have things we'd do differently if setting up our home or professional workplaces.  I'm working with a space that's approximately 850 sq ft.  If you could create your ideal space, what would you do?  The kicker is, i'm a mixed media kitchen, i dont do straight chocolate work.  I do baking so i'll have a double vertical convection oven, i'm getting rid of my 6 burner range and switching to table top induction burners. I have a dishwasher and big sink for rinsing vs 3 compartment sink (hand sink of course) and mop sink....and i have multiple 7 ft and 8 ft stainless tables. I currently have a "cooling room" set up with 4 speed racks, but thought maybe i should switch to a fridge turned up to 40 or 50F? I freeze things for bulk production, so will still have some chest freezers set higher than normal....but yeah. i'm just at a loss of how to capitalize on space, and keep things organized and storage of bon bons, turtles, barks, chocolate caramel apples (things that need to be stored for packaging by employees before they hit the retail floor)  i know jin from vegas had a fridge set at 50F for cooling molds once sprayed and shelled, then once she filled them, moved to a 40F fridge to set filling, then she sealed them...but i didn't remember where she kept bon bons for her bar (where customers pick and choose) or the ones out ready to be boxed?  i know she and jean marie were freezing for bulk orders etc...but yeah.  my mind is just overwhelmed with possibilities, and i just dont want to mess up this new kitchen layout. i think its harder because i make so many things in my kitchen, so i have pots, pans, sheet pans, springforms, cookie cutters, muffin tins, kitchen aid mixers, a floor mixer,  mol d'arts, baking liners, molds, colors, EZ temper, brushes, kitchen utensils, transfer sheets, bulk chocolate and ingredients blah blah blah.   so. if you guys could make an ideal workflow....would you do a walk-in fridge for confection storage? a few fridges set higher (but would humidity be an issue if stored for multiple days before packaging), build another cooling room (it was a room with drywall/insulation/a door/speedracks and portable AC set to keep that room cooler...), or yeah.  thoughts?  oh yeah. and  i need to fit an enrober in there too.  sooooo, ideal workspace. what's in it?  and go!  :0)
    • By weinoo
      I've started a few topics about various renovation related subjects (here and here), but figured I'd put the overall project in its own. Pix often tell the story even better...
       
      It helps to have these. Well, you need to have these if you expect to get anything done in your coop.
       

       
      Then stuff can start...
       

       

       

       
      And then start getting rebuilt.
       

       

       
      A little better electrical system.
       

       

       
      New pipes have to be done in the walls.
       

       

       

       

       
      This Started on September 8th. They've had approximately 25 days on which work was done.
       
      Proceeding along nicely, I'd say.
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