Favorites New York City eateries

[tommy]

not to jump on someone else's train, but i didn't get prune either.  the place was cramped and not particularly interesting looking, the service was gruff and didn't seem particulary interested or enlightened, and the food was just ok.  a far cry and actually exactly the opposite from what would seem to be its obvious competition, the tasting room a few doors down.

maybe they had an off night?

[Akiko]

Okay,

I must defend...

Everyone has their own taste... I guess, but I'm bewildered by the response concerning Prune.

I am a huge fan of Gabrielle because her food is simple.... I'm really tired of all the accolades given to chefs like charlie trotter when I know that despite what you expect, the food is not freshly made... and visits to restaurants of the "great chefs" have been a hit or miss affair to me, partly because there is so much hype and elitism involved.

The article in food and wine is meant to be a tongue and cheek look at our "super chefs" and the marketing machines they have become, that to be them maybe sometimes what becomes more important is the marketing, rather than the actual product.

What did you have to eat?  I know she'd hate that I'm asking this, but was Gabrielle in the kitchen?  

I love the succulent bone marrow salad with tender parsley in olive oil, lemon, and sea salt.

Her goat cheese with shreds of red onion again with olive oil and sea salt on brown bread is excellent.

When she has braised short ribs on yorkshire pudding, that dish is to die for, as is the hangar steak in garlic, parsley butter...mmm.

I hate anchovies but like her mild dish of anchovies paired with almonds.

And the sweetbreads in panko with a lemon butter caper sauce, crunches in your mouth and then melts.  

When my husband gets the lamb sausages, I want to spoon her dijon mustard straight into my mouth... but have learned that actions like that disgust everyone else at the table (I've been tempted to spoon her pan sauces from her dishes to my mouth too but found that if you reserve some of her delicious just vinegary enough pomme frittes to soak up the sauce with, you'll be better received.)

Most of Gabrielle's food has to do with simple tastes married with other simple flavors that marry so well together.  The anchovies and almonds is a prime example, as is her radishes and sweet cream butter.

Non elitist, not pretentious, I agree, those are things that Prune is not.  Bad food?  I don't think so.  

And the comments about the canned beans?  Even Saveur has rated Goya's canned beans as one of the 100 best food finds.  All Gabrielle is saying is that if you are limited to using products from New York that are in season.... what do you think that menu would look like?  I'm willing to bet that you will find some surprising items in the kitchen at a lot of our three or even four star restaurants.  New York is not exactly the land of "milk and honey" where we get fresh produce all year round.

There is a reason why Alice Waters didn't open her restaurant here in New York City.

We create with what is available.

Go back... give yourself time and space to enjoy (meaning don't go during prime rush hours on Friday or Saturday night).  Of course, if what I've described is not your cup of tea, don't bother.  New York City has too many good restaurants to waste a meal!

Best,

Akiko

[Akiko]

Here is the link to the article that Gabrielle from Prune wrote for Food and Wine

Food and Wine "A Rogue Chef"

[tommy]

i was only there once.  i would like to try the food encumbered by the gruff server.  maybe i'll give it another shot.

[wingding]

I know that the food at Prune has been hit or miss,but our last meal there was wonderful ,and a completely enjoyable experience.I like the kind of no nonsense,simple point of view of the chef,and her food I'm happier eating this kind of food downtown rather then fancy places uptown,where the food is often just as hit or miss,and I'm spending way more money;that's just me....Prune isn't Daniel,nor would I compare the two..a little anti-elitism is refreshing sometimes.

[Bux]

Well I'm glad to have Ms. Hamilton and her restaurant defended. I don't like to pick on any chef and I also know people whose opinions I respect who like Prune. She had a good point as you describe, but went overboard not only in mocking much of what makes four star food superb, but with gratuitous and fictional mental images that did not ring true to my mind. Was she talking about Jean Georges, Daniel Boulud or Alice Waters? A simplistic view of great chefs just panders to the reverse snob. Rereading her article again just now, makes me suggest one read Fat Guy's account of the GT kitchen.

I'd probably not be very surprised at what I'd find in a top restaurant kitchen and maybe less so than the author in spite of her 20 years of professional experience. I know Adria uses canned corn in a dish because it works better for him than fresh corn in this recipe and not because it saves him time. Even if she can cook, I think that was a terrible article.

Wingding, a little anti-elitism is always refreshing if it's well targeted and not anti-excellence. A good point can be made for simple cuisine without needing a scapegoat.

[Sandra Levine]

I'll also add to the list Brasserie.   it's on 100 E 53rd between Park and Lexington.

...also in the Seagram Building.

[wingding]

Bux;In reading articles and interviews with Gabrielle Hamilton,she does come across kinda blunt and curmudgeon-like.[i have a place in my heart for blunt and curmudgeonlike]Talented chefs are not always served well by lots of media attention-like all humans,some are gracious and articulate,,some have axes to grind,some have incredible knowledge of food and its' place in history,and some are really stupid,and can barely spell.People have a lot of illusions about the goings on in restaurant kitchens,and many of Hamiltons' remarks rang pretty true for me...

[thom]

Guys,

Thanks everbody for your tips, caveats, and diverting 'Prune' tangent.

Soft, malleable person that I am, my itinerary has actually changed on the basis of your input:

*Cafe Boulud is in, at the expense of Vong.

*I was mightily tempted by Blue Hill, but the style of cooking sounds similar to Gramercy, and that's kind of a favourite. Maybe next time.

*Il Mulino has moved from dinner to lunch. Well, it has in my head at least. I haven't actually been able to get through to the restaurant to discuss it. Postings elsewhere lead me to believe that a constant engaged tone is a fairly common occurence. Is there a way around this? And if so, does the food make it worth coping with the restaurant's patent arrogance and complacency in terms of customer service?

Thanks again people, you've been great.

Cheers

Thom

[AdamLawrence]

Everyone has their own taste... I guess, but I'm bewildered by the response concerning Prune.

I love the succulent bone marrow salad with tender parsley in olive oil, lemon, and sea salt.

That's fascinating - that's the signature dish of Fergus Henderson, chef/patron of St John in London - a favourite of many on the UK board. I would never have predicted Henderson's food travelling in this way.

Hey, Steve P - does this count as English food in another country?  

Adam

[Akiko]

What makes you think its his dish that has traveled to New York and not Gabrielle's that has traveled to Clerkenwell?

I am actually in the process of relocating myself from Manhattan to London and am destined to be home shopping in London next week.  St John's is on my list of places to visit, and I will definitely have his parsley and bone marrow salad... along with other dishes!  

Best,

Akiko

[Bux]

*I was mightily tempted by Blue Hill, but the style of cooking sounds similar to Gramercy, and that's kind of a favourite.

Hmmm, I don't think that's really true, but as I haven't been to the main dining room at GT in a long while, I don't know how to best describe the differences. I'd love to see other opinions on this though. I love both restaurants and think very highly of both chefs and both operations.

[SJLM]

A few old standbys have wonderful food and high class ambiance making for classic, delightful meals:  Le Grenouille, La Cote Basque, Lespinasse.  It's always nice to be able to avoid any NYC restaurant on a Sat. night.  The biggest bargains at these and most other expensive restaurants is to have lunch instead of dinner.