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Ouest / West In Vancouver


cabrales

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I love reading about the dining experiences that other people have at Ouest. It is no secret that Ouest is my favourite restaurant in Vancouver, admittedly, I am quite biased in this position. But time and time again, Chef David Hawksworth and the wonderful team at the restaurant have consistently, and quite remarkably, expanded my appreciation, expectations and education in the subtle nuance of the tastes and textures of fine dining.

OK, enough of the back patting, anyone who has dined at the restaurant will know exactly what I mean by the superior food and service at Ouest.

I do have to share quite a moment I had at the restaurant recently though. I usually sit at the bar and enjoy the conversation and food. I was hungry but had no idea what I was in the mood for, but I did know that I wanted just one big plate as I only had a short time available. I looked through the menus seeing some new items and some favourites, but still could not decide. Chef came by to say hello and asked what I was in the mood for tonight, as soon as he asked, I knew what I wanted. A burger and fries. Yes, I was in the mood for a burger and fries. Chef being the incredible soul that he is, looked up at the ceiling in what I thought was a rolling of the eyes but turned out to be some contemplation immediately followed by execution. He just turned on his heels and went to the kitchen. A short time later, out came a delicious looking freshly ground sirloin burger on a baguette with an exquisite Dijon mustard, fresh greens, smokey bacon, heirloom tomato (amazing), and cornichons. Off to the side was a small plate of french fries and onion rings that were some of the best I ever had. Finished off with a couple of portions of fresh made ketchup and mayo and off you go the the diner for a burger and fries!

I don't know if chef will be upset with me for mentioning this little tidbit as I am quite confident that diner food is not his first love in cooking, but I must say that it was added to my long list of memorable meals from his wonderful kitchen, albeit for very different reasons.

I wonder what he would do with a request for an "open faced turkey sandwich"? I am kidding of course, as there are a few new items I cannot wait to try, the oxtail for one, sounds amazing, perfect for a fast approaching Fall!

"Expect nothing, be prepared for anything."

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  • 3 weeks later...

For members in Vancouver, Ouest is now offering an all-mushroom tasting menu :laugh:

The website provides the following indicative mushroom tasting menu, which sounds appealing to me:

Lentils du Puy and Quebec Foie Gras with Wild Mushroom a la Grecque

Pine Mushroom Carpaccio with Fresh Duck Ham, Housemade Organic Rasins and Young Greens

Cauliflower Mushroom and Quail Bouillon with Tiny Raviolis, Scented with Truffles

Carmelized Halibut with Yellowfoot Mushrooms, Smoked Bacon Ragu

Island Chanterelle Fricasse with Slow Cooked Bison Short Ribs, Honey Glazed Root Vegetables (I wonder if Island Chanterelles refer to specimens from Vancouver Island? :wink:)

Autumn Setting of Nougat Glace with Fresh Vanilla

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  • 2 weeks later...
While perusing the Ouest website, I noted a "bar menu" featuring dishes generally in the C$9-12 (roughly US$6-8) range.

Below is the May 23, 2002 Ouest Press Release excerpt on the bar menu:

"This weekend also marks the introduction of an independent Bar Menu presenting an interesting choice of 10 savoury items that offer exceptional value and greater accessibility. The bar menu has been designed to appeal to locals encouraging them to drop in for convenient bite after work, as well as being ideally suited to the pre and post theatre goers that frequent the near by Stanley Theatre. Bar Manager Jay Jones, ‘2002 Premier Crew’ award winner as well as recipient of the ‘2001 Classic Bar Tender’ award has an inviting list of new martinis to present to patrons, Jones “serves martinis like nobody’s business” (Vancouver Magazine). And wine enthusiasts can choose from a range of over 20 selections offered by the glass, in addition to over 90 labels listed by the half bottle."

I also recently noticed that Ouest has some sort of an affiliation (?) with Whistler's Araxi, which I have not visited.

http://www.toptable.ca/index.asp

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The affiliation you refer to stretches to a number of restaurants in the area. The Toptable Group has Ouest (South Granville), Cin Cin (Robson Street), Blue Water (Yaletown) and Araxi (Whistler) under their belt.

For those of you unfamiliar with the Vancouver area, the first three restaurants are within a couple of miles of each other while Araxi is a beautiful drive up the Sea to Sky highway to the resort town of Whistler (about 90min).

All the restaurants are worth visiting for different reasons. Ouest has an emphasis on finely crafted meals with luxurious sauces for a refined palate. Cin Cin is an exciting room which is rarely empty and features Italian Mediterranean cuisine. (note: Chef Thierry, the patissiere from Ouest now resides at Cin Cin). Blue Water places their emphasis on fresh seafood and a lively cocktail bar in a newer, funky part of town. Araxi is a restaurant very deserved of it's many accolades. Especially for a very fine wine list, warm decor and excellent dishes in a beautiful location.

"Expect nothing, be prepared for anything."

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Araxi was the highlight of my visit to the Whistler area a year and a half ago. I wish I could recall what I ate - i think there was an appetizer of salmon prepared 3 ways, main course, maybe something like local lamb with huckleberries, and dessert - amazingly, no recall - chocolate, no doubt. Had a cocktail and a glass of excellent wine. I think the tab was around $50 US! It was off season, quiet, a pretty room, excellent service and food preparation.

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You could go back tomorrow and have the same experience, it is that consistent. Wonderful restaurant with an excellent manager at the helm providing a fine example to his staff as to how to treat a customer.

I think I will go tomorrow night for dinner!

"Expect nothing, be prepared for anything."

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Lucky you! To Araxi or one of the Vancouver places? Kind of a long drive from Seattle, though I did do a round trip for Expo back in '86 (?).

Funny post about the hamburger and fries at Ouest. I wasn't lucky enough to have been there - but Matt's in the Market once had this as a special that was talked about for days. They have only two propane burners and an oven to cook on, so you can imagine how difficult that would be!

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The affiliation you refer to stretches to a number of restaurants in the area. The Toptable Group has Ouest (South Granville), Cin Cin (Robson Street), Blue Water (Yaletown) and Araxi (Whistler) under their belt.

Is there an ownership component on the part of Toptable Group of, or financing of, Ouest and the other restaurants? I hear Araxi is a good restaurant, but have never dined there. Araxi has previously won Vancouver Magazine's Gold award for Whistler restaurants.

http://www.vancouvermagazine.com/0004/awar...s_whistler.html

Johnathan -- If you are comfortable discussing it, have you eaten at any other interesting restaurants in Vancouver recently that might be worth mentioning on the board (to the extent not already described)?

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As previously mentioned, Araxi is very deserving of any accolades it officially reeives. It is a wonderful restaurant.

As far as I know, all the restaurants in the Top Table Group are under one owner financially and management wise.

I would be happy to share any input on Vancouver area restaurants. There are very few that I have not dined at and I know a fair amount of fellow foodies and restaurant people to give a fair assumption towards many fine dining establishments here in Vancouver.

Only too happy to share on this site, it is how I gain so much knowledge, understanding, appreciation and tips on where to dine when I travel.

"Expect nothing, be prepared for anything."

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  • 1 month later...

The January 2003 edition of Food & Wine has a one-page short article on "Where to Go Next In Vancouver", by Rhonda May. In the "All-Stars" category, Ouest received the following description:

"Local boy David Hawksworth is Vancouver's best European-trained chef and arguably its best chef, period. He combines a passion for Fresh West coast ingredients with labor intensive French technique."

Interestingly, the other All-Stars are "C" and its affiliate Raincity Grill (C is extremely poor in my mind) and Chartwell. Lumiere is not included :hmmm: Instead, Lumiere Bar is included in the Best New Restaurants list, together with Lucy Mae Brown and Memphis Blues Barbecue. Best Asian goes to Tojo's and Vij's (what about the Chinese restaurants? :hmmm:). Wild Rice is mentioned under no category as a newcomer with a contemporary Chinese cuisine (117 W. Pender, 604-642-2882).

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Lesley -- In reviewing the current "bar and lunch" menu, I noticed a number of breakfast-type items have been added. Arguably the style of the non-breakfast items is somewhat more "bistro"-like and slightly more "comfort-food"-like (as opposed to the more composed dishes on the dinner a la carte and tasting menus). Do you agree?

http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/main....asp?index=menus

Edited by cabrales (log)
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Cabrales:

Ouest has just started opening for what they calling Lunch/Brunch so it shouldn't come as too much of a surprise. It's nice to see some real restaurants open during the day instead of just for dinner. I'm planning on getting in their over the Xmas holidays and looking forward to it.

My last experience at dinner was not great, but it was 2 years ago. I'm looking forward to big things.

It ain't the meat it's the emotion

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  • 4 weeks later...

-----Original Message-----

From: Annabel (Top Table) [mailto:annabel@toptable.ca]

Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 6:08 PM

To: Undisclosed List

Subject: From Ouest to West

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Thursday, January 9th 2003

TRUE TO OUR REGION, TRUE TO THE SEASONS

THE EVOLUTION OF OUEST

Vancouver, BC - On Thursday January 9th, Ouest Restaurant & Bar will re-open it's doors for dinner, after a ten day closure emerging with a new look and a new name, or at least a new version of the old name: Ouest becomes West. 

But why...?  Surely the slew of accolades and favourable publicity garnered since the restaurant's launch two years ago provide affirmation of its success and are enough to satisfy expectations. And 2002 was a great year; April saw the team collect no less than five accolades at the Vancouver magazine awards and a steady stream of international media attention followed. Commendations appeared in Eat magazine, the Washington Times, Bon Appetit, Food Arts and the London Independent. In December, John Mariani's highly influential Virtual Gourmet newsletter sited the restaurant as providing him with one of his best meals of 2002. The only Canadian restaurant to be included in his global round up was praised in the company of calibre establishments such as The Square, London, The Water Grill, LA and Daniel, New York.  Food & Wine magazine, followed up with an excellent report in their January 2003 issue that proclaimed 'Local boy David Hawksworth is Vancouver's best European trained chef and arguably it's best chef period'.

Despite critical acclaim, restaurateur Jack Evrensel has never been one to rest on his laurels. His determination to see the restaurant evolve and reach its full potential, coupled with the ambition to create a true legacy for Vancouver has led to Ouest's reincarnation as West. 'We want to represent our city,' he says 'a city that is becoming recognised for its world class restaurants, for its own cuisine and unique identity'.

The title page of West's new menu states 'True to our Region, True to the Seasons' reflecting the mission to search regionally for the finest yield of land and sea, to cook seasonally and accentuate natural flavours. The new menu has evolved to encompass a wider range dishes designed to cater to individual appetites and preferences, available throughout the room rendering separate bar and dinner menus unnecessary. It manages to conjure simultaneous appeal, whether your desire is simply to sample a quick round of succulent oysters in the dining room, to perch at the bar over a bottle of red and a Coq au Vin, or to languish leisurely over multi course tasting menus.

The core of West's new menu is still the appetizer and entr/e selections; Appetizers show the ever-popular Parfait of Foie Gras & Chicken Livers is a stayer, sitting with new comers such as 'Roasted Scallops with Crisp House Made Bacon & Tomato Jam'.  Main plates roam across the region starring 'Ucluelet Rock Sole, Lightly Poached with Side Stripe Prawns & Butternut Squash Gnocchi' and 'Rosemary Scented Slow Cooked Alberta Lamb Shank, Szechauan Pepper Crusted Pumpkin'. A range of Small Plates (from $8) have been introduced available individually as snacks, 'tapas style' in succession, or as intermediate courses. West's Tasting Menus are for those who want to sit back and surrender their experience to the deft hands of the house. A ten-course and two five-course tasting menus are available, your choice to have with or without wine pairings. 

Established Pastry Chef Rhonda Viani, prepares West's desserts, chocolates, petits fours and breads. Viani joined West late last year from Vancouver Island's Sooke Harbour House. Her impressive resume carries outstanding credentials including two years prior as pastry chef of Lumiere, Vancouver, before a six month stint at Marque Restaurant, Sydney, Australia. At West diners are invited to melt into her lascivious creations such as 'Tangerine White Chocolate Charlotte with Tangerine Sorbet, Cardamon Sauce' or 'Roasted Pineapple with Layered Crepes and Buttermilk Star Anise'. 

The new look West denotes an up-beat atmosphere; bursts of energy and splashes of vibrant colour have entered the room, complementing the existing sleek, modern lines. Large bevelled mirrors capture the ambiance and with the bar divide gone, reflect action and merriment back into the room. A Werner Forster original sculpture is suspended from the ceiling; a study of light and motion. The plush Cassina leather chairs and bar stools are still the softest and most comfortable in town. 

Tim Pittman, Restaurant Director conducts proceedings to match the tempo. His exuberance and enthusiasm fill the room as he leads a friendly and efficient service brigade with practised expertise. Pittman, maitre'd at the restaurant since its inception, is thrilled to have stepped into his new role and is excited about the evolution of West. 'We're giving more to our guests than ever before, you can eat or drink what you want, where you want, when you want.' he says, adding 'Good food and service don't need to be tied up in pomp and ceremony - fine dining can be fun and available to everybody.'

Inspired, contemporary regional cuisine. True to our region, True to the seasons.

West is located at 2881 Granville Street at 13th. Open from Wednesday - Sunday from 11.30am until late and on Monday and Tuesday from 5.30pm. For reservations telephone 604 738 8938 or visit westrestaurant.ca West Restaurant

Edited by giblert (log)
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Giblert: Thanks for posting this press release. I encourage all publicists to post food-related press releases here on eGullet, provided they clearly label them as such and they stick around to answer follow-up questions. I just want to clarify, though, are you Ouest's/West's publicist?

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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So Gilbert I notice little mention of Chef Hawksworth. Other than the quote from F and W. The question on my mind is: When I come there for dinner on the 17th will Chef Hawksworth still be the chef. I only ask this because you seem to have mentioned the pastry chef and the restaurant director but do not mention the Chef in the present term. Is this a thinly vieled hint that Chef Hawksworth is no longer in the restaurants employ?

David Cooper

"I'm no friggin genius". Rob Dibble

http://www.starlinebyirion.com/

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Giblert: Thanks for posting this press release. I encourage all publicists to post food-related press releases here on eGullet, provided they clearly label them as such and they stick around to answer follow-up questions. I just want to clarify, though, are you Ouest's/West's publicist?

Oh no, I have nothing to do with Ouest/West. The press release came across my desk so I figured it was public domain and OK for distribution. Is there an eGullet policy of only posting press releases if you're the official publicist? I don't want to step on toes here ...

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Giblert, I'm not an intellectual property lawyer so I can't answer authoritatively. My guess is that when a publicist sends out a release there's implicit permission to reprint that release in whole or in part in any media outlet. We'd have to ask someone who really knows, though. For now I see no problem with you posting it, unless somebody explains why it is a problem.

I was just asking if you were West's/Ouest's publicist because I didn't want to ask you a bunch of questions based on an incorrect assumption. So I'm glad I asked!

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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While the "West" website does not yet have the indicative revised menus (indication of posting this afternoon), I was able to somehow get this link:

http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=60

(dinner menu)

http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=87

(tasting menu)

http://www.ouestrestaurant.com/ouest/menus.../menu.asp?ID=88

(lunch menu)

Note the very informal nature of some of the items on the lunch menu (e.g., Eggs Benedict, French Onion Soup, Fish and Chips, French Toast, honey roasted turkey breast on foccacia). I have nothing against such dishes. However, they do not require a great deal of culinary talent to prepare adequately. While it's accurate that some informal brunch-type items had previously appeared on Ouest's bar menu, the prevalence of such items on the West lunch menu is noteworthy.

The dinner menu also does not seem to describe dishes in the style that Chef Hawksworth used to label his dishes. For example, "Grilled One Pound Lobster with Rosemary Herb Butter and Golden Pomme Frites". Chef Hawksworth would probably not label his lobster as being "one pound"; if there were a label, it would have been the origination point of the lobster. The "Salad 'West' with choice of vinaigrette" sounds inappropriate for the chef as well. :hmmm:

Edited by cabrales (log)
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It's mystifying to me that someone saw a need to 'redo' the place. What ever happened to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" That color scheme on the web page (please tell me that's not what the interior looks like now!?!) has got to go. The new menu does lead me to believe that there won't be any substantive change in the food, which is a relief. Is Lumiere going to change their name to 'Light' also? :hmmm:

Most women don't seem to know how much flour to use so it gets so thick you have to chop it off the plate with a knife and it tastes like wallpaper paste....Just why cream sauce is bitched up so often is an all-time mytery to me, because it's so easy to make and can be used as the basis for such a variety of really delicious food.

- Victor Bergeron, Trader Vic's Book of Food & Drink, 1946

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So are we to conclude that Hawksworth is no longer at the restaurant? I doubt that any of us that post here care all that much about the Werner Foster pickle dish hanging from the cieling or Fine Corinthian leather in the Crysler Cordoba. Why have they changed? Is Chef Hawksworth still the man? Has Ricardo Montalban resurfaced as the new manager? Who can answer these questions? If not you Gilbert than who?

David Cooper

"I'm no friggin genius". Rob Dibble

http://www.starlinebyirion.com/

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This doesn't look good. The Web site is terrible with the pointless opening animation that you CAN'T SKIP, errors on several pages, Nothing about the chef, and no photos. The name change makes no sense (can you say "equity"?) and seems to point to a general "dumbing down" along with with the new menu, which - as Cabrales pointed out - doesn't look nearly as interesting as it used to. Why do they play up the pastry chef so much in the PR when the true star (up until now) in the kitchen is certainly Hawksworth? But you'd think that if he was gone they wouldn't even mention his name, and instead play up the new chef. What gives here?

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