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Oktoberfest style Kraut and Pototo Salad


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Hi,

I have to admit, my favorite part of Oktoberfest is the German style Sauerkraut and Potato salad that are served up with the various sausages in the food tent. They are both served warm and seem to contain bacon, and some sort of mustard for the potato salad. Does anyone have some really solid (authentic isn't necessary, I doubt what I find in New Caste, DE is authentic) recipes for these dishes? I have played around but haven't been able to completely replicate them. The Sauerkraut is the big one. If I could nail that, I would likely eat it three meals a day for an entire week...

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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The potato salad usually contains a dressing of rendered bacon fat and red wine vinegar.

The kraut you are talknig about....is it the red cabbage?

To make the red cabbage, you use a mixture of red wine vinegar and brown sugar(and I think diced onion) in a big pot. Simmer for a few minutes and then fill the pot with shredded red cabbage and cover. Stir it once in a while, but try to keep it covered so it steams. I think it takes 10 to 20 minutes, untill it softens and wilts.

I have never made the regular white saurkraut. It is basically pickled cabbage.

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... I doubt what I find in New Caste, DE is authentic) recipes for these dishes?  I have played around but haven't been able to completely replicate them.  The Sauerkraut is the big one.  If I could nail that, I would likely eat it three meals a day for an entire week...

Do you mean recipes *with* Sauerkraut or do you mean the process of producing Sauerkraut (a malolactic fermentation requiring ~8 weeks)? I found some descriptions in German when googling.

Edited by Boris_A (log)

Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler.

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... I doubt what I find in New Caste, DE is authentic) recipes for these dishes?  I have played around but haven't been able to completely replicate them.  The Sauerkraut is the big one.  If I could nail that, I would likely eat it three meals a day for an entire week...

Do you mean recipes *with* Sauerkraut or do you mean the process of producing Sauerkraut (a malolactic fermentation requiring ~8 weeks)? I found some descriptions in German when googling.

It is basic sauerkraut (not sure if it is home-made or not, I would lean towards not), but it is served warm or hot, and has pieces of bacon in it, and a very nice vinegary tang, moreso than regular sauerkraut.

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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For a party like the Oktoberfest, I think it's industrial-made.

Some qualities (acitiy etc.) of Sauerkraut are driven by the fermentation process (for example temperature; you start at higher temperatures in the first week week and lower afterwards) and the addition of spices or wine. It takes some experience and knowledge to learn that, I guess. I don't know of anybody who's producing Sauerkraut at home.

Hengstenberg , my preferred producer of canned Sauerkraut, offers no less than 5 different styles.

Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler.

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It is basic sauerkraut (not sure if it is home-made or not, I would lean towards not), but it is served warm or hot, and has pieces of bacon in it, and a very nice vinegary tang, moreso than regular sauerkraut.

My neighbour from Nuremburg makes awesome sauerkraut and she gave me the low down on how she does it.

First, buy a decent sauerkraut. Look for one that is actually German (not just one sporting a German name); they're generally in glass jars, not tinned. Our local grocery store carries one that I think starts with an M (Mannsheim???). Not sure.

At any rate, drain it, rinse it, and then put it in a pot over very, very low heat. Add some white wine (or chicken broth or vegetable broth); just enough to prevent the sauerkraut from sticking. Seasonings are juniper berries (4-6) and a clove or two.

The sauerkraut cooks on top of the stove for hours; just keep checking it to make sure its not sticking or burning.

Add bacon if you like. My neighbour is vegetarian so she doesn't add it.

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It is basic sauerkraut (not sure if it is home-made or not, I would lean towards not), but it is served warm or hot, and has pieces of bacon in it, and a very nice vinegary tang, moreso than regular sauerkraut.

My neighbour from Nuremburg makes awesome sauerkraut and she gave me the low down on how she does it.

Add some white wine (or chicken broth or vegetable broth); just enough to prevent the sauerkraut from sticking. Seasonings are juniper berries (4-6) and a clove or two.

The sauerkraut cooks on top of the stove for hours; just keep checking it to make sure its not sticking or burning.

This is, as you say, the style served around Nuremberg (white wine and juniper berries). It's a very bright-tasting, acidic preparation.

For a more typical south Bavarian style, simmer drained kraut (and rinsed if you want to cut the acidity) with chicken stock, caraway seeds, sauteed onions, chopped apples (or applesauce), and most importantly of all, pork fat. A friend of mine makes up the kraut then puts it in a pan with short ribs or country ribs on top, then roasts in the oven. All that good fat drips into the kraut, and .....yum!

Cook the day before, refrigerate overnight, cook again before serving.

As to potato salad, this is a huge pet peeve of mine. I have eaten MANY servings of Kartoffelsalat in Germany and it is NEVER served warm/hot, and it NEVER contains bacon. Sliced potatoes in a simple dressing of oil, vinegar, minced onions, salt. Maybe a bit of parsley or black pepper (maybe). It's a mystery to me why "German potato salad" in the US means hot vinegar (blech) and bacon.

---Guy

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I have used this recipe for years with great success. Serve with grilled brats and good grainy mustard (preferrably Kosciuzko's).

2 refrigerated bags of sauerkraut

6 slices bacon, diced

1 large onion, diced

4 cloves of garlic, minced

12 oz. beer, pilsner style or dry white wine

12 oz. chicken stock

1 tbls juniper berries

1 tbls caraway seeds

2 bay leaves

1-2 tsp cracked black pepper corns

Drain kraut in colander. Rinse. Place in

large bowl of cold water and soak for 10

minutes. Drain and rinse again. Squeeze as

much water out as possible and leave to

drain.

In large pot, add bacon and begin cooking.

When the fat begins to render, add the onion

and garlic. Continue cooking until the bacon

begins to brown. Add the remaining

ingredients. Stir. Cover the pot and cook

for 3 hours on very low heat, stirring when

you think of it. Uncover the kraut and

continue cooking, stirring more often to cook

off most of the liquid, about another 1/2 - 1

hour.

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Austrian Potato Salad

8 lbs small waxy red potatoes

Scrub the potatoes. Bake the potatoes

(unpeeled) until just done. If you bake

longer you will end up with mashed potato

salad when you mix, which is not a bad thing.

I don't peel the potatoes, but if you

don't like the peel, you can do that here.

Cut into cubes and place in a large ceramic

serving bowl.

Meanwhile, you've cooked this dressing:

1 lb. bacon, cut into dice

4 large onions, chopped

4 tbls. sugar

1/2 cup (more or less) flour

1/2 stick butter

2 tbls. dry mustard

1 tsp. black pepper

1 tbls tarragon

12 oz. strong chicken broth

12 oz. dark beer

1 tsp. cumin

1 tsp. salt (or to taste)

4-5 tbls. tarragon vinegar

Juice of 1 lemon

1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped

Fry bacon slowly to render fat until crisp.

Remove bacon from skillet and fry onion in

bacon fat until just starting to brown.

Remove onion. Add butter to skillet and

melt. Add sugar, melt, and cook briefly to

slightly caramelize the sugar. Add flour,

stir and make a roux, do not let this brown

too much. Add spices, stir. Add chicken (I

sometimes use beef) broth, the beer, and

vinegar. Stir the dressing until it

thickens, if it's too thick, stir in more

beer, if just right, drink the remaining beer

and don't waste it. Stir the onions and 3/4

of the bacon into the dressing with the lemon

juice. Pour the hot dressing over the hot

potatoes. Throw a couple handfuls of fresh

chopped parsley on top. Mix carefully.

Garnish with more parsley and the remaining

bacon.

Serve right away, or at room temp.

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As to potato salad, this is a huge pet peeve of mine.  I have eaten MANY servings of Kartoffelsalat in Germany and it is NEVER served warm/hot, and it NEVER contains bacon.  Sliced potatoes in a simple dressing of oil, vinegar, minced onions, salt.  Maybe a bit of parsley or black pepper (maybe).  It's a mystery to me why "German potato salad" in the US means hot vinegar (blech) and bacon.

Interesting. I have a recipe from my great-grandmother, who got it from her mother originally from Chemnitz, for Warmer Kartoffelsalat mit Speck. Potatoes, bacon, vinegar, a little sugar, flour, salt and pepper, sliced radishes, cooked and raw onion. It's not served "hot" but rather at room temperature.

Edited by hjshorter (log)

Heather Johnson

In Good Thyme

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As to potato salad, this is a huge pet peeve of mine.  I have eaten MANY servings of Kartoffelsalat in Germany and it is NEVER served warm/hot, and it NEVER contains bacon.  Sliced potatoes in a simple dressing of oil, vinegar, minced onions, salt.  Maybe a bit of parsley or black pepper (maybe).  It's a mystery to me why "German potato salad" in the US means hot vinegar (blech) and bacon.

---Guy

That is why I didn't want to limit this to authentic recipes. I don't particularly care if the dish I have eaten there is actually served or eaten in Germany at real Oktoberfest celebrations, I just wanted to be able to recreate something similar to what I have had.

Thanks for the recipes Mark.

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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I think there must be regional variations re: warm or not German Potato Salad. I used to think it was an American-German variation but I do have recipes in older Austrian cookbooks that have warm versions, some using meat broth as well.

My mom is Austrian and never makes it warm--but it does have bacon in it. (Out of curiosity, I need to ask her how my grandmother makes it).

Anyway, this is a very good Austrian Potato Salad to have with wurst.

Boil waxy potatoes and let them cool completely. (Best to make the day before and let chill in fridge overnight). (This does not make a "mashed potato" type salad; rather the pieces are kept in more individual slices).

Peel and slice cooled potatoes into bowl. Add minced onion, minced parsley, minced chives (or green onions), salt and pepper and a little bit of sugar. Add crumbled bacon. Then add in regular white vinegar and vegetable oil to taste. (Sorry I don't have measures).

I usuallly add in a decent amount of vinegar; then enough oil to coat. Mix and taste. Adjust salt and pepper and maybe vinegar.

This goes very well with bratwurst, leberwurst, blutwurst, etc.

This can also be adapted to a mayo version that has mayo and chopped, boiled eggs added to it. (use less vinegar and oil, here, then taste to adjust if you need more vinegar or salt and pepper).

I love both of these; the ingredients may look simple but many people I've served it to say that it is among the best they've had...

Edited by ludja (log)

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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I think there must be regional variations re: warm or not German Potato Salad.  I used to think it was an American-German variation but I do have recipes in older Austrian cookbooks that have warm versions, some using meat broth as well.

My mom is Austrian and never makes it warm--but it does have bacon in it.  (Out of curiosity, I need to ask her how my grandmother makes it). 

...

Although nullomodo is trying to replicate something he had, I still thought it would be interesting to comment on this for the thread. These comments relate to Austria, I don't know about Germany.

My mom confirmed my remembrance of not commonly seeing 'warm potato salad' in Austria (South, and South East) in restaurants or having it in people's homes. My mom never even heard of warm potato salad before she came over here. And once she did, it was not from the large Austrian immigrant community but rather from German or German/American sources.

My grandmother makes her potato salad similar to what I described above, but does not add bacon to it. My mom said she picked that up over here in the US. Even in the US for Octoberfest, Austrian Club dinners, etc bacon was usually not in the basic potato salad. (It is a great addition, but isn't necessary for a good salad that you'll still want to eat out of the bowl).

As an aside, potato salad in Austria is often not served alone but rather as part of a "Gemischtessalat", ie. a 'mixed salad' that could also have lettuce or cucumber salad or green bean salad. As I mentioned above per some of my cookbooks, I think there may be a 'warm' salad variation in Vienna, and maybe in at least some parts of Germany. A newer cookbook I have also has a warm version. Vienna is similar to Paris in that they often have customs, foods, etc that are distinct from the rest of the country.

If looking for potato salad in an Austrian cookbook, you won't have much luck looking under "Kartoffel" (german word for potato). In Austria they used the word, "Erdapfel" (earth potato). :smile:

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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