Catalonia Restaurants

[nhconner]

Thanks all. I appreciate the advice.

I have a taxi question. Will I be able to get a taxi to Girona for a late dinner and back if I stay in Roses? Can I get a taxi and back from Mas Pau to El Bulli at 1-3am? I only ask because I am unfamiliar with the region and would only try this going from the lower east side to the upper west at this hour, and were talking towns not neighborhoods. Also what is the fare from Figueres to El Bulli?

Thanks,

Nate

Edited January 12, 2006 by nhconner (log)

[Silly Disciple]

Thanks all.  I appreciate the advice. 

I have a taxi question. Will I be able to get a taxi to Girona for a late dinner and back if I stay in Roses?  Can I get a taxi and back from Mas Pau to El Bulli at 1-3am?  I only ask because I am unfamiliar with the region and would only try this going from the lower east side to the upper west at this hour, and were talking towns not neighborhoods.  Also what is the fare from Figueres to El Bulli?

Thanks,

Nate

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I'm sure you can get a taxi from Mas Pau to either Cala Montjoi or Girona, just ask them to arrange it for you in advance.

[Louisa Chu]

Take taxis on your dining nights. The local drivers are well aware of the hours of the destination restaurants. If you find a driver you especially like, ask for his card to call him directly.

If you were to ask the staff at El Bulli where you should stay, Mas Pauwould be one of the few hotels they'd recommend. They're considered part of the extended family. They're so close that when El Bulli closes for the season, their extra goods go to Mas Pau.

You can only reserve at Rafa's as early as the day before - by phone or in person. He will only open if he has same-day fresh fish - but the dish to really get is his fleeting fideua.

Rafa's

Sant Sebastia, 56

972 254 003

[Judith Gebhart]

I can't speak to Mas Pau, but the Almadraba Park Hotel in Roses made an excellent base of operations for us last September. Don't worry about making reservations at Rafa's well in advance, because it will all depend on the catch he has available anyway.

Delta has a direct flight from NY that isn't too bad. Your best bet if you don't wish to stay stationary is to rent a car. There is plenty to see, do and eat in the region. If you haven't already done so I would suggest a perusal of this forum for a lot of excellent advice on dining and staying in Catalunya.

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I echo docsonz choice. We have been Almadraba regulars for years. The hotel is perched to view the drive to and from El Bulli. It is a delightful Roses location. The owners are well versed in the needs of the El Bulli diner. They offer an excellent hotel and dining fare for the day after. Do consider it for your Roses hotel when dining at El Bulli. Judith Gebhart

[Bux]

We have stayed at a couple of different places across from the beach in Roses and neighboring Santa Margarida. There's been little to recommend either of the two places, although for me, close to the center of town is actually advantageous in that we can walk to Rafa's and SnackMar/Las Golondrinas, across the street. I also like the gritty urbanity of downtown beach resorts, but I won't claim downtown Rosas really has any charm.

Checking in and out is certainly stressful and I wouldn't encourage anyone to travel that way. Nevertheless, it's a habit with us and one we've learned to cope with in spite of our efforts to cut down on the number of one night stands. Admittedly the only thing worse for me than checking in and out, is traveling a road twice. Once to get to a restaurant and once to get back. Girona is also a town that is well worth seeing by day. Even in the rain, we found a second visit rewarding. I can recommend the hotel Ciutat de Girona - http://www.hotel-ciutatdegirona.com The one drawback is that it's almost unapproachable by car. After several trips around the block (actually a very complex series of blocks) we finally found the right street to enter, but couldn't find the unmarked intercom to call the hotel and have them lower the barrier. It was frustrating at the time, but we enjoyed our stay and dinner at Can Roca was the sort of meal that would have compensated for far more frustration. The Carlemany is easier to find and has more convenient parking facilities, but I found the staff less charming.

From downtown Rosas, I have driven to and from elBulli and been driven by friends. In the future I will probably take a taxi. Second best would be to drive myself as it's easier to limit my alcoholic intake than that of my friends.

We were able to sort of make a reservation at Rafa's about a week in advance. I say sort of, as we were requested to call back the night before to check if they'd have fish and be open.

[Corinna Dunne]

Has anyone been to Rafa's for dinner and what time does it open at in the evening?

[docsconz]

Corinna, I have been for dinner. Unfortunately I cannot tell you the precise opening time, although we were there about 9 or 9:30PM if I remember correctly.

[mukki]

I haven't been to the area yet, but for our May trip to El Bulli, I've planned on staying at Cala Montjoi, which has been mentioned here. What appealed to me was the fact that we could walk along the beach to and from El Bulli. The rate I was given is 100 euros a night.

I've explored whether we should take the bus from Barcelona to Roses (which I believe Louisa recommended) or rent a car and the latter option seems to be winning so far. The buses back to Barcelona are either early morning (ugh) or late afternoon and we're planning on flying out of Barcelona to Sevilla that same day. A car leaves more room for flexibility.

Hilary

[butterfly]

I think it is worth renting a car. You'll probably spend less than you would on taxis and you'll have more freedom. It's an easy drive from Barcelona (but do get a map and directions before you leave the airport, there's one tricky turn on the way out of the airport that you won't want to miss). We have always gotten good deals from http://www.easycar.com

[Corinna Dunne]

Corinna, I have been for dinner. Unfortunately I cannot tell you the precise opening time, although we were there about 9 or 9:30PM if I remember correctly.

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Thanks Doc... somehow I missed your reply until now. What was the atmosphere like in the evening? When we were there (for lunch), my husband noticed some interesting looking whiskies and a humidor. This, combined with the wonderful fish, has the potential to put Rafa's ahead of any restaurant in his book!!! As I managed to pick up a cancellation for el Bulli in April (I know, I can't believe it!), we're going to stay in Roses for a week and use it as a base.

[Champagne Sadie]

It's also worth considering rail travel in this area of Spain. Very efficient and cheap. Barca to Girona on the Catalunya Express was about 6 Euros last fall.

The line traveling along the coast is very good and scenic too. (Great for Sant Pau and Hispania).

[docsconz]

Corinna, I have been for dinner. Unfortunately I cannot tell you the precise opening time, although we were there about 9 or 9:30PM if I remember correctly.

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Thanks Doc... somehow I missed your reply until now. What was the atmosphere like in the evening? When we were there (for lunch), my husband noticed some interesting looking whiskies and a humidor. This, combined with the wonderful fish, has the potential to put Rafa's ahead of any restaurant in his book!!! As I managed to pick up a cancellation for el Bulli in April (I know, I can't believe it!), we're going to stay in Roses for a week and use it as a base.

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Corinna, the evening atmosphere was lovely. The temperature was quite comfortable as we ate outside. The experience was thotoughly enjoyable. Congratulations on the reservation for El Bulli. I will look forward to reports from both places.

[nhconner]

I must ask one more favor or preference I should say before our eating trip in a few weeks. One night left undecided, Cinc, or Hisop? We are dining at Abac, Rafas, El Bulli, Can Roca, and have a few other days/nights packed with tapas and traditonal hopping(egullet recs), but one last night in Barcelona is left undecided. I am torn. What would be the great meal before we leave the next morning?

Thanks,

Nate

[pedro]

If you have a car, do yourself a favor and go to Hispania.

[nathanm]

I'm eating at El Bulli in a couple weeks, and have some other meals to fill in. I have done this a couple times in the past, but I want to check on the latest / greatest.

I would like to stay on the theme of high tech / cutting edge / modernist cuisine.

A friend suggested the following places.

DROLMA IN HOTEL MAJESTIC - BARCELONA

HISPANIA – ARENYS DE MAR

SANT PAU – SAN POL DE MAR

L’ESGUARD – SANT ANDREU DE LLAVANERES

LA GAMBA – PALAMOS

EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA – GIRONA

SA PUNTA – PALS

EL ROSER – L’ESCALA

Some of the suggestions above are more traditional food.

However there are lots of other places in the area. There is lots of information in this forum, but it is hard a good sense of priority. I probably can only pick 2 or 3 places.

I have been to Can Roca before, and it was great.

L'Esguard seems to be controversal - some people love it, some hate it.

[docsconz]

Love it or hate it, L'Esguard is unique and worth the experience IMO. I would also suggest venturing a trip a little further south to Valencia and Ca Sento and of all my wonderful meals in Spain second only to elBulli. It is not necessarily the most cutting edge, but it is extraordinary. While I haven't been to all of the restaurants on your list, the ones I have been to are all worthy. They include Hispania, Sant Pau, L'Esguard and El Celler de Can Roca. Conspicuous by their absence from your list are Abac, Alkimia, Cinc Sentits, El Raco de Can Fabes and Hisop all of which are also worthy of consideration.

Of all the places though, I would love to read your opinion of L'Esguard.

Enjoy!

FWIW, as much as I love the Vanguardist approach ad cuisine, it was my impression that the pendulum (at least in Northeastern Spain) is swinging back to a more ingredient driven, more evidently tradition-based cuisine than has been the case in recent years. It is not that the Vanguardist movement is giving up on exploration, innovation and creativity. It is that they seem to be rediscovering the primacy of their local ingredients and traditions and playing to them with the techniques given more supporting rather than starring roles.

[molto e]

If you can slip down to I El Poblet then it should be considered...and while in Barcelona then Espai Sucre for a dessert tasting.

Edited August 26, 2007 by molto e (log)

[nathanm]

Alas, I don't think that I will get farther south than Taragona, and possibly not farther south than Barcelona. Thanks for the recommendations however - maybe on a future trip.

I will definitely try to make it to Espai Sucre.

I will also be in the Balearic islands - Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza for several days - is there any place special there?

[pedro]

Sa Punta is definitely not modern cuisine, Nathan, I know it quite well since I've stayed there a number of times.

Miramar at Llança tends to be overlooked since it's farm from Barcelona and even Girona, almost in the border with France. It's basically a seafood place which uses some modern techniques.

When was your last visit to Can Roca? Lately they've been doing interesting things using low temperature distillation. The oyster with distilled earth is perhaps its most well-known example.

L'Esguard dishes are stunning from a visual perspective but almost every dish is about some degree of gelling.

[Silly Disciple]

Alkimia and Comerç 24 are two modern Catalan missing from your list. Also, as Doc points out, Hisop would fall in this category.

Jordi Cruz at Estany Clar In Cercs, near Berga, is doing some interesting things, but I haven't been there so can't comment on whether it's worth visiting.

Not terribly modern but worth visiting is Can Jubany in Calldetenes, near Vic.

Can Roca is definitely worth the visit.

Edited August 26, 2007 by Silly Disciple (log)

[nathanm]

Alkimia and Comerç 24 are two modern Catalan missing from your list. Also, as Doc points out, Hisop would fall in this category.

Jordi Cruz at Estany Clar In Cercs, near Berga, is doing some interesting things, but I haven't been there so can't comment on whether it's worth visiting.

Not terribly modern but worth visiting is Can Jubany in Calldetenes, near Vic.

Can Roca is definitely worth the visit.

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OK, so priority wise, if I only have one major meal in Barcelona, which should it be?

When is your stall in Boqueria open? I will try to stop by...

[nathanm]

When was your last visit to Can Roca? Lately they've been doing interesting things using low temperature distillation. The oyster with distilled earth is perhaps its most well-known example.

L'Esguard dishes are stunning from a visual perspective but almost every dish is about some degree of gelling.

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I was at Can Roca two years ago, and I had the oyster.

One thing I am curious about with L'Esguard is that I have ordered Micri, his supposedly miracle ingredient. In my hands at least, it was horrible - like a jar of wallpaper paste! Perhaps the jar I had was old or suffered in shipping. Or maybe I did something wrong, but I tried variations for weeks and eventually despaired of the stuff. I find the hydrocolloid gels more useful.

So it would be very interesting to me to see it in the hands of the master. Maybe he does a great job with it.

[docsconz]

When was your last visit to Can Roca? Lately they've been doing interesting things using low temperature distillation. The oyster with distilled earth is perhaps its most well-known example.

L'Esguard dishes are stunning from a visual perspective but almost every dish is about some degree of gelling.

←

I was at Can Roca two years ago, and I had the oyster.

One thing I am curious about with L'Esguard is that I have ordered Micri, his supposedly miracle ingredient. In my hands at least, it was horrible - like a jar of wallpaper paste! Perhaps the jar I had was old or suffered in shipping. Or maybe I did something wrong, but I tried variations for weeks and eventually despaired of the stuff. I find the hydrocolloid gels more useful.

So it would be very interesting to me to see it in the hands of the master. Maybe he does a great job with it.

←

He does. All the more reason to check it out for yourself.

[pedro]

That Sánchez Romera, whom evidently has talent in large quantities, is still stuck with micri at this stage of the game is sad to me. Micri as a gelling agent was superseeded years ago, yet Sánchez Romera insists on featuring it in almost every single dish --in different degrees of gel--, from the amuses to the petit fours.

[Silly Disciple]

Alkimia and Comerç 24 are two modern Catalan missing from your list. Also, as Doc points out, Hisop would fall in this category.

Jordi Cruz at Estany Clar In Cercs, near Berga, is doing some interesting things, but I haven't been there so can't comment on whether it's worth visiting.

Not terribly modern but worth visiting is Can Jubany in Calldetenes, near Vic.

Can Roca is definitely worth the visit.

←

OK, so priority wise, if I only have one major meal in Barcelona, which should it be?

When is your stall in Boqueria open? I will try to stop by...

←

In Barcelona proper I would opt for Abac, although it's not precisely modern/hi-tech. If this is a requirement then I would go for Alkimia, although I'm not a big fan of it.

If you are interested in product, then you should not miss Hispania (35km. from Barcelona) or Can Jubany (about 70km).

For what is worth, I shared a meal with a group of people at L'Esguard, one of which was good friends with Romera, and none of us found the meal to be good at all. At one point my wife said "enough with the jelly" and stopped eating.

As you point out, Micri was a great invention, which has been now superseded by other products.

I understand that some people swear by this place, but I'd much rather spend my time and money at Can Roca. If you've had some of their dishes already, and you don't want to repeat, I would mention it to Pitu and I'm sure they will accommodate you.

Re: the Boqueria, we are open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 4pm. I'm usually there from noon onwards, but please do let me know if you decide to stop by earlier.