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The BEST: Risotto


ellenesk

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Here are two of my relatively recent risotto experiences in NYC. Both of these restaurants are taking-out-a-client worthy, although Hearth was a little loud.

Union Square Cafe:

I had the chicken liver risotto.... As Fat Guy said: "Oh. My. God. It was really good. If you like chicken livers, this is one of the highest expressions of that ingredient you're ever going to find. Lots of mushrooms in there too. Chopped liver it ain't. Nicely al dente too." There actually weren't any discernable pieces of the liver in there; it was all incorporated into the creamy goodness of the risotto. Another very rich dish, I ate about a quarter of it, shared some with the table and had about 2/3 of the dish to bring home for lunch. Mmm.

Hearth:

We also tried the Monkfish Osso Buco, but preferred its accompaniment of risotto speckled with tender calamari to the monkfish itself. It just seemed plain in comparison.

But I'm not sure if you can get the calimari risotto w/out the monkfish. Also I believe this is part of a seasonal menu, so you should probably call ahead to see if/what kind of risotto they have at the moment.

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I've been to Risotteria a few times, and although I think the food is good and its a great place for a casual meal, I wouldnt call it 'the best'. I have had risottos there that were way too salty and I think that the flavor of the risottos lack depth or something. Its been awhile, so I can't remember my beefs more specifically. Ive generally steered risotto-snob friends away from that place. Sashimi, do you have particular favorites that you order there?

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I'll place my bet on Picholine. They always have one seasonal risotto on the menu and every time I've had it it has been delicious -- a cut above most of what passes for risotto around town.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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When I still lived in Manhattan it was mine, but alas I'm in Staten Island now, so you're on your own.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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The problem with most restaurant risottos is the use of arborio rice. If carnaroli was used the results would improve significantly.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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The problem with most restaurant risottos is the use of arborio rice. If carnaroli was used the results would improve significantly.

Or my personal favorite: vialone nano.

There really aren't any places in NYC that have what I would call such an outstanding risotto that it was substantially better than I could do myself at home, although some feature luxury ingredients I probably wouldn't use. Risotto is one of the few dishes that are more difficult to execute well in a restaurant setting than in one's own home.

My favorite restaurant risotto in NYC thus far has been the escargot and black truffle risotto starter at Town. I don't know if it's still on the menu, though.

--

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I'll place my bet on Picholine. They always have one seasonal risotto on the menu and every time I've had it it has been delicious -- a cut above most of what passes for risotto around town.

Of course! How could I forget? I'm changing my vote, and hopping on the Fat Guy™ bandwagon.

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I agree Sam. In fact I would take it a step further and say I've never had a restaurant risotto that comes close to anything that's been made in my family's kitchen. (mother, grandmother and great grandmother)

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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  • 8 months later...

How much money do you want to spend and how much do you want risotto to be the focus of the meal? Town, for example, has a brilliant escargot and black truffle risotto starter. San Domenico has an excellent risotto as well, and a more Italian orientation than town. I haven't had, but hear very good things from people I trust about Gray Kunz's "risotto with mushroom fricasee," which can now be had at Cafe Cray. All are expensive.

The Kunz's "French style" risotto may be an interesting variation that your risottophile friend hasn't yet experienced. It comes in two parts: the bowl of creamy well-executed herbed risotto and a pot of wild mushroom fricasee to fold into the risotto as you see fit. Here is what Hal Rubenstein at New York Metro had to say:

The rustic opulence of risotto is perfect for Kunz, and he studs it with shards of wild mushrooms, their liquid drenching the velvety rice grains with their smoky perfume.

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The best risotto I have had in New York was the Green Apple Risotto with Fois Gras and Balsamic Reduction they used to have at L'Impero (extremely decadent). Currently, they have a Braised Rabbit Risotto with Organic Carrots and Foie Gras Foam. Has anyone tried it? L'Impero is my favorite Italian restaurant in NY, so I would chance it. Scott Conant can cook for me any time.

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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I'd add Picholine to the list of restaurants that serve good risotto, but even the best restaurant risotto is not likely to be as good as what a competent cook would be able to make at home with the same ingredients. Risotto is just one of those dishes, like most pastas, that doesn't transfer all that well into the modern restaurant context.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Risotto is just one of those dishes, like most pastas, that doesn't transfer all that well into the modern restaurant context.

It may not have the same homey context, but I wouldn't agree that it's out of place in the restaurant context altogether. Although it's not difficult to make, risotto is one of those time- and labor-intensive dishes that I'm happy to order in a restaurant because I find it such a pain in the neck to make myself.

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I enjoy the risotto at the West Bank Cafe (42nd and 9th-ish). I had a great aspargus one a couple of weeks ago.... Probably not in the same league as other mentioned here, but also not in the same price league, either.

Best,

Brad

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